Power tools choice

[fablog]

Hello,

I'm totally a noob for woodworking but I decided to start my project. I need to buy tools and I would like your help. My main concern is money and my budget is max 200$ shipped. With all my readings here, for a standup MDF cabinet, I think I will need :
- jigsaw
- orbital sander
- router
- drill/driver
- circular saw

What exact models I should buy? Please, give prices and links to US online retailers.

Thanks for your help.

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[shponglefan]

I don't think it's possible with that budget.  Especially since you also need to factor in buying accessories (i.e. drill bits, router bits, etc).

I'd probably just buy a half-decent router (possibly used), a drill, and maybe a circular saw.  I wouldn't bother with a sander or jigsaw at this point.

And if you do need anything else, just rent.

[fablog]

Thx for the advice. What models do you recommand for the router, circular saw and drill? There are so much model that I don't want to buy something bad for this project neither too much good for the little use I will have.

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[spoot]

I've bought quite a few refurb from http://bigskytool.com/ with good luck when they do their sales on Hitachi equipment.  But the prices aren't that great unless they doing a sale.

[shponglefan]

Thx for the advice. What models do you recommand for the router, circular saw and drill? There are so much model that I don't want to buy something bad for this project neither too much good for the little use I will have.

The only brands I've had experience with are DeWalt, Makita, Rigid and Black & Decker (the latter is an old router I inherited from my parents).  I've had generally good experience with all those brands.

In retrospect, if this is your only real project you're planning on for these tools, then maybe skipping the router and saw and just renting instead might be better.  I suppose it would depend on whatever rental rates you can get, though.

I'd buy a decent quality corded drill at least, since they come in handy for all sorts of things.

[fablog]

Hey guys,

Thx for your help. I think I will buy and not rent, it will be a good investment for the future.
I saw this corded drill:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FS572E/ref=gno_cart_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This router:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZZWX8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I didn't find better price for a future proof router with variable speed and 1/2 collet

And this circular saw:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9H4VO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

What do you think about them? Do you have a better choice to propose me? The router is a bit too much expensive so I will wait for a better price.

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[kahlid74]

I saw this corded drill:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FS572E/ref=gno_cart_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'm not a fan of Black and Decker at all however, that one is corded so you might be okay.  Every Black and Decker drill I've ever had has been horrible.  Batteries die super fast, far less power than they say they have, etc.

This router:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZZWX8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I didn't find better price for a future proof router with variable speed and 1/2 collet

This is a very important tool and you should splurge here for sure.  I've been pleased with Hitachi tools but I've never used this specific router before.  Either way I think you'll be good to go on this one.

And this circular saw:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9H4VO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'm not a fan of Skil either.  Cheaper brand and most of their tools broke on me after about 1 to 1.5 years. 


I don't really have the time to scrounge and try to find something better that fits a $200 budget because that's really tough to do if you want to buy those three tools and have them last.  I would, in your place, save more money to buy the tools you know will last the test of time.  This is just my opinion.  If however, you're fine with throwing a tool away after a few years then it might not be a bad idea to go with these and see how long they last you.  All depends on how often you use them and how you watch the bits/blades (Don't forget that good bits/blades for these tools are going to run you $50-100 to start like others above have said)

[Sparkolicious]

hmm.. I have had my Skil worm drive for over 14 years and the only trouble I've had is I nicked the cord and had to patch it.  I have never owned any other brand of circular saw. I have 4 routers. A Makita, 2 Porter cable, and a Skil. The skill is cheap, and not very accurate.  The Makita is probably 20+ years old, and just a backup backup at this point. The Porter cables are my main tools. The company I worked for years ago bought one for a particular job, and when it was over, I caught them trying to actually throw it away! 

[fablog]

Thanks guys for your answers. I Will put more money on the table and buy these tools when their prices will go down more.

My cabinet will me made with MDF MDO. What bits should I buy?


And, what do you think of that:
- Kreg SML-F125-100 1-1/4-Inch 7-Fine Washer-Head Pocket Screws, 100-Count 6.42$
- Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System 39.95$

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[kahlid74]

Thanks guys for your answers. I Will put more money on the table and buy these tools when their prices will go down more.

My cabinet will me made with MDF MDO. What bits should I buy?


