So ... 3d Printers....

[BadMouth]

I like the heavenly glow.  I can't wait to have something dialed in again.
Despite raising the maximum bed temp in the firmware, the bed of the mini topped out around 77 degrees.  It would go higher but not stay there.
A layer of rockwool (safe n sound) under it made a huge difference.  It made and maintained 80 no problem, then 85, then 90.  Then I started to worry that it was only designed for 80, so I didn't go any higher.
(the bed is actually a PCB with a thin aluminum sheet on one side).
Shortened the bed extension back to original size & bought some foil coated fiberboard insulation to build an enclosure.
Haven't attempted ABS again yet, except for running test prints for Marlin settings.

Bought a spring steel sheet with magnetic base for the Mega S.  What I didn't think about until after it was done is that it is only going to be as flat as the plate it is attached to.
So it isn't as flat as the original glass "ultrabase", which I had problems removing large flat prints from.  It's not horrible, a slight hump in the middle where the first layer goes on too thin.
Not sure if I'm keeping it or not, but the smart thing to do would have been to mount the magnetic sheet to a piece of tempered glass instead of the printer bed.

[nitrogen_widget]

My resin printer showed up late saturday after being on an amazon truck all day in 15 deg weather.
I left it sit out on the table all night to let it acclimate.
opened up the bottle of water soluble resin i bought with it and hollee heck it smells.
kids were complaining.
so i'm waiting until they go to their mom's tonight to play with it.
I've read the regular stuff smells even worse.
good thing i worked on my basement this weekend.

i have a long bench down there i can almost get to.
i have some insulation board and steel 2x4's I plan to use to build one giant enclosure for all my printers and use heat lamps to warm it.
looks like I need to add an exhaust fan to it now.

only cost to me is the plexi for the front and maybe a new surface for the bench if I can't sand it smooth and paint it.
I haven't seen the top in 5 yrs so no idea what it looks like. LOL!
And it looks like I can sheets of 24"x48" lexan for 32$ at lowes.
it's .08" thick but i really just want to keep air movement and temp changes from happening while being able to see what is going on with the printer vs really insulating it so it should be fine.

[yotsuya]

I like the heavenly glow.  I can't wait to have something dialed in again.
Despite raising the maximum bed temp in the firmware, the bed of the mini topped out around 77 degrees.  It would go higher but not stay there.
A layer of rockwool (safe n sound) under it made a huge difference.  It made and maintained 80 no problem, then 85, then 90.  Then I started to worry that it was only designed for 80, so I didn't go any higher.
(the bed is actually a PCB with a thin aluminum sheet on one side).
Shortened the bed extension back to original size & bought some foil coated fiberboard insulation to build an enclosure.
Haven't attempted ABS again yet, except for running test prints for Marlin settings.

Bought a spring steel sheet with magnetic base for the Mega S.  What I didn't think about until after it was done is that it is only going to be as flat as the plate it is attached to.
So it isn't as flat as the original glass "ultrabase", which I had problems removing large flat prints from.  It's not horrible, a slight hump in the middle where the first layer goes on too thin.
Not sure if I'm keeping it or not, but the smart thing to do would have been to mount the magnetic sheet to a piece of tempered glass instead of the printer bed.

Yeah, I’ve been looking at steel spring surfaces as well. I’ll probably do the mount it to glass thing.

Back in December I invested in this, and it’s been great. It’s seems pricy until you realize what you get. How many sheets you get, and how much a much smaller roll of blue painters tape costs. Once I get close to running out of the stuff, I’ll look at getting a steel spring sheet.



The price is actually gone up three bucks since I ordered.

Here’s an example of what it looks like in use. I love it because I don’t have to worry about any unsightly seams from tape or anything like that. I just lay down the sheet, and everything proceeds nicely.


Here’s an example of the PCB cage I’m printing right now, you can see how everything lays down nicely on the single sheet.



Here is the machine in the current state, with the lighting upgrades I made this weekend.



