$99 Windows 10 PC ( Kangaroo)

[JDFan]

Was looking at Newegg today and saw this new Windows 10 mini PC (Kangaroo Mobile desktop) that looks interesting and was wondering if any one had any idea if it would run Mame decently ( seems to have better specs than the Pi and runs a full win10 OS so could use regular pc versions of MAME) - so seems interesting for the $99 Price point it seems to include just about everything that would be needed for an emulator (unlike the PI that needs several add ons )


LINK :  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883722001

[DudeRegular]

I threw that up for another guy in his emulator thread too. I think it looks really cool. It has to be a better solution than all the rpi stuff. Nothing wrong with those, but this thing has pretty nice specs way beyond the 99 bucks they are asking for it in my opinion. Low stock clock speed but it turbos up over 2.2GHz. It probably won't run some of the more demanding MAME stuff like Blitz or Gauntlet Legends, but most stuff should be fine. My kid's bartop is running an old c2d laptop at 1.6 GHz I think and is good.

This thing would probably be great for all the bartop builders doing lcd builds too.

[JDFan]

That's what I was thinking. the  Atom X5-Z8500 seems to have some pretty good specs (though haven't seen any actual performance reviews yet) and it comes with a full version of Win10 home not the cut down version that was designed for the pi that is mising some parts of the OS. Only bad part is the 2GB of ram and 32 GB. eMMC SSD are soldered to the MOBO so no expansion on them (though it has a USB 3.0 port on the dock so an external SSD or HDD could be added) and not really a fan of the Intel chipset graphics but even they have improved over the last few years. Looks like it just released a few days ago and is currently OOS at Newegg, so guess we'll have to wait for awhile to get actual reviews but seems it would be a good alternative to the ArcadeSD @ $325 which is still limited in the games it actually runs - since this runs Windows 10 it should be able to load any of the current front ends and run MAME just wonder where the performance cut off will be for running some of the games. 

[nitrogen_widget]

roughly 3"x5"x.5".

that is tiny & looks more attractive for a peripheral standpoint than the intel stick computers.

[pbj]

Pretty cool, but it's going to need the same thing all these other devices need - someone developing mature software for it.  I've already got a drawer full of similar devices collecting dust because I have no use for them.  At this rate, I'm going to be running that damned Xbox with CoinOps until I die.

[JDFan]

Pretty cool, but it's going to need the same thing all these other devices need - someone developing mature software for it.  I've already got a drawer full of similar devices collecting dust because I have no use for them.  At this rate, I'm going to be running that damned Xbox with CoinOps until I die.

True - but this one does run the full windows 10 OS not a cut down version so even if no specific programs develop at least it can still be useful. And it can use existing windows devices - so you can add an external HDD, wireless keyboard/mouse, etc.

[bdn103]

I have been playing with the Intel compute stick with windows 10. Looks promising and only $150.

On the Linux side, the Raspberry Pi 2 seems solid for the classics...but I haven't wired in a joystick yet. $60 as a kit.

[severdhed]

definitely looks promising.  hopefully someone will pick one of these up and test its performance.  i've been leaning towards a compute stick for my n64 emulation system, but this might be a better choice

[opt2not]

pbj, there's nothing wrong with running the Xbox w/ coin-ops. It's still a pretty good emulation machine.

[pbj]

pbj, there's nothing wrong with running the Xbox w/ coin-ops. It's still a pretty good emulation machine.

Yep, and that's going to be the last complete hijack of a games console you'll ever see.  They got close with Wii but you still have to navigate the menus with the remote.

[Grasshopper]

Just to clarify, is this device x86 compatible?

[JDFan]

Just to clarify, is this device x86 compatible?

Yes it is an x86 64bit processor - From a Tech Times article that gives a decent description of the device ( http://www.techtimes.com/articles/99834/20151027/kangaroo-is-a-99-windows-10-pc-on-a-stick-that-trumps-all-other-options.htm )

Bear in mind that the x5-Z8500 SoC uses the same x86-64 instruction sets as any of the average desktops. Hence, it can run on Windows 10, which comes pre-installed, as well as any Linux-based and other desktop operating systems.

[offset]

I haven't watched this yet (will probably watch it tonight), just saw Lon Seidman do a review of this on his youtube channel.

