First Cab Project 45% complete. PROBLEMS! In need of some help!

[ArcticCowboy]

Started working on my first cabinet. I'm going in blind, which probably isn't the best idea, but I've never been good for god ideas. Got a 24" tv from the local salvage store, uncased and mounted it. Build the sides and supports for it so far.




I could really use suggestions from people, or someone letting me know if I'm doing anything drastically wrong befre I do a ton of work on this thing 

[ArcticCowboy]

Also added a panel for mounting computer hardware

[Buick455]

looks like a good start.

I have yet to build my cabinet (been using a 2x4 frame mock up forever) but I think you might want to radius those corners if you plan on installing t-molding. From what I have read it doesnt like sharp corners..

[ArcticCowboy]

Huh, hadn't thought of that. I'm looking into it now. As long as its not too costly, I may have to invest in a tool to do that with. Currently the only power tools I have to work with are a circular saw and a drill (bought them for this project.

[Monkeyvoodoo]

A router will be your best friend during the build.
Don't get a cheap model though. It will help you with rounding the edges and getting the groove cut for t-moulding. It will also help with laminate if you go that way.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

A router will be your best friend during the build.
Don't get a cheap model though. It will help you with rounding the edges and getting the groove cut for t-moulding. It will also help with laminate if you go that way.

+1

The router is an essential tool in building an Arcade cab. Well it is if you want it as a good as im sure you do. Right now you seem to have made a good start my friend. But are you sure both sides are an exact copy of each other?. Take a look at any of the builds here and all of them will show you the builders using a flush cutter to copy both sides and get them nice round edges for the T molding. If your not fussed with T molding or it being bang on both sides then carry on. But ask yourself this question. Are you going to be a 100% happy when its finished or are you going to be like I wish I had done this and that. Like Voodoo said, Get yourself a good router, Don't buy a cheap one. I don't expect you to pay 300 pound like I did but you can pick one up from around 80-90 pounds which will be a good solid tool to use. Watch some videos on YouTube about using a router and give it a go. You will thank us in the end. And your build will be so much better for it. Don't forget to ask for help also if you need. There are some super talented people on these boards with years of experience in building and using these tools. Remember were here to help. Good luck mate.

[ArcticCowboy]

Thanks for the advice Voodoo and Alpha,
Just looked at some routers (I love having a home depot 5 min away from my house), and I think this id definitely going to be the next power tool I invest in.
However, what I saw was a little bit more expensive than what I can afford right now. I'll definitely pick one up though, just have to find the right price.
It'll happen before I paint the thing though.

as far as making exact copies of the sides, I cut out one side out based on a build I found on the forum, then outlined the cut-out on the other piece of particleboard. The cuts were cut with a circular saw, following the outline. Not exact, but not too bad considering its my first try. I'm happy with them. With some t molding it'll look good, I think.

[ArcticCowboy]

Good news! Got a used router on eBay for $26. Should be here in a few days

[a1pharm]

Have you made any more progress yet? 

[ArcticCowboy]

Yeah! Buttons for the cp came the other day. Got the pieces all cut and put together. I'll post pics later today

[ArcticCowboy]

Btw. Where is the best place to get a t molding router bit? I've been lookin around and haven't found anything

[a1pharm]

www.groovygamegear.com has them for $20, while amazon.com has them for $19.  You might be able to find one cheaper, but not by too much.

[ArcticCowboy]

finally got some pics loaded on my computer! Theses are older pics, but it'll show the steps I took to get where I am today.

Bought a 24 inch CRT tv from a salvage shop for $20, took the case off and mounted it in a wood frame that will go into the actual cabinet.
I needed the TV to turn on when it was plugged in (the power button is not going to be in an accessible  location) and I was at home depot looking at soldering kits. Wound up meeting a guy who worked there who offered to come over when he got off to show me how to solder with his own kit. So instead of spending $30 on a soldering kit, I spent a couple bucks on beer for us and he spent 5 min soldering the board for me   

[ArcticCowboy]

Got started on the control panel. The player 1, player two and the red and blue buttons arrived in the mail. Still waiting on the joysticks, but I had to get started on it. Found a scale print of an 8 button layout (I'm doing 6, so a little scissor work fixed that up) I had the board cut out, so all I needed was a few quick measurements for borders (which I got wrong.... three times), and then it was just deciding on good placement for the two prints that I had made. Twelve 1 1/8" holes later and I had a decent looking CP!

[ArcticCowboy]

Just a couple more pics of the CP 

[ArcticCowboy]

Alright, so I decided that the front of the CP looks really clunky and just pretty freaking bad. I took off the front part of the CP and replaced the 1/2 Inch boards with some 1/8 flexible stuff (can't remember the name of the board). The bend is pretty hard in some places, but I'm pretty sure it should hold.



