MK2 and UMK3 supergun custom control panels with speakers

[tcleary]

Oh man it has been a while.  I have some various arcade projects I did in the past and now I’m on to another one because I thought it would be fun.  I didn’t document all my other stuff, but I have a 4p mame cab, a mk cab running mk9, a jrok defender, a vertical mame, a Nintendo cab with a nes in it and a jamma candy cab,  also a 30 console to 3 pvm setup and other crap I won’t mention.  Anyway new project!

The idea was supergun MK but the problem with that is first mk runs at 53hz.  So properly syncing it can be a problem.  I have an Olympus oev203 that syncs it fine and has 2 rgb inputs so I can tailor one for MK.  First hurdle down.  Next the controls.  I have one of those fightsticks that was released with mk9 but it just does not do it for me.  I want something larger.  When you play a mk cab there is more wrist space and it just feels better.  So I mocked up what my bigger ideal panel would be.  In the meantime I played with a mk arcade panel and discovered that sucks for 2 reasons.  First it is way to high.  If you put that thing on a desk it is high as hell.  Maybe ok for playing standing up but I wanted something for playing sitting down.  2nd I realized something was missing.  When you play a mk arcade cab you feel the punches and kicks and blocks.  The sound is great.  That was completely missing.

Solution:

Speakers in the control panels.  At this point I didn’t know how this will turn out but I will let you all know.  I’m sure you are on the edge of your seats in anticipation of my stupid project idea.  Here is what I’m planning

2 24” by 20” panels.  Each with the mk layout and two speakers built in.  Kinter amp driving the speakers.  Supergun umk3 and mk2 in a big pc case.  Running controls and rca audio to the panels and rgb out to a pvm.  I’m using some kit artwork and reproduction artwork and planing on making the panels fairly close to mk originals with lexan tops. 

I’ll document this ridiculous project as I go.  So far I have the plans, a lot of the parts, umk3 and mk2 boards, the supergun board.  Waiting on the pc case and some parts. 

Maybe this nonsense comes to fruition. 

[rave0035]

Ever considered something like this? (likely overkill) 



https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-bst-1-high-power-pro-tactile-bass-shaker-50-watts--295-244

...or this? (more subtle)


https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-tt25-8-puck-tactile-transducer-mini-bass-shaker-8-ohm--300-386

These are purpose-made for what you're trying to do - adding rumble and tactile bass response to surfaces.  A few things to keep in mind:
- depending on what you get, a small kinter amp may not supply enough juice to get these things moving.  Many of these use class D 'sub' amps that have built-in crossovers.  You could fit one into a CP.
- each of these respond best to a very specific frequency band (typically in the 5-100hz zone), so you won't get anything from the midrange sounds in games.

Seems like a better solution?
Mike

[tcleary]

I like the idea.  I will see how the speakers sound and I could always add something like this.  (Edit, bought two of the small ones and the surface mounting kits). I think the amp I’m getting could probably drive the small one and the speakers I already bought.  I should have the the pc case today.  My plan is to empty it and mount a board in the center.  Then mount mk2 to one side and umk3 to the other side.  The case has two easy open doors so it will be easy to work with either side.  Getting everything mounted in the case is my focus for the short term since I already have a control panel to test with.  Here is most of the stuff that will be mounted in the case

Mk2 pcb
Mk2 sound board
Umk3 pcb
Cga to vga converter
Mk kick harness condenser board
Rj45 breakout boards (planning on running controls through Ethernet cables, maybe not the best way but I suspect it will be fine and I like having cables that are easy to replace)
Jamma 2 way switcher board
Maybe ossc upscaler since I don’t use it for anything to give me hdmi output

I found pre cut pci brackets that should be simple to use to mount my outputs and give it a clean look.  I ordered a mk decal for the clear pc case window.  So hopefully the pc case part of this project starts to come together this week. 