[vwalbridge]

Only $100?  AND it comes with windows 10? That's nuts. They are practically giving it away. Obviously the Intel NUC is a better computer at this size but can't touch this price point.

I thought the INTEL stick was good but not after seeing this Kangaroo. I'm seriously impressed.

My only complaint: It only has 2GB of RAM. Open a few tabs in Chrome and see what happens with that.

I think we will be seeing a lot more of these ultra-small form factor PCs.

[JDFan]

Only $100?  AND it comes with windows 10? That's nuts. They are practically giving it away. Obviously the Intel NUC is a better computer at this size but can't touch this price point.

I thought the INTEL stick was good but not after seeing this Kangaroo. I'm seriously impressed.

My only complaint: It only has 2GB of RAM. Open a few tabs in Chrome and see what happens with that.

I think we will be seeing a lot more of these ultra-small form factor PCs.

THat was one of the main reasons for Microsofts new licensing model with win10 - since the license is tied to the device and is not transferable to a new device (since no actual product key exists) they can sell OEM versions for cheap without worrying about people buying these type of things and moving the OS to another system instead of buying the OS. SO they can still sell the $100+ OS for retail versions without having to charge that same type of price point for other devices like these cheaper tablets/portable units - thus they can compete in both markets without killing the retail channel.

And Yeah I agree we will be seeing more of these in the coming months (or years) so hopefully a decent alternative for the ArcadeSD will show up soon at a better price point than the $300+ they charge for it and also provide better emulation than the cheap chinese xxx in 1 units.

I might pick one of these up once they are back in stock to see how it plays the classic games etc. JUst wish they had 4GB of Ram rather than the 2GB but for $99, I guess they had to cut somewhere.

[RxBrad]

Can it do hlsl / glsl, though?

Having used hlsl, there's no way I could ever go back.  It's pretty much blown all of my plans for a Pi2 cab out of the water.

[vwalbridge]

Can it do hlsl / glsl, though?

Having used hlsl, there's no way I could ever go back.  It's pretty much blown all of my plans for a Pi2 cab out of the water.

It's running the Intel HD Processor Graphics Gen8  (Gen9 is the latest on Skylake)

I've done HLSL on Gen7 and it held it's own. Of course I have my own optimized HLSL settings that seem to perform well on integrated graphics cards.

[BorgDog]

It's running the Intel HD Processor Graphics Gen8  (Gen9 is the latest on Skylake)

I've done HLSL on Gen7 and it held it's own. Of course I have my own optimized HLSL settings that seem to perform well on integrated graphics cards.

Care to share those?  I wouldn't mind trying them out on some low end systems I have, but I'm a little intimidated by all the settings in there.

[nitrogen_widget]

Here is some info & comparison charts to other CPU's.

http://www.notebookcheck.net/Intel-Atom-x5-Z8500-SoC.146640.0.html

Looks like single core performance is equal to a core2duo net-top processor or amd e-series APU.
Multi-core performance is equal to an a4-5000 notebook processor.

not sure which version of mame to use on this though.

[vwalbridge]

It's running the Intel HD Processor Graphics Gen8  (Gen9 is the latest on Skylake)

I've done HLSL on Gen7 and it held it's own. Of course I have my own optimized HLSL settings that seem to perform well on integrated graphics cards.

Care to share those?  I wouldn't mind trying them out on some low end systems I have, but I'm a little intimidated by all the settings in there.

I've found these settings to look pretty good while not stressing out the graphics card too much.  However, your results may vary so remember to hit "F9" and see your frame rate

both sets below are used in my application for a vertical screen

These settings do not round the corners or use pincushion. (Less intense on the card)

Code: [Select]

