Author Topic: A lot of noob questions (Read 5925 times)

Sig00 · « **on:** June 14, 2013, 02:21:27 pm »

Hey everyone!

I'll be starting on my first arcade build soon (hopefully sometime this month?), but I have a bunch of questions that I'm unsure about. I currently have the second edition of Project Arcade Build Your Own Arcade which I'm referencing, and plenty of threads on this forum. But I'm still unsure about quite a few things so I was wondering if a few of you could help me out.

The basic layout of my cabinet will be a 2 player control panel hooked up to a 32" LCD TV. All of the buttons will be LED along with the joysticks I will be using. I will have a total of about 26 buttons, 2 joysticks, and a trackball. I may want to add a spinner and possibly a third joystick in later, so I want to make sure that my iPac will be big enough to support that. Next, I will be using two car speakers that I have laying around. If I'm not mistaken I need an amplifier and a separate power supply for this?

1. Which iPac will I need, the iPac 2, or iPac 4? Or is there something better currently out there?

2. Is it possible to hack my computer power supply to power my car stereo speakers?

3. Can I just power all of my LED buttons and LED joysticks and illuminated trackball by using my computer power supply?

4. Where can I find a cheap amplifier for my car speakers that will get the job done?

5. Is there any suggestions on where to buy the wiring I'll need to wire the control panel?

6. Anything else I'm just totally not thinking of?

I'm sure I'll have plenty of more questions soon! Thanks for the help everyone, and I'm sorry for all the questions! I've been researching on my free time between work and life but that never seems to be enough time right?

jdbailey1206 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 14, 2013, 03:10:03 pm »

Sig-

Remember there are no stupid questions. Just the stupidity you'll feel if you didn't ask them and you screwed yourself for not asking.

1) iPac 2 is good for 2 player set ups. While the iPac4 is good for 4 player set ups.

2) http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=118031.0

3) http://www.ultimarc.com/pacled64.html

4) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-2CH-Mini-Audio-Digital-Power-Stereo-Amplifier-AMP-/360668006787?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D360618159630%26ps%3D54

Damn that one has a USB charger. Wish I would have found that one for me.

5) http://www.ultimarc.com/JShopServer/section.php?xSec=2 Make sure you get the right connectors for the buttons you get. I did not. Had to reorder. Good thing my buddy is an electrician. The wrong ones I ordered moved quick.

6) Yes. There will be things that you totally get blindsided by. That's why everyone is here. And remember this is a labor of love. It will take time and don't get aggravated. There are some who will put out a better product than you but if you have patience and perseverance it will all work out. Good luck and check the forums constantly. There is probably someone who had the same problem before you and has solved it.

Lastly, Welcome to the forums!

Brian74 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 14, 2013, 03:42:14 pm »

I still ask tons of questions. I get stuck or fustrated, I just move on to one of my other projects. think about what games you wanna play the most and concentrate on those controls. Ask tons of questions, measure twice cut once and you should be good to go.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Sig00 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 14, 2013, 04:31:45 pm »

Thanks for the help guys!

@jdbailey

1.) I know iPac 2 is good for two players, but I just wasn't sure if it would be able to fit all three joysticks, the spinner, trackball, and all those buttons. If it will then thats awesome!

2.) Thanks, I'll look more into that thread tonight when I have time.

3.) If I'm not planning on controlling the brightness or making any cool effects with the lighting, is it possible to do it without a dedicated LED controller? the PacLED is 60 USD which I'd rather not fork out if possible, as I'm trying to save as much money as possible for college next fall.

4.) That one looks great, it's just an amplifier so I'll still need to either get a dedicated power supply or hack my computer power supply right?

5.) Thanks, I looked at those but wasn't quite sure if that's what I needed.

PL1 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 14, 2013, 05:23:01 pm »

Quote from: Sig00 on June 14, 2013, 04:31:45 pm

1.) I know iPac 2 is good for two players, but I just wasn't sure if it would be able to fit all three joysticks, the spinner, trackball, and all those buttons. If it will then thats awesome!

The IPac won't allow you to connect the spinner and trackball (optical inputs), only the buttons and joysticks. (digital inputs)

Not sure how you came up with 26 buttons, but you can add up the inputs you need:
Each button = 1 input
Each 4-way or 8-way joystick = 4 inputs

3 joysticks = 12 inputs, leaving 20 inputs on an IPac2

Can you be more specific about what you had in mind for the 26 buttons you mentioned in the OP? (sounds a bit excessive)

Quote from: Sig00 on June 14, 2013, 04:31:45 pm

3.) If I'm not planning on controlling the brightness or making any cool effects with the lighting, is it possible to do it without a dedicated LED controller? the PacLED is 60 USD which I'd rather not fork out if possible, as I'm trying to save as much money as possible for college next fall.

