Ami jal 200 cancel pin. Problem

[jukeboxdeano215]

I have a ami jal 200 the B side of the record want cancel..or the inside row  pins the A side cancels fine(outside row pins)...I have the operators manual. The trouble shooters guide says to check the slip ring  wipers which I have done adjusted and still have same problem . It also says it can be a open circuit in cam switchs or to solenoid 1 or 2 ...which is where I'm having trouble not sure on how to check the circuit .any advice would be appreciated. ..thanks   

[lilshawn]

if you have a whole side that is not operating properly i'd check the ground for that side. sounds like it's open.

[jukeboxdeano215]

if you have a whole side that is not operating properly i'd check the ground for that side. sounds like it's open.

Thanks. ..I've traced the wiring and it all seems ok using a continuity tester ...not real experienced at reading schematics when you cross wire it to the other side the circuit works ....like that side isnt getting power when it should to cancel the pin....can you tell me how to search for a open circuit?

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[lilshawn]

while i don't know this machine specifically,

if there is no power pulse, you need to work backwards through the system...the solenoid wires, through the wiper to the cams to find out where the circuit is open.

luckily you have a working side. ground your black lead of your meter and probe the working solenoid and see if there is power there. I'm not sure how they have it switched but often they power the solenoid and just switch the ground to activate.

if this is the case, power up the juke and test if there is power on the working solenoid, then you can check for power on the non-working solenoid. if no power there...there is a power supply issue to the solenoid.

if there is no power on the working solenoid, it's going to be a bit harder to figure out.

in which case, you'll have to use the continuity function of your meter to compare the wiring from the working side to the non-working side. do this with the power off.

the schematic will show you how it's wired up. if you can, post a copy here if it's a pdf or whatever or take a picture and upload it here or to imgur and post the link here. i can take a look at the schematic and let you know where you'll need to keep looking if it's not something obvious.

[jukeboxdeano215]

Trouble shooter says open circuit im just not sure how to check it ...its the reset solenoid 1 and 2 I think its solenoid 2 thats for the inner pins ....

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[jukeboxdeano215]

Schematic

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[lilshawn]

eeek

I can't see anything...the resolution is too low.

where did you download it from? i'll try and snag it directly

[jukeboxdeano215]

I have it on my phone I got it on line as a download I just screen shot it let me try taken a picture of it where I printed it

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[jukeboxdeano215]

I dont know if thats any better

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[jukeboxdeano215]

 https://www.dropbox.com/s/z7wjd1a6nawvi2a/Rowe_AMI_Model_L_JAL-JEL_1963_L%20%281%29.pdf?dl=0

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[ed12]

page 14 explains where cancel coil is
behind credit unit


ed

[lilshawn]

i downloaded the PDF, it's probably just about as bad as the original picures you posted.

but it appears reset2 solenoid runs through the "left side" switch check to make sure the switch has continuity through the N.C. and "com" tab and is open circuit through the N.O. and "com" tabs. when the switch is pressed down, the contact pattern should be reversed (N.C. should be open circuit and N.O. Should be closed circuit)

it can't hurt to check the other "stopping switch" as well. it should read the same as the other when opened and closed.

these switches need to operate correctly in both open and closed positions as they are relying on the switch to pass power through when closed to operate another part of the circuit.

there also appears to be a terminal strip someplace that everything attaches to before it heads to the circuit wheel. this could be a source of a problem. make sure everything is soldered onto the tabs good and solid. you should have 2 wires on 2 of the tabs and 3 on the other. unfortunately i can't read what the wire colors are. brown? and orange and maybe green if you are missing a wire it may have broken off or got tucked behind some other wires.

[jukeboxdeano215]

I check the micro switch that connects to rs2....when checking continuity on the switch you have continuity on one side N.C side and not on the other   thats when switch is not pushed in .When you push switch in you have continuity on both sides. N.C and N.O....when switch is removed from circuit it works correctly when switch is pushed one work and one cuts off ...?

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[lilshawn]

yes, one tab is N.C. which stands for "Normally Closed"

the other contact is N.O which stands for "Normally Closed"

the other is a common tab between the terminal tabs

these are the states of the contacts inside when the button is sitting not being pressed.

when you press the button, they go opposite. the normally closed goes open and the normally open closes.

you should test the switch no in circuit as some of the loops in the wiring can cause it to read like it's closed when it should be open.

[jukeboxdeano215]

Checking the entire circuit with a continuity tester having trouble finding where the circuit is open ...question to you guys who know more about these things ...why on some of the connections I get a short beep and not continuous sound like the others? I am checking the circuit ..in different spots in the carriage cycle so the cam switches are making and breaking at the times they should be...when checking that circuit

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[lilshawn]

Depending on your meter just a short beep could be an indication that there is continuity... But not 100%...like there is some resistance.  You will have to look at the reading that is displayed on the meter. Ideally a closed circuit should be zero ohms... But it will always have a tiny bit however immeasurable it may be. If it's high enough for instance if the wire is broken inside or burned internally...it may emit a short beep informing you it has a reading... But it's not zero.

[jukeboxdeano215]

Ok thanks

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