#
# DIRECT3D POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
hlsl_enable               1
hlslpath                  hlsl
hlsl_prescale_x           0
hlsl_prescale_y           0
hlsl_preset               -1
hlsl_write               
hlsl_snap_width           1024
hlsl_snap_height          768
shadow_mask_alpha         0.1
shadow_mask_texture       aperture.png
shadow_mask_x_count       320
shadow_mask_y_count       240
shadow_mask_usize         0.09375
shadow_mask_vsize         0.109375
curvature                 0.0
pincushion                0.02
scanline_alpha            1.0
scanline_size             1.0
scanline_height           1.0
scanline_bright_scale     1.0
scanline_bright_offset    0.0
scanline_jitter           0.05
defocus                   0.0,0.0
converge_x                0.2,0.0,0.0
converge_y                0.0,0.0,0.0
radial_converge_x         0.2,0.0,0.0
radial_converge_y         0.0,0.0,0.0
red_ratio                 0.85,0.15,0.0
grn_ratio                 -0.05,1.05,0.0
blu_ratio                 -0.025,-0.025,1.05
saturation                1.0
offset                    -0.15,-0.16,-0.16
scale                     1.15,1.16,1.16
power                     1.1,0.95,0.8
floor                     0.0,0.0,0.0
phosphor_life             0.0,0.0,0.0

#
# NTSC POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
yiq_enable                0
yiq_cc                    3.59754545
yiq_a                     0.5
yiq_b                     0.5
yiq_o                     0.0
yiq_p                     1.0
yiq_n                     1.0
yiq_y                     6.0
yiq_i                     1.2
yiq_q                     0.6
yiq_scan_time             52.6
yiq_phase_count           2

#
# VECTOR POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
vector_length_scale       0.8
vector_length_ratio       500.0

#
# BLOOM POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
vector_bloom_scale        0.3
raster_bloom_scale        0.1
bloom_lvl0_weight         1.0
bloom_lvl1_weight         0.21
bloom_lvl2_weight         0.19
bloom_lvl3_weight         0.17
bloom_lvl4_weight         0.15
bloom_lvl5_weight         0.14
bloom_lvl6_weight         0.13
bloom_lvl7_weight         0.12
bloom_lvl8_weight         0.11
bloom_lvl9_weight         0.10
bloom_lvl10_weight        0.09

However, if you think your card can handle it, these settings have an even more authentic look but are more intense on the card.

Code: [Select]

#
# DIRECT3D POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
hlsl_enable               1
hlslpath                  hlsl
hlsl_prescale_x           0
hlsl_prescale_y           0
hlsl_preset               -1
hlsl_write               
hlsl_snap_width           1024
hlsl_snap_height          768
shadow_mask_alpha         0.1
shadow_mask_texture       aperture.png
shadow_mask_x_count       800
shadow_mask_y_count       600
shadow_mask_usize         0.09375
shadow_mask_vsize         0.109375
curvature                 0.100000
pincushion                0.100000
scanline_alpha            1.0
scanline_size             1.0
scanline_height           1.0
scanline_bright_scale     1.0
scanline_bright_offset    0.0
scanline_jitter           0.05
defocus                   0.0,0.0
converge_x                0.2,0.0,0.0
converge_y                0.0,0.0,0.0
radial_converge_x         0.2,0.0,0.0
radial_converge_y         0.0,0.0,0.0
red_ratio                 1.0,0.0,0.0
grn_ratio                 0.0,1.0,0.0
blu_ratio                 0.0,0.0,1.0
saturation                1.15
offset                    -0.15,-0.16,-0.16
scale                     1.15,1.16,1.16
power                     1.1,0.95,0.8
floor                     0.0,0.0,0.0
phosphor_life             0.0,0.0,0.0

#
# NTSC POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
yiq_enable                0
yiq_cc                    3.59754545
yiq_a                     0.5
yiq_b                     0.5
yiq_o                     0.0
yiq_p                     1.0
yiq_n                     1.0
yiq_y                     6.0
yiq_i                     1.2
yiq_q                     0.6
yiq_scan_time             52.6
yiq_phase_count           2

#
# VECTOR POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
vector_length_scale       0.8
vector_length_ratio       500.0

#
# BLOOM POST-PROCESSING OPTIONS
#
vector_bloom_scale        0.3
raster_bloom_scale        0.1
bloom_lvl0_weight         1.0
bloom_lvl1_weight         0.21
bloom_lvl2_weight         0.19
bloom_lvl3_weight         0.17
bloom_lvl4_weight         0.15
bloom_lvl5_weight         0.14
bloom_lvl6_weight         0.13
bloom_lvl7_weight         0.12
bloom_lvl8_weight         0.11
bloom_lvl9_weight         0.10
bloom_lvl10_weight        0.09


[BorgDog]

Cool thanks, I'll try them out tonight.