Also, I learned that a jigsaw is a terrible tool to make staight, smooth cuts. Especially when you don't have saw-horses or a work table

[ArcticCowboy]

Finally got the screen in! I had to wait till I could find two sober guys to help hold it in place while I drilled the holes. (In a college town, two sober guys are rather hard to come by.) The frame I put the TV in looks like a giant POS, but hopefully once I put a panel over it and cover up those edges, it'll look alot better. Not sure if I should make a bezel or if I can just get away with making a 24 inch hole in some 1/8" board and then putting a sheet of plexiglass over that. I don't know, but I'm getting more and more pumped to get this thing operational.



Also, got an old computer from a shady guy in downtown Toledo. (I checked, it works fine.) The only big pieces of equipment I need to get this thing operational now is a keyboard encoder, some wiring for the buttons and a video card with composite out. Not sure where the best place to look for those is. Wiring at a Home Depot or Lowes, obviously. But I've looked on ebay for an encoder and they look to be about $100 there. Still need to check amazon.

[TheChairmanH2K]

go here http://www.ultimarc.com/store/section.php?xSec=2&xPage=1&jssCart=912fd647f01be90bbed854762ea64135 get an Ipac 2 or 4 based on your needs.  there are also many many other encoders out there such as Kade and Lono that i dont have any experience with but others on the forum do.  no need to spend $100.

[PL1]

The only big pieces of equipment I need to get this thing operational now is a keyboard encoder, some wiring for the buttons and a video card with composite out. Not sure where the best place to look for those is. Wiring at a Home Depot or Lowes, obviously. But I've looked on ebay for an encoder and they look to be about $100 there. Still need to check amazon.

Check out the KADE, I-Pac, or KeyWiz.

For the wiring, get stranded 22 or 24 AWG (NOT SOLID) for use with crimps.

You can also get pre-crimped wires with some of the encoders or from Paradise Arcade Shop. (The daisy chains and 16 wire rainbow packs are my personal favorites)


Scott

[mcseforsale]

Also, don't count out good pawn shops for tools.  Many of them will give you a warrantee.  I've been beating on my router for years and I got a ~$200 router for 20 bux.

AJ

[ArcticCowboy]

didn't post a pic of it, but I got an older router from eBay for $25. Seems to work well. I just need the bit to do the T-Molding

[jmike]

Great job so far ArcticCowboy. 
       can you post some pictures on how you mounted the TV to the cab? I have a similar TV but thought it would be too heavy to mount like that.


Keep up the good work


 

[a1pharm]

Get the Keywiz from www.groovygamegear.com

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_80&products_id=303

It's $36 and you can also by pre-crimped wiring with it for cheap (get 20 or 30 of the crimped wires: its an option with the keywiz)

I think the 1/8" bezel with a 24" diag hole will work fine at hiding that hideous mount, especially if you plan to use a plexi overlay.  The 1/8" wood will ensure the plexi doesn't rest right up against the tube.  After you cut the 24" hole in the 1/8" board, use a 45deg or a rounded router bit to smooth over the sharp edge of the hole, it will give the bezel a "matted" look, which is pro.

Good work so far, enjoy the build.

Cheers!
 

[ArcticCowboy]

Here ya go, jmike

to start with I took the tv and removed the case, unplugged the speakers (don't worry about keeping these in good condition, unless you plan on using them on the cab. I'm not planning on using them so I just threw them out.)

The actual screen is held in with screws drilled into a metal attachment in each corner of the screen. I simply made a frame out of 2x4s and then used the same screws that were in the plastic case to drill into the wood to hold the screen in my frame. The frame is in a picture I already posted, but the screws holding it in look like this:



From there I planned out how I was going to put the frame into the cabinet. I'll be honest with you, but I measured wrong about 4 times before I finally got to where I could put the screen in and still have enough space for the cover plate etc. It looks like crap and its a pain in the ass but on each side of the cabinet I did this:



I pre-drilled the holes and got two guys to hold the screen in place while I screwed it in. (Predrill the holes, otherwise your helpers are going to be whining about how heavy it is while you try and get a screw started.  ) Four screws on top, four on the bottom and two down the sides, repeat on either side and it feels quite solid. MAKE SURE YOUR SCREWS ARE LONG ENOUGH TO MAKE THE TV SECURE, BUT NOT LONG ENOUGH THAT THEY GO INTO THE SCREEN! I came really close to doing that. Luckily I realized what I was doing before I started drilling.

After that you should be good! The back of my mounted screen looks like This:


I know the frame looks like crap, but I think it'll hold and I'll be covering up all the nasty looking spots.

Hope that helps! Keep in mind, this is my first cab, and I am by no means an expert on this.

[ArcticCowboy]

Oh Crap! I missed a screw!

[yotsuya]

Before you go any further, take the monitor out and cut the T-Molding slots.