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[yotsuya]

My resin printer showed up late saturday after being on an amazon truck all day in 15 deg weather.
I left it sit out on the table all night to let it acclimate.
opened up the bottle of water soluble resin i bought with it and hollee heck it smells.
kids were complaining.
so i'm waiting until they go to their mom's tonight to play with it.
I've read the regular stuff smells even worse.
good thing i worked on my basement this weekend.

i have a long bench down there i can almost get to.
i have some insulation board and steel 2x4's I plan to use to build one giant enclosure for all my printers and use heat lamps to warm it.
looks like I need to add an exhaust fan to it now.

only cost to me is the plexi for the front and maybe a new surface for the bench if I can't sand it smooth and paint it.
I haven't seen the top in 5 yrs so no idea what it looks like. LOL!
And it looks like I can sheets of 24"x48" lexan for 32$ at lowes.
it's .08" thick but i really just want to keep air movement and temp changes from happening while being able to see what is going on with the printer vs really insulating it so it should be fine.

Yeah, and closures of the best. Once I get everything all buttoned up, I’ll post a picture of the new machine inside the enclosure I made.


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[BadMouth]

That is a sweet looking pcb cage.

Removed the magnetic sheet from the Mega S.  The adhesive was a huge PITA to remove. Reinstalled the stock glass ultrabase.  Clipped the PEI/spring steel sheet on top of that using binder clips.  Had to cut out around the clips that hold the ultrabase on, but now I have a removable flexible base that is flat.
So FYI, you can get away with just clipping a spring steel sheet on without using (or buying) the magnetic base.  The one I got was flat enough anyway.

While I'm not a fan of binder clips, I'm much happier with this setup.  It is much flatter that using the magnetic sticker on the bare slightly domed buildplate.

[yotsuya]

That is a sweet looking pcb cage.

Removed the magnetic sheet from the Mega S.  The adhesive was a huge PITA to remove. Reinstalled the stock glass ultrabase.  Clipped the PEI/spring steel sheet on top of that using binder clips.  Had to cut out around the clips that hold the ultrabase on, but now I have a removable flexible base that is flat.
So FYI, you can get away with just clipping a spring steel sheet on without using (or buying) the magnetic base.  The one I got was flat enough anyway.

While I'm not a fan of binder clips, I'm much happier with this setup.  It is much flatter that using the magnetic sticker on the bare slightly domed buildplate.

Nice - yeah, that glass i bought was a nice upgrade. I also picked up a new bed to replace the stock Anet one.

Here’s the cage installed:


I love how much cleaner it makes things already.

I have two more major upgrades planned for this. The first is a swap out the power supply, which Ialready have and just need to do. The second is to install the V6 hotend, and what I’m gonna do is actually build the Voron Afterburner extruder, and then mount it to this 3D printer. That’s a big, radical departure, and I’m excited to do that one. I’m going to print the parts in PETG, so we’ll see how it goes!


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[Gilrock]

I usually read this thread but don't participate.  One of the best things I did 5 years ago was bought my son a cheap 3D printer for Christmas.  Within a week he wanted a nicer one asking for an Ultimaker 2.  Another forum I was on had a similar thread and someone had posted build plans and a parts list for a UM2 clone.  So I told him I would buy the parts if he built it because I thought it would be a good learning experience.  He had to use the cheap printer to print a lot of the parts.  He made me buy him Simplify3D and he now runs it using a Raspberry Pi server I believe running OctoPrint.  So now whenever I need a part I design it and email him the file.  I never really learned how to use it myself and its been nice not needing to.  It doesn't have a bed leveler and I've watched him when the print starts he eyes it real close and reaches under making a couple fine tunings to the screws.  Not sure why but he seems to do this at the start of every print.  I attached a pic of what he built when he was 16.

[yotsuya]

That’s cool, brother. I’ve really enjoyed tinkering in upgrading the cheap printer I bought. There is some satisfaction in making something better.

I used to do the manual thing before every print too, then once I added the aftermarket auto bed leveler, it’s been send print and forget - it’s been the best!


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[Gilrock]

I was interested in the Voran printer you guys were talking about.  I checked out the website and downloaded the BOM for the Voron 2.  Its was a LONG listing and somewhat intimidating....lol.

