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| crosbred900's Analog Xbox360 Control Panel - DONE! |
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| BadMouth:
I just bought myself a basic electronics book, a breadboard, and a pile of parts to experiment with. Haven't taken the time to read any of it yet though, so I'm asking you guys. :) I picked up a pair of used Happ analog triggersticks to experiment with for this project. I was planning on just swapping in the proper value pots, but they came with this "Pot Amp" 95-0013-00 I came accross this info on KLOV: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=252946 --- Quote ---HAPP CONTROLS POTENTIOMETER AMPLIFIER PCB #95-0013-00 The Happ Controls Pot Amp pcb is designed to be used with a Happ Controls analog (potentiometer type) joystick to increase the effective range of the potentiometers on the joystick. For example, when operating at 5 volts, an unamplified joystick moved to it's extremes has a voltage range at the potentiometer of only about .7 volts. With the Pot Amp pcb the voltage range can be adjusted anywhere from .7 to 5 volts. The center voltage can also be adjusted to voltages other than the usual 2.5 volts independently. This means that an analog joystick equipped with a Pot Amp pcb can be used with any game hardware that uses an analog type joystick operated at 5 or 12 volts. No special wiring is necessary; power for the pcb is connected to the vertical and horizontal potentiometer +V and Common connections. Connection: PCB pin Function 1. Vertical output 2. Horizontal output 3. Horizontal input 4. Vertical input 5. NC 6. Power supply common 7. +V (5 or 12 volts) Adjustments: VR1 Vertical center VR2 Vertical range VR3 Horizontal range VR4 Horizontal center To adjust, place joystick at it's center and adjust center trim pots to the desired voltage (typically 2.5 volts). Then move the joystick to it's extremes and adjust range trim pots to the desired voltage range (typically 3 volts or a bit less). The adjustments are interactive, so it may be necessary to repeat the adjustments. --- End quote --- It sounds like they might be extremely useful to tie the pots into the hacked xbox controller. One concern I had was whether the happ would have enough travel for the pot to register as all the way in a direction. This board sounds like it addresses that. I've been focusing on using the same value pots and haven't really thought about things in terms of voltage. My question is: Is there anything on this board that would draw any extra current and if so, should I be concerned about frying the xbox pad? In my limited knowledge I don't think so, but I don't want to lose all the work I put into hacking the pad. Definitely don't want to fry crossbred900's xbox. |
| PL1:
Here's the datasheet for the LMC662CM. Scott |
| BadMouth:
The Pot Amp didn't fry the xbox controller, but it didn't seem to accomplish much either. When displaying raw data in the windows controller calibration, adjusting the pots on the pot amp resulted in miniscule changes. Either I misunderstood what the pot amp supposed to accomplish, or it doesn't accomplish much. I tried it with the original 5k pots, a 10k pot, & a 50k pot. Didn't make any difference in the range of movement on-screen, but it was less jittery with every increase. I had a spare 10k pot, so I stuck that in the Happ joystick and wired it directly to the xbox controller. The results were not good. The range of motion on the Happ joystick is so limited, that the on screen cursor only moves a tiny bit. The handles of the ALPS joysticks don't move much farther, but the on screen cursor moves accross the full range. On closer inspection, the pots in the ALPS joysticks are only moving about 60-80 degrees, yet going through their full range. So now I guess I'm looking for pots that are less than one turn, but I can't seem to find any online. I found a mention of quarter turn pots here on byoac, but can't find them for sale anywhere. Anyone know where to source a 60 degree or 90 degree pot? The pots in the alps don't seem to be good candidates for transplant into the Happ sticks. I may end up having to use the ALPS joysticks after all, but will need to beef them up or create some kind of ALPS/Sanwa hybrid. I'd rather find real arcade parts that work because they can take serious abuse and nobody is going to be around that can service it. Thread needs more pics, so here are some of the Happ Analog disassembly: Little bit of damage, but I think it is salvageable. Haven't priced a replacement yet. Rusted on top. Thick cruddy lube inside. Awaiting delivery of lube for reassembly. One cool thing is it uses a bearing where the joystick shaft rides against the restrictor plate. It's giving me ideas....I did want to reduce the throw on my JLF........ |
| Jigenjuke:
--- Quote from: BadMouth on November 28, 2012, 06:19:27 pm ---In researching bite switches, I came accross this overpriced monstrosity: http://www.broadenedhorizons.com/ultimate-arcade The same place is also charging $450 for what amounts to my hacked xbox360 controller above (with no controls) and $99 for a bite swith with a MSRP of $35-45. :angry: Anyways, back to this build....... Finding suitable analogue sticks is probably going to be the biggest challenge. The industrial ones I looked at were expensive and who knows how they'd feel. I'm waiting to hear back from a vendor who is checking with their Seimitsu vendor about getting a set of LS-64 analog sticks. This stick should be perfect if we can get a pair. They are already 10k which is what we need and are built for arcade duty. They won't be cheap, but should be a lot cheaper than the Happ analogs (which we would still have to swap out the pots in). I have some Sanwa bat-tops that I plan to put on them. For the D-Pad, we're going with a JLF with either a round or octagonal gate. I'm thinking octagon would be more forgiving, but I'll get both and he can have someone swap the round one in if he likes. The buttons will be translucent Seimitsu 30mm with inserts similar to the ones I'm using in my cab, although the ones in this CP will probably have black lettering. Absolutely every input on the xbox controller has been wired, including the ones activated by pressing down on the thumb sticks. crossbred900 is working on a layout that will work best for him. There will also be two 2.5mm jacks wired in parallel with the trigger buttons for use with bite switches. Hopefully this will allow first person shooters to be played effectively. I'll add a jack for the headset too, although I have no plans to make it shaped to accept the contours of the official headset. A short exentsion cable will probably have to be used between the CP and the headset. That's where the project stands for now. I have enough mdf, Dayton stick on vinyl, and red T-molding to make a respectable CP (IMO anyway). Not planning on doing plexi or artwork for now, but we'll see if I can cut out the plexi for my own CP without breaking it. If I succed in doing that in one try, maybe I'll reconsider it for this CP. I'm still waiting on the second ALPS joystick I ordered to come in. When it does, I'll find a real xbox360 to test the hacked pad on and see how much deadzone it allows for. Hi there, Looks like a great project. I live here in Japan. I can check for availabitliy of the LS-64 here at Arcade companies here in Japan if you would like me to. Let me know. Jigenjuke --- End quote --- |
| BadMouth:
--- Quote from: Jigenjuke on December 18, 2012, 09:41:54 pm ---Hi there, Looks like a great project. I live here in Japan. I can check for availabitliy of the LS-64 here at Arcade companies here in Japan if you would like me to. Let me know. Jigenjuke --- End quote --- That would be great! I don't have a lot of hope since they've been discontinued, but if you can find a pair, I'll take them. |
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