I'm getting ready to add a trackball to my PC, and I have some concerns.

[The cranky hermit]

The first and biggest concern I have is cutting through the MDF. I do not have access to a jigsaw. The only power tools I have access to are a drill (mine) and table saw (my neighbor's). Are there any hand tools that are really good for cutting through MDF? I know it's possible; because I cut out a chunk for my Ms Pacman/Galaga 4-way with a small saw. But it was a real pain in the ass, and I'm hoping there's a better hand tool.

Second, should I get an Optipac or a trackball with a built in USB/PS2 encoder? I'm going to eventually add a spinner, and I'd like to avoid having too many cords coming out of my CP, so it looks like the Optipac is the better choice, but I need to know if there are other factors to consider.

Third, what kind of trackball should I get? My budget is around $150, including everything necessary to mount and interface the trackball. This will cover a Happ 3", Optipac, and mounting plate. But is that the best trackball I can get? Also, are there any differences aside from asthetics between the different colors, translucent balls, and solid balls?

I think that's everything I need to know.

[Donger]

You can obtain a PS2/USB interface for your Oscar Spinner for only 9 bucks.  So if cost is a concern, it would be cheaper to obtain the controls with separate interfaces rather than purchasing the Optipac ($40).   However, since you already stated that you don't like the additional wires, go for the Optipac.

I purchased a Betson 3" High Lip (aka Golden Tee), and it feels great.  However, I haven't seen an easy way to mount the thing other than cutting a huge hole and finding some way to support the box enclosure from the bottom.

As far as your other questions go, other people can answer far better than I can.  Urebelscum should write a FAQ or something, he always answers these questions

While we're here, has the community decided on a 'consensus' best way to mount the Betson High Lip?  I'd like to have no visible plate or bolts, if possible.  I also have the 1/16 Lexan on top.


Donger

[The cranky hermit]

However, I haven't seen an easy way to mount the thing other than cutting a huge hole and finding some way to support the box enclosure from the bottom.

My plan was to do something like that. Bob Roberts sells mounting plates. I'm just not sure how I'm going to make the huge whole.

While we're here, has the community decided on a 'consensus' best way to mount the Betson High Lip?  I'd like to have no visible plate or bolts, if possible.  I also have the 1/16 Lexan on top.

That reminds me; I'm not using any kind of overlay, and I don't care what it looks like in the end. So I don't need to worry about cutting through anything but the MDF.

[rdagger]

Try to find someone who can let you borrow a jigsaw.

Happ is having a sale on the Golden Tee trackball.

I've been trying to find ways to mount a trackball without a plate.   I have not come up with anything better than cutting a big hole and mounting it to the Lexan with a wood support underneath.

[Wienerdog]

A hole saw or a Forstner bit in your drill seems like the best option to me.  If you have a Harbor Freight store near you, they have a hole saw set that has a large diameter bit in it.

If you go this route, use a slow speed and drill a pilot hole first.

Just my thoughts, ruff.

[Raider]

If you can't find a loner jigsaw, router, whatever, might want to try calling an equipment rental company out of the phonebook. I used to think they only handled big equipment but all the ones I've been to had small power tools they rented out as well.

Downside is they will probably ask for a pricey deposit, but the actual rental should be really cheap.... And as long as you bring it back in one piece and on time you'll get your deposit back.

[mahuti]

I cut through my mdf control panel with my Dremel with router attachment. Came in handy for recessing the mounting plate too.

If you don't wanna buy a full-fledged router, get a Dremel with router attachment. Probably end up costing 40-60$ less than a router, and about 20-30$ more than a jigsaw.... once you have one, you will be amazed at how handy they can be.

[u_rebelscum]

The first and biggest concern I have is cutting through the MDF.

If you don't want to buy a jig saw or router, there are the roto-zip and dremel.  A little checker are drill bits for normal drills that can be used to cut.  3/4" might be a little on the thick side for them, since they aren't as good as the roto-zip or dremels that are made to do this.  You could also drill holes in a line with normal bits, but that's not that easy either.

Note that you can cover the hole for the TB case, which would mean the edges don't need to be clean.  The mounting plate is the easiest surest way to do this.

Second, should I get an Optipac or a trackball with a built in USB/PS2 encoder? I'm going to eventually add a spinner

I'd go optipac in your case.  I little more in price, but easier on the wiring and connecting to the PC.  If you run windows & windows mame, I suggest the USB version.

Third, what kind of trackball should I get? My budget is around $150, including everything necessary to mount and interface the trackball. This will cover a Happ 3", Optipac, and mounting plate. But is that the best trackball I can get? Also, are there any differences aside from asthetics between the different colors, translucent balls, and solid balls?