[nitrogen_widget]

That's a VERY clean print up there Yots.
my last rpizero print had a few strings in between the vents.


resin printer is up and running.
but man the Ball Joint leveling system the voxelabs proxima uses....i cannot recommend just for that.
took me 2 hrs to get it level.
it uses a set screw on the front and side along with a screw on the back which just keeps the ball from falling out and shifting when you crank down on the other set screws.
took a bit to get the back screw to the point where it kept the ball from shifting but not pushing it forward and keeping the build plate from popping up on a corner when you tightened the screw.

the other resin printers with the 4 screws seem like it would be a lot easier.

anyway I printed the test file NP.
printed a really tiny zombie an inch tall (i forgot to scale the model) now i'm printing something bigger to see how that goes.
smell actually is not as bad as I expected, can only really smell the resin when right next to it or i take the top off.

[BadMouth]

Here’s the cage installed:

Clip yo zip-ties!

I attached a pic of what he built when he was 16.

Looks like a dream build for most people. 

I was interested in the Voran printer you guys were talking about.  I checked out the website and downloaded the BOM for the Voron 2.  Its was a LONG listing and somewhat intimidating....lol.

I'm about $750 into it with probably another $300 to go.  Credit card company started stopping the charges about 5 orders in on AliExpress.  The Misumi site allowed me to order the black anodized extrusions, but they won't ship until May.  So I am expecting to have everything here and build in May.  I bought an SKR 1.3 to get the Mini back up and running with the intention of using it on the Voron later, but now the BOM specifies a 1.4 (sourcing guide still links to the 1.3).  I will buy the electronics last in case something changes.

I originally wanted to cut my own extrusion and use linear rails which I already had, but customizing Marlin for my Monoprice Mini Select made me realize that I would not enjoy setting up the software side of a custom build.  With the Voron, everything is already worked out (hopefully) and I just need to follow instructions (hopefully). 

This is very much against my BYO nature, but I am sticking to the plan down to the colors.

[yotsuya]

Here’s the cage installed:

Clip yo zip-ties!

I attached a pic of what he built when he was 16.

Looks like a dream build for most people. 

I was interested in the Voran printer you guys were talking about.  I checked out the website and downloaded the BOM for the Voron 2.  Its was a LONG listing and somewhat intimidating....lol.

I'm about $750 into it with probably another $300 to go.  Credit card company started stopping the charges about 5 orders in on AliExpress.  The Misumi site allowed me to order the black anodized extrusions, but they won't ship until May.  So I am expecting to have everything here and build in May.  I bought an SKR 1.3 to get the Mini back up and running with the intention of using it on the Voron later, but now the BOM specifies a 1.4 (sourcing guide still links to the 1.3).  I will buy the electronics last in case something changes.

I originally wanted to cut my own extrusion and use linear rails which I already had, but customizing Marlin for my Monoprice Mini Select made me realize that I would not enjoy setting up the software side of a custom build.  With the Voron, everything is already worked out (hopefully) and I just need to follow instructions (hopefully). 

This is very much against my BYO nature, but I am sticking to the plan down to the colors.

Cool, glad to see you’re all in on the Voron. I plan to be there by the end of the year. Building the AM8 has been a good exercise for me. Plus, I’ll be able to print better quality parts for the Voron. Hell. I might even reprint some of the parts for the AM8!

And I’ll clip the zip ties once everything is wrapped up! :-)

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[yotsuya]

That's a VERY clean print up there Yots.
my last rpizero print had a few strings in between the vents.


resin printer is up and running.
but man the Ball Joint leveling system the voxelabs proxima uses....i cannot recommend just for that.
took me 2 hrs to get it level.
it uses a set screw on the front and side along with a screw on the back which just keeps the ball from falling out and shifting when you crank down on the other set screws.
took a bit to get the back screw to the point where it kept the ball from shifting but not pushing it forward and keeping the build plate from popping up on a corner when you tightened the screw.

the other resin printers with the 4 screws seem like it would be a lot easier.

anyway I printed the test file NP.
printed a really tiny zombie an inch tall (i forgot to scale the model) now i'm printing something bigger to see how that goes.
smell actually is not as bad as I expected, can only really smell the resin when right next to it or i take the top off.

I need to research resin printers. I really don’t know anything about them. In a nutshell, how are they different from FDM 3D printers?


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[nitrogen_widget]

scratch that, i shoveled snow outside for 45 mins, came in and i could smell the resin.

Well you know how fdm works.