And, what do you think of that:
- Kreg SML-F125-100 1-1/4-Inch 7-Fine Washer-Head Pocket Screws, 100-Count 6.42$
- Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System 39.95$

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Bits are a dime a dozen.  There are great ones and there are bad ones.  Biggest thing that I've experienced is knowing when they are dull.  If you have to push on a drill when going through plywood the bit is worn out.  Where-as if you can just drill and let the bit pull you through the wood, you know you're rocking.  Titanium coated bits rock for wood but black oxide are your cheapest.  I like the basic Dewalt Titanium coated bits for wood working.  Stay sharp for quite a while but make sure not to run them through metal, it will ruin them.  If you want to drill metal you'll want to push towards a cobalt bit.

Router bits I like Bosch/Freud.  Not super expensive but higher grade then run of the mil Menards/HD/Lowes generic low quality bits.

Saw blades I like Freud Diablo 40-60 tooth for regular wood cutting on MDO/MDF/Pywood/2x4's. 

Kreg pocket holes are awesome, but are designed more for wood furniture as they grab the wood and pull it together.  It's been stated many times on here that screws in Plywood/MDF/MDO don't hold very well, so I would probably save the money from the Kreg Pocket hole system unless you plan to build furniture in the near future.

The best method that I've used and that is highly used on these boards is lots of wood glue with supporting strips of wood, kind of like firring strips only at a 90 angle.  Everyone does them differently, but I take two boards, pre-drill through the board from the outside in through my firring strip, then I wood glue both sides of the firing strip for where the 90 angle is connected, use screws to pull the two boards against the firring strip and the wood glue then binds creating a super strong joint.

[eds1275]

I use the freud diablo blades. They are awesome. If you are working at home and not really out running around with your tools I suggest corded ones - I have a pair of cheap black and decker drills (one regular, one hammer) and they are great.

Do not skimp on your router. I have an ancient Makita router with more guts than this hobby calls for.

If you do go cheap on your tools, then don't go cheap on your cutting bits (actually even with good tools use good blades!) But especially not with cheap tools.

[mavsprophecy]

I love my Bosch 1617 router.  Seems Bosch is the best name in routers and jigsaws, and not that much more expensive either.  $10 more than that Hitachi.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD

Also, I just got a lot of power tools through CPO outlets.  Really awesome reconditioned tools. Love their selection and cheap, cheap shipping.  Some items aren't much less than buying new on Amazon, but there are some good deals there too.

http://www.reconditionedtools.com/

[fablog]

Thanks guys, your comments are very helpful.
I knew that Bosch have very good quality tools but now I'm convinced to buy this router:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005RHPD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

For the drill it will be that:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FS572E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I want a cheap circular saw but I don't know what to choose because I afraid the saw included will be bad quality.

I heard you for the quality bits, could you show me exactly what I could buy? Remember I'm very noob, it's a new world for me

My cab will be built with mdo:
http://www.rona.ca/en/plywood-for-balconies

Thanks



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[thefuture]

For basic woodworking, this is one of the highest regarded starter set of bits for the router:

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1360811214&sr=1-1&keywords=mlcs+router+bit+set

But for an arcade machine, you would probably just need a slot cutting bit for t-molding, and possibly a roundover bit to round over some edges to get started.  With that router, be sure to get the 1/2 inch bits instead of 1/4 (can use both, but 1/2 is better).

[shponglefan]

For router bits, the ones I've found I've used in arcade building are:

1) Straight bit - used for recessing joysticks and other hardware
2) Flush trim bit - mostly for trimming plexi/laminate; also useful in making each side of a cabinet/control panel the exact same size
3) Slot cutter - for T-Molding

I mainly use Freud bits.

For drilling, I use hole saws and/or forster bits for drilling out holes for joysticks or buttons.  I generally have used Milwaukee hole saws and Irwin forstner bits.

[fablog]

Hi everyone,

Thanks again for your suggestions, my thinking has evolved a lot. Here are my last power tool choice with accessorys. As you already know, English isn't my first language and I hope you understand what I mean.

- Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router $119.99
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005QEVQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
My new choice is a fixed router instead of a plunged one. Much Cheaper and I don't think I will miss this function.

