Suggestions for my shopping list

[MydknyteStyrm]

Hi everyone,

I am at the stage where I am pricing out the materials and parts needed for my arcade. Below is the list I have compiled so far, and I would love suggestions on things I may be missing, or things that would have better alternatives to the items I chose. The list is broken down by supplier, and what I already have.

What I Already Have
Dell XPS 630i with Vista
Insignia 32" LCD Flatscreen
2 Ultimarc Aimtrak Guns (Blue & Red)
SteelSeries SRW1 Wheel
Hyperspin running Mame, Daphne, Singe, Demul, Supermodel, Model2, Steam, PC, Atari, Nes, SNES, N64 and Future Pinball
Plenty of room in my workshop
A very understanding wife

The Stuff I Need To Get

::Ultimarc::
4 Ultimarc 360 Oval joysticks (since I want all of the sticks to look the same)
40 Classic RGB LED Pushbuttons
IPAC 4 Interface (4 player cabinet)
OptiPac Interface (For 1 trackball and 1 spinner)
SpinTrak Rotary Control
SpinTrak Knob
SpinTrak Flywheel (large)
PAC LED 64 Controller (for LED lights in Buttons)
Marquee Illumination Kit

::Twisted Quarter::
3/4" Light Blue T-Molding
2 Coin doors without mechs (for 4 player cabinet)

::Groovy Game Gear::
Electric Ice-T Arcade Trackball
T-Molding slot cutter 1/16"

::Lowes::
3/4 MDF Sheets 4'x8'

::Home Depot::
Optix Plexiglass Sheets for control panel and bezel cover


Extra things like screws, bolts, mounts, caster wheels, etc are miscellaneous items I will get at Home Depot.
Also attached are three shots I designed in Sketchup, to give you an idea of what I am looking to achieve.

Thank you all for your help and input!

[keilmillerjr]

Not sure what your time frame is, but check out the howler arcade controller. It has all functions of your 3 controller boards combined into one board. Ships March 2014.

I'd search ebay for a deal on a real 4-player coin door. You can always just leave the lower door unlocked or some thing so players can retrieve their coins, use a coin button, or rig the reject coins to simulate a coin drop.

http://www.wolfwareeng.com/

[MydknyteStyrm]

Thanks for the tip! The question is, if the Howler only uses 26 buttons, and I planned on 36 buttons, would I be able to use an IPAC for additional buttons? I'm assuming it shouldn't e a problem.

Another question I have for the board is USB ports. Most of the controllers and boards I want are USB based, so I assume I would need powered hubs. Is there a limit on how many USB hubs a computer can handle?


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[PL1]

Two things to strongly consider adding to your GGG order: PCB Standoffs and Joystick Mounting Kits.   


Scott

[MydknyteStyrm]

Thanks Scott. I read somewhere that bolts through the MDF are sturdier than mounting underneath. I would imagine that after repeated use over time the MDF would start to wear and rip out the screws underneath, as opposed to carriage bolts through from above. Thoughts?



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[PL1]

I read somewhere that bolts through the MDF are sturdier than mounting underneath. I would imagine that after repeated use over time the MDF would start to wear and rip out the screws underneath, as opposed to carriage bolts through from above. Thoughts?

Bolts are sturdier, but how much genuine abuse are you planning on inflicting on this cab?

If you're planning on dragging it around by the joystick or slamming the stick so hard that you bend the shaft, go with the carriage bolts.

If you don't have kids that might use a joystick as a climbing handle or don't want carriage bolts interrupting your CP art, the GGG inserts are a great choice.

The inserts have very flat/wide teeth that dig in securely as long as you do not overtighten the inserts or attempt to back them out and retighten them.

Wood screws in MDF will eventually cause the problem you describe and machine screws are even worse, lacking the surface area to get a solid grip without stripping out.

With properly installed inserts, you can remove/replace the joysticks as desired without breaking down/stripping out the MDF.

Another option is using t-nuts (a.k.a. tee-nuts) flush-mounted on the top of the panel.