I actually had a very high level understanding of how they worked but after seeing mine work here is the rundown.

resin printers have the build plate upside down.
that dips into a vat of resin with a clear sheet (fep) on the bottom.
under the vat is an LCD with a strong UV light as it's back light.

when you start a print the plate dips into the resin, pushes up against the clear FEP, the LCD turns on? off? the pixels that compose the first layer go clear (allowing the UV light to show through) and the resin cures.
build plate lifts and lowers for the next layer...rinse repeat.
Original models used a color LCD.
the latest is a monchrome LCd which allows for faster printing.
but i wouldn't know how it compares to a color.
Also, you can load the build plate up on these because half the build plate vs a full build plate = same amount of time to print because it does whole layers at once.

If you are level and everything sticks (supports are more important it seems so use a lot, they just pull off) you scrape the model off into your big Tupperware of water or rubbing alcohol depending on the type of resin and use it to wash all the excess resin off though people use Mr. Clean which is so much cheaper and easier to find.
sometimes you have to use an old soft toothbrush for bigger models.

pick off your supports then cure with a UV light.
I bought a UV spotlight and a light powered spinny platform together for this purpose.
Stuck them in a homer bucket lined with tinfoil taped in place with foil tape and hung the light from the lid with zip ties.
I literally just built it in 15 mins for my big print going now.

also, always wear gloves where resin is being touched (except when you touch your printers plastic lid) you use clean hands for that or it's etched forever.

[Gilrock]

Ok I've decide to build a Voron 300mm.  I asked my son if he wanted to build another printer and he said "do we really need another printer we don't use this one very much".  I said no I "want" another printer.  Then later I said well you might move out soon and want to take this printer with you so I'd like to have one here I can use.  The instructions have a few options to sort out.  It says we should print the parts in ABS and we've never used that material.  Not sure if I'd need to enclose the sides of the current printer.  My other idea was print it with PLA like he normally does and then once built reprint everything with ABS.  They also recommend using direct drive and he has a Bowden drive installed on the current one so not sure why they have that recommendation.  Seems like they encourage you to buy the chain instead of printing one.  I also see a hundred mods users have uploaded and wondered if I should just switch to any of those right of out the gate.  So many decisions.

[Gilrock]

So I placed an order with Bolt Depot for everything listed from there in the sourcing guide.  Then I went to mark what I had bought in the BOM spreadsheet and noticed the quantities did not match for 6 items.  I ordered some spares of everything but not enough to cover the differences on 3 of those.  <bangs head on desk>  Now I don't know what to trust in these listed quantities.

Update:  Found another post online with the same comment so apparently only use the BOM spreadsheet for accurate quantities.  Let my mistake help you...lol.  I called and fixed my order.

[yotsuya]

Ok I've decide to build a Voron 300mm.  I asked my son if he wanted to build another printer and he said "do we really need another printer we don't use this one very much".  I said no I "want" another printer.  Then later I said well you might move out soon and want to take this printer with you so I'd like to have one here I can use.  The instructions have a few options to sort out.  It says we should print the parts in ABS and we've never used that material.  Not sure if I'd need to enclose the sides of the current printer.  My other idea was print it with PLA like he normally does and then once built reprint everything with ABS.  They also recommend using direct drive and he has a Bowden drive installed on the current one so not sure why they have that recommendation.  Seems like they encourage you to buy the chain instead of printing one.  I also see a hundred mods users have uploaded and wondered if I should just switch to any of those right of out the gate.  So many decisions.

Hey Gil - good questions!

My friend, who is an expert with these things, has told me she thinks it’s OK to build it out of PETG. PETG is a good middle ground between PLA and ABS. I used it for my AM8 upgrade and so far so good.

I’m going direct drive with mine. Her recommendation was to do so because there are less jams with a direct drive head as opposed to the Bowden set up. She knows what she’s talking about, so I trust her.

It’s awesome man. This Voron is definitely for you, not the kid. :-)


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[Gilrock]

Cool thanks for the tips.  Yeah I like to be more involved in building this one.  I'm sure my son will get interested though when I start.  He was a kid when he built that last one but he's 21 now and graduating from UofA with a Computer Science degree next year.  When I said hey checkout this video he was like "oh its a CoreXY..." like he already knew more than I do...lol.

[nitrogen_widget]

So I placed an order with Bolt Depot for everything listed from there in the sourcing guide.  Then I went to mark what I had bought in the BOM spreadsheet and noticed the quantities did not match for 6 items.  I ordered some spares of everything but not enough to cover the differences on 3 of those.  <bangs head on desk>  Now I don't know what to trust in these listed quantities.

