Author Topic: Orion R10CPDB-DH Mono Chrome 10" CRT...please help. (Read 3159 times)

ScottHerriman · « **on:** February 03, 2016, 12:07:16 pm »

I am a novice and am looking for help in fixing my Arachnid Super 6 dart game. I have replaced the main board and fixed several other issues, and am lastly down to the monitor.

It USED to come on for a few seconds, and then quickly fade to black.
Now, I get nothing.

I AM able to send the video signal to an external monitor via the composite out on the main board, but am hoping to fix the monitor too.

Does anyone have an idea of how/where to start. Do I need a new monitor? Re-cap? Power supply? Should I not waste my time and simply find a way to put an LCD monitor in its place?

Thanks for taking the time to help a newby....I'll even pay for assistance if it helps.
-Scott in Michigan

lilshawn · « **Reply #1 on:** February 03, 2016, 01:46:33 pm »

first rule of diagnosing issues...

thou shalt check voltages.

make sure you have 110 volts going in (or whatever is appropriate for your country)
check your B+ voltage and make sure it's where it should be.

you are going to have to find a schematic or something for your monitor chassis to go much further.

ed12 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 03, 2016, 10:43:02 pm »

ok that is not an orion chassic
that is a orion picture tube #
look close on the chassic and find the #'s listed on it please

ed

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #3 on:** February 03, 2016, 10:52:02 pm »

There are absolutely no markings on the chassis (I assume you mean the metal frame holding the board and tube)

ed12 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 03, 2016, 11:46:51 pm »

ok
with this in hand
remove the chassic and take a picture of it from the top
what we need to do is indentify the chassic
what u posted before dose not show a clear enough or good enough picture of it.
if u are comfortable with removing it? do so,then up-load a picture

ed

lilshawn · « **Reply #5 on:** February 04, 2016, 11:44:47 am »

the smaller "neck board" as it's known is called so because of it's location perched on the end of the tubes neck.

the larger "deflection board" as it's known is called so because of it's job of supplying the high voltages used to deflect the beam to make the picture.

the "chassis" is the collective electronics (deflection and neck boards) that connect to the tube.

you/we will need to identify the chassis make/manufacturer to proceed much further than basic diagnosis... most of these chassis are pretty identifiable just by look to some of the seasoned techs. but a closer look to see some board numbers may be in order if it's a lesser known manufacturer. A good top down pic of the chassis will help immensely.

if you need somewhere to host pictures use imgur.com it's free and it will provide you a link

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #6 on:** February 04, 2016, 12:22:09 pm »

Hope these help. Thanks so very much for your help, folks! I TRULY appreciate it.

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #7 on:** February 04, 2016, 12:23:11 pm »

Another

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #8 on:** February 04, 2016, 12:23:37 pm »

Overhead

ed12 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 04, 2016, 12:56:24 pm »

as of late my nice pill's are working
here u go
1=http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Darts/Arachnid/
that is a live link
once there go to :parnet dir.<

mod's please allow this to stand
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-108948.html
that is your pointer thread

ed

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #10 on:** February 04, 2016, 01:32:21 pm »

Thanks for your reply, but I don't see anything in there as relates to the monitor.

ed12 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 04, 2016, 01:44:26 pm »

the second part of my post leads u to the thread where they are talking about it
and the 2 type's used
u will need to dig through the thread
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-108948.html
from ken layton
>

And don't forget about the Arachnid manuals I put in at arcarc:

http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Darts/Arachnid/

I also wrote a repair guide for the 9" amber monitors they used in these machines. Remember, Arachnid used two different monitor manufacturers (Kristel and Omnivision) during the production run.<

so now u have narrowed down your search from mutil quess game to 2

ed

lilshawn · « **Reply #12 on:** February 04, 2016, 02:03:47 pm »

i'm not entirely sure. most of the darts manuals have all gone 404.

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/OmniVisionMonitor.pdf

this looks about right for the pics you have posted. double check though.

ed12 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 04, 2016, 02:20:52 pm »

good call

side note
did u catch the burning on the monitor edge connector ?

ed

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #14 on:** February 05, 2016, 10:53:52 am »

Burning on the edge connector? I did not catch that...where do you see that?

Thanks for the info guys. I'll get the multimeter on it this weekend.
Would love to get a hold of that manual...maybe Ken still has it?!

lilshawn · « **Reply #15 on:** February 05, 2016, 11:42:23 am »

Quote from: ed12 on February 04, 2016, 02:20:52 pm

good call

side note
did u catch the burning on the monitor edge connector ?

ed

that could be a shadow from the camera flash, but I wouldn't discount it being an issue just yet.

first step is to measure the voltage coming in to the connector to make sure it's 110 or 120 volts (or whatever your normal line voltage is for your house.

ed12 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 05, 2016, 12:26:54 pm »

well when asked i did do a double take

>Burning on the edge connector? I did not catch that...where do you see that?<

thought could be dirt/dust/cam?
but i like u will not leave it out..
one of the thing's i caught from that froum i posted on, was the burning on the edge connector >ground<
which happens to be the frist 2 to the left and right of that edge connector

ed

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #17 on:** February 07, 2016, 12:31:18 pm »

26 vdc at B+

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #18 on:** February 21, 2016, 11:38:16 pm »

Service manual says it needs 55 volts and I am only getting 26. Does this mean a bad PS or would something else be in order?

ed12 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 21, 2016, 11:40:58 pm »

wow i thought this thread went dead ?
if u un-plug the power feed,dose the +26 go up ?

ed

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #20 on:** February 22, 2016, 01:05:57 pm »

Thank you for your attention and help Ed. Actually, that 26 volt reading is taken directly from the 'harness' that plugs into the chassis.

ed12 · « **Reply #21 on:** February 22, 2016, 01:39:07 pm »

ok
with it un-pluged and u only get 26volt's when it call's for 56/57?
then u now need to go down stream
ie: to the power supply unit
filter's etc
if u need i will dig the schematic out for u and look ?

ed

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #22 on:** February 22, 2016, 02:11:00 pm »

You rock, my friend. Perhaps I just buy a new ps and call it a day? Or is it not that simple?

ed12 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 22, 2016, 02:24:44 pm »

if u can solder ?
easy to fix

ed

lilshawn · « **Reply #24 on:** February 22, 2016, 02:39:36 pm »

yeah, it's probably just a rotten old capacitor in the power supply dragging down the voltage. it should be pretty easy to fix.

ScottHerriman · « **Reply #25 on:** February 22, 2016, 02:46:36 pm »

Sure...I can solder....and I appreciate EVERYONE's help!

Tronix4U · « **Reply #26 on:** April 17, 2023, 08:45:33 am »

Hello! I am new in this group but have troubles with the same kind and type of CRT. Did you finally have success with your repair?


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