IMPERIAL HYPERSPIN (Project Codename : Forgery of FLYNN's)

[ginkgoblue]

Obligatory "been lurking for a long time and finally ready to jump in" statement goes here.

When I was around 9-10 years old my Aunt bought me a NES advantage for my birthday....



I thought that thing was AWESOME....not because it was awesome playing console games on arcade controls, rather because a dream was born; I had a dream of building a cabinet that housed my TV and my NES and attaching my advantage to the it and having my very own 'arcade' in my bedroom. All of my friends would think I was the coolest and play my arcade with me. Never did it.

Fast forward to a few years ago when a buddy showed me his NES emulator on his phone, a quick google search landed me on MAME and emulation and my dream was reborn when I landed on BYOAC.

I am a busy guy and over the past few years, I would lurk here when I found some spare time and thought that some of these builds were glorious and I wanted to do the same.

Until a few weeks ago.....a bar/restaurant in my area recently added a small 'arcade' to it's facility - about 20 or so classic games on rehabbed cabinets, mostly garbled together.  I took my boys family there for lunch and my 8 year old son says "dad, wouldn't it be cool if we could play games t'like this at home?"

Enough said. I'm sold. I guess the apple really doesn't fall that far and now I am guaranteed to have at least one 'friend' that thinks it is cool to do this, I am jumping in to the pool that is my childhood dream.  I really never did plan on growing up anyway.

So, since I am such a busy guy, I really haven't had enough time to pour over all of the undoubtedly amazing builds on here, there is one, in particular, that caught my (and a lot of others, no doubt) eyes; Chance's FLYNN's Arcade. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=135116.0

Obviously, this is a stellar build, but more impressive is the attention to detail that the build thread has.  I am a guy who is known for millions of ideas that I rarely complete, and when I do start them, rarely do I give them the polish that is required to be considered on the level of the high quality builds I have seen here, namely FLYNN's and others.

So, I have decided to use my own build thread, and you guys, as a way to force myself to complete this project in an UPSCALE fashion that is needed for me to receive the hallowed Spousal Approval that I am after.  Please feel free to demand (and provide the wisdom required for) a high quality completed build on this one.  I have no idea hos long this will take, as I tend to obsess over my current projects until they are 75% complete and then tail off...I DO NOT want to do that this time, so we shall see.

OK, so here it goes....

Controls: IL Convex, 2 ball top US360's, 2 ball top j-sticks, U-Track pearl Trackball.
TV: 32" TBD
Computer: Custom built Emulation machine with Nvidia TI750 and some other stuff that I built last year
Cabinet: Wide body, low profile LCD design. 4 player CP
Electronics: Ipac Ultimate I/O, IL RGB-LEDs, Spare PSU for Cab lights etc, OLD PC speakers/sub I have laying around

Design Goals:
-3/4 Cabinet Birch with MDF CP
-LED backlight for the marquee.
-Faux 4-player coin panel.  Matching color return buttons, theme logo vinyl graphic.
-Chassis mounted volume control and USB, located on front of the CP.
-2.1 audio system.
-Top cabinet ventilation. Going for a clean look, so i'll hide them up top.
-Clean and SEMI-organized CP wire job. (I doubt I have the fortitude to do the beautiful job on this that some of you have, but I'll Try) 
-IL Concave RGB/LED buttons (black tops, lit rings) (As seen on the Two-Headed Beast/Flynn's)
-wire coin buttons on front panel add credits, no coin buttons on CP
-Magnetically attached marque holder.
-Hyperspin Frontend with custom GUI skin.
-Removable CP module. Bolts, washers and clamping knobs to make Cab/CP separation easy/painless,

Control Panel:
-Modified from jarrett's "Space Paranoids" 4-Player design.
-4 player controls, P1/2 6-button, P3/4 4-button. 8way sticks, recessed trackball.
-4 Start button,
-2 MAME master control buttons: Pause and Exit
-no bolts or plates shown on surface.
-3 button power I/O somewhere. One latching for master power, then one momentary each for TV and PC.