- Freud 63-100 1/16-Inch Slot Cutter Set 9/16-Inch depth cut (1/4-Inch Shank) $18.97
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-63-100-16-Inch-Cutter-4-Inch/dp/B0002TUCRA/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

- Freud 42-114 Bearing Flush Trim Router Bit 1/2 Diameter, 1/2" shank with TiCo Hi-Density Carbide $16.75
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225YC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

- Porter-Cable PC13CSL 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw with Laser-Guide $59.97
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EYU8R6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Skill have a cheaper one but for only $10 less

- Freud D0760X Diablo Ultra Finish Saw Blade ATB 7-1/4-Inch by 60t 5/8-Inch Arbor $20.49
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZEU0S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2OWTFZVIG7K1P

- Stanley 060864R Folding Sawhorse (2-Pack) $39.99
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029HJAZ8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

- Heavy Duty Muslin Clamps 4 1/2 inch 6 Pack $5.49
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AZ38Z0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14BYA46AJO8R3

- Johnson Level and Tool JTS48 48-Inch Aluminum Drywall T-Square  $12.07
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7ZS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2BBUA7LL95L5R

- Black & Decker DR340B 6.0-Amp 3/8-Inch Drill/Driver $35.99
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FS572E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
 
- Forstner bit
Any idea? (dimensions, model)

- Straight bit
Any idea? (dimensions, model)

- Countersink bit
Any idea? (dimensions, model)

Do I need other bits/tools?

Long life to BYOAC!!!

[PL1]

- Forstner bit
Any idea? (dimensions, model)

Freud FB-008 1-1/8-Inch by 3/8-Inch Shank Forstner Drill Bit -- great choice.

I also picked up an Amico 30mm Forstner Bit -- not sure about the quality of this bit, but for $2.84 + free shipping, I figured it was worth it.   


Scott

[shponglefan]

Before shopping for specific bits, you should probably figure out which arcade parts you want to use (mainly joysticks/buttons and other controls).  The types of arcade parts which determine the types and sizes of bits required.

[fablog]

Before shopping for specific bits, you should probably figure out which arcade parts you want to use (mainly joysticks/buttons and other controls).

I've done my homework:

- 2X ultimarc U360 2X$59.00
http://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html

- 12 Electric ICE 2 Lightable Horizontal Pushbutton 12X$2.75
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=238

- coin door
Don't know yet.

[fablog]

I found the bit dimensions needed for the U360 so I will buy:
- Freud PB-008 Precision Shear 1-1/8-Inch by 3/8-Inch Shank Serrated Edge Forstner Drill Bit $13.62
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-PB-008-Precision-Serrated-Forstner/dp/B0000AV71B/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1361332654&sr=1-1

Is this bit OK too for my pushbuttons?

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[shponglefan]

I've never used the Electric Ice pushbuttons, but they seem very similar to the HAPP pushbuttons, which are 1 1/8" in diameter.

[fablog]

- Forstner bit
Any idea? (dimensions, model)

Freud FB-008 1-1/8-Inch by 3/8-Inch Shank Forstner Drill Bit -- great choice.

I also picked up an Amico 30mm Forstner Bit -- not sure about the quality of this bit, but for $2.84 + free shipping, I figured it was worth it.   


Scott

Pl1 thx for your suggestion. Do you see a big difference with the forstner bit I found?

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[PL1]

- Forstner bit
Any idea? (dimensions, model)

Freud FB-008 1-1/8-Inch by 3/8-Inch Shank Forstner Drill Bit -- great choice.

I also picked up an Amico 30mm Forstner Bit -- not sure about the quality of this bit, but for $2.84 + free shipping, I figured it was worth it.   


Scott

Pl1 thx for your suggestion. Do you see a big difference with the forstner bit I found?

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The PB-008 that you linked is a little more expensive and has a slightly serrated edge on the underside compared to the FB-008.

Beyond that . . .    . . . the details on the Freud website look pretty much the same other than the PB-008 having the word "Precision" in the description IIRC.

I'm very happy with the results from the FB-008, but considering that I previously used a Harbor Freight holesaw that is slightly smaller than advertised -- no big surprise.


Scott

[fablog]

Thx Scott for the information

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[fablog]

Guys all my tools are ordered, I'm very excited! A friend is doing a 3d model with solid works using the Koenig's "Project mame" guide. Few modifications will be done
I finally decided to use 5/8 MDF because the cabinet will be laminated with 1/16 Formica.

I have some questions for you:

1) With 5/8 MDF, is a Freud 42-114 Bearing Flush Trim Router Bit 1/2 Diameter, 1/2" shank will be OK?
2) what cutting guide should I buy to use with a circular saw and a router.
3) where to buy 1/16 laminate sheets in Canada (Montreal)?
4) what exact screw should I buy (I need the exacts dimensions)? I will countersink them and using wood glue.

Like you can see I have a lot of noob questions
My wife I as out the country with my baby for 5 weeks. I'm sad but I have to use this time to do the most of my project!

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