How to mount a 32" LCD in cabinet? How to mount large control panel?

[obizues]

I'm going to be mounting an LCD in my cabinet, and also my control panel that is an "aircraft carrier" to the cabinet as well.

First, is there a "best way" to mount a TV inside the cabinet?  I can't imagine just running a 3/4" piece of plywood will support a 32" LCD

Second, My control panel goes well past the profile "arms" of my cabinet.  Will I have a problem with it supporting the weight of the CP?  Should I extend the "arms?"  How have people done it in the past?

Pictures for reference:





Note: I'm using 3/4" plywood for all of my wood except for the control panel which I will be using 1/2" and 1/4" with 1/16" polycarb on top.

[BadMouth]

  I can't imagine just running a 3/4" piece of plywood will support a 32" LCD

It will just fine.  Use the VESA mounting holes on the back of the TV.  Use one big strip that is just slightly wider than the VESA mounting pattern, or two smaller strips so the TV still has ventilation.

I don't think the overhang of the CP will be an issue as long as it's built and anchored solidly. 
Overkill, but I'd run doubled up 3/4" plywood accross the inside of the cab where the back of the CP will rest against and mount it using bolts.
You could have the head of the bolts braced on the inside of the cab so they don't rotate, then the CP could slide onto them and be held in place by nuts inside the CP.
I'd use way bigger than necessary bolts so the heads have bigger flat sides to prevent turning and it would look cool.

[obizues]

  I can't imagine just running a 3/4" piece of plywood will support a 32" LCD

It will just fine.  Use the VESA mounting holes on the back of the TV.  Use one big strip that is just slightly wider than the VESA mounting pattern, or two smaller strips so the TV still has ventilation.

I don't think the overhang of the CP will be an issue as long as it's built and anchored solidly. 
Overkill, but I'd run doubled up 3/4" plywood accross the inside of the cab where the back of the CP will rest against and mount it using bolts.
You could have the head of the bolts braced on the inside of the cab so they don't rotate, then the CP could slide onto them and be held in place by nuts inside the CP.
I'd use way bigger than necessary bolts so the heads have bigger flat sides to prevent turning and it would look cool.

I should be okay then since my entire cabinet is going to be cut out of 3/4" plywood.

[bperkins01]

I have a 32" LCD - I mounted it directly to the bezel.

You can find it in the thread - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156272.0.html

Or see it summarized up here:  https://bperkins.wordpress.com/2018/03/05/cabinet-construction-begins/

My thought was mounting directly to a Bezel would be 'somewhat' simpler that a vesa mount and trying to get things to line up..

[BadMouth]

I thought I was done giving advice on BYOAC, but since I seem to be on a roll with your threads....


Do we need to have the angled joystick discussion?
(the red one is wrong)

[obizues]

My thought was mounting directly to a Bezel would be 'somewhat' simpler that a vesa mount and trying to get things to line up..

What supports the bezel though?

[obizues]

I thought I was done giving advice on BYOAC, but since I seem to be on a roll with your threads....


Do we need to have the angled joystick discussion?
(the red one is wrong)

Nope, I’ve been told many times about that already. 

[bperkins01]

My thought was mounting directly to a Bezel would be 'somewhat' simpler that a vesa mount and trying to get things to line up..

What supports the bezel though?

In my case - the cabinet itself.  But you can also make mounting blocks..  Which you would do for a bezel anyway.

[proplayer77]

Hi, im on the phase to make the mount for my 32 i simply use the VESA holes to bolt the screen from the back of the support for the screen. The screen also gets support from the top corners:

[obizues]

Hi, im on the phase to make the mount for my 32 i simply use the VESA holes to bolt the screen from the back of the support for the screen. The screen also gets support from the top corners:

Oh wow, interesting.

Thanks!

[paigeoliver]

Real cabinet makers don't overhang the front by more than a couple inches, otherwise you make the coin door impossible to reach and the panel becomes a lever that can flip the cabinet over. They also don't just have a silly little 2" wing of unbraced mdf coming out on each side as support, they box that stuff in. The slightest sideways movement can snap those little support bits right off.

[paigeoliver]

Here, I mostly fixed it. I am sure I wasted my time, but maybe it will keep someone from making these mistakes.

The control panel is at too steep of an angle. People are still going to set drinks on it at that angle but they will get knocked over. Better to be closer to flat and it won't happen. I didn't bother to change the angle in the picture, too much work.

That little curve at the front of the panel does nothing but create a weak point, exaggerate the lever effect, and keep the players away from the controls, so off it went (also, real cabinets never really did that until very recently when Chinese companies started doing it, but they were literally just copying the bad designs from here).

Front of the cabinet comes out near the front of the panel. This makes the cabinet stable and strong. For maximum strength that front panel should only barely be recessed from the sides, cabinets that recessed that panel 2 or 3 inches were always getting the front corners knocked off them (see most unrestored Robotron cabinets).

Also, that complex panel shape you have going there just makes your machine more difficult to build, weaker, and creates some nice corners to poke your players in the stomach. See basically every real 4 player cabinet ever to see how they all had rectangular panels. Finally your panel seems to be at least 4-6" needlessly too wide for the control layout you show, even if you keep the spacing as is. You don't need 6" of empty space between a control and the cabinet edge, 1" is fine, almost touching the edge of the box is fine.

[yotsuya]

Here, I mostly fixed it. I am sure I wasted my time, but maybe it will keep someone from making these mistakes.

The control panel is at too steep of an angle. People are still going to set drinks on it at that angle but they will get knocked over. Better to be closer to flat and it won't happen. I didn't bother to change the angle in the picture, too much work.

That little curve at the front of the panel does nothing but create a weak point, exaggerate the lever effect, and keep the players away from the controls, so off it went (also, real cabinets never really did that until very recently when Chinese companies started doing it, but they were literally just copying the bad designs from here).

Front of the cabinet comes out near the front of the panel. This makes the cabinet stable and strong. For maximum strength that front panel should only barely be recessed from the sides, cabinets that recessed that panel 2 or 3 inches were always getting the front corners knocked off them (see most unrestored Robotron cabinets).

Also, that complex panel shape you have going there just makes your machine more difficult to build, weaker, and creates some nice corners to poke your players in the stomach. See basically every real 4 player cabinet ever to see how they all had rectangular panels. Finally your panel seems to be at least 4-6" needlessly too wide for the control layout you show, even if you keep the spacing as is. You don't need 6" of empty space between a control and the cabinet edge, 1" is fine, almost touching the edge of the box is fine.

Yeah, that’s the stuff.

[paigeoliver]

Oh, and the panel box isn't normally a sandwich, it has a top and sides, but generally does not have a bottom.