Author Topic: DK JR restoration! (Read 16390 times)

Cobolisdead · « **on:** July 13, 2015, 06:54:24 pm »

So, I got a lot of four arcade machines dumped into my lap. The first I am going to work on is the Donkey Kong Jr, Serial # 455, in an orange Nintendo cab. The side art is ripped up and faded, so I have new art for that, and I plan on ordering the instruction card, instruction sticker, and coin sticker to make it look nice. The bezel, control panel overlay, and Marquee look great! Overall, this cab is in great shape with only a few dings to the laminate, and the fact that it has a security bar.

I plugged her up and it comes on, but the left side is compacted so you can't see the last inch or so of the left side of the screen. I tried adjusting the monitor and, everywhere that section of the image went, so did the compact section. Is this an issue with the ROMs or an issue with the monitor needing to be recapped? I sadly think that it is the latter, but I am just guessing. Anyone have any thoughts on what to do with this?

Pics coming soon!

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #1 on:** July 13, 2015, 07:07:24 pm »

Here are some pics!

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #2 on:** July 13, 2015, 07:21:59 pm »

Here is the screen. Any ideas on what to do to fix this?

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #3 on:** July 13, 2015, 08:20:19 pm »

Any idea on what the monitor is in that? I can find a model number or even a manufacturer on it. I want to order a cap kit for it and see if that fixes the issue.

yotsuya · « **Reply #4 on:** July 13, 2015, 08:32:25 pm »

Quote from: Cobolisdead on July 13, 2015, 08:20:19 pm

Any idea on what the monitor is in that? I can find a model number or even a manufacturer on it. I want to order a cap kit for it and see if that fixes the issue.

A Sanyo EZ-20, probably.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #5 on:** July 13, 2015, 08:44:17 pm »

It certainly looks like one. I went ahead and ordered the cap kit for it. I need to get a monitor discharge tool as well now that I think about it.

SlammedNiss · « **Reply #6 on:** July 13, 2015, 08:47:02 pm »

Cap kits are cheap enough, so that's where I would start. And yes, DK Jr's came with the Sanyo 20EZ.

PM your address and I'll send you the coin sticker. I have a few extra lying around when I made one for mine.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #7 on:** July 13, 2015, 08:50:08 pm »

Now that Bob Roberts is out of commission for a while, is there anywhere else I can get a discharge tool?

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #8 on:** July 14, 2015, 09:48:12 am »

I went and ordered a cap kit for the monitor, as you guys seem to be right. I saw Tighe's video of him doing a capkit on his DK Jr, and it looks just like mine.

There is a tv repair place I can take it too, and he might be able to fix it. However, I would like to be able to do a Capkit, as I never have done that before.(I am still new to this hobby).

yotsuya · « **Reply #9 on:** July 14, 2015, 12:14:51 pm »

Cap kits are super easy. Just pay attention to what you are doing, and make sure you have all the right equipment. I use a desoldering gun myself, and it has made life super simpler.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #10 on:** July 14, 2015, 12:26:18 pm »

Quote from: SlammedNiss on July 13, 2015, 08:47:02 pm

Cap kits are cheap enough, so that's where I would start. And yes, DK Jr's came with the Sanyo 20EZ.

PM your address and I'll send you the coin sticker. I have a few extra lying around when I made one for mine.

Cool! I definitely need to get replacement artwork for the instruction card and the sticker sets. I already picked up a set of side art for it, and I think I will try to salvage the coin door and mechanisms. I definitely need to pick up some new T-molding though.

The controls I am still looking into.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #11 on:** July 14, 2015, 12:27:28 pm »

Quote from: yotsuya on July 14, 2015, 12:14:51 pm

Cap kits are super easy. Just pay attention to what you are doing, and make sure you have all the right equipment. I use a desoldering gun myself, and it has made life super simpler.

I saw Tighe's video of him doing the same monitor, and he makes it look easy enough. Of course looking easy and being easy are two different things.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #12 on:** July 14, 2015, 10:37:49 pm »

I just capped my 20EZ with a kit from iankellogg.com I did the filter cap as well. Quite happy with his packaging and overall service. Capping is not really hard at all, seems more difficult then it really is. take your time and do some research and you'll be ok.

I'll add your restore thread to the Nintendo cab sticky

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #13 on:** July 15, 2015, 11:28:00 am »

Thanks! I should have the cap kit this Friday, so I might be able to get to it Saturday morning.

Anyone have any tips for removing the old artwork?

Malenko · « **Reply #14 on:** July 15, 2015, 11:37:19 am »

Quote from: Cobolisdead on July 15, 2015, 11:28:00 am

Anyone have any tips for removing the old artwork?

Heat gun, scraper, and patience

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #15 on:** July 15, 2015, 01:14:46 pm »

Any qualms about me using a cheap harbor freight one on it? Or do I need to have a specific kind to avoid damaging the laminate behind it?

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #16 on:** July 15, 2015, 01:20:35 pm »

Not really, just take your time. Also some SimpleGreen and a roll of new flat Nintendo t-moulding will go a long way.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #17 on:** July 15, 2015, 01:22:50 pm »

I have a couple of recomendations for T-Molding, but I saw this on Ebay and was wondering if that would work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220680327356?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I can't tell if it is flat though.