[DreamArcades]

This processor is based on Cherry Trail Line (I'll double-check, but I am almost sure). We did tons of testing on the previous line, Bay Trail, and it just wasn't quite up to the task (that's what in the Intel Compute Stick ). It ran older games fine, but wouldn't run games like Gauntlet Legends, or Mortal Kombat 3.

This new line has about the same speed processor, but a slightly better graphics set (like vwalbridge said, it's still not the newest). I have another PC with this chipset, I was going to try and test out this week. If I get around to testing it, then I'll post my thoughts.

When we tested the Bay Trail, it worked fine for the classic games, but couldn't keep up for stuff like G. Legends MK3. I felt we were a couple generations out before we had a really good x86 single board PC for under $100.

[Grasshopper]

Just to clarify, is this device x86 compatible?

Yes it is an x86 64bit processor - From a Tech Times article that gives a decent description of the device ( http://www.techtimes.com/articles/99834/20151027/kangaroo-is-a-99-windows-10-pc-on-a-stick-that-trumps-all-other-options.htm )

Bear in mind that the x5-Z8500 SoC uses the same x86-64 instruction sets as any of the average desktops. Hence, it can run on Windows 10, which comes pre-installed, as well as any Linux-based and other desktop operating systems.

Nice. That makes the device potentially interesting. The only reason for choosing Intel over ARM for devices of this type is x86 compatibility.

I say 'potentially' because there is still a question mark over the bootloader.

Does it come with a proper PC bootloader that can load any PC compatible OS, or is it a heavily locked-down and undocumented bootloader that can only boot a cut-down, non-upgradeable version of Windows 10?

[JDFan]

Does it come with a proper PC bootloader that can load any PC compatible OS, or is it a heavily locked-down and undocumented bootloader that can only boot a cut-down, non-upgradeable version of Windows 10?

Not positive but it is loading a full version of win 10 not a cut down version so would assume it can be wiped and loaded with any OS that you wanted - as long as drivers for the bluetooth, Wifi, etc. can be found. That's why I was wondering what the GPU chipset performed like as it seems it would be a cheaper alternative than the ArcadeSD card and I would think it should run just as well if not better without needing the special romset and limited to the games they have released for it.

[ark_ader]

HP Stream 7 is $79 and you get a screen, Windows 8.1 and Office.  It plays games pretty good, and you can take the OS off and stick whatever you want on it.

[JDFan]

HP Stream 7 is $79 and you get a screen, Windows 8.1 and Office.  It plays games pretty good, and you can take the OS off and stick whatever you want on it.

You say it plays games pretty good - will it run MAME and the classic games at 100% or does the 1GB. of system RAM make it stutter with the disk swapping due to being out of memory with Windows and the emulator etc. all loaded into the 1GB. space ? Just wondering because I was thinking even the 2GB. on the Kangaroo system would be limiting esp since the onboard GPU would be using a good portion of that RAM also.

[BorgDog]

I have the Winbook 7" tablet which I believe is pretty similar to the HP spec wise but only 16GB storage instead of 32 and have no problems with the classics.  You definitely want to strip out what loads at startup to a bare minimum, and I have wifi disabled so no internet/no updates.   It is in my Little Bastard, link in sig I believe.

[JDFan]

I have the Winbook 7" tablet which I believe is pretty similar to the HP spec wise but only 16GB storage instead of 32 and have no problems with the classics.  You definitely want to strip out what loads at startup to a bare minimum, and I have wifi disabled so no internet/no updates.   It is in my Little Bastard, link in sig I believe.

Good to know -- was still trying to decide whether to pick one of these up since I have several monitors that could be used with it (and both an HDMI to DVI adapter and HDMI to VGA adapter) was about ready to place the order the other day after getting a $10 off any purchase code from Newegg in my email - but it was already back out of stock by the time I went to place the order so hopefully they'll get more before the end of the month when the code expires !!

[aldub516]

stuff like this pisses me off.. I spend tons of time and interest in something like the Pi, and then its like, Oh here is this sweet shiny little new guy that will do everything u want with half the learning...


ugh

[vwalbridge]

stuff like this pisses me off.. I spend tons of time and interest in something like the Pi, and then its like, Oh here is this sweet shiny little new guy that will do everything u want with half the learning...


ugh

I've used the Intel NUC and Zotac pi320 in 2 arcade builds. 2 very capable computers that did everything I wanted in my cabs. So glad I never spent the time on the Pi. Nothing against the Pi guys. In fact, nothing but respect for you guys taking the time to pave the road and make it work on that thing. I'm just lazy and windows makes it so damn easy.

