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Author Topic: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.  (Read 8787 times)

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Drnick

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Re: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.
« Reply #40 on: July 06, 2018, 04:02:15 am »
Dang it, lost post as tried to attach invalid file format.  Lets try this again. 

I didn't get the fence done because uncovered a ground wasp nest, chemical warfare has begun and hopefully extermination will be complete this weekend, If not then falling back to Fire (Although this will be a last resort as will be a little bit dangerous).

I have created a proper cut sheet (Accurate to within 5/100's inch) which I need to replicate into Freecad, I then need to learn how to use Freecad to build this thing virtually.  I am sure that I have to adjust the sizing on some things, Others I have left slightly over sized as unsure exact sizing needed.   Creating this virtually first should eliminate these problems.

I also took some time to create  a custom coin insert, I plan on getting some tokens for this machine so noted tokens only.

And now the cut lists and insert :)


Mike A

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Re: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.
« Reply #41 on: July 06, 2018, 04:41:24 am »
Ground wasps? Pour some kerosene down the hole at night and light it up.

Drnick

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Re: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.
« Reply #42 on: July 06, 2018, 08:49:41 am »
Ground wasps? Pour some kerosene down the hole at night and light it up.

If chemical warfare hasn't completed the job, that is the plan.  The issue is there is a lot of dry tinder under the hedge (6" deep dead twigs/leaves etc) where they are, that could easily catch and then the hedge would go up, then I have a problem on my hands. So as mentioned previously fire is definitely the last resort and will involve a few buddies and 3 water hoses setup and ready to go.  (I know petrol floats on water but it will put out the burning leaves)

Drnick

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Re: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.
« Reply #43 on: July 19, 2018, 04:24:16 am »
Well the chemical warfare seems to be failing,  its killing hundreds but many more survive  :hissy: :hissy: Fire will progress this weekend.  On a brighter note I have finished with the shed and have catalogued all my tools,  damn I have a lot of tools :) Anyway wood has been ordered and will be with me beginning of next week.  So in the meantime I have been re-learning Sketchup,  haven't used it since I started design of the jukebox topper about 5 years ago or more.  The results of this are shown below,  I now have the fun task of breaking the 3d back down into 2d and creating a new cutlist,  I was right about some of the angles for the cuts too, The table saw is sure going to come in handy :)


Mike A

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Re: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.
« Reply #44 on: July 19, 2018, 06:01:56 am »
I told you to use fire.

Drnick

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Re: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.
« Reply #45 on: October 17, 2019, 05:46:20 pm »
I told you to use fire.
I did use fire the next time I came across wasps,

Well as there isn't anything in the way of build progress on this I thought I would start on the software and art. I'm planning on adding working credit counters into the design as briefly discussed here
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161220.0.html
The items there would be ideal candidates except it looks like all sorts of fun getting anything posted to the UK from Malaysia :( I'll find someone local who does electronics and get them to build something similar for me. I would do it myself but there is no way I can solder :)

I mentioned in that thread about setting up the active marquee to replicate the look of the 6 slot marquee.  Unfortunately unless I go for a 4K screen as the marquee I don't think I can pull that off.  I can though get away with replicating the 4 slot.

The idea will be that as you go through the games the display changes to show the next games in the list, A bit like a massive 196 multi slot :) I figure this is going to take some time, but I think I figured a way of only not having to do all 196 or so,  quick mockup Examples below, as you can see Games 1 through 3 use the same image just the light to show which game is active moves Ideally I want to know what the next and previous games are at all times.  There will undoubtedly be a fairly simple method I'm sure.  At the moment I have this,



Game 4 has new image created although everything should be one place to the left.


It then goes on something like as follows,
AM2,ANDRO (lit), AOF, AOF2
ANDRO, AOF(lit),AOF2,AOF3
ANDRO, AOF, AOF2 (lit),AOF3
AOF2,AOF3,(lit)BaseBall Stars, BBS 2
AOF2,AOF3,BaseBall Stars(lit), BBS 2
BBS, BBS2(lit),Battleflip,Blazing star,
BBS, BBS2,Battleflip(lit),Blazing star,
Battleflip,Blazing Star(lit),Blues Journey, Bomberman
Battleflip,Blazing Star,Blues Journey(lit), Bomberman

And so on and so forth  I see a spreadsheet coming up in my future to work out minimum amount of work needed :)

Actually I don't need the spreadsheet, I just use 1 image for every 2 games The lights should only be over the middle 2. At least I've figured out I can cut the work in half now  :laugh2:

 





 

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Re: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.
« Reply #46 on: June 02, 2020, 07:17:36 pm »
Well not a record by any means, But it has been a year since I did anything with this.  Having been stuck indoors for the past 10 weeks or so I've redecorated the bedroom and hung the TV on the wall :) This meant that I had a free TV Stand to find a home for.  So I decided to put the sofa from the shed into the Bedroom, and took the tv stand to the shed installed the TV onto the stand in portrait mode and setup a PC so I can start doing the software.

I have also placed an order with Ultimarc for the following.

1 x Ipac Ultimate I/O
2 x Servostiks Red Bat top
1 x Servostik controller
4 x Plain white standard pushbuttons
14 x Goldleaf RGB Buttons
14 x Black Caps for Goldleaf RGB Buttons
2 x Mounting kits for under mounting
Various Extensions and Daisy chain ground cables

Total cost just shy of 290  :o :o :o

I already have cable, crimp and various molex connections. 