[ArcticCowboy]

Is there a reason why its a bad idea to cut tmolding slots with the monitor in? That monitor was a pain to get in the first time

[a1pharm]

As long as it's rigid, you don't need to remove it.  Flipping the cab around will be easier with it removed (you'll need to do this when cutting your slots), but it's not absolutely necessary.  I do agree to not add anything else to the cab without first cutting your slots.  I always cut my slots prior to attaching anything to the sides, simply because that is the easiest point to do it.

[ArcticCowboy]

Yeah, its difficult to tip, but I had to do it earlier today to reattach a wheel. So it's doable. I'll probably just cover up the microboard of the TV to keep sawdust off it

[PL1]

Is there a reason why its a bad idea to cut tmolding slots with the monitor in? That monitor was a pain to get in the first time

The MDF dust gets everywhere.

Cover the monitor with plastic+tape, then add a layer of newspaper+tape. (plastic holds a static charge that attracts the dust, newspaper doesn't)


Scott

[ArcticCowboy]

Does anyone know where to get a good 21"x16" bezel? I've tried making my own and it looks like crap.

[PL1]

GOG can do custom sizes for a variety of classic bezels here or print your custom artwork here.


Scott

[ArcticCowboy]

The wiring has begun!



Got the ipac in the mail the other day, along with a video card with composite out and a tmolding router bit.

Unfortunately the drivers for the video card only seem to work on wondows XP and not vista.... weird. So I'm thinking I need to replace my operating system if I can't find a driver that works.

So yeah, I should have everything I need to make the cabinet operational. I just need to work on aesthetics after that. (The cabinet looks like a piece of crap sitting in my living room. But there's definitely progress!

[ArcticCowboy]

Also, heres a pic of the computer I got. I took everything out of the case and just installed the motherboard, power supply and hard drive. I've extended the power button wires, and soldered a couple wires to the TV so I can put a couple buttons on top of the cabinet. I havent found out how to hook both up to one switch, but I can get a second switch if I need to.

[ArcticCowboy]

Alright. I'm stuck and I'm not sure where to go from here. I've posted a video on what the problem is and I'm hoping someone can help me. Basically when the computer is connected to the TV it comes in black and white and the picture is flashing up and down vertically. (Check out the video to actually see it) If anyone has any idea whats going on, or how I can fix it, I would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[jdbailey1206]

I would also get a regular computer monitor to see correctly and change your refresh rate.  If I remember correctly the tv has a lower refresh rate while a computer monitor standard setting should be set at 65 mhz.

[ArcticCowboy]

Tried that. there are a number of refresh rate options listed on my computer. 60, 72, 75, 80, 85, 100, 120. (I think thats all of them). Anything above 80 and the computer monitor would shut off and wouldn't work. None of the refresh rates would make the TV display a steady screen

[CaptainMarvel]

Very much enjoying watching your progress thus far ... keep up the great work !!!


Out of curiosity,  what is the reason for mounting your computer parts onto the peg board rather than keeping them within the case/chassis ??

[ArcticCowboy]

Honestly I'm trying to cut down on weight. Also it'll be easier for me to access the board in case I need to upgrade or make any changes to the computer. In hindsight, I'll probably keep the computer in the case if I wind up making another cabinet. But it seemed like a good idea at the time.

[yotsuya]

Kudos to you for decasing. I like doing it that way myself.

[ArcticCowboy]

Alright! Update time! I haven't done anything huge in these past few weeks. Visually at least. Just tweaking things her and there. The computer is mounted inside the cabinet, started putting the panelling on. Extended the power wires on the television and the computer and wired them to buttons that will be mounted on the top panel.

I've added hinges and a lock to the back panel, a lock and some magnets to keep it from flopping around. The upper back panel doesn't open, but I need to take it off and shave down the sides a bit so it doesn't stick out like it does.

I have 4 120mm fans. Planning on putting two intake fans on the bottom and two.... "outtake?".... fans on the top. I cut the hole for the first fan, and then decided that I should wait till the fan covers arrive before I do any more work

Got a palm sander for $10 at a salvage store, so I'm going to be alot of smoothing going on.

[ArcticCowboy]

Here. Have more pics

[skjerk]

So did you ever get the TV working? If so - what was the solution?

I would call the "outtake" for "exhaust" 

[ArcticCowboy]

Yeah, haven't fixed it, but I think I know whats wrong with it. The lowest screen refresh rate is 60hz, and my TV is probably 30 or 50. I can't bring the computer's refresh rate down unless I have a video card in it. I had a video card with composite out that I bought for $20, but it only works in Dell computers with windows xp (I have vista). Then I got that converter box which didn't do anything for me seeing as the box can't change the refresh rate. So I need a new video card.

[skjerk]

bummer  - probably 50Hz then..... TV's are usually 50Hz or 60Hz.......