If you ask me, the Pi is starting to look like an endangered species. In fact, the Pi makers are gonna have to think up something quick to compete with $99 Windows computers.

[pbj]

I spent $10 on a Raspberry Pi 2 and still feel like I overpaid. 

[tomstewdevine]

I spent $10 on a Raspberry Pi 2 and still feel like I overpaid.

I had a friend give me one because he couldn't figure out nes emulation........ that was far too expensive.

[JDFan]

Looks like they received more stock !!

Order placed while they had them and my 10% off code was still valid so total cost shipped was $92.09 (they snuck in a $2.99 shipping charge between the first time I saw it with Free shipping and the initial restock but the 10% off covered that plus a little.)


EDIT : and they're Out of stock again -- Didn't have much of a window to place an order (had checked this morning and was still out of stock) but it says mine is in packaging stage - so looks like it got in in time !

[vwalbridge]

Looks like they received more stock !!

LOL, and now out of stock again. Man, there are some people out there waiting in line for this thing.

[JDFan]

Looks like they received more stock !!

LOL, and now out of stock again. Man, there are some people out there waiting in line for this thing.

LOL - yeah I was just editing my last post - at least mine says it has processed and is now in packaging stage so guess I made it in time unless they update something later !

And as for waiting in line - they are allowing backorders, so probably have quite a few being sold on back order then when an order comes in and they process all the backorders they evidently don't have many left to restock.

[SNAAKE]

does 1080p full HD?

[zebidia]

Hi everyone. Just popping in to say that I bought one of the Kangaroo units a few days ago, and am really impressed with it so far. I installed MAME on it, using Maximum Arcade as the front-end, and so far it's working great. I have only tried a dozen or so classic games, like Ms Pacman, DK and DKjr, as well as the 194x series of shmups, and they all ran at 100%, even with HLSL enabled. I will be trying more games over the next few days; Not sure which ones would be good to really put the PC to the test... any suggestions?

I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have about it, too.

[JDFan]

Hi everyone. Just popping in to say that I bought one of the Kangaroo units a few days ago, and am really impressed with it so far. I installed MAME on it, using Maximum Arcade as the front-end, and so far it's working great. I have only tried a dozen or so classic games, like Ms Pacman, DK and DKjr, as well as the 194x series of shmups, and they all ran at 100%, even with HLSL enabled. I will be trying more games over the next few days; Not sure which ones would be good to really put the PC to the test... any suggestions?

I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have about it, too.

I got mine about a week ago also - Haven't really tested much yet but from the testing so far am impressed - did play some classics (Robotron, Popeye, Frogger, Tapper, Street Fighter II CE ) and all played 100% - tried Street Fighter EX Plus which is a bit more graphical and it runs about 95% with dips to around 90% range - so it works well with most of the older arcade games and even some of the fighters but will definitely not be for newer heavy graphics games like Gauntlet DL or Street Fighter EX plus and higher. (the combo of onboard intel graphics and only 2 GB. of RAM being shared for the PC and the Graphics make heavily graphical games struggle) - Also played some games of Fix it Felix using the disney leaked version and Howards wrapper and it runs 100% with no slowdowns. Still seems a better alternative to the Pi and ArcadeSD as it performs as well as the Arcade SD but much cheaper and more game options.

For my setup I'm using a 19" Dell 4:3 monitor attached through a HDMI to DVI adapter and a separate USB sound adapter ( $0.99 job from China) with a 6ft HDMI cable running from the kangaroo to the HDMI to DVI adapter (  $1.00 cable and $4 Adapter) hooked to the monitor. A $10 set of PC speakers (110V instead of USB) hooked to the USB sound adapter and a USB 2.0 connection from the Kangaroo to the upstream USB connection on the monitor provides 4 USB 2.0 connections ( 1 used by the sound adapter - 1 for the Wireless Mouse/Keyboard dongle ( while testing and setting up) - 1 for the ZD encoder (using a cheap dual joystick 6 button CP I built for playing on my desktop for testing) and a $22 64GB EVO plus micro sd card for Mameui64 and the roms.

