Moonshot!

[vwalbridge]

You also have to think about the Marquee brackets that might cover that shuttle up further.

+1, the top and bottom of that marquee need some "bleed".

[BGoulette]

Valid points.

Token, let me lower the lander a little, then I'll send you a hi res file. Do you want ai, eps, pdf, png, jpg, tif, etc...just let me know! I'll also add printer's marks so you can get a better idea where the bleed ends, etc.

[Token]

Updated artwork.

[vwalbridge]

yep, that's better! Good looking retro marquee.

[reptileink]

Updated artwork.

There you go! It would have been a shame had you got the old one printed up and blocked most of it...lol. Nice work on the artwork as well BGoulette! 

[BGoulette]

Thanks! I hope I can come up with cpo art that sets it off right!

[Token]

Just stumbled upon this today. Might as well put it here. 

Moonlander 3D (Flash game)


Edit -- And a Flash recreation of Lunar Lander by the same programmer.

[vwalbridge]

Wow, I'd forgotten how hard this game was. But fun.

...and that 3D version is very cool but damn near impossible to land when the camera view falls below the topography elevation.

[mgb]

That marquee is freakin' beautiful.

[Token]

Here are a couple pics showing the use of the 42" vertical screen. Remember, this is the equivalent of a 25" 4:3 display whether it is vertically or horizontally displayed. I still need to physically mask off some extra screen space above and below the used portion of the screen.

You can't tell from my poor photos, but the tinted glass sits four inches above the screen.










And a question...

Mag-Stik or Sanwa JLW? I hear people complain about the short throw of the Mag-Stik. Maybe a dumb question, but is there a big difference between these and the much cheaper Zippyys? I see the Zippyy also has a 2-way adjustment on the restrictor.

[scoodidabop]

The vertical 42" LCD looks nice!  Good job.  That cabinet really lends itself to that solution with the steep angle of the screen. Someone else mentioned Retroarch for screen positioning.  My hyperspin accesses MESS for 8 and 16 bit home consoles for the added HLSL effect but CRT Royale in Retroarch is an absolutely incredible shader.  Stunningly similar to a real CRT.

[vwalbridge]

Someone else mentioned Retroarch for screen positioning. 

That was me. Retroarch is fantastic for screen positioning and aspect ratios. Also comes with some unbelievable shaders. You should check out the gameboy shaders.

[Token]

Someone else mentioned Retroarch for screen positioning. 

That was me. Retroarch is fantastic for screen positioning and aspect ratios. Also comes with some unbelievable shaders. You should check out the gameboy shaders.

Alright, you guys got me. I just downloaded a 500MB Retroarch build today. Hopefully later this week I'll have some time to install and mess around with the video options.

I was reluctant to try Retroarch as I've dialed in my Hyperspin/MAME setup, but the temptation of greater CRT simulation got to me. I'll post an update once I get it all figured out.

[Token]

In a world filled with overly busy MAME cabinet art... one man takes a stand for truth, justice, and line-art. His name is BGoulette, and he gets all the credit for this Marquee and Control Panel art!








 

If you are looking for clean retro art, then give BGoulette a ring.


And nothing on the control panel has been printed or cut, so please feel free to offer suggestions.

[BadMouth]

I like the ABORT and STANDBY tags.  I'll probably steal that if I ever get around to building a dedicated shmup cab.

 

[vwalbridge]

Looks great. I really love it when builders do simple art. Less is more when it comes to art IMHO.

'STDBY' looked a little funny to me at first. And was only 2 letters off from spelling it all out. But I see you were trying to keep it symmetrical.

[harveybirdman]

if I ever get around to building a dedicated shmup cab.

 

DO IT!

And nothing on the control panel has been printed or cut, so please feel free to offer suggestions.

Had to look on my phone.... Looks good, not sure how the blue fits in with the scheme, Remind me of the cab color/Tmolidng combo again?  I do like the tags.  BulletReign player buttons will be named "Alpha Wing" and "Bravo Wing," and "Select Flight Plan" on the selction switch, so great minds I guess.

[PL1]

I really like the concept and almost all of the execution.   

Two minor points to consider:

1. Having the "Abort" and "Stdby" buttons on the outside of and close to the "P1" and "P2" buttons makes it more likely to accidently hit Abort when you meant to hit P1.
- Put Abort and Standby where P1 and P2 currently are.
- Put more space between P1/P2 and Abort/Stdby i.e.  P1   (gap)   Abort   Stdby   (gap)   P2

2. Consider labeling P1 and P2 as Start 1 and Start 2 -- think engine start.


Scott

[Token]

I like the ABORT and STANDBY tags.  I'll probably steal that if I ever get around to building a dedicated shmup cab.