Always-on single color LED buttons like these don't require a controller and are easy to wire with simple .25" daisy chains for power and ground. (pic shows only the LED wiring)

Protip: Use 12v LEDs powered by 5v to lower the current draw.

Also check if the LED buttons you're considering are good for player buttons -- I've tried some that ROYALLY SUCK as player buttons, but work perfectly as admin buttons. YMMV.

Scott

greggooch · « **Reply #5 on:** June 14, 2013, 08:21:45 pm »

I use a Mini-Pac that I've maxed out with 2 x 4 way/8 way joysticks, a spinner, a trackball, and 26 buttons: 2 x 6 button Street Fighter layouts, 2 pinball buttons on each side of the cabinet, 2 coin, 1P & 2P, 4 misc menu, and 2 mouse buttons for the trackball. I'm sure I could have gotten away with a few less buttons using the shift key, but I'm happy with it.

http://www.ultimarc.com/minipac.html

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Sig00 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 15, 2013, 12:31:57 am »

@PL1

Thank you for letting me know that the iPac doesn't allow connects for a spinner and trackball, I have no idea how I missed that and that would have been a huge pain.

As for the amount of buttons, greggooch pretty much nailed down what I'll be having.

Thanks for that diagram, that's good to know and I'm glad to be reassured on that.

The quality of buttons, I'll be using can be found here http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/led-pushbuttons/231-green-led-convex-arcade-pushbutton-0855742002313.html, I've heard they are pretty good and I've heard most people prefer the lighter micro switches so I was planning on upgrading to the 20 gram microswitch.

So after what greggooch said it looks like it might be more optimal to go for the minipac, what do you think? I suppose I could just keep it to two joysticks but it looks like everything else would pretty much work.

PL1 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 15, 2013, 01:31:17 am »

You'll find some overlap with the pinball buttons and MAME.

Search my posts containing the word "flipper".

Also consider adding nudge buttons for even more pinball fun.

If you want to add the third joystick and buttons, you could supplement the mini-pac with an AVR encoder like the KADE or use an IPac 4 and buy an optical encoder with the trackball/spinner.

Bad news -- the button you linked is the type I was

about.

Springs on mine are so strong that changing out the microswitches doesn't seem to help. (I tried a blind side-by-side test using the stock switch and a GGG SST.)

I tried to play "Flight of the Hamsters" but it SUCKED for rapid "arm-flapping"! YMMV.

Scott

Sig00 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 15, 2013, 02:08:02 am »

Quote from: PL1 on June 15, 2013, 01:31:17 am

If you want to add the third joystick and buttons, you could supplement the mini-pac with an AVR encoder like the KADE or use an IPac 4 and buy an optical encoder with the trackball/spinner.

To be honest that sounds pretty complicated for me to try to figure out before school starts in two months. I could just scrap the third joystick, leave it at two, the buttons, the trackball, and the spinner and just run off of the minipac I suppose?

Quote from: PL1 on June 15, 2013, 01:31:17 am

Bad news -- the button you linked is the type I was about.

Springs on mine are so strong that changing out the microswitches doesn't seem to help. (I tried a blind side-by-side test using the stock switch and a GGG SST.)

Well

.
I was kind of set on using those buttons, they looked like they had good light distribution and were relatively cheap, plus I was already ordering my joysticks from them so the shipping charge for the buttons was negligible. :/ Hmmm, does anyone else have an opinion on these buttons?

PL1 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 15, 2013, 05:12:28 am »

Quote from: Sig00 on June 15, 2013, 02:08:02 am

Quote from: PL1 on June 15, 2013, 01:31:17 am
If you want to add the third joystick and buttons, you could supplement the mini-pac with an AVR encoder like the KADE or use an IPac 4 and buy an optical encoder with the trackball/spinner.

To be honest that sounds pretty complicated for me to try to figure out before school starts in two months. I could just scrap the third joystick, leave it at two, the buttons, the trackball, and the spinner and just run off of the minipac I suppose?

Don't worry, it's not complicated.

Some trackballs and spinners come with their own encoder or you can use the one in the minipac.

"supplement the mini-pac with an AVR encoder" is just plugging in a second USB encoder and wiring it to the rest of the buttons.