 SO all in about $160 for the PC, adapters needed and monitor for a build that can play the classics and most of the mid level Mame games ( $99 Kangaroo + $22 MicroSD card + $1 6ft HDMI cable + 1 USB Printer cable + $1 USB sound adapter + $5 HDMI to DVI adapter + $10 PC speaker set + $20 Arrowdirect Dell 19" Monitor with 4 USB ports.) makes for a good start on a system for fairly little $.

Overall it is a good option if you keep in mind the limitations ( think it would perform better if they increased it to 4GB Ram, so the GPU chip could use more without limiting the CPU allowance ) but for the $99 a very good deal compared to the Arcade SD @ $350 - though by the time you add the microsd card - and various adapters depending on your monitor (An HDMI monitor would be fine for both sound and display but for VGA or DVI you'd need a solution for adapting the HDMI and also for sound ( tested with HDMI to VGA with sound adapter and HDMI to DVI and USB ssound adapter - and both work fine and are plug and play with the kangaroo automatically detecting and setting them up ) you're a bit higher at around $160+/-

SO overall it might take a couple more generations of chips to have something able to play all of the MAME games but this is closer than the other options so far - If I was building for a fighting machine or wanted newer games I'd still stick to a PC that had the options to upgrade the RAM and add an independent Gpu if the build had the room for one but this will definitely be good for space limited machines that keep the gamelist to slightly less demanding games ( As I mentioned it plays Street Fighter II CE fine but much more demanding and it starts to struggle a bit) and for the price point is definitely worth a look.

[Slippyblade]

Holy crap.  I knew it was small, but actually seeing it, wow.  Interesting when the plugs are almost larger than the comp itself!  Do you think this little guy would be a good machine for general desktop use?  Non gaming, I mean.

[zebidia]

I am using an old 19" NEC Multisync monitor, connected to the Kangaroo through an active HDMI-to-VGA converter. The converter has an audio out jack, which I've plugged my cheap-o Dell speakers into. Works great when it works; When I wake the Kangaroo up after it has gone into sleep mode, the audio no longer works. I have to reboot to recover. I'm not sure if it's a Windows 10 driver issue, or the HDMI converter. I contacted Kangaroo tech support and they have not had any reports of audio problems,, but I didn't ask what most people do for audio, given that the PC has no audio jack.

JDFan: I agree on the need for more memory, and asked the Kangaroo support person about it. (S)he told me that they would be releasing a new model in summer 2016 that addresses this #1 customer request. I'm definitely keeping my eye on it, as more memory would increase my Iove this little thing.

As for using this as an everyday PC, I think it's fine for browsing and text editing, but the following review gives some concrete performance numbers that may enlighten:

http://www.tomsguide.com/us/kangaroo-mobile-desktop,review-3204.html

[JDFan]

Holy crap.  I knew it was small, but actually seeing it, wow.  Interesting when the plugs are almost larger than the comp itself!  Do you think this little guy would be a good machine for general desktop use?  Non gaming, I mean.

Right now I've been using it instead of my regular desktop for surfing the web and light work - the web pages load just a bit slower than my regular desktop but that is probably due to using wireless instead of the lan connection but the thing boots very quickly and works well for everyday tasks - Haven't loaded Office or Photoshop to try them since I already have them on my other system but I'd think it would be fine for most tasks that did not require heavy graphics processing or lots of Memory (the eMMC drive is pretty fast ( ran Crystal Mark 5.0.3 and got seq Q32T1 reads of 151.1 MB/s 4k reads 29.85 MB/s writes of 59.16 and 18.43 and random seq 130.9 read and 53.06 write and 4K reads 14.6 MB/s - 4k writes 12.70 MB/s) so faster than my SD card and normal HDD and a bit but slower than a conventional SSD.

Pretty sure they designed it for everyday use as well as to take on the road for salesmen etc. that do presentations to businesses since you can carry it around easily and plug into a projector or TV on site for your demo etc. and also use it at night hooked up to the Hotel/Motel TV set if you need to finish things up before a presentation. And I can definitely see it being used for that type of thing.

The microSD slot is wired through the PCI-e bus (at least that is what windows reports) and doe go faster than USB 2.o specs so getting a UH1 or UH3 rated microSD is worth the bit more cost oover an older slower card for it. ( my EVO+ reached 70.55 MB/s seq Q32T1 reads and 24.98 writes (it's rated 80/20 according to the spec) so did reach above the USB 2.0 max spec of 60 MB/s.

