I'm going with this to mount my Seimitsu LS32

[s_busby_uk]

Just want to check this sounds good as a method for fitting a Seimitsu LS32:



My CP is 18mm thick MDF and the top layer will be a 3mm thick piece of acrylic/perspex/whatever (haven't decided on materials).

MY only concern is if there will be enough room to wire the contacts on the underside of the joysticks.

[Benzinbruder]

Well, how exactly do you want to mount it? 
From the top?

You also might want to consider this:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130690.msg1345990.html#msg1345990

[s_busby_uk]

I'll be using inserts and screwing from top. Although really I could probably just use bolts all the way through seeing as they'll be hidden anyway. But essentially the top of the stepped mounting plate will be flush with the top of the CP/bottom of the acrylic.

The post you linked to looks good but I'm worried about allowing for enough of the shaft to be exposed (supposed to be 23-24mm for this joystick apparently) and in order to get that I'd have to route out quite a bit, which I'm worried will leave the wood a bit too flimsy. Also it apepars to use a special-made plate underneath to secure it in - I can't get that made easily so I'd have to use screws, at which point they'd be showing.

[Benzinbruder]

Since you'd fill up the routed part with excess MDF (?) you'd probably not have to be concerned with the section getting flimsy at all.

But even if you prefer to screw it in from the top, I wouldn't worry about not having enough space for the wiring. Or am I missing something here? 
Maybe a rough sketch would help to get me / us an idea what you are planning to do!

[s_busby_uk]

I'm not at home to take a picture, but essentially I think - using some rough measurements - that given the thickness of my CP and the depth I intend mount the joystick, the connections on the joystick will more or less touch the underneath of the CP, meaning I may need to route out some space underneath as well.

OR I could just mount the joystick deeper into the CP from teh top so that the connections don't touch the CP underneath, but then the length of shaft protruding gets smaller and thus further away from optimal length, at which point all this fuss over making sure it's the right length becomes a bit meaningless (although actually for the sake of 1-2mm it's may not be worth the added effort of extra routing (i'm an amateur)).

[Benzinbruder]

Sorry, I'm not getting it.
Yep, NOW I think I'm getting it.

Looks like you'll need some more space. At least according to the attached diagram by arcadeshop.de.
You'll have to route some space (on the top) anyway if you want the mounting plate flush with the rest of the MDF, wont you?

[s_busby_uk]

Sorry, I'm not getting it.
Yep, NOW I think I'm getting it.

Looks like you'll need some more space. At least according to the attached diagram by arcadeshop.de.
You'll have to route some space (on the top) anyway if you want the mounting plate flush with the rest of the MDF, wont you?

Excellent diagram!

Yeah I will be routing down from the top anyway but I still think it will be tight if I just route to the depth of the plate. May need to go an extra mm or two to give enough clearance...

[Benzinbruder]

Excellent diagram!

Yeah I will be routing down from the top anyway but I still think it will be tight if I just route to the depth of the plate. May need to go an extra mm or two to give enough clearance...

Either this or you route some extra space for the connectors on the bottom of you CP!
This way you could keep the mounting plate flush with the rest of the CP on the top side.

[PL1]

Check out this post for a shallow top-mount method that works great and makes it easy to put a smooth finish on top.

The specific base shown is the Import Flight Stick from Paradise which is prety much the same size/dimensions as the LS-32/Zippyy.






Scott

[s_busby_uk]

Excellent diagram!

Yeah I will be routing down from the top anyway but I still think it will be tight if I just route to the depth of the plate. May need to go an extra mm or two to give enough clearance...

Either this or you route some extra space for the connectors on the bottom of you CP!
This way you could keep the mounting plate flush with the rest of the CP on the top side.

Yeah that's the most elegant solution I think. I'm really trying to avoid having to set up too much in the way of router templates though because I'm running out of wood and I've already spent loads on various bits and bobs for this thing! Will have a think about it later.

Ultimately my laziness tends to lose out to my perfectionism though (thank god)...