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Author Topic: J-Pac vs. USB Zero Delay Encoders  (Read 1395 times)

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porkins

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J-Pac vs. USB Zero Delay Encoders
« on: September 04, 2018, 12:34:35 pm »
I have a JAMMA cab with an older J-Pac in it. It has the 2 x PS/2 ports on it. I made a cable to run the Kbd/USB PS/2 port to the USB on my PC that runs WinIPac and MAME. It all works well enough.

However, I feel as if the controls are not as responsive as they should be. In SF2, pulling off dragon punches is near impossible.

I have a custom-built arcade stick box (cheap joystick and buttons) that I wired up with a Zero Delay USB encoder and plugged that into a Pi3 with RetroPie. Using that, I can pull of dragon punches in SF2 much easier.

Is it worth my time to rewire my cab to use the Zero Delays? I would also have to configure the new joysticks in Windows, my front-end, and MAME a bit.

Malenko

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Re: J-Pac vs. USB Zero Delay Encoders
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2018, 12:49:12 pm »
I'd start with swapping the sticks, even if it means running the wiring in the cab to your arcade stick box with just the directions and a punch button.

Its more likely the stick than it is the JPAC
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lilshawn

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Re: J-Pac vs. USB Zero Delay Encoders
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2018, 12:52:41 pm »
sounds more like a joystick switch issue.

in order to do the move, the computer has to register stick forward and a slide to down (which is forward switch...forward switch and down switch...down switch), then a slide to forward (down switch.... down switch and forward switch... forward switch)

I think your switches (and or restrictor) might be not allowing a proper diagonal of both switches.

porkins

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Re: J-Pac vs. USB Zero Delay Encoders
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2018, 12:55:25 pm »
Hadoukens work fine. Could be the joysticks are super fiddly trying to maneuver from forward to down. Wish I could test without all the re-wiring.

Malenko

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Re: J-Pac vs. USB Zero Delay Encoders
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2018, 01:48:10 pm »
just pull the joystick out of your "fight stick" and plop it in your cab. shouldn't take but a minute to test.



Alternatively, just look at the bottom of the cab's joystick when you hit a diagonal , see how much of the actuator is hitting the switches.
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