They're about as strong as carriage bolts, and require some work to get a smooth finish on the CP for applying adhesive vinyl.


Scott

[MydknyteStyrm]

Scott,

Thanks for the tips. I totally get the idea of not having bolts on my CP, and although I am not one to beat the crap out of a joystick, other people who might use my arcade at a party are not as finessed. I do like the idea of the T-Nuts. And I assume all joysticks are relatively similar in their placement of screw holes?

As far as the CP brackets, I wasn't planning on taking apart the computer. I was going to remove the door, as well as the CD drives, and leave it barebones, but it seems more trouble that its worth to completely take out the shell of the computer. Is that standard to remove the Mobo from the chassis?

[BlueGhost]

If your using U360 would you need an IPac?

My understanding is that each 360 has a built in usb interface and 8 buttons + another 7 shifted buttons.  As long as you aren't dependent on having a keyboard interface.

[MydknyteStyrm]

Good point. I assume I would need the ipac for the admin buttons though? Perhaps I wouldn't need the IPAC4, but rather a smaller version.

[BlueGhost]

If you need keyboard based admin buttons you can use Joy2Key or something similar to convert input.  That or one of the smaller encoders just for admin function.

[PL1]

I assume all joysticks are relatively similar in their placement of screw holes?

Some are simlar, but not all are the same.

You will need to find a template/measurements for your specific joystick.

As far as the CP brackets, I wasn't planning on taking apart the computer. I was going to remove the door, as well as the CD drives, and leave it barebones, but it seems more trouble that its worth to completely take out the shell of the computer. Is that standard to remove the Mobo from the chassis?

I use the PCB holders for mounting the encoder. (IPac, KADE, etc.)

It's a question of space and personal preference as to whether or not to decase the computer.   

I assume I would need the ipac for the admin buttons though? Perhaps I wouldn't need the IPAC4, but rather a smaller version.

Whether or not you need a separate encoder depends on how you configure the emulators/FE and/or JoytoKey/xpadder software.   

If you are looking for an encoder for admin buttons, the easiest/least expensive option is the 20-input KADE.

You can save even more if you can solder wires to the AVR yourself and use the KADE Loader program. (KADE is an open-source/open-hardware project.  )


Scott

[keilmillerjr]

Thanks for the tip! The question is, if the Howler only uses 26 buttons, and I planned on 36 buttons, would I be able to use an IPAC for additional buttons? I'm assuming it shouldn't e a problem.

Another question I have for the board is USB ports. Most of the controllers and boards I want are USB based, so I assume I would need powered hubs. Is there a limit on how many USB hubs a computer can handle?


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Holy s h i t! Why so many buttons?

[MydknyteStyrm]

Actually I miscounted. I need 37 buttons based on my CP design.

5 admin buttons (Esc, Pause, Genre (for Hyperspin), F2 service, and an extra just in case I need something)
4 Coin buttons
4 Start buttons
6 Buttons for P1
6 Buttons for P2
4 Buttons for P3
4 Buttons for P4
2 Flipper buttons for VP and Future Pinball (on side of CP)
2 Nudge buttons for pinball

And now that I think of it, I need a plunger button for the pinball games as well.

So that totals 38 buttons.

[yotsuya]

Why not get your loved one a Michael Kors handbag, while you're at it? 

[PL1]

There is some overlap between MAME and Visual Pinball/Future Pinball -- special wiring trick at the bottom.



You can isolate the Upper Flipper/MagnaSave inputs (blue above) by using diodes like the diagram below.




Scott

[MydknyteStyrm]

Im a bit confused. Basically what this chart means is that I can use two buttons on one lead on my ipac?

[mgb]

When counting inputs for buttons, remember that not every button needs its
own input. In your case, the flipper buttons can be paralleled off player buttons as they
will not be used at the same time.

For stick mounting, I'm a firm believer in using carriage bolts as opposed to blind mounts.
And they don't look bad. As a matter of fact, they're more arcade authentic.
  Remember also that all stick bolt patterns are not the same.
Basically you have the so called American pattern which is what the
Happ sticks, U360s and Sanwa Jlws use
And then you have the smaller Japanese pattern which the
Sanwa JLFs, Seimitsus and Zippyys use.

