Help wiring IEC Socket w/ Rocket Switch

[SgtSlaughter]

Hey guys,

I'm sure this has been discussed here, but I've been searching for a while and haven't found anything.  So I apologize in advance.  I just purchased http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Built-In-SPST-Rocker-Switch-AC-250V-15A-IEC320-C14-Power-Socket-w-Fuse-Holder-/230980607092?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c7845c74&_uhb=1, and I'm looking for a wiring diagram, or an explanation on how to wire my cab.  I was looking at getting this to power my entire cab (PC, Monitor, Speakers) and add a separate switch for the PC power toggle.

The picture is quite small of the back, so I'll describe, it has 3 prongs at the back labeled N, R, L, then for the switch portion I also have 3 prongs (unlabeled by one is a copper color).  I assume the prongs for the switch portion would be for a 12V source to power the LED in the switch.

If anyone has any insight, that would be great!

Thanks!

[BadMouth]

Get one of these to test it before you plug anything in.
http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Outlet-Circuit-Safety-Tester/dp/B0002O1E7W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1381258345&sr=8-8&keywords=outlet+tester
Walmart & Lowes have them cheap too.

EDIT: Mine didn't include a fuse.
I'm using 10A 250v 5x20mm

[BadMouth]

oops, looks like yours has a different switch.
Wire the black across the two terminals that make contact only when the switch is on.

I guess the other terminal is just N for the light and would need to be jumped to the white.
You could skip that part if you don't want the light.
The light runs off the 110v.
I actually disassembled my switch and took the LED out.

[SgtSlaughter]

Thanks so much for the picture & description.  It looks like yours has 4 connectors at the bottom there? Or do you have 2 wires connected to 1 terminal? 

I didn't even think of the possibility that the LED might be annoying, I was going to use this for a bar top (I may have to do the same).

[PL1]

Looks like a similar style to the inlets that Rablack97 used for his bartop and Maximus used on his MVC Revolution build here. (He was posting as Griffindodd at that time.)





It hooks up like this.  NL is the neon lamp in the switch. (some versions use an LED instead)  Pin 2 is ground. (not shown)


Use a multimeter to verify your switch is wired similar before hooking it all up.

IIRC, the unit does not come with fuses, so be sure to order them, too.
- 5mm x 20mm size
- Slow blow
- 125v or 250v -- you can pick fuses that are over-volt (higher voltage needed to arc) and/or under-amp (they will blow more often) compared to the listed rating.

NOTE: Don't get that backward or it'll arc (under-volt fuse) or carry too much current (over-amp fuse) which will fry the circuit instead of protecting it.   

If you don't want the lamp lighting up, don't connect pin 6.   


Scott

[BadMouth]

Thanks so much for the picture & description.  It looks like yours has 4 connectors at the bottom there? Or do you have 2 wires connected to 1 terminal? 

I didn't even think of the possibility that the LED might be annoying, I was going to use this for a bar top (I may have to do the same).

Mine has 4 connectors.  Yours only uses the 3rd to power the LED, so if you don't want the LED, just don't hook that one up (6 in PL1's diagram).

I had to redo the outlet inside my cab in a way that left the back of this exposed, so I covered it with brush on electrical tape.
I'd never used the stuff before, but really like the way it turned out.

[SgtSlaughter]

Thanks so much guys, I`m good to go now.   

[Sarver Systems]

EDIT: Mine didn't include a fuse.
I'm using 10A 250v 5x20mm

Is 10A too much for a typical arcade game? I purchased the same switches as you, and did not get any fuses. I just want to make sure I am getting the proper amperage fuses. Obviously 15A would be too high, since the circuit breaker and wiring are only rated for 15A. Would 8A be OK?

[mgb]

An 8 amp slo blo should be fine.  If it blows, then try a 10

[Sarver Systems]

From what I can see in the above diagram, all of the current flowing to the machine has to run through the bulb in the switch.

Unless I am missing something?

[PL1]

I assume you're talking about these diagrams.





AC Hot (the black wire) comes in from the fuse on 4, goes to one side of the rocker switch on 8, when the rocker switch is closed it goes out of the rocker switch on 7 and to the cabinet (Black) -- this is the main path for current.

Inside the switch, the neon lamp (NL) and current limiting resistor (R) are connected between 7 and 6 which puts it in parallel with the rest of the cabinet's power supply -- the only current going through here is to light the lamp.

