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nitrogen_widget:
i'm liking klipper.
it was a real pain at first wrapping my head around everything.
now when i hit start my printer homes, does a probe just on the parts of the bed something is printing on then spits out a purge line and gets to work.
i'm able to get 60mm/s external perimeters, 80mm/s internal, and 100ms for infill and supports with much better quality than originally.
i let klipper handle accelerations.
also using stock screen which is nice. nothing graphical and it's knob controlled instead of touch but it's does what i need.

what i found is any faster than current and the poor machine starts shaking itself to death.
so i didn't even bother with input shaping.
running a .6 nozzle and quality is pretty good for miniature terrain.

i have prusaslicer uploading directly to the ender and i use an old chrome book for control.

next is my longer lk5pro with the bad board.
i have a btt pico board with an rpi zero 2 and the rpi touch screen to put into it.
printed new screen case and need to design new board mounts for inside the printer.
new cooling printed up and adding bltouch.
again not looking for speed just want another working printer, though like the ender i expect to get some speedier prints out of it and plan to use input shaping on this one. it's a little newer and i think it can handle at least 100mms external perimeters.

i have a few more printers dead i plan to put klipper on also.

i don't believe klipper is the answer just for the sake of klipper but when your printer has a fault and blows a mainboard for the stupidest reasons its time to rip that stuff out and go your own route and now that i have some macros and understanding on configuring why wouldn't i go klipper?

BadMouth:
The rpi2 can handle running klipper and input shaping, but asking it to also run a camera might be too much for it.
I am using one on a 150mm Tiny-M without a camera or screen.
It runs something like 28k accelerations, but it outruns the hotend past 150mm/s.
I don't use it much because it isn't enclosed, but have never had an issue with the rpi zero 2.

Once you get comfortable with Klipper, give a CAN toolhead board a try.
If you have printers that break toolhead wiring over time, it's only 4 wires to deal with instead of a big bundle.
There are some newer USB solutions as well.

nitrogen_widget:
didn't know a can breakout board existed. thanks!

so found my rpi screen won't work on pizero2 because no spi connector.
going with a btt pico and btt pi 1.2 plust tft 3.5 for my longer when i get a chance to drag it out of the basement to look at mounts so i can print up brackets for the board.

i really need to go corexy i think for significant speed.
friend of mine's kid picked up a K1s and it's damn fast.

BadMouth:

--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on November 19, 2024, 07:13:39 pm ---i really need to go corexy i think for significant speed.
friend of mine's kid picked up a K1s and it's damn fast.

--- End quote ---

They are great up to a 300mm build plate. Much bigger and the length/stretching of 6mm belts prevents you from cranking up the speed and acceleration. I only print 65mm/s perimeters at 4.6k accels on my 350mm V2. I can push it to 90, but the prints don't look as nice. 9mm belts would improve things, but I haven't gone down that road yet. With the price of the Bambu and K1, it doesn't make any sense to build your own at this point unless you already have 90% of the parts laying around.

nitrogen_widget:
I tried getting more speed out of my stock ender3pro.
yeah. i can do 60mm/s external perimeters but is shakes the printer like crazy and i get clogs on solid infill for speeds over 40 and over 30 extruder clicks like crazy.
poor little guy. started stringing on me also. lol.

i'm gonna dial him back down and just let him print on his own time.
i was going to upgrade the hotend but it was a free box of parts that looked like it was tossed down the stairs in anger. the fact it produces nice prints at all is a miracle.

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