Game list (Must Have's):
- My simplified version of ALL-KILLER
-NBA JAM
-NFL BLITZ
-2on2 OPEN ICE
-Ghosts-n-Goblins
-Ms. Pac-Man
-The Simpsons
-TMNT
-GTA1
-Donkey Kong series
-Marvel VS Capcom
-Metal Slug Series
-Final Fight
-Double Dragon
-Mortal Kombat Series (possibly X)
-Street Fighter Series (possibly IV?)
-Golden Tee/Tiger Woods (trackball golf)
-Centipede
-Many, Many more...

Design steps:
1. Front End design and Software configuration (CHECK!)
2. Planning, sourcing, materials (Started)
3. CP Build
4. Finalize Cab design
5. Built the Cab at the shop
6. Paint and/or Laminate the Cab
7. Artwork
8. Move the Cab to my basement.
9. Spousal approval
10. Beer, Juiceboxes & Video games.

Theme and Artwork.
My sons are currently big Star Wars fans, especially Darth Vader. I am a casual Star Wars fan and I like the subtle colors/ design that a an Imperial themed cabinet can be, so that's the plan. A subtle, Dark Imperial theme.  Also, I have a few ideas that I think will make my cabinet unique, and a few sources that I am hoping to be able to utilize....in true Chance fashion, I will keep those under wraps for now...


OK, so here we go. Time to get started.

P.S. Chance: I hope you are not offended by my blatant plagiarism, and if you aren't, get used to it as I am going to try to mimic your build early and often in hopes that I can end up with a flat out AMAZING build like you did.  If you are, let me know and I will attempt to be much less obvious...
 

[Ian]

Awesome! I am pumped that you are moving forward with the build! It's a unique hobby for sure, glad you are living the dream.

A couple of things to think about...

First thing is the 4-player cabinet. I think the majority of us here in the hobby made the rookie mistake of building a 4-player build the first try. The problem you will find out is that there really are not a lot of 4-player games. And the ones that are there don't hold the replay value other games. Plus it's rare if you actually have 4 people that want to play the game. The majority of us have found the best bang for the buck is a two player cabinet. You can still play tmnt and xmen but you will save space and a lot of money.

But if you really have your heart set on a 4-player cp then go for it and build what you like. Just make sure you do not angle the joysticks. All four joysticks should face the screen.

The other piece of advice to to plan plan plan before you cut. Design a layout for the cp that you like and if you can build a replica out of some cardboard to make sure everything is placed perfectly for you and the fam.

I can't wait to see what you come up with and I am sure it will be awesome. So fire away any and all questions you have!

[ginkgoblue]

Awesome! I am pumped that you are moving forward with the build! It's a unique hobby for sure, glad you are living the dream.

A couple of things to think about...

First thing is the 4-player cabinet. I think the majority of us here in the hobby made the rookie mistake of building a 4-player build the first try. The problem you will find out is that there really are not a lot of 4-player games. And the ones that are there don't hold the replay value other games. Plus it's rare if you actually have 4 people that want to play the game. The majority of us have found the best bang for the buck is a two player cabinet. You can still play tmnt and xmen but you will save space and a lot of money.

But if you really have your heart set on a 4-player cp then go for it and build what you like. Just make sure you do not angle the joysticks. All four joysticks should face the screen.

Thanks for the input!

NBA JAM, man.  I grew up playing 4 Player NBA Jam like a maniac at the arcade. If I only get to relive that once per year, the extra work to crate the 4 P CP will be every bit worth it! Also, my boys have friends over in spades, so I can see them using 4 player more than even I will.

Screen perpendicular joys for 3 and 4, got it.

[yotsuya]

Also, I have a few ideas that I think will make my cabinet unique, and a few sources that I am hoping to be able to utilize....in true Chance fashion, I will keep those under wraps for now...

If you start a YouTube channel I will literally fly out to where you live and beat your ass.

[ginkgoblue]

Ok. Here is the art that I posted on the other thread. I have decided that I am going to stick with this design and layout. I had it printed full size at my local kinkos for $5 to use as a template for cutting my CP.  no actual controls yet (although they are ordered, more on that later) but I set it up and had 4 people standing at it, playing an imaginary game of 4 players. Maybe I will regret it later (I doubt it as the imaginary game was even fun) but it seems to be just fine for 4 players.




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[ginkgoblue]

If you start a YouTube channel I will literally fly out to where you live and beat your ass.