Also remember, as has been hot topic here lately, to properly orient
Your player 3 & 4 sticks so up is up. 

[PL1]

Im a bit confused. Basically what this chart means is that I can use two buttons on one lead on my ipac?

Yes, the MAME keyboard default for Player 1 Button 4 is left shift, same as Left Lower Flipper.

By wiring the MAME button "backwards" like the first diagram shows, you can press either button to get the same output from the encoder.


Scott

[MydknyteStyrm]

Makes sense. Thanks!

My next question is a analog flight stick. I suppose I won't need one because of the Ultrastik's capability to change from 2-4-8-49 and analog. Or should I have a dedicated stick?


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[keilmillerjr]

Actually I miscounted. I need 37 buttons based on my CP design.

5 admin buttons (Esc, Pause, Genre (for Hyperspin), F2 service, and an extra just in case I need something)
4 Coin buttons
4 Start buttons
6 Buttons for P1
6 Buttons for P2
4 Buttons for P3
4 Buttons for P4
2 Flipper buttons for VP and Future Pinball (on side of CP)
2 Nudge buttons for pinball

And now that I think of it, I need a plunger button for the pinball games as well.

So that totals 38 buttons.

Gotcha. I didn't realize you were doing pinball as well.

Genre could be one of the player 1 action buttons. Mame f2 service is not a normal gameplay action. It's an administrative function, and should be used with a keyboard you connect when necessary. Just my idea. Less buttons is more in my opinion. :p

[MydknyteStyrm]

I thought about making the Genre and such part of the player buttons, but I want to keep it user friendly. I might not always be standing next to someone playing my arcade. I thought about leaving the F2 on the keyboard, but I'm still flipping the coin on having a keyboard in my arcade. It seems like a good idea, but not sure what the pros and cons are.


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[keilmillerjr]

I thought about making the Genre and such part of the player buttons, but I want to keep it user friendly. I might not always be standing next to someone playing my arcade. I thought about leaving the F2 on the keyboard, but I'm still flipping the coin on having a keyboard in my arcade. It seems like a good idea, but not sure what the pros and cons are.


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Just apply a vinyl "label" above the button. Many real arcade machines had labels anyways, so if done right - it would look good. You don't need a keyboard drawer or anything gay crap like that. Just put a USB port on the machine, and plug your keyboard and mouse in when needed. Or get a Bluetooth keyboard. It can live in your closet or where ever until needed. I have two panel mount usb extension cables by clarion. They look awesome, but are a bit expensive. Definitely cheaper solutions out there if you want. http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-CCAUSB-Extension-Cable-Integrated/dp/B001GXQMXE/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1387259451&sr=8-33&keywords=USB+panel+mount

[MydknyteStyrm]

Thanks for the tips so far everyone!

Another question has sprung to mind. I have spent the better part of a week working with Hyperspin and my emulators setting the controls, but then it dawned on me that I would have to redo this all again once it is in the cabinet. I assume most of you with cabs programmed everything once it was built, rather than the other way around?

I don't think I want to build the CP first, but rather build the cabinet, then place everything, then worry about the CP. What would you guys recommend is the best plan of attack to start my build? Thanks!

[PL1]

Configure the FE/emulators before you drill/paint/print your CP/CPO so you have the needed/desired admin controls.

While configuring, use the keystrokes or HID buttons that your encoder will use.

The configuration files won't fall out of the HDD while you're assembling the build. 

Many people have observed that once a build is playable, progress either slows dramatically or stops completely.

Learn from the mistakes of others -- wire the CP last.   


Scott

[MydknyteStyrm]

Makes sense. I think my best plan is to build the entire thing and then program the controls. Right now all the emulators work, but it doesn't make sense to me to configure xpadder for my Logitech joypad a when I'm going to be using actual arcade controls. Thankfully I have enough willpower not to play as I build.


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