 

Yeah, I stole "Analog Tracking" from the recent NASA build. "Abort" is a volcano button on the original lunar lander control panel. It seemed fitting. BGoulette came up with "STDBY."

'STDBY' looked a little funny to me at first. And was only 2 letters off from spelling it all out. But I see you were trying to keep it symmetrical.

Yeah, keeping it symmetrical and brief. You should have seen the attempt to shorten "Analog Control." 

Remind me of the cab color/Tmolidng combo again? 

Black laminate cab. Currently has black t-mold, but I plan on eventually changing the t-mold to yellow/orange to complement the art.

Two minor points to consider:

1. Having the "Abort" and "Stdby" buttons on the outside of and close to the "P1" and "P2" buttons makes it more likely to accidently hit Abort when you meant to hit P1.
- Put Abort and Standby where P1 and P2 currently are.
- Put more space between P1/P2 and Abort/Stdby i.e.  P1   (gap)   Abort   Stdby   (gap)   P2

2. Consider labeling P1 and P2 as Start 1 and Start 2 -- think engine start.

Two good points. We definitely need to space out those buttons. And "Abort" and "STDBY" would be better placed inside.

I'm thinking the start buttons could be labelled "Engine 1" and "Engine 2" above the buttons, and labelled "Start" below. Or vice versa.


Thanks to everybody for the feedback. 

[scoodidabop]

Loving the marquee.  Illustrator?  I need to get good at original art, and fast!

[BGoulette]

Yep, all done in Illustrator. (The text, for example, isn't actually a font: it's hand-drawn lines and curves converted to outlines.)

[vwalbridge]

Where is the side art to go with it?   

[BGoulette]

If Token provides a profile, I can give it a shot...a moonshot!

...I'll show myself out...

[PL1]

I can give it a shot...a moonshot!

That's a cheeky statement.      

"Don't look, Ethyl!" But it was too late. . .


Scott

[harveybirdman]

Just my .02, you've got this total simplistic vibe going which everyone (including me) likes, maybe go with a super simple Universal style striping for the side art.

[vwalbridge]

Just my .02, you've got this total simplistic vibe going which everyone (including me) likes, maybe go with a super simple Universal style striping for the side art.

+1 for sure! Maybe similar to the look of the side of a Taito cab?

[Token]

I had no intention of doing side-art. Now I know you all are right.

But that's down the road a bit. Warrior needs funds badly. Just spent $250 at Ultimarc. And even though BGoulette hasn't asked for a penny I need to make sure he is taken care of in some way.

My goals at this point:
Moonshot playable by Christmas (meaning artwork and controls)
Side art and finishing touches in 2016

Final version of CPO-




You can tell BGoulette knows what he is doing when you zoom in and the lines are this crisp...




Today I'll have Staples print a black and white to-scale version to test on the panel. My local Staples charges about $4 for this. If all is good, it will be off to stpcore for printing on polycarbonate-laminated vinyl (and the marquee printed on translite).

[yotsuya]

Great job Token and BGoulette. Less is definitely more. Well done!

[mgb]

Very nicely done. The artwork on this build is superb.
I like the labeling for each button

[Token]

Post-Thanksgiving Weekend Update

I got ton of work done this weekend.

Art printed in B&W and overlaid as a test
Marquee art revision by BGoulette
Art sent off to stpcore for printing
Controls received from Ultimarc
Test panel made
Joystick heights adjusted
Controls and LEDs installed
Coin door wired
LEDBlinky configured and troubleshot

Details and pictures in the next post.

[Token]

Artwork Test
Before sending the artwork off for printing, I had Staples do a quick B&W print job of both the Marquee and CPO. I am glad that I did! After cutting and scotch-taping it on the cab, it looked like this...



You can see the problem, can't you?



The lunar lander is cut off. So I checked my measurements, and sure enough, I had sent BGoulette the wrong dimensions for the marquee (I think I must have measured it without the retainer in place). BGoulette quickly made a revision to the artwork and it is sent off to stpcore for printing.

Lesson learned-- Always do a mock-up before sending the art for printing! 

Here is where I need the advice of you pros-- When the artwork comes back, how in the world am I going to make a perfectly round cut-out for the trackball? All the other holes have margin for error, due to being covered by the button rings and the joystick dust-washers. But how do you all cut out clean holes for a trackball in poly-laminated vinyl?

