CRT suggestions for vertical cab rgb mod

[MiteWiseacre]

So I hit a wall trying to get my little 20” diamond (Mitsubishi??) to run RGB.
There’s a Toshiba 27a43c I can grab, any thoughts on this? I have a larger one of these and the picture is pretty nice. Not a bunch of info on modding these not reviews. Too large for what I want to do? I presume it can do the resolutions I need.
Should I keep waiting to find a curved Trinitron?

[buttersoft]

Errr, you haven't really said what you're trying to work with when it comes to a cab. A 27" tube is not going to fit into the same mountings as a 20" one did.

Was the 20" mitsubishi a TV, or a PC monitor? IF it was a TV, did you have a look for the same model of set and/or jungle chip on the Shmups RGB-modding thread? Or just ask for advice on there? Same goes for the Toshiba, of course.
https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56155

Any old CRT TV from the 90's will be 15kHz, and will handle most of the resolutions needed for MAME. Personally i wouldn't go for a trinitron as i don't think they look quite right, only being curved in one direction.

[MiteWiseacre]

Yah been doing my research on the SHMUPS forum, the 20” is a tv and this is all in prep for a build, do no cab built yet. I did grab the Trinitron and got a mod to work yay! Looks pretty nice, once I get it all cleaned up and sorted I’ll post the solution here. This TV is a 2002, not as curvy as a 90s model but nice geometry and colour. My goal here is to build a Contra like cab, did those have a 25” screen? Can’t find proper details, but this will turn out much larger than stock now with this screen anyway!

[MiteWiseacre]

So here’s how I modded my Toshiba 27a43
Micon: OEC7074A
Jungle: TB1253AN
Found service manual here:
https://elektrotanya.com/toshiba_27a43c.pdf/download.html#dl

When you’re pulling the main board out of this set it can kinda seem fused in there, I ended up using a long Philips driver to undo the back of the buttons just to free everything up, there’s really only a clip in the centre and once you get it apart it pops in and out nicely. Was baffled for a bit.

I pulled a female vga socket out of a dead monitor and wired to the pins 1-R, 2-G, 3-B, 10-Ground (soldered a lead right across #6-10 maybe unnecessarily), 13-H, 14-V sync.
I used the components I had around instead of following the RGB Mux guide from the SHMUPS guys.
  VGA Red -> 75R (terminated to ground ) -> 75R -> 1uF cap -> W127 (same circuit for R,G&B)
W127 is a jumper that runs in the path between pin 34 on the Micom and pin 20 on the jungle (OSD red input)
W125 is green
W124 is blue
Pulled 5v from the RF input tuner. BPL goes to a cap C002, where I soldered onto the tuner side leg, ran to the blanking pin#19 on the jungle, the nearby R615 was a nice spot to tap in.
I combined my H&V sync  -> 75R terminated to ground -> composite #1 Y input. (Tried Luma on svideo with no luck)
Put it all on a switch. The osd is sort of useable, just very faint unless I hit the switch and turn off blanking, would probably be easier to read if I had followed the mux instructions properly.
Works very well, offset to the right is all but I’m researching that problem still.
Now to work on a frame and vertical mounting...