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RandyT:
--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on December 03, 2024, 07:11:43 am ---I tried getting more speed out of my stock ender3pro. yeah. i can do 60mm/s external perimeters but is shakes the printer like crazy and i get clogs on solid infill for speeds over 40 and over 30 extruder clicks like crazy. poor little guy. started stringing on me also. lol. --- End quote --- Yeah, I gave up trying to rush 3D prints a long time ago. It's hard enough to get repeatable results even when running at slower speeds. My opinion on speed is probably not a popular one, but if you need lots of parts quickly, the better answer is probably to buy more printers. |
nitrogen_widget:
--- Quote from: RandyT on December 03, 2024, 08:55:36 am --- --- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on December 03, 2024, 07:11:43 am ---I tried getting more speed out of my stock ender3pro. yeah. i can do 60mm/s external perimeters but is shakes the printer like crazy and i get clogs on solid infill for speeds over 40 and over 30 extruder clicks like crazy. poor little guy. started stringing on me also. lol. --- End quote --- Yeah, I gave up trying to rush 3D prints a long time ago. It's hard enough to get repeatable results even when running at slower speeds. My opinion on speed is probably not a popular one, but if you need lots of parts quickly, the better answer is probably to buy more printers. --- End quote --- they print as fast as they print. i'm printing large structures that take up a good portion of the bed. it's not going to be done quickly. however, i really do get good prints consistently from my printers with .2 layer heights. |
lilshawn:
--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on December 03, 2024, 07:11:43 am ---I tried getting more speed out of my stock ender3pro. yeah. i can do 60mm/s external perimeters but is shakes the printer like crazy and i get clogs on solid infill for speeds over 40 and over 30 extruder clicks like crazy. poor little guy. started stringing on me also. lol. --- End quote --- i'm doing 120mm/s infills, 60 on outer walls and 80 on inner walls. (i do a lot of slight overhangs and slower speeds keeps them from getting curled up.) I was getting the very start of extruder skips at 120infill/100outer/100inner. random clunks every 5 or 10 minutes... so RIGHT on the edge. if you still have the stock extruder, I recommend removing the screws attaching the hotend to the heatsink... all it does is suck heat out. as long as you don't crash the head doing something dumb like trying to print without a bed level sensor of some kind, you'll be fine with just the support of the heatbreak tube. doing this really help stabilise the head temperatures... especially when you really start pushing the filament in when i start getting impatient for a rough test part and i'm dialing up the the print speed to 150% over my 120/60/80mm speeds. as for your stringing. you might have to tweak your retraction distance up 0.1 or 0.2mm. or possibly lowering your print head temp a couple degrees. (try -3 degrees to start) printing out a couple of the available stringing test prints (ones that do the automatic variable retraction amounts and one with varying head temps already in the gcode) will help you narrow down the issue and what you need to tweak. I switched to almost buying exclusively PLA+ when i need new material and been running it at 210c no issues with extruder slip/stringing. PLA+ I have, says it's good 205 to 230c and i just picked 210 since i also run straight PLA and the PLA seems quite happy with that temp and the same settings i've tweaked to... so i don't have to bother with remembering to change settings when i change materials. So I feel I COULD push it much faster, but honestly... it's already like 8 hours for a print... what do i care if i could get it in 7 hours 45 minutes. i'll be sleeping when it finishes anyway. |
nitrogen_widget:
the extruder motor on my ender3 is failing. it's jumping around and clicking and it isn't a clogged hot end either because it will keep printing making noises. i've double checked e-steps, reduced flow, turned off pressure advance, and slowed solid infill speed to a snails pace and no love. If i raise the hotend temp past 220 i get heat creep and a clog. print quality went downhill also. so since i need a new extruder motor and better heatsink cooling I ordered a sprite pro direct-drive hotend. I like direct drive. i have a few printers with it and they give me less problems when it comes to clogs. |
RandyT:
--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on December 30, 2024, 09:18:02 am ---the extruder motor on my ender3 is failing. it's jumping around and clicking and it isn't a clogged hot end either because it will keep printing making noises. --- End quote --- The nozzle is most likely clogged. This is exactly what mine does when I need to replace it. Keeps printing, but clicking and poor quality. A new nozzle fixes it every time. What happens is the cooked polymer builds up around the inside edges of the filament melt zone, leaving an increasingly narrower tunnel down the middle. The longer a plastic cooks, the harder it gets and the less it can flow. Eventually, it will reduce flow and heat reaching the filament to the point that the extruder can't push enough down the tunnel to do it without stalling the motor. Unless your new extruder uses different nozzles, it will still happen eventually. At least based on what I have seen with my quasi-direct extruder setup. |
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