If what zebidia says is true, I'd probably wait and get the upgraded version when released instead, since the extra couple of GB of RAM would probably help if Multi tasking - but for most single tasks the 2GB works fine so it's still worth the price now - and you never know what else might change. Guess it depends on if you have the $100 sitting around for a new toy to play with.

Personally I went ahead and got one because I wanted to see if I could get used to win10 before the free upgrade cycle is over or if I wanted to just leave my win7 systems alone and this was a fairly cheap way to find out and will be able to be used in an arcade system if/when I finish with testing win10. 

Zibidia - I'm using a cheap ($0.99 shipped from China) USB sound adapter that is connected to the USB port on my Dell monitor (see pic on earlier post) and it has not had any problems with the sound so might be something in the HDMI interface or driver causing the problem - If you can't figure it out you might order one of the USB Sound adapters and try it instead of your HDMI - VGA. 

[zebidia]

I worked around the audio problem by simply disabling system sleep.

JDFan: please allow me to pick your brain for a minute... you seem highly technical-minded:I
I am putting the Kangaroo in my nearly-completed bartop, but it presents me with a functional problem WRT turning the system on and off. In a previous full-size cabinet I built, handling power was a simple as wiring a button to the desktop PC's power connector, and having the PC plugged into the master plug of a smart power bar. All other peripherals (monitor, speakers, marquee lighting, etc) were plugged into the slave plugs, and turned on/off automatically with the PC. But this simple technique appears unworkable with the Kangaroo, for two reasons: I don't want to open the Kangaroo to tie into its on/off switch, and it's almost a certainty its wall wart wouldn't work as a master in the smart power bar. Do you have any ideas how to implement a one-button on/off mechanism in this type of scenario?

Thanks.

[pbj]

Can you get into the bios and see if it has any settings that would turn the system on if power is restored?

Tried jamming in the power button?

[zebidia]

Can you get into the bios and see if it has any settings that would turn the system on if power is restored?

Tried jamming in the power button?

Great idea, pbj. I'll check it out. But it is, perhaps, a bit more complicated with this device. The wall wart plugs into the Kangaroo's battery, and the battery is presumably always providing power (at least while it has a charge). Gonna check bios anyway.

Thanks.

[JDFan]

Can you get into the bios and see if it has any settings that would turn the system on if power is restored?

Tried jamming in the power button?

Great idea, pbj. I'll check it out. But it is, perhaps, a bit more complicated with this device. The wall wart plugs into the Kangaroo's battery, and the battery is presumably always providing power (at least while it has a charge). Gonna check bios anyway.

Thanks.

That's one of the things I haven't figured out yet - Because shutting down merely shuts down but doesn't completely power off (though it isn't using much power from the battery to light the one blue LED that is all that is still drawing power after shut down. What I was thinking is placing metal rod of some sort with a spring so that you can press the end of it and compress the spring and press the on/off button on the Kangaroo to completely shut it down after the rest of the system is turned off at the power strip ( Having everything else turn off immediately when the power plug is turned off isn't a problem) - so to power down you'd have the front end run the windows shut down procedure when you exit from the front end - which would shut down properly and then once it shuts down you press the rod for long enough to turn off the kangaroo and turn off the powerstip (either on the strip itself or the inlet point if using one of the Power Socket Inlet Module Plugs on the back of the bartop.) - Or add a hidden drawer to give access to remove the Kangaroo from the dock like the hot swap HDD docks (which would have the added benefit of being able to be used elsewhere when the bartop was not going to be used for awhile if you purchased a second dock)

Then again the only thing that would still be on if you run windows shut down procedure would be the blue LED ( not sure if the light would go off after awhile or not until the battery fully discharged but even if it stayed on the battery drain from one bulb should be minimal so might not even be something to worry about. - Might be enough to just exit the front end which then shuts down the kangaroo and immediatly shut off the power inlet to shut off everything else (since turning the power inlet off would turn off everything but the Kangaroo would just go to the battery and still shut down windows properly leaving just the one blue light illuminated or just let it go to sleep mode and have everything else connected to the smart strip using the monitor as the Main  - Figure when in sleep mode it probably only uses a few watts of power so wouldn't cost much per year to leave on always (assuming you get the Sound issue resolved)

Guess I need to test running the shut down from windows and then seeing if that blue light shuts off after a bit of time passes or if it stays on until the battery drains. If it is on some sort of timer and then turns off completely it might actually not even need to be worked on and just using another device as the master would work - as that shuts everything off leaving the Kangaroo on battery to finish the shut down and then the blue light shuts off after some time. 