Quote from: Sig00 on June 15, 2013, 02:08:02 am

Quote from: PL1 on June 15, 2013, 01:31:17 am
Bad news -- the button you linked is the type I was about.

Springs on mine are so strong that changing out the microswitches doesn't seem to help. (I tried a blind side-by-side test using the stock switch and a GGG SST.)

Well .
I was kind of set on using those buttons, they looked like they had good light distribution and were relatively cheap, plus I was already ordering my joysticks from them so the shipping charge for the buttons was negligible. :/ Hmmm, does anyone else have an opinion on these buttons?

You might love them.

I just tried playing some more Flight of the Hamsters and the button seems to be working much better now than I remembered.

I think there have been several builds that used them, but I don't remember any complaints.

Little Ms. Pac-Man used the black rimmed buttons that feel about the same and Maximus didn't complain about them IIRC.

Maybe I just got spoiled on GGG's Arcade Prime buttons for player buttons and Ultimarc's Goldleaf buttons for flippers.

Scott

stigzler · « **Reply #10 on:** June 15, 2013, 08:03:16 pm »

Hi Sig,

Still a noob here too and starting my first build.

Like you, looking to incorporate car audio into my cab. I'm gonna use an old car stereo (4 channels @ 50W) and a sub+amp (300W RMS). I'm figuring that's gonna cost around 42Amps, so I made the decision not to run off my PC PSU. Also, I was worried about running current like that through the relatively thin psu wires! Instead purchasing a separate PSU from which to run the sound and also any 12V lighting in the cab (led strips etc). Additional bonus is that car stereos are always connected to the car battery, so when turned off psu, all the settings reverted to factory. Gonna run a signal 12V off the PC PSU which means I can leave the other PSU running (low) to presevre the settings.

Anyways, the psu:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380625508387?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619

I'll probably get shot down at this point with advice against using this!! But hey ho - this hobby is sooooo complicated!

Goods luck with your project

Skivt68 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 16, 2013, 12:08:15 am »

Hey, also an noob here, but I know my way around a PA/auido system. I would recommend going to partsexpress.com and searching "amp". Look through the cap amps section for an amp to mach the wattage of your speakers. I have one of their smaller amps for my diy PC speaker system. You may have to run the power for the amp separate from the arcade/pc psu, which you can do by installing a power strip into your cab. Plug to psu into one outlet on the strip and the amp into another and bingo!, you've got yourself good sound and a seperate psu with only 1 cord to plug into the wall.

stigzler · « **Reply #12 on:** June 17, 2013, 02:50:26 am »

I'm worried I've missed something with my audio setup... Skivt - I may be missing something, but don't car amps run off 12V DC? How would pluging one into 240V AC be possible?

Cheers

05SRT4 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 17, 2013, 05:27:56 am »

Quote from: stigzler on June 17, 2013, 02:50:26 am

I'm worried I've missed something with my audio setup... Skivt - I may be missing something, but don't car amps run off 12V DC? How would pluging one into 240V AC be possible?

Cheers

Most Amps do. I just finished my Bartop and I originally just connected the amp to the PC PSU but there was mad noise. I ended up just using the AC adapter (12v DC) that came with the amp. No extra noise.

jdbailey1206 · « **Reply #14 on:** June 17, 2013, 08:08:10 am »

Sig-

Let me double check when I get home but I will show you what I am using in my cab. They are converters that you can hook up to your PC PSU. Can't remember what they are called off of the top of my head right now.

keilmillerjr · « **Reply #15 on:** June 17, 2013, 09:42:39 am »

Ultimarc's website says how many inputs each ipac has. You want the ipac 2.

I got the Lepai 2020+ amp off eBay. Be sure to get it with the wall power supply. They sell it with and without.

Prowire sells wore in tons of different colors, purchasable by the foot. You would want 22 guage for control wiring. You can color code your ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- to make it easier to diagnose. http://www.prowireusa.com/22-GA/products/75/

I purchased the Ecostrip, a smart power strip that has a constant on outlet for a computer, and multiple outlets triggered by a USB cable. Everything will turn on and off with your computer. I'm sure you might be able to power everything from your computers power supply if you somehow knew which power supply you would need, but this power strip makes it hassle free. http://www.ecostrip.com/products

stigzler · « **Reply #16 on:** June 17, 2013, 02:34:22 pm »

Thanks 05SRT4 - think all's good then in buying a AC/DC converter @ 12V!