[tcleary]

I’m sold on the mini bass shaker idea.  Ordered a total of 4 of the small ones.  I have a few extra small kinter amps which should be enough.  That 50 watt shaker would probably be ridiculous.  I suspect 2 of the smaller ones will be a good balance.  I have room on either side of the controls to mount them.  So I’ll hace 2 amps in each panel so I can dial in volume and bass for the speakers and for these things.  Maybe one amp would be sufficient to drive everything but I’m assuming I will appreciate the extra degree of control I will get out of two amps.  They are pretty cheap so not a big deal. 

[rave0035]

Nice!

I have limited experience with these but I think they can be amp(erage) hogs, so you may need more juice than the Kinters can provide.  See how it works and assess.

If you end up needing more 'oomph', check out some of this modular boards:

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/audio-amplifier-boards-modules/3464

Mike

[tcleary]

I think it will be ok, the level of shake I want will be subtle.  If it shakes like hell it will be hard to play it for long.  It should be interesting to experiment with and find a good level.  I do really like the idea though.  It reminds me of my digital piano.  I can run it to a PA, but it just feels better when I have the speakers up on the piano itself.  It feels strange playing it without that feedback, if that makes any sense.  Maybe why I like acoustic guitar over electric most of the time too.  I’m not sure how this will work out but I’m excited to experiment and see what happens.  I think it will be awesome though. 

As for progress,  I got my pc case and have been taking it apart.  I almost have the motherboard tray out then I need to get the 5 1/4 inch bay cage out, which looks like a pain.  Once that is gone I’m planning on mounting a board in the center of the case, then mk2 pcb goes on one side and umk3 on the other. 

[tcleary]

Pcbs mounted.  I found some metal sheeting with holes at Home Depot.  Mounted with some brackets.  Umk3 side has a supergun board and a 2 way jamma board and a mk kick harness board.  Mk2 side has mk2 and the sound board.  Next to wire up audio, controls, and video out.  I’m using a modular power supply that runs to the supergun and the 3 case fans.  It was a pretty tight fit.  I lucked out a bit.  I thought this case would easily get it done but it actually turned out to be the perfect size.

[tcleary]

Some progress.  Mk2 and umk3 are now working and switchable.  I had some fun with buttons not working or getting triggered when they shouldn’t be.  Issues were bad crimps on some cables I made and I stacked a pcb on the jamma switcher which was somehow making a connection on a button.  I think that stuff is worked out.  Lesson be very careful when stacking pcbs.  Don’t use feet and instead use plastic spacers, I think that would be fine.  Also do a continuity test on any cables you make!  Such a simple problem that I could have avoided. 

My mk2 board seems a bit finicky.  I think the connections from the main rom board to the secondary rom board are not great.  I got it working by shifting it around a bit.  Umk3 has been rock solid.  I did have a strange issue where I’m getting stereo audio out of the supergun on umk3 but just mono from mk2.  Mono audio comes from each board the same way so I’m not quite sure what the deal could be with that.  Could be the jamma switcher or the supergun.  Maybe something stupid I was missing.  I was happy just to get both boards working with controls. 

Next I want to try using the scart out on the supergun running to an ossc and see how that looks on an lcd.  Ideally I’ll use this rgb but I think it’s a good idea to have another option in case an rgb monitor is not available wherever I take this thing. 

I’m finalizing my control panel designs and might build them with a friend instead of getting someone else to do it.  It would probably be a good learning experience for me, so we will see. 

I also got a crossover so I can just send bass frequencies to the shakers.  So each panel will be taking in two audio signals.  One tailored for the small speakers and one tailored for the bass shakers and I’ll have level and bass/treble controls for each.  With all that versatility I’m pretty sure I will be able to dial it in how I want.  I’m picky with audio.  Spoiled from using an Allen and heath qu mixer and nice pa speakers in my little jam room. 

[Malenko]

You can burn bigger ROMs to the main board of MKII and eliminate the daughter board completely.