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| nitrogen_widget:
--- Quote from: RandyT on December 30, 2024, 01:08:04 pm --- --- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on December 30, 2024, 09:18:02 am ---the extruder motor on my ender3 is failing. it's jumping around and clicking and it isn't a clogged hot end either because it will keep printing making noises. --- End quote --- The nozzle is most likely clogged. This is exactly what mine does when I need to replace it. Keeps printing, but clicking and poor quality. A new nozzle fixes it every time. What happens is the cooked polymer builds up around the inside edges of the filament melt zone, leaving an increasingly narrower tunnel down the middle. The longer a plastic cooks, the harder it gets and the less it can flow. Eventually, it will reduce flow and heat reaching the filament to the point that the extruder can't push enough down the tunnel to do it without stalling the motor. Unless your new extruder uses different nozzles, it will still happen eventually. At least based on what I have seen with my quasi-direct extruder setup. --- End quote --- i'd agree if that was the case. i've replaced the nozzle, taken the heat block off, checked the inside of the heatsink was clean, verified ptfe end was not restricted, ect. and it still skips on the solid infill and only the solid infill. also if i print pet-g then i def. get a clog. if i print pla around 220 i def. get a clog. could be the extruder, maybe the motor, poor cooling of the hotend? running a minimus OG with a 4010 fan. it's blowing at the heat sink. it's been progressively getting worse the last few days no matter how many nozzles i swap in and i'm running .6mm nozzles so so clogs should be minimal. but now it just starts clicking and creaking right from the start. i'm tired of screwing with it so ordered the direct drive sprite pro. it's a bolt on. |
| RandyT:
--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on December 30, 2024, 02:41:19 pm ---i'd agree if that was the case. i've replaced the nozzle, taken the heat block off, checked the inside of the heatsink was clean, verified ptfe end was not restricted, ect. and it still skips on the solid infill and only the solid infill. also if i print pet-g then i def. get a clog. if i print pla around 220 i def. get a clog. could be the extruder, maybe the motor, poor cooling of the hotend? running a minimus OG with a 4010 fan. it's blowing at the heat sink. it's been progressively getting worse the last few days no matter how many nozzles i swap in and i'm running .6mm nozzles so so clogs should be minimal. but now it just starts clicking and creaking right from the start. --- End quote --- Ok, those things weren't mentioned. Could be a thermocouple or heat block issue as well. I don't know why just pet-g would result in a clog, other than that it usually needs higher temperatures. It almost sounds like the heater block isn't coming to temp, but the thermocouple is telling the controller that it is. I.e. not a clog, just the heater isn't maintaining the melt temps. Or the motor could be weak, but that isn't usually what happens. The steppers usually either work or they don't, which makes sense, because a motors electrical parts are just windings which short or burn open, without a lot in the middle. Also, it seems that those who have run into this issue seem to have always found other solutions to the problem which didn't involve a motor replacement. A weak motor will also get pretty hot while in operation, as it's turning that energy into heat instead of force. One individual who had this issue had a cold motor and found that it wasn't getting the correct power to drive it. His solution was to disconnect and reconnect the motor cable to the PCB, as some light surface corrosion had caused a poor connection. So a check of wires and connectors is a good idea as well. But Bowden extruders just suck in general. IMHO, they are a holdover from the DIY olden days which needs to be forgotten. Replacing it with a direct extruder would be the best first step for any printer. Worry about the other stuff afterward if you still have problems. :) |
| nitrogen_widget:
i think i assembled it wrong. the nozzle and heatbreak are down further than usual. everything is tight. but it's down a few mm's more than usual and i didn't catch it because i always re-zero the hotend when changing nozzle. could a few extra mm's make that much of a difference? idk. but my direct drive came in so i'm putting that on. |
| RandyT:
--- Quote from: nitrogen_widget on December 31, 2024, 01:59:55 pm ---i think i assembled it wrong. the nozzle and heatbreak are down further than usual. everything is tight. but it's down a few mm's more than usual and i didn't catch it because i always re-zero the hotend when changing nozzle. could a few extra mm's make that much of a difference? --- End quote --- A few mm is a lot to be off. If that is creating a cool zone prior to the nozzle (due to the fan blowing on an exposed area or something) it certainly could result in extrusion difficulties. Typically, the nozzle is butted up tight to the heat block and at least on mine, further insulated with a silicone boot right to the tip of the nozzle. Heat will still be conducted to the nozzle, but probably not as much as you think, as the temps are measured directly from the heat block. But I would have to see where the length gain is occurring to have an idea what's happening. --- Quote --- idk. but my direct drive came in so i'm putting that on. --- End quote --- (where's the thumbsup emojii? :) ) |
| nitrogen_widget:
because it was bugging me i looked closer and got out some cut strips of tissue paper and found that because of the slightly lower position of the tip of the nozzle the part cooling vents were pushing the strips of tissue onto the nozzle. so i think i was cooling the nozzle. not scientific but enough for me to say "that was probably it, now bring on the direct drive" i'll try to finish it this weekend. |
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