Skivt68 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 17, 2013, 03:29:55 pm »

yeah, you just need to make sure that the plug style on the converter you buy matches the plus style of your amp. it also has to mach the center. By that, I mean that some plugs are center-negative, while others are center-positive. You should always check first or you risk frying the amp. Here is a good examples of the polarity symbols for ac/dc power bricks.

stigzler · « **Reply #18 on:** June 17, 2013, 05:40:47 pm »

Thanks Skivt, but think my 50A supply has some meatier connections

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380625508387?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I mainly went this large because gonna run a sub amp and 50W stereo off it

Just hope I don't need earplugs for the TINY fan.

Sig00 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 18, 2013, 05:00:13 pm »

Quote from: jdbailey1206 on June 17, 2013, 08:08:10 am

Sig-

Let me double check when I get home but I will show you what I am using in my cab. They are converters that you can hook up to your PC PSU. Can't remember what they are called off of the top of my head right now.

Awesome, that would be very appreciated!

Quote from: keilmillerjr on June 17, 2013, 09:42:39 am

I got the Lepai 2020+ amp off eBay. Be sure to get it with the wall power supply. They sell it with and without.

Does it seem like a pretty good amp? It looks like a good deal to me, only 25-30 dollars for an amp and power supply, thanks for mentioning it!

I think the main last thing I need to figure out before I start is whether to go with the iPac 2, or the miniPac. If the miniPac is going to be easier for me to hook a trackball and spinner through then it might just be worth spending the extra money on that...

One more question for now, does anyone know any good places to print the artwork? I just need the marquee and control panel printed, I looked for a few websites people had mentioned, but most of the threads they were mentioned in were old and the businesses are now dead. Thanks everyone!

jdbailey1206 · « **Reply #20 on:** June 19, 2013, 08:02:46 am »

http://www.gameongrafix.com/ seems to be the one that most people use. I still have to check on the PC PSU connectors. We had a bad storm blow through my neck of the woods and just got power back @ 10 pm last night. At least I had a two 15 foot sections of pine trees blocking my driveway to keep me busy while the power was out. I'll have fire wood to keep me warm during the winter months while I work on (hopefully) my next project.

05SRT4 · « **Reply #21 on:** June 19, 2013, 09:00:18 am »

Quote from: Sig00 on June 18, 2013, 05:00:13 pm

Quote from: keilmillerjr on June 17, 2013, 09:42:39 am
I got the Lepai 2020+ amp off eBay. Be sure to get it with the wall power supply. They sell it with and without.

Does it seem like a pretty good amp? It looks like a good deal to me, only 25-30 dollars for an amp and power supply, thanks for mentioning it!

I to use a 2020+ amp in my bartop with a pair car speakers and I think they sound great.

Silverwind · « **Reply #22 on:** June 19, 2013, 10:41:54 am »

I was going to use car speakers in my arcade cabinet originally. Had some nice 6.5" component speakers with separate tweeter. What I used was a spare AV receiver. Do you have some old home theater stuff laying around??

What I ended up doing to make things easy is just buying a set of 2.1 computer speakers.

05SRT4 · « **Reply #23 on:** June 19, 2013, 10:48:58 am »

Quote from: Silverwind on June 19, 2013, 10:41:54 am

I was going to use car speakers in my arcade cabinet originally. Had some nice 6.5" component speakers with separate tweeter. What I used was a spare AV receiver. Do you have some old home theater stuff laying around??

What I ended up doing to make things easy is just buying a set of 2.1 computer speakers.

On my fall cab I put a 2.1 system from Logitech in and it sounds good. Having the sub makes a big difference. I always wanted to try car audio so I finally stepped up to the plate with my bartop.

Sig00 · « **Reply #24 on:** June 20, 2013, 10:20:09 pm »

Quote from: jdbailey1206 on June 19, 2013, 08:02:46 am

http://www.gameongrafix.com/ seems to be the one that most people use. I still have to check on the PC PSU connectors. We had a bad storm blow through my neck of the woods and just got power back @ 10 pm last night. At least I had a two 15 foot sections of pine trees blocking my driveway to keep me busy while the power was out. I'll have fire wood to keep me warm during the winter months while I work on (hopefully) my next project.

That't a bummer about the storm, at least you got some free wood out of it though I suppose! Thanks for offering to check, I'm in no rush so no worries. Quick question though, if my LED trackball requires a 12V power source I would be able to just tap in from the yellow wire (probably using the adapter) and that would power it correct?