[/quote]

I already have a YouTube channel, although it  has zero to do with games/arcade....

Edit: apparently I am not good at quoting in Tapatalk

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[yotsuya]

If you start a YouTube channel I will literally fly out to where you live and beat your ass.

I already have a YouTube channel, although it  has zero to do with games/arcade....

Edit: apparently I am not good at quoting in Tapatalk

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[/quote]

[ginkgoblue]

Update: Placed orders for controls....

Ultimarc (shout out to Andy, he really is as helpful as everyone says!)

2 - Ultrastick 360 Ball Top w/usb
2 - J-Stick Ball Top (4/8 way)
4 - Long Handle Shaft for Ball Top
4 - Stiff Springs
4 - Joystick Mounting Kits

1 - U-Track Flushmount Arcade Trackball (Pearl with USB cable)
1 - U-Track RGB Illumination kit
1 - Trim Bezel for U-Track

1 - Ipac Ultimate I/O interface with full wiring harnes
1 - P3/P4 connection pack for Ultimate I/O interface


Paradise Arcade Shop (Shout to Susan who is also as helpful as advertised)

24 - iL PSL-L Translucent Buttons with Black Concave Plunger
4 - P1-P4 iL PSL-L Translucent Buttons with Black Concave Plunger
32 - iL Black Button nuts

32 - iL-lumination RGB 5v LED
8 - Tropical Mood Light RGB 5v LED


Groovy Game Gear
4 - NovaGem CDR Coin Drop Replacement Pushbutton with RGB LEDs

[Le Chuck]

You and those pesky underwear gnomes...

Asks for all the feedback. 
Gets all the feedback. 
Takes none of the feedback.
? ? ? ?
Profit. 

[yotsuya]

You and those pesky underwear gnomes...

Asks for all the feedback. 
Gets all the feedback. 
Takes none of the feedback.
? ? ? ?
Profit.

I'm glad you said what we all were thinking.

[luizw81]

If you've got kids then it's best that you did go with a 4 player cab.  I followed everyone's advice and built a 2 player.  Now I can't even cut the thing on without both of my kids running into the room.

I love playing TMNT and Sunset Riders with them but I get stuck with the PS3 controller to make them happy.  Oh well...Means I get to start a new build in the near future!  Lol

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[ginkgoblue]

You and those pesky underwear gnomes...

Asks for all the feedback. 
Gets all the feedback. 
Takes none of the feedback.
? ? ? ?
Profit.

Goes more like....

Asks for feed back.

Gets some feedback.

Truly appreciates feedback, especially from more experienced peoples, which is why asked in the first place.

Thinks long and hard about feedback.

Prints scale template to judge for self, taking into consideration all feedback.

Decides on original plan.

Gets poked for making "wrong" decision.







Seriously, though. Keep all the feedback coming along the way, good or bad, I'll need both.


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[yotsuya]

Seriously, though. Keep all the feedback coming along the way, good or bad, I'll need both.

Oh no, we're not falling for THAT again....

;-)

[DrakeTungsten]

But if you really have your heart set on a 4-player cp then go for it and build what you like.

...Takes none of the feedback.

? ? ?

Ginkgoblue, you'll find some good advice around here, but you'll also have to develop a tolerance for this kind of nonsense. Somehow they read "advice" as "orders", and you'll find that they are sloppy with using all-inclusive words like "none" or "all" . And as you've seen, if your personal objectives are not relevant to their canned responses, the incongruity is obviously your fault for not changing your objectives. I wouldn't take it personally (not that you did), it's juts what happens.

[yotsuya]

LeChuck gave the OP some design feedback. Usually when someone asks for feedback (especially in regards to artwork), they make some changes based on said feedback, even at the draft stage, and post it to see what that design feedback looks like and solicits more opinions, so the process is fluid and evolving. That's how feedback generally works. It's benefited many, including myself, from time to time.

The OP made no design changes, no new design drafts, didn't solicit any additional feedback or explanation. That's fine, that's his right. Quite frankly, I'm tired of you and your insinuation that there's a gang of bullies here that wants things a certain way. He can build what he wants, but don't ask for feedback if you have no intention of at least TRYING to see what those changes might look like. Just build what you want and post it when it's done then.