Malenko · « **Reply #18 on:** July 15, 2015, 01:37:20 pm »

I used a cheapo harbor freight heat gun, the heat regulation is ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- on it, so pick a temp lower than you want and it peachy.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #19 on:** July 15, 2015, 02:02:33 pm »

I'm cautious about that eBay moulding. It just looks like white standard stuf, and not the nice flat stuff you really need. I buy from T-moulding.com or MikesArcade.com.

Actualy, you're probably gonna want a few things from the Nintendo parts section of MikesArcade. Like coin mech face kits, and some control panel parts. I'd pick up some tmoulding from him at the same time. Mesure your cabinet to make sure you order the proper stuff.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #20 on:** July 15, 2015, 03:12:03 pm »

T-moulding.com has it in stock, so I will probably just get it there.

Mike has a button set and a new joystick with shaft I will pick up though. That should make the control panel look really nice.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #21 on:** July 15, 2015, 03:19:34 pm »

be sure to keep an eye on the buy sell trade on KLOV as well. Id also check with Rick over on Arcadeskin.com if he has a DK Jr kit. He reverse prints all his plexi bits and it looks Crazy good without the steep price of new old stock parts or silkscreened reproductions if you're on a budget. He specializes in Nintendo cabs as well.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #22 on:** July 21, 2015, 12:54:04 pm »

Ok! New T-molding, Joystick shaft with black ball top, Button set, and instruction cards are on the way! This machine should look pretty awesome once all that is installed! I am going to try to work on the side art tonight.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #23 on:** July 27, 2015, 02:23:12 pm »

Well, that only day that I have had to work on this it thunder stormed all night. However, everything but the instruction cards has come in, and I should have that next week.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #24 on:** July 27, 2015, 11:15:16 pm »

This thread is useless without pictures!!

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #25 on:** July 28, 2015, 08:45:43 am »

lol! I might be able to get some work done on it soon, but I have three other on going projects as well.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #26 on:** August 06, 2015, 12:25:55 pm »

So all the parts are here, but my hauler is in the shop so I am just going to be working on the Control Panels tonight.

I should be able to swap out the Instruction card, Swap out the joystick and buttons, and apply new stickers to the cab.

vwalbridge · « **Reply #27 on:** August 06, 2015, 12:45:45 pm »

I'm watching this one closely. I've got an original DK cab restoration on deck, so I'm counting on you and Chance!

moar pics!

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #28 on:** August 06, 2015, 02:05:03 pm »

Awesome! I will be sure to take and post some pics tonight.

I am holding off on the t-molding and side art until I can get the capkit done. I don't want to risk damaging either of those transporting it.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #29 on:** August 07, 2015, 08:58:20 am »

Well, I got the card and buttons changed out, but I couldn't get the pin out of the joystick. Is there some special trick to that? I ask because the Eclip wouldn't budge, all it would do is spin. No matter what I tried, it just spun. I guess that I should try it off of the panel next time.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #30 on:** August 07, 2015, 11:21:18 am »

Best way to get the eclip out is to start it off with a tiny flat head screwdriver. That or a pair of needle nose should do the trick.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #31 on:** August 07, 2015, 11:25:52 am »

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #32 on:** August 07, 2015, 11:26:56 am »

Helps if you wipe away any grime first as well. Oh and take the clip off slowly, everything is under spring pressure and will just go flying

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #33 on:** August 07, 2015, 12:51:39 pm »

Quote from: ChanceKJ on August 07, 2015, 11:26:56 am

Helps if you wipe away any grime first as well. Oh and take the clip off slowly, everything is under spring pressure and will just go flying

I can just see it now! "My EYE!"

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #34 on:** August 07, 2015, 02:17:50 pm »

Haha!

First time I tried it I was so anxious to start work that I popped the clip, lost it in the carpet, and spent the next few minutes looking for the barrel. $:-\$

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #35 on:** August 17, 2015, 11:46:51 pm »

Some progress pics! New t molding, stickers, and I have removed half of the old side art.

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #36 on:** August 18, 2015, 09:59:56 am »

I was able to get the eclip off by bending it with a wrench. There was literally no space to try to pull it off, which makes me think that it was put on by an operator while it was in route.

I swapped out the joystick, removed and replaced the old t-molding, Put on the coin sticker and the instruction sticker. I also spent most of my time with a scrapper and a heat gun trying to remove the side art. I have half of it done, but it took forever and I still need to go back over it again so I can get a smoother surface for the new side art. I am doing something wrong here? Is it supposed to take this long for such a small piece of side art?

Cobolisdead · « **Reply #37 on:** August 19, 2015, 01:20:05 pm »

So I spent last night trying to take off the other sides art. I get it done, and take my new sideart out, and bam! It is too small! It looks like they scaled it down as it is about 5" shorter and nothing lines up with the old art!

Did DK jr have different size sideart? Or did I just get ripped off on my replacement artwork?

EDIT" Side art, not side arm. Although it did read funnier that way.

DeLuSioNal29 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 19, 2015, 01:30:28 pm »

I may have missed it but where did you get your artwork from?

Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.

DeLuSioNaL29

vwalbridge · « **Reply #39 on:** August 19, 2015, 01:34:00 pm »

Quote from: DeLuSioNal29 on August 19, 2015, 01:30:28 pm

Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.

DeLuSioNaL29

That's pretty cool. I didn't know there were guys out there doing alternate VS artwork. Good to know.


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