The last two things on my list to order (until everything gets here and I realize I missed something lol) are the trackball mounting plate and the spinner. I'm not really sure how you pick the trackball mounting plate. I'll be ordering this trackball http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ILLUMINATED-GREEN-HAPP-TRACK-BALL-DIFFERENT-/360294329905 and just am not sure if it matters which mounting plate you get. Does anyone have any suggestions for one? I want to make sure I get one that will be as flush as possible. As for the spinner, I'm looking at either the Turbo Twist 2 and the Ultimarc Spintrak (or maybe the community would suggest another option?), I'm leaning towards the Spintrak but I think they would both be good choices.

PL1 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 21, 2013, 02:10:42 am »

Quote from: Sig00 on June 20, 2013, 10:20:09 pm

Quick question though, if my LED trackball requires a 12V power source I would be able to just tap in from the yellow wire (probably using the adapter) and that would power it correct?

On a PC power supply 4-pin connector, the yellow wire is 12v.

If you use a power tap for a fan, the 12v wire going to the fan connector might be red like this one.

If there's any doubt, you can *carefully* verify it with your multi-meter.

If the LEDs are too bright for your taste, they should also work with 5v.

Quote from: Sig00 on June 20, 2013, 10:20:09 pm

The last two things on my list to order (until everything gets here and I realize I missed something lol) are the trackball mounting plate and the spinner. I'm not really sure how you pick the trackball mounting plate. I'll be ordering this trackball http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ILLUMINATED-GREEN-HAPP-TRACK-BALL-DIFFERENT-/360294329905 and just am not sure if it matters which mounting plate you get.

Happ 3" trackball uses the plate mentioned here.

Many vendors carry them.

Quote from: Sig00 on June 20, 2013, 10:20:09 pm

As for the spinner, I'm looking at either the Turbo Twist 2 and the Ultimarc Spintrak (or maybe the community would suggest another option?), I'm leaning towards the Spintrak but I think they would both be good choices.

Many people (myself included) sing the praises of the TT2.

The Spintrak is definitely a viable option that's overlooked far too often.

It is already wired to work with the Mini-Pac Opti harness. (You were still planning on using a Mini-Pac, right?)

Scott

Sig00 · « **Reply #26 on:** June 21, 2013, 02:46:40 am »

Awesome PL1, thanks for the help! Yes, I'm planning on going with the mini-Pac and that's why I was leaning towards the Spintrak. Do you think it's worth the inconvenience of going with the TT2 and having to wire it? I guess I'll order everything next week and hopefully I can get this project going soon!

PL1 · « **Reply #27 on:** June 21, 2013, 03:56:18 am »

Quote from: Sig00 on June 21, 2013, 02:46:40 am

Do you think it's worth the inconvenience of going with the TT2 and having to wire it?

If the SpinTrak has a knob that you like, don't worry about the TT2.

Remember to look at the steering wheel and flywheel options, too.

Scott

Sig00 · « **Reply #28 on:** June 27, 2013, 03:31:11 pm »

@jdbailey1206 Any luck on finding out which connectors those were?

jdbailey1206 · « **Reply #29 on:** June 28, 2013, 08:07:27 am »

No. I'm sorry. I am going to work on my cabinet tonight. Getting the small things together. Mounting, checking measurements on my CP, in general nit picking the small stuff. I have all my purchased parts together in a box that I want to sort. I will take a look at them and get you a name and serial number hopefully. I purchased them off of amazon I believe. I'll post pictures of what I want to accomplish with cab on here by Saturday. Thanks for your patience Sig.

mgb · « **Reply #30 on:** June 28, 2013, 08:39:40 am »

Quote from: Sig00 on June 21, 2013, 02:46:40 am

Awesome PL1, thanks for the help! Yes, I'm planning on going with the mini-Pac and that's why I was leaning towards the Spintrak. Do you think it's worth the inconvenience of going with the TT2 and having to wire it? I guess I'll order everything next week and hopefully I can get this project going soon!

Either one should be fine. I have a tt2 and its great.
There's really not much for wiring.
It's just the spinner and a small premade cable to a small board that has the USB connection.

jdbailey1206 · « **Reply #31 on:** June 28, 2013, 08:51:05 am »

Okay Sig.

Its been six months since I thought about using those connectors. In that time I have seen the idea used below multiple times and it seems like it would be a lot safer. I am going to use this approach because I have forgotten that I have not only my amp but a monitor and a psu to plug in. Again when I get home I will take pics to show you what I want to do.