Update:  Found another post online with the same comment so apparently only use the BOM spreadsheet for accurate quantities.  Let my mistake help you...lol.  I called and fixed my order.

I've never heard of bolt depot.
when i was building my printed CNC i ordered the hardware from the guy who created it because it was cheaper and supported his project but mostly because it was cheaper. .
I had to deal with 2 different places and their shipping along with home depot and their prices.

i'll check this place out for my next build.

[Gilrock]

I've never heard of bolt depot.
when i was building my printed CNC i ordered the hardware from the guy who created it because it was cheaper and supported his project but mostly because it was cheaper. .
I had to deal with 2 different places and their shipping along with home depot and their prices.

i'll check this place out for my next build.

Yeah I was just following their "Sourcing Guide" that you can pop up after running the Configurator.  I didn't see any info about buying from the creator.

[BadMouth]

I think I spent too much and ordered from too many different places by following the sourcing guide. https://vorondesign.com/sourcing_guide?model=V2.4
The shipping charges from ordering 1 thing each from 8 different places probably made up for any money saved.

Got my bolt depot order yesterday.  All bags labeled with description and quantity sticker on the front.  (might have even had a drawing, I can't remember)
I noticed differences between the BOM and sourcing guide, but only caught half as many as you.

I wasn't finding a good source for the build plate and the local machine shops I've tried in the past haven't been cool to work with, so I ended up ordering the kit from digmach (along with the DIN rails for mounting the electronics).  Probably paid a premium, but I'm tiring of placing orders for one single item.


In non Voron news, I printed an ABS fan bracket for the Mega on the mini and noticed that the end that curled up faced the tower.
The hotend fan was blowing air through the hotend toward the tower with nowhere for it to go.  The part that curled up off the bed was getting hit by the airflow redirected by the tower.
I moved the fan to the least worst angle and the part printed fine.  Still not attempting any more Voron parts until I have an enclosure built.

The bed of the Mega can get much hotter which has me wondering if I'm using the wrong printer for ABS.  I'm still struggling to get the print quality dialed in on it though.

[Gilrock]

Yeah well luckily 3 of the 6 items were wrong in the other direction so I already had enough on order.  I'd love to buy more items from less sources I've just been having trouble.  Even with just the fastener items it was looking like 4 to 5 orders.  I saw kits for some items like the extrusions but the number/length of the items didn't match the BOM so I avoided it.  Heck I'd probably give someone an extra 2 to 3 hundred just to order an all-in-one kit that was accurate.

[yotsuya]

I think I spent too much and ordered from too many different places by following the sourcing guide. https://vorondesign.com/sourcing_guide?model=V2.4
The shipping charges from ordering 1 thing each from 8 different places probably made up for any money saved.

Got my bolt depot order yesterday.  All bags labeled with description and quantity sticker on the front.  (might have even had a drawing, I can't remember)
I noticed differences between the BOM and sourcing guide, but only caught half as many as you.

I wasn't finding a good source for the build plate and the local machine shops I've tried in the past haven't been cool to work with, so I ended up ordering the kit from digmach (along with the DIN rails for mounting the electronics).  Probably paid a premium, but I'm tiring of placing orders for one single item.


In non Voron news, I printed an ABS fan bracket for the Mega on the mini and noticed that the end that curled up faced the tower.
The hotend fan was blowing air through the hotend toward the tower with nowhere for it to go.  The part that curled up off the bed was getting hit by the airflow redirected by the tower.
I moved the fan to the least worst angle and the part printed fine.  Still not attempting any more Voron parts until I have an enclosure built.

The bed of the Mega can get much hotter which has me wondering if I'm using the wrong printer for ABS.  I'm still struggling to get the print quality dialed in on it though.

Have you looked at enclosures? I did the IKEA Lack table hack but gave it my own flair. Most versions do all the sides in plexi but I wanted something a bit more industrial-looking:




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[BadMouth]

Have you looked at enclosures? I did the IKEA Lack table hack but gave it my own flair. Most versions do all the sides in plexi but I wanted something a bit more industrial-looking:

I looked at some on sites where I was buying parts, but just chuckled at the big price tags.  I had not seen the Ikea table hack.  It looks good.
The mini setup will be temporary though. Bought a $14 sheet of 1/2" foil backed foamboard and a roll of aluminum tape.  I have piles of scrap optix left over from making cabs.
I want to maintain airflow through the bottom of the mini where the SKR board, Y and Z motors are.  It's gonna be ugly, but do the job.