EDIT : Another alternative might be to just not use the kangaroo power adapter at all and instead charge the battery using the 5v micro USB connector on the Kangaroo itself rather than the AC connecting to the dock - Not sure if that would make a difference in what happens after a windows shut down but it might

[JDFan]

Just noticed in the power saving settings it sets itself to sleep when shut down if plugged in and when on battery  by default - switching this to SHUT DOWN instead of sleep gets it to work like a desktop usually does and shuts the Kangaroo off completely rather than leaving the blue light on ( might have to turn both when plugged in and when on battery to shut down as if you shut off power and it goes to battery mode when beginning to shut down not sure which it would do if they are set differently.) 

[zebidia]

Thanks for the ideas and info, all. I think all I am going to do is wire up all the cabinet's accessories (marquee lighting and audio amp) to an ATX power supply (overkill, I know, but I have a few lying around) and have the power supply be the master in a smart power strip to control the monitor. I will also have a separate button to turn the Kangaroo on and off (perhaps just a hole near the back of the cabinet that you can stick your finger through, or maybe even a sprung button that actuates the Kangaroo's power button from outside the cabinet... Perhaps a modded game button.

On a side note, I tried an N64 emulator on the Kangaroo tonight, and it ran every game I threw at without issue. 1280x1024 rez, sound crisp and clear and in sync. Nice! Makes me want to put an UltraStik360 in my cabinet, but alas, I don't have enough digital buttons to fully emulate the N64 controller.

Edit: spelling.

[severdhed]

to those of you who own one of these, any chance of testing out some n64 emulation?  i need something small that will fit inside an n64 case and be able to run games at full speed...this thing looks like it might do the trick.   if you can please test n64 with a few different games in case some run better than others

perfect dark
turok
wcw vs nwo revenge
mario kart
goldeneye
mario64
f-zero
donkey kong

etc

thanks..

[SNAAKE]

is it possible to open this thing?

I bought one too because it looked tempting. just need a way to power it on using an arcade button or something..

[JDFan]

is it possible to open this thing?

I bought one too because it looked tempting. just need a way to power it on using an arcade button or something..

Probably the easiest method would be to mount it to the inside of the arcade and drill a small access hole to place an actual metal rod or similar that would physically press the on/off button on the Kangaroo - rather than trying to get access to the button connections.

If you are set on opening it - there is the small bracket that has air 2 air circulation cut outs on the top end (near the LED light) If you put some tweezers into the air vent that metal piece can be removed by lifting up and sliding it off - then it seems to be able to lift off the top of the case (I could lift the one edge with a pair of tweezers placed where that bracket had been and lift the one corner of the top (the piece with the Kangaroo LOGO imprint) but stopped after getting the one edge up (since I was not sure if anything was connected or if whatever was holding it on would break and didn't want to chance it just to see ! )

EDIT : Interesting - I just looked up the Kangaroo again and they have a couple new ones out that are interesting

1st they released a + version that has 4GB. which would be interesting except it does not come with Windows ( I think the cost for the OS from MS is much higher for devices with more than 2GB. of RAM so they dropped the OS inclusion to keep the price down - but that also takes away part of the reason this was so interesting in the first place (a full windows 10 PC for $99)

2nd the released the PRO model which goes back to the 2GB. and WIn10 OS included but includes a very interesting new Dock which has VGA input - Audio input connector - RJ45 ethernet connector - and a 2nd USB 2.0 connection in addition to the ones the original had ( HDMI, micro SD, USB 2.0 , USB 3.0) and a removeable bottom plate that gives access to a 2.5" HDD connection -- Only bad thing about this one is the $199 price point
( see attached pic)

[southpaw13]

Do you think this video might help to figure out how to open a Kangaroo to get the power button issue solved???



Yes, old thread but I am looking for a small PC solution.