[ginkgoblue]

LeChuck gave the OP some design feedback. Usually when someone asks for feedback (especially in regards to artwork), they make some changes based on said feedback, even at the draft stage, and post it to see what that design feedback looks like and solicits more opinions, so the process is fluid and evolving. That's how feedback generally works. It's benefited many, including myself, from time to time.

The OP made no design changes, no new design drafts, didn't solicit any additional feedback or explanation. That's fine, that's his right. Quite frankly, I'm tired of you and your insinuation that there's a gang of bullies here that wants things a certain way. He can build what he wants, but don't ask for feedback if you have no intention of at least TRYING to see what those changes might look like. Just build what you want and post it when it's done then.

FYI-I did try changing the font away from Aurebesh and didn't want it to be something that people would read, just used it as art.

Secondly, I originally had a smaller graphic sound the trackball and opted for the larger one.

I do value the feedback, I just had already put a lot of thought into the aspects of the design that was addressed, it is possible that someone would make me think of something else, which is why I asked. It didn't happen, so I stuck with my original design. No problems here.


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[yotsuya]

LeChuck gave the OP some design feedback. Usually when someone asks for feedback (especially in regards to artwork), they make some changes based on said feedback, even at the draft stage, and post it to see what that design feedback looks like and solicits more opinions, so the process is fluid and evolving. That's how feedback generally works. It's benefited many, including myself, from time to time.

The OP made no design changes, no new design drafts, didn't solicit any additional feedback or explanation. That's fine, that's his right. Quite frankly, I'm tired of you and your insinuation that there's a gang of bullies here that wants things a certain way. He can build what he wants, but don't ask for feedback if you have no intention of at least TRYING to see what those changes might look like. Just build what you want and post it when it's done then.

FYI-I did try changing the font away from Aurebesh and didn't want it to be something that people would read, just used it as art.

Secondly, I originally had a smaller graphic sound the trackball and opted for the larger one.

I do value the feedback, I just had already put a lot of thought into the aspects of the design that was addressed, it is possible that someone would make me think of something else, which is why I asked. It didn't happen, so I stuck with my original design. No problems here.


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Please don't let this little side discussion distract you from what you're trying to accomplish here. I weighed in on your art, I like the subtlety of it. Yes, I don't like the control panel shape but you've decided to go with it and that's your decision. Go for it.

I hope you know that the feedback a lot of people provide it's based on their own experience. There's no ulterior motives here, no marching orders that things have to be done a certain way. It's just that a lot of us have made those mistakes and like to let people know that what might seem like a good idea now may not necessarily be the best idea down the road. One thing I have learned from this hobby is to never fall in love with your first idea. I've had some things I thought were going to be really cool in my head, and after I show them to a few people whose opinions I trust here, I realized that yeah, maybe wasn't the best idea after all. And ultimately I've ended up with things that make me a lot happier.

In the end, as long as you and your kids enjoy it, that's all that matters. Build what you dig, bro.

[DrakeTungsten]

[Original this post was based on incomplete information (although the other thread the OP referenced backs up my original post here), and I can't find the "delete post" button]

[Le Chuck]

So I'm guessing you haven't read the art thread about this exact topic then? Lol.

[ginkgoblue]

Geez yots, I want to try to take you seriously, but when you start off with this:

LeChuck gave the OP some design feedback.

...but the entirety of LeChuck's one and only post is this:

You and those pesky underwear gnomes...

Asks for all the feedback. 
Gets all the feedback. 
Takes none of the feedback.
? ? ? ?
Profit.

...well, I just can't do it. It's less to do with bullying than it is you guys getting so defensive that you can't think straight. But tell yourself whatever you need to to make it through the day. Sorry about the tangent Ginkgoblue, but I'm done now. Hopefully the next similar situation will turn out better.

In fairness, he did give me feedback on another thread in the artwork forum, which he is speaking about here. You boys need to chillax in here. I like the feedback, the only part that confused me was when I opted to forgo the opinion of others in the interest of my own ideas that I happened to like better I took a slight poking. But it's all good.....

I'd like to move this thread back to my build and avoid the back and forth if we could....

Got shipping info and it looks like I should have all my controls In by midweek or so....I better get to making some sawdust and prep for artwork....reminder, I am only building the CP first, I want to take that to completion before finalizing design/artwork on the cabinet.