[yotsuya]

Have you looked at enclosures? I did the IKEA Lack table hack but gave it my own flair. Most versions do all the sides in plexi but I wanted something a bit more industrial-looking:

I looked at some on sites where I was buying parts, but just chuckled at the big price tags.  I had not seen the Ikea table hack.  It looks good.
The mini setup will be temporary though. Bought a $14 sheet of 1/2" foil backed foamboard and a roll of aluminum tape.  I have piles of scrap optix left over from making cabs.
I want to maintain airflow through the bottom of the mini where the SKR board, Y and Z motors are.  It's gonna be ugly, but do the job.

Cool. I think I paid $12 each for three IKEA Lack tables, and I bought one 24 x 48 sheet of plexi. The 1/2 MDF I had on hand, as well as the black and white paint. I printed clips for the windows as well.


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[Gilrock]

For the Voron they are showing two different types of T-nuts.  Hammer head and another style with a spring loaded ball bearing.  Wondering why I need both types.  I was about to order from Aliexpress but it was kinda expensive for just that part of the order.  Was considering the option of making the printed T-nut on Thingiverse where you just insert a nut.  Any thoughts?

[nitrogen_widget]

wood filament.

[yotsuya]

For the Voron they are showing two different types of T-nuts.  Hammer head and another style with a spring loaded ball bearing.  Wondering why I need both types.  I was about to order from Aliexpress but it was kinda expensive for just that part of the order.  Was considering the option of making the printed T-nut on Thingiverse where you just insert a nut.  Any thoughts?

I asked my friend that question for you Gil. This is what she said:




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[Gilrock]

Thanks....I already ordered the metal ones.  It wasn't as bad once I got home and took and took another look.  When I clicked on the Amazon links it was coming to like $96 for just T-nuts.  So like someone else said on my 4th transaction on Aliexpress it didn't seem like it was going through.  So call the fraud dept and wait 15 minutes to get a person then he says he doesn't see any issue on their end.  I try again and then it works.  He says you won't have any problems using that card now.  Very next transaction boom...fraud alert email comes...lol.  I gotta take a break and continue ordering another day.  This is nerve-wracking trying to sort out.

One question I do have is do you guys like 1.75mm or 3mm.  I placed an order for some nice red colored tubing for 1.75mm.  Then as soon as I hit the order button I notice another line item on the BOM that says I need to order PTFE tube with 3mm inner diameter.  Then I'm getting mad thinking I just ordered the wrong thing.  I keep getting tripped up trying to line up the sourcing guide with the BOM.

[BadMouth]

Not sure about the bowden tube.  A quick search when I was shopping led me to believe that the larger diameter was because it is direct drive and the tube is just to guide the filament, not control it like when being pushed from behind.  I haven't ordered it yet, so would be interested to know.  IIRC, that was the order that wouldn't go through after the charge was rejected a couple times.

Stayed up until my bedtime making an enclosure for the mini.  It may or may not work, but it sure is shiny!  Optix window is double pane...'cause I got lots of optix scraps.  The sides of the base of the printer are removed and a fan is pushing outside air through it.

Against my better judgement I decided to start a print before bed.....and the skr board is dead.  LCD light comes on, but there is nothing on the screen and it isn't recognized over USB anymore.  Tried to reload the firmware via sd card and I don't think anything happend.  Apparently this is not uncommon with the bigtreetech boards.  There may be a chance to resurrect it over serial, but since it has only been used a week I am returning it to Amazon as defective.  They are shipping the replacement immediately and I have 30 days to return the old one or get charged for the replacement.  So...that might be a reason to order the boards through Amazon despite them costing a bit more there.

[BadMouth]

I fiddled with the skr board some more this morning.  The firmware.bin file on the sd card was disappearing, so the firmware was updating.  There was hope!
Finally came across a post with something other than flashing the bootloader over serial pins (which is over my head, but I can follow instructions). 
All I had to do was comment out #define SERIAL_PORT -1 and uncomment #define SERIAL_PORT_2 -1
Sucks that I had already disconnected everything and removed the board, but it's good that it is working again.  Guess I'll have the two boards needed for the Voron build now.