The easiest way to wire this is to daisy-chain from 1 to 6 to White for AC Neutral.

Jumper from 4 to 8 and from 7 to Black for AC Hot.

2 is Ground.


Scott

[Sarver Systems]

My switch has the 4 pins as shown in the first pic.

[Sarver Systems]

After looking at the diagram above, and taking a multimeter tot he switch, I can see what's going on inside the switch.

The above diagram is CORRECT.

The 4-pin switch will switch on/off both the hot and neutral wire of the incoming line, which, in mu opinion, is MUCH safer than switching off only the hot side.

Make sure it is wired exactly as shown so the black line is what goes through the fused link.

[PL1]

Glad you got that sorted, but not a big difference safety-wise between the 3 and 4 pin switch models unless your household wiring is seriously messed up.

Can you (or someone else) take a picture of the back of your power inlet assembly (unwired) like Rodney did for the pic above so I can add a 4-pin pic and diagram? (It's on my list of things-to-do for the wiki)


Scott

[Sarver Systems]

[Sarver Systems]

Looking at the pic in the first post (AGAIN), it looks like the switch is wired backwards. It'll still perform as a switch, but the light will be on at all times, since the power is running to that side of the switch before it hits the switch itself.

Unless the OP wanted the light to be on at all times to find the switch in the dark, or to indicate that the circuit is getting power?

[PL1]

Those shots are great.

Thanks for including one with the fuse holder exposed.   

If the switch contacts are numbered:


Is yours wired/working like this?

The lamp is between D and B and when wired like below, it only lights when the switch is closed -- swap wires below from A + B and from C + D for the lamp to be always on.

Outlet neutral (white) goes from 1 to A, when the switch is closed it connects to pin B which goes to the cab.

Hot from the fuse output on 4 goes to C, when the switch is closed it connects to pin D which goes to the cab.




Scott

EDIT: Here are the edited files. LMK if you see any errors.
EDIT2: Fixed 4-pin wiring switch labels and text.

[Sarver Systems]

The lamp is between B and D. If you look closely, you can even see the legs of the lamp sticking out and soldered to the lugs right near the plastic.

[PL1]

Updated pic and text above.

Added pics and supporting text to the wiki Wiring page.

Any more suggestions/improvements?   


Scott

[saturnprime]

Hi all, adding a heated bed to a printer using mains power.

I was following the diagrams here, but seem to be getting no power, does this pic look right?

The leads in my hand are going o the bed.

Light is on, fuse is indeed in.

Sorry the pic is sideways.

[PL1]

Hi all, adding a heated bed to a printer using mains power.

I was following the diagrams here, but seem to be getting no power, does this pic look right?

The leads in my hand are going o the bed.

Light is on, fuse is indeed in.

Stop everything and unplug that IMMEDIATELY!  It's definitely not wired correctly.   

Are you using a heated print bed that runs on AC power (Never heard of that, got a link?) or are those wires leading to a 12VDC power supply that powers the bed?   

How are you going to control the temperature of the bed?  It's usually set in the g-code generated by the slicer program and there's usually a thermistor providing temperature feedback to the control board.


Scott

[Gilrock]

According to the diagram above you don't have it connected right.  Instead 4 going to the bed it should go from 4 to C and then use B and D to get power.  And yes like PL1 says make sure you are powering up something that expects 120VAC.

[saturnprime]

Hi all, heh, yes it's a 110 heater - https://www.robotdigg.com/product/115/300-or-310mm-CR-10-Silicone-Rubber-Heater-Pad

controlled via the thermistor. These MKS boards tend to melt and catch fire, so I've taken that load off the board by doing this directly with a solid state relay - https://www.robotdigg.com/product/589/10A,-40A-DC-AC-or-15A-AC-AC-Solid-state-Relay

which will control the temps as needed.

ok, I'll change up the wires and post back here.

[PL1]

You've got the jumper from 1 to A.

- Disconnect the heating pad leads from 4 and C.

- Add a jumper from 4 to C.

- Connect the AC hot lead for the heating pad to D. (I assume that this lead will pass through the relay you mentioned.)

- Connect the AC neutral lead for the heating pad to B.

There aren't any pics of the 110VAC pad or documentation for wiring it on the site you linked so it's hard to tell which heating pad lead is hot, which is neutral, and which is the thermistor.






Scott