That being said, I'm still unsure of a few things....

Before applying graphics to the CP, I plan to have all the holes cut....then I need to prime? Before applying adhesive graphics? (MDF panel, the rest of the cabinet will be birch)



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[yotsuya]

[Original post based on incomplete information, and I can't find the "delete post" button]

Own your words, my friend. "Oops, my bad" is better than hiding behind the delete button.

[yotsuya]

Take the time to prime and sand before you apply and graphics. You'll be happier.

[leapinlew]

I'm a little late to the "shape of the CP" discussion, but the only thing I would consider is to soften the front corners. Getting around that with T-molding will be near impossible.

[leapinlew]

Another thing, you may want to consider halos around your button clusters. This is an example:



This helps ground the controls to which joysticks. As silly as it sounds, it helps people figure out that this bunch of controls is player 1, and these are the buttons that go with player one. It's not always obvious to people that from left to right, it's player 3, 1, 2, 4. Unless you've mapped yours differently.

[KLRinstinct]

Cool man. Hey I'm doing a Flynns copy too. Mine will likely be dubbed the cheap bastard version. Think cousin Randy from National Lampoons Christmas Vacation. Maybe we can help spur each other along. Like you I tend to trail off towards the end of projects too lol.

[yotsuya]

Cool man. Hey I'm doing a Flynns copy too. Mine will likely be dubbed the cheap bastard version. Think cousin Randy from National Lampoons Christmas Vacation. Maybe we can help spur each other along. Like you I tend to trail off towards the end of projects too lol.

Cousin EDDIE, infidel.

[KLRinstinct]

Cool man. Hey I'm doing a Flynns copy too. Mine will likely be dubbed the cheap bastard version. Think cousin Randy from National Lampoons Christmas Vacation. Maybe we can help spur each other along. Like you I tend to trail off towards the end of projects too lol.

Cousin EDDIE, infidel.

Dow! Ya got me there.

Just another thought I had too. If your gonna play Mortal Kombat X and Street Fighter 4 (PC) those games both use 8 buttons. I have just started thinking myself whether 4 buttons for players 3/4 is gonna cut the cheese too. There are some great 4 player game cube games and I've noticed their controllers have 8 buttons on them. So I'm kinda wondering what to do myself..

[Scotty_C]

Well I'm excited to see how this build goes! Having nearly mirrored a FLYNN's myself the only thing I would really change on the CP is the 3/4 player button positions. I would move them more inward away from the edge of the CP so a palm doesn't ride right on the edge of the CP. Just my .02

[ginkgoblue]

Cool man. Hey I'm doing a Flynns copy too. Mine will likely be dubbed the cheap bastard version. Think cousin Randy from National Lampoons Christmas Vacation. Maybe we can help spur each other along. Like you I tend to trail off towards the end of projects too lol.

Cousin EDDIE, infidel.

Dow! Ya got me there.

Just another thought I had too. If your gonna play Mortal Kombat X and Street Fighter 4 (PC) those games both use 8 buttons. I have just started thinking myself whether 4 buttons for players 3/4 is gonna cut the cheese too. There are some great 4 player game cube games and I've noticed their controllers have 8 buttons on them. So I'm kinda wondering what to do myself..

Yeah, I may opt for not playing the PC games, it was just a thought. I definitely don't want to add a bunch of buttons just for a couple games.

As far as GameCube games, I have another plan for that that I haven't quite gotten to yet, down the line I will figure that out....


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[ginkgoblue]

I'm a little late to the "shape of the CP" discussion, but the only thing I would consider is to soften the front corners. Getting around that with T-molding will be near impossible.

Hmmmm. Good point. I am a total rookie when it comes to the t-molding (and most stuff I'll be doing on this build) seems that Chance was able to accomplish this?



I suppose if I have a hard time with the molding (which I will be looking out for now, in that spot) I could modify it at that time....


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[ginkgoblue]

Well I'm excited to see how this build goes! Having nearly mirrored a FLYNN's myself the only thing I would really change on the CP is the 3/4 player button positions. I would move them more inward away from the edge of the CP so a palm doesn't ride right on the edge of the CP. Just my .02

Wow Scotty, glad you chimed in, I hadn't seen your build yet. Awesome build.