Quote from: griffindodd on December 15, 2012, 03:02:30 pm

Final bit for today, wired up the power socket to a multi-plug strip. Tried to photograph the wiring as a reference for anyone else using one of these sockets (don't forget they don't come with the 10A fuse installed, you have to put one in yourself.)

Sig00 · « **Reply #32 on:** June 30, 2013, 07:30:25 pm »

Hmmm, I feel like I should add that to my cabinet, it's clean and looks awesome! However, I may have misunderstood the "connectors" you were talking about before (probably my bad haha). I thought you were talking about a connector that allowed you to easily tap into either the red or yellow wire in a computer power supply to power your LED's and whatnot.

PL1 · « **Reply #33 on:** June 30, 2013, 08:14:14 pm »

Sounds like you want something like this or this or this.

Use search terms "fan power cable molex" at your preferred vendor.

Scott

jdbailey1206 · « **Reply #34 on:** June 30, 2013, 09:40:12 pm »

Sig-

Our discussion started with how you would power the amplifier and I had bought connectors six months ago that would allow you to connect through the power cords that Scott (PL1) showed you. But like I said guys have been doing a setup like I posted earlier. I apologize for not showing you a tutorial. Hopefully I can pull something together by mid week.

Sig00 · « **Reply #35 on:** July 02, 2013, 12:36:19 am »

Where would my build be without this community? In a pile of sawdust and various parts. XD But here's a failboat of a question for you (seriously, probably the stupidest question ever, but here goes), to get the power to the LED's I would literally just strip down the end of my wire, wrap it around the red or yellow depending on the voltage needed and then attach it to my button? I'm sorry, I'm probably just over thinking this right now... o.o

PL1 · « **Reply #36 on:** July 02, 2013, 04:48:45 am »

For LEDs that are on all the time, just strip the red (5v) or yellow (12v) wire on the molex and connect that wire to the red wire in this photo using either a terminal block/strip or a butt splice.

Then strip one of the black (ground) wires on the molex and connect it to the black wire in the photo.

Operating Voltage (5v or 12v on molex)
|
|___________ Daisy chain for voltage
| | | | |
L L L L L LEDs
|__|__|__|__| Daisy chain for ground
|
|
Ground (on molex)

That completes a path from the operating voltage source through the LEDs to ground.

Terminal blocks/strips

Butt splices

Scott

a1pharm · « **Reply #37 on:** July 03, 2013, 09:11:56 pm »

Not sure if this is too late:

Check out groovygamegear.com for LED buttons, they are what I used in my cab, and I am thrilled. They run on 5v or 12v, the brightness is actually nearly identical with either voltage, so using 5v will allow the LEDs to last longer. Only use 5v for white buttons. It's easy to wire the LEDs to your PSU (don't buy LEDwiz/blinky if you only want on/off functionality for your LEDs).

They also sell wire harnesses for LEDs and for switches.

They also sell an alternative to Ipacs, it's called KeyWiz. It costs less than the Ipacs, and has at least the same functionality. I used it in my cab (the PS2 version, not the usb version), and it works great.

As for using a minipac for your trackball and spinner: your trackball may already have a USB interface, if it does, you can easily splice in the spinner to the same interface and avoid buying something you don't need.

As for your audio: check out garage sales and craigslist for a name brand computer speaker setup, it may cost less than your car speaker solution. Also, computer speakers are usually engineered for fine high frequency tones, which are heavily utilized by arcade games, and may sound better than car speakers (which value 1khz midrange frequencies - in order to replicate vocals correctly).

Be sure if you are going to put artwork on your CP, that you design it BEFORE you do any cutting/drilling, as the art will 100% dictate how everything will fit together.

Great questions, good luck on your build

Cheers!

CoryBee · « **Reply #38 on:** July 04, 2013, 12:28:34 am »

For speakers I go to any random thrift shop\store. I get 15" - 19" LCD monitors for around $15 and my computer speakers for $3 - $4.

JOHN HOWARD · « **Reply #39 on:** July 04, 2013, 06:52:10 am »

Thanks for this thread, picked up some nice tips and tricks

jdbailey1206 · « **Reply #40 on:** July 08, 2013, 09:40:38 am »

Quote from: CoryBee on July 04, 2013, 12:28:34 am

For speakers I go to any random thrift shop\store. I get 15" - 19" LCD monitors for around $15 and my computer speakers for $3 - $4.

What? What? What? What?


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