[ArcticCowboy]

Yeah , its getting frustrating. I'm working on some other stuff until I find the patience to figure it out

[ArcticCowboy]

So the speakers are (kindof) done... almost. I used some thin black fabric, 2 large rubber rings (used for something in plumbing... pipes probably), some metal ribbon and a few screws.

Sawed a hole to match the size of the rubber ring, and laid the fabric under the rings, and strapped the speakers down over all that. (The rings push the fabric out enough so they lay flush with the outside of the panel).

Still need to get some covers for the speakers, but this will work for now.

[ArcticCowboy]

Also, on another note,  how do you edit the title of a thread?

[Slippyblade]

Go back to the first post you made and click the "modify" button.  That will let you make changes to the post AND the title.

[ArcticCowboy]

Oh ballin! Thanks!

[ArcticCowboy]

Alright, so I've been doing a little work on the cab this past week, finally splurged and got the bezel. Got here today, and I cut it down to size and I think it looks amazing!



But.... There's a major problem!



The bezel is too big... Or tall. I've got the screen mounted just right, any movement up or down is going to throw the whole project off. I can't move the screen back because there's about a 1/4" of space from the back panel and the rear of the television. So from what I can see my options are:
-cut out some small extensions and glue them to the sides of the cabinet so the bezel will fit. This will be cheaper, but it will also not be as solid as a single piece of wood.
-OR I can tear the whole thing apart and resign myself to the fact that I need to g buy more wood and recut the sides. I'm thinking I'd add 2 inches onto the back end of the side panels, and slide the TV back 2 inches, so I can fit the bezel and the eventual piece of plexiglass over the screen.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help!

[Slippyblade]

That kind of plastic is very malleable at reasonably low temperatures.  If you use a hair dryer and heat it s-l-o-w-l-y it will soften up enough to bend and match the shape of the cab.  Practice with some of the bits you trimmed off when sizing the bezel so you don't ruin it.

[kixfan]

You could cut a small hole in the back for the very back of the TV to stick out.   Make or by a small plastic box to cover it like they did on old console TVs.   I like the bezel, where did you get it?

[ArcticCowboy]

Got the bezel from Twisted Quarter. Took me weeks to find one the right size. Had to cut it down to size, but the inside dimensions are perfect

http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200_203&products_id=374

[CraftyMech]

99% sure your CRT TV is 60hz, which is the NTSC standard used in US, Canada, Mexico, and Japan.

50hz is the PAL standard used in Europe, Asia, and Australia.

[a1pharm]

The bezel is too big... Or tall. I've got the screen mounted just right, any movement up or down is going to throw the whole project off. I can't move the screen back because there's about a 1/4" of space from the back panel and the rear of the television. So from what I can see my options are:
-cut out some small extensions and glue them to the sides of the cabinet so the bezel will fit. This will be cheaper, but it will also not be as solid as a single piece of wood.
-OR I can tear the whole thing apart and resign myself to the fact that I need to g buy more wood and recut the sides. I'm thinking I'd add 2 inches onto the back end of the side panels, and slide the TV back 2 inches, so I can fit the bezel and the eventual piece of plexiglass over the screen.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help!

You could tilt the monitor forward (keep the bottom stationary and tilt it forward), this might fix your bezel problem, but it will result in a less than desirable viewing angle.  It seems you are kind of stuck: redo some work, or rig it in a non-ideal fashion.  If I were you, and the only way to make it work was to recut the side panels: I would recut the side panels.

[ArcticCowboy]

Before I destroyed my computer by accidentally lighting it on fire while trying to fix it in a radio shack (long story there....) I messed around with the refresh rate settings and the lowest I could set the computer to was 60hz, so either the TV is less than 60 hz, or theres another problem.

My television is mounted pretty close to vertical anyways, so rotating the screen forward would probably be too much. I think I'm going to go with the suggestion to move the screen back an inch and put a dome on the back panel for the bit that sticks out. That way I won't have to mess with melting the bezel.

Not sure when I'll have time to get that done though, but I'll definitely let you guys know what chaos envelops when I do attempt it. Thanks for the suggestions, guys!

[skjerk]

Your TV is 15KHz, so it won't work without either a graphics-card with TV-out, or by using the Soft15K software.
You should be careful! - feeding a signal different from 15KHz to the TV, might destroy it!

[CraftyMech]

Before I destroyed my computer by accidentally lighting it on fire while trying to fix it in a radio shack (long story there....) I messed around with the refresh rate settings and the lowest I could set the computer to was 60hz, so either the TV is less than 60 hz, or theres another problem.

Your TV is almost certainly 60hz (vertical refresh) so there is another problem. But you can verify 100% by hooking it up to whatever television signal source you have available: cable box, digital receiver, etc. If you get a picture from your receiver equipment then it is definitely 60hz. Also not a bad idea to test the picture anyway, if you have not already seen the TV working.