Control Panel Mock-Up

I had some spare OSB laying around, so thought I should practice on it. I laid the original CP on top, traced it, cut with a jigsaw, and there it was. Note that I did not recess the trackball mounting plate, as this is just a test.



For anyone who might be getting the wrong idea, let me make something very clear-- You do not want to build a control panel out of OSB! This is great stuff for sub-floors and roof decking, but the inconsistency of the material does not make it at all suited for cabinetry.

Next I dropped in a long-shaft Zippyy I picked up on eBay to check the height. I read somewhere that the suggested height of the exposed shaft should be 1" between the control panel and the balltop. I tried it and didn't like it. Too short for my taste.

So I had to recess the joystick mounting plate in the underside of the CP. And this required taking apart the joys.

Here are the Zippyys-




Broken-down Zippyy-




Routed out 1/8" from the underside of the panel-




I know the serious builders make jigs for this sort of thing, but I find a steady hand and a clamped 2x4 does the job just fine. Now if this was on the top of the panel, you probably would want a jig to hit it perfect.




Screw in threaded inserts from the bottom...



Note on the threaded inserts-- This piece of OSB is 5/8" thick. The original CP is 3/4" While the inserts show through from the top of this test panel, they should be hidden below 1/8" of the top on the final panel.

And getting threaded inserts screwed straight into OSB is impossible, which is another reason you'd never use this for a real control panel.





After putting the joys back together--




And at this exact moment in time the DHL courier shows up and delivers my Ultimarc goodies.    Spent the next day drilling holes for buttons and wiring up the Ultimarc Ultimate I/O for controls and LEDs. Will get some pictures of that for the next update.

[vwalbridge]

Here is where I need the advice of you pros-- When the artwork comes back, how in the world am I going to make a perfectly round cut-out for the trackball? All the other holes have margin for error, due to being covered by the button rings and the joystick dust-washers. But how do you all cut out clean holes for a trackball in poly-laminated vinyl?

I've never cut a hole that big in poly-laminated vinyl but I have cut smaller holes by had with a razor. You're right, no matter how careful you are, it ain't gonna be clean and perfect. Unless another builder has a trick up their sleeve, I'd start hunting around for a object with the exact diameter you are looking for. Like a drinking glass or one of these Drafting Circle Template guides

[mgb]

First off let me say,  damn I like this cabinet.
any more full and side pics?

as far as cutting the hole for trackball, be as exact as possible. cut that hole first and center it all on that when laying the cpo on the machine.
use a nice fine exacto knife available from hobby stores.

The polycarbonite stuff cuts easy enough

[Token]

First off let me say,  damn I like this cabinet.
any more full and side pics?

I'll try and get some full pics up tomorrow.

vwalbridge and mgb, thanks for the cutting advice. Here's the plan for that hole as of now:

1) Buy new hobby knife
2) Find object with the exact diameter I need
3) Cut trackball hole first
4) Work slow
5) Take pictures from angles that disguise my mistakes   

[vwalbridge]

5) Take pictures from angles that disguise my mistakes   

I like your style Token. 

[vwalbridge]

Oh, and maybe you will have some excess poly-carbonate material you can practice on first? A little practice could make a world of difference.

Also, I'm imagining doing this myself and just had a thought:

It might be easier to cut AROUND something like a drinking glass or PVC pipe/cylinder than it would be to cut on the inside of something like that drafting guide. Keeping the proper angle and force of the blade seems easier to me on the outside of the object rather than the inside.

Just a thought. Good luck. Hope it comes out nice and clean. 

[vwalbridge]

The Martha Steward Circle Cutter could be worth it. Only a $15 risk.

or...

the OLFA Rotary Circle Cutter looks nice. A $16 risk.

(The OLFA looks legit)

[Token]

the OLFA Rotary Circle Cutter looks nice. A $16 risk.

(The OLFA looks legit)

I like the sound of...

Effortlessly cut perfect circles from 1-1/2" to 8-3/4"

Thanks for the link! From there I just found their more basic version on Amazon. $8.36

[vwalbridge]

Thanks for the link! From there I just found their more basic version on Amazon. $8.36

Even better! This tool looks pretty rad and the price is right. Looking forward to seeing how it works for you.

[yamatetsu]

If I were to do this I'd take a piece of scrap wood, drill out the trackball hole, sandwich the CPO between the CP panel and the scrap piece, clamp it down tight so the CPO cannot move and then cut the CPO using a scalpel.