So plan of action, Double check all the sketchup plans, get a copy of control panel art printed and build a test control panel. 

Here's hoping it doesn't take me another year before my next update :)

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Re: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.
« Reply #47 on: June 10, 2020, 02:49:51 pm »
OK have rough cut parts to make temporary control panel, Unfortunately weather has turned to rain for the week so can't finish that yet, (I don't think wife will allow use of table saw in house).

In the meantime I have got a friend of mine to print out a couple of coin mechs for me,  These are no issue.  But of course because I had no coin mechs I also have no switches, 

Had a look online and only UK stock I could see for what I know I need and they want about 17 quid each,  No way am I going to pay that. 

Have looked for long lever microswitch, needle microswitch, coin drop microswitch.   

Coin door is 2 slot version of the one in this video



Any assistance with what I need to order in the UK would be wonderful. Or ideas on what I can do to put in a ghetto coin switch. 

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Re: Slim MVS4 with active Marquee.
« Reply #48 on: June 21, 2020, 06:33:57 pm »
Well weather was good for a few days,  So cut an old mdf shelf down to size to create a temporary control panel box for the software Setup.  It would have been nice if it was possible to have cut the shelf down so was the same size as the end cabinet will be, but alas, just not quite enough material.  Never mind, 23" wide by 12" Deep the box shall be :)  8 Degree slope.  I think everyone knows how to build a box so haven't covered building that here,  :laugh2: :laugh2:

Hit the box up with 2 coats of auto primer, quick sand down with some 200 sandpaper and then 2 coats of matt black. Control panel got 2 thick coats of MDF Primer on top ready for artwork.

I took my original art and scaled it to the size of the test control panel, replaced the button markings with a slightly different layout, which works nicely as has a semi curved layout when using buttons 1,2,6 and 7

 567
 234
1

Printed the resized art out as poster PDF on A3 paper then carefully stuck together and stuck it to the control panel,  cut holes out for buttons,  My choices for drill were a 26mm forstner or 30mm forstner  I went with the 26, really need 27.5 :) Used a router to increase size of holes, I have now ordered 27 and 28mm auger/spade bits.   I could really do with a drill press though.  Holes ended up OK, all buttons fit, nothing totally out of whack yet. 

I found a local printing company that could do a metre square print on door vinyl, I figured for 21 it was worth sending them some artwork :)   Sent the artwork as used for test panel along with 2 versions of normal sized art to be used as templates for actual machine, only difference between those is the spacing of buttons,  Whichever layout I like the best will then be used to get Laminated vinyl print,  quoted 25 for a 25x11 matt laminate control panel seems like a fairly good price.  I also have the same printer doing laser cut Logo's for the sides.

Anyway Door vinyl arrives,  all good,  Cut out the bit I want to use and spend 15 minutes lining up the vinyl, go to get tape to stick down one edge , ask wife to hold in place, say do not move it. Get tape come back. Did you move it? I asked, "No" was the answer. Good, tape down, peel other end, start laying down get about 1/3rd way across and I look at it and go that's not straight,  attempt to pull back up,  well that's not going to happen. Looks like with a dry install of this stuff you get one chance.  Oh well, Its not going to line up then, luckily it's just a temp box, I'll live with the results :)    Cover rest of box with spare Vinyl from Entertainment Centre Build.  I found about 7 Foot of black and about 7 Ft of Yellow Tmolding, I ran the black around the base and then decided to add Yellow over side panels.   Really wish I had decided to have Tmold on sides originally though as then could have cut the slot before installing panel.  End result looks like so.



The one unfortunate thing about the servosticks is the shaft length. Definitely designed for metal panels. Even after routing out the maximum I could on back of panel without then risking blowing the mounts through the artwork it just looks like  the shaft is not long enough (Oooh Eer Missus).  Guess I'll want to do the real thing in Metal, or go with one of the fancier methods for undermounting :)   



So then it was an afternoon of cabling, And boy oh boy am I beginning to rethink this whole RGB malarky,  Way too many wires under here,  I am though getting better with the fitting of cables into Dupont pins and then getting those into the headers correctly :) I was worried that I would need about another 1000 pins the way I was chewing them up at the beginning. I have found bending the end wings in a touch made it work so much better. Also ensuring I put the pin in to the right side of the crimper helps,  took me a bit to see that one side was actually deeper than the other on the ratchet die :)  (I've only ever used BNC and rj11/45 crimps before now).   For the test panel I am just running the cable into a bit of cable tidy tubing I had laying around,  It's not perfect but its easy to work with.    Final panel will have all cables ran to exact length using Male/Female SM JST connectors. I am not looking forward to installing all those.



Still to do on test panel,  Finish extending Player 1 Joystick wires,  Drill Start/Select/Exit Buttons (Waiting on New Drill Bits for this). Put some clamp mounts in for the tubing and wire up a 12V power brick for the Leds/Ultimate IO.

For now I will be installing a Micro Form Factor Dell Optiplex 3040 into the Box, I'm putting a faceplate on back to allow HDMI/Display port wires to exit box and for power to enter box.  I did look for a HD panel that included USB/DP/HDMI/Audio etc but ultimately decided why spend the money, I won't use it in the full size machine :)

As for the Microswitches,  I found some for 3 each as need new wire installing, shouldn't be an issue, (Piano wire should work)  Unfortunately they've been shipped to lord only knows where, supplier says will post more tomorrow, but doesn't have them on his page anymore, so not sure on that.   :banghead: :banghead:

So until next time, Be safe, Be Kind,