[Gilrock]

Wow this Voron build is adding up pretty fast.  I'm at $882 and I've only ordered the Fasteners, Motion, frame extrusions, motors, and hotend.  Hope there aren't too many more big ticket items.  I know the build plate will be one.  I found a build plate kit but of course it was only available in the two sizes I'm not building and sold out for mine.  I did find a kit for the belts and pulley stuff then I go to finish out the one last line item in that section, the rails, and find out they will be $139 ($112 + shipping).

[BadMouth]

Wow this Voron build is adding up pretty fast.  I'm at $882 and I've only ordered the Fasteners, Motion, frame extrusions, motors, and hotend.  Hope there aren't too many more big ticket items.  I know the build plate will be one.  I found a build plate kit but of course it was only available in the two sizes I'm not building and sold out for mine.  I did find a kit for the belts and pulley stuff then I go to finish out the one last line item in that section, the rails, and find out they will be $139 ($112 + shipping).

Yeah, when I said I was at $750 with $300 left to go .......I was mistaken.
Spent another $250 on the build plate/heater/pei/din rail kit and still haven't bought much from the electronics section.
It has to come to an end eventually. 

I am working 20 hours/week overtime to bankroll this, but it still hurts. 
Need to sit down and add everything up and see exactly what has been spent and how much more it will cost.

[Gilrock]

Yeah what drive me crazy is almost every link for AliExpress goes to a different store.  I was trying to search for everything in a section to see if multiple items can be gotten from one place but I just lose track of all the tabs I have open and have to just start buying one by one and get $7 to $12 dollar'ed to death.  I was looking at the digimach electronics kit and almost was going to buy it but matching it up with the BOM a few things didn't match and they listed the SKR 1.3 vs 1.4.  Also every item becomes a research project.  I click on a link for what I expect to be a simple fan and get 20 options on the page and the sourcing guide doesn't say anything about which one to pick.  They might have different fan speeds, connectors, bearings, etc.

[BadMouth]

Made a spreadsheet of money spent so far..... $910.  So at least I haven't spent more than I thought.
Haven't calculated the cost of what remains to purchase, but there is a ways to go.

[Gilrock]

I think mine will be at least $1,500.  I'm at $1,335 and still need build plate, DIN rails, and side plastic items.  I've placed about 25 different orders.

[yotsuya]

Heh, now you know why I said wanted to build one you this time next year. Slowly collecting the parts!


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[BadMouth]

My comedy of errors continues....
Got the min back together and in the enclosure.  Even just the LEDs are enough to get it above room temperature.
Felt good enough about it to go straight to printing Voron parts.
The print starts and the nozzle is against the bed, so I relevel.
Then the print starts and the nozzle is against the bed.
And I realize that the V6 mount that I printed out of PLA is now floppy. 

So now it's back out of the enclosure for the purpose of printing an ABS bracket which will hopefully hold up in the heat.
Good thing I have a couple months to get this all worked out.

EDIT: So the hotend fan isn't kicking on after getting the board working again.....

[Gilrock]

Yeah I joined the Voron Discord server and was reading and searching last night.  I searched for the term PETG and after reading all the comments I'm convinced I need to try to use ABS parts for the Voron.  There was confession from one guy who was always advocating PETG was fine and eventually he ended up with some of the parts warping.  I got myself in the queue for the Print It Forward program where you can pay existing users to print the ABS parts but its about a 2 month wait in the queue.  I'm sure some of the parts I've ordered will take that long anyways but I hate waiting.  In the meantime I'm gonna talk with my son to see if we can print ABS on his.  Not sure if that means I'd need to install side panels to enclose it.  I'd like to get them printed myself because then it feels more DIY and if we do get it done I can cancel my spot in the queue.

[yotsuya]

Sounds like a good plan, Gil.

Almost done with the upgrades. My black PETG came in, time to start printing the Voron Afterburner parts! Since I’m still going to be using this hot end for another month or so, while I wait for parts to come in, there were a few original parts I needed to print to either upgrade, reinforce, or replace because they were cracking. So now my stock hot end has accent color parts!

Current status:



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