Between my happs, betson, and wico 3" TBs, I like the happs high ligh (aka golden tee) TB the best, but would be happy with any of them.   Order of likes:
1) Happs highlip: longest spin, loudest sound, smallest case (for a smaller cut out hole).  
2) Betson: second longest spin, biggest case
3) Wico: shortest spin, same size as betson case except the cut corners are cut more.
4) Happs highball: same as highlip, except the ball is too high for my style of play.  I knock the ball off the rollers too much, and the ball is too verticle were I hit it my hand gets hurt.  Inside of case scratched my black ball pretty badly before I sanded it (the case); probably caused by my knocking the ball off the rollers so much, or maybe that I bought the highball parts individually instead of as a complete TB.


Solid color balls are heavier than the translucent.  I think the perfectly clear one is even lighter than the translucent.  The different weights will change the spin time (heavier=longer), ease of start/stop/change direction (lighter=easier), and maybe how well it "sits" on the rollers (lighter=easier to come off or slide on roller?).

Clear stratches the easiest.  Not sure about ease of scratching of the translucent, but I think scratches would show more on the trans than the solids.  (All I have are solids)

As far as your other questions go, other people can answer far better than I can.

They look good to me.

Urebelscum should write a FAQ or something, he always answers these questions

I have been meaning to do a full review since forever, but never have gotten past the primary testing of the first TB.  

While we're here, has the community decided on a 'consensus' best way to mount the Betson High Lip?  I'd like to have no visible plate or bolts, if possible.  I also have the 1/16 Lexan on top.

High Lip & 1/16" lexan, I think (but never tried) I'd get happs mounting kit, zinc (the one with posts stuck on the bottom so no bolt on top), and 1.5 mm (or 2 mm or 1/16") laminate (include any designs on it, or fake mood grain if you want that look for the whole top of the CP).  I'd route 1/16" of the wood for the plate to be level with the rest of the CP.  Cut square hole for the TB case to fit on the plate.  Place plate on wood, laminate over wood and plate.  Carfully drill 3" hole in laminate, using in place plate hole as guide.  Lexan over laminate, and again, carefully drilling 3" hole in lexan using plate and laminate hole as guide.

Problems: can't remove plate without removing laminate, costly.
Pluses: plate covered, no bolts, lip basically even with top of lexan (within 0.5 mm)

I'm planning on doing the above, except no lexan.  I'll need to shim between the plate and the TB to drop the lip the ~1.5mm (~1/16") it would be above the laminate without the shim  (durring testing, nylon washers seem to work fine).

[IceCold]

With all you're going to spend on this project, I don't see why you wouldn't just pick up a jigsaw.  There are jigsaws at Home Depot for $20.  Ask for it for Christmas or something.

[rdagger]

Here's a cheap jigsaw alternative.  With a little patience, you could use a keyhole saw.  They are selling them on Yahoo shopping for under $2.

[Wienerdog]

Here's a cheap jigsaw alternative.  With a little patience, you could use a keyhole saw.  They are selling them on Yahoo shopping for under $2.

Okay, I would like to reiterate my opinion.  
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36222

To get that set for 6.49, click on "Order from Printed Catalog" in the left nav bar.  Enter quantiy 1, item 36222-0vga.  Click add to order and it will move to your cart for 6.49.  It's not a great quality saw, but you're not cutting many holes.  That will cost you a little over $15.  I have that set if you have any questions, I picked it up instore.  Check your area to see if you have a local Harbor Freight.

[grafixmonkey]

The first and biggest concern I have is cutting through the MDF. I do not have access to a jigsaw. The only power tools I have access to are a drill (mine) and table saw (my neighbor's). Are there any hand tools that are really good for cutting through MDF?

Shotgun?    

[aricade]

The first and biggest concern I have is cutting through the MDF. I do not have access to a jigsaw. The only power tools I have access to are a drill (mine) and table saw (my neighbor's). Are there any hand tools that are really good for cutting through MDF? I know it's possible; because I cut out a chunk for my Ms Pacman/Galaga 4-way with a small saw. But it was a real pain in the ass, and I'm hoping there's a better hand tool.

I think someon mentioned this before for routing.  It really stuck with me...  A really big laser beam,  preferebly if you can get your hands  on the death star.  You could then also have the ability to destroy small planets!  This is a plus.  As for cost: well the emporer seemed to get it built rather quickly, on time and under budget, TWICE!! Although  it was destroyed both times, Due to major design flaw! With a bit of re-engineering, I think it's doable!

Else for those who are unable to build there own death star, try a jigsaw, they are pretty cheap these days.  And if you get a really long extension cord, you may also be able to destroy really really small planet, very very very slowly....

Good luck

[Stingray]

I agree that a jigsaw is really a must have tool, but also agree that if you can get ahold of a Death Star that would be the route to go as far as putting holes in things is concerned.

-S