I'll have to admit. Builds like yours both inspire AND intimidate me. Hopefully I can end up with a build that is that high class!


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[ginkgoblue]

Small update:

Received my Paradise order today, can't say enough good things about my experience with them.


I have one question though....for those who have used the iL-lumination 5v LEDs, have you glued the LEDs of into place on the bottom of the buttons? Or do they just sit well by sandwiching between the switch and the button housing?


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[ginkgoblue]

Ok. Got a chance to cut the Control Panel today. Rough cut it on a bandsaw and then used a disc sander to finish it in....and a spindle sander to finish the inside rounds....



Then used a 1-1/8" Forstener to drill button/stick holes.

Then had to stick a few buttons in there to get a "working prototype"....

(stripes are a product of quick printing at kinkos, they won't be there in the final design)

Bang head moment of the day....



Drilled the first hole without a backer board and tore the face on the backside, nothing a little bondo (and extra work) won't fix.

Still need to cut the hole for the U-Track. I have a 3" forstener laying around, but I've seen conflicting reports on home size, so I think I'll just wait until my U-Track gets in so I can see for myself....should be here any day now according to previous reports.



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[ginkgoblue]

Update:

Began build on CP base....



After much deliberation, I decided to go with my gut (which told me I wouldn't have the patience/skill to perform a stellar paint job) and laminate the cabinet, as opposed to paint it. I will laminate every surface, inside and out, before assembly and it will, no doubt, turn out better than any paint job I would do.



Very shortly after my last post I received my order from Ultimarc. Unbelievably fast service from the U.K. Impressed again by Ulitmarc.

I got the track ball and sized it up, used the 3" forstener and then traced the trim ring and routered it to a snug fit.




Waiting on acrylic pipe to arrive before finishing the laminate on the backside of the panel.

Maybe I'll work on some sideart/marquee while I wait.



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[ginkgoblue]

Ok. I've put together some sideart.  I really want the cabinet to be visually "quiet" when it is off.  Some of the cabinets with flames and bright colors are amazing to look at, but in my space I don't want it to "stand out".

That being said, I don't want it to be boring either. So in looking for a simple, but cool side art concept, I'm looking to do something like this....



I am hoping to have the sideart be grayscale/monotone....and backlight the Lightsabre and chest electronics?



This is all a work in progress at this point, but I have also threw together a quick marquee design....



I think I may need to "color match" them a little better (I worked on them separately) but I like where I'm headed.  Maybe a gradient on the font?

Subtle but interesting? At least that's the goal.


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[ginkgoblue]

Spent some more time on Marquee Art today. I think this looks a little more dynamic. I'm trying to keep it dark, so it looks almost black when off....my question is how much will it "light up" when backlit? I suppose that depends on how much light I put behind it?

Edit. Credit Le Chuck for "Darkade" word play. Straight up pirated that idea....
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[efp9teen78]

I like the side art but how would you go about back lighting the saber and chest box? And as much as I like the 1st order trooper helmet it would flow better to go with an OG trilogy Trooper helmet in the marquee. But its looking promising Ive been messing around with artwork for my bartop for awhile trying to land a Trooper theme

[ginkgoblue]

I like the side art but how would you go about back lighting the saber and chest box?

Haven't worked out the details yet, as I'm sure it will consist of trial and (many) errors....but the plan is to route a channel into the cabinet sides behind the saber and chest box lights, inlay leds and fill the channel back to flush with frosted plexi/Lexan.

I still need to talk to my printer with options for print media that would give the best effect. I do know that they can print directly onto Lexan (or at least that's what it looked like when he showed me, can't remember what he said), which he suggested for my marquee....maybe that will be a way to incorporate it?


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[yotsuya]

I dunno,  man... you're going to have to be super precise with your side artwork application... I get what you are trying to do, but an inch too far to the left or right and the effect is going to be ruined. Good luck.

[ginkgoblue]

I dunno,  man... you're going to have to be super precise with your side artwork application... I get what you are trying to do, but an inch too far to the left or right and the effect is going to be ruined. Good luck.

This would be the best time to ask about "wet application" technique.  Anyone have success with that? Being able to slide the art around a little when applying it would help greatly....


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