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| crosbred900's Analog Xbox360 Control Panel - DONE! |
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| BadMouth:
Found some time to fix up the buttons with labels. I didn't like the way start and back looked printed small, so I went with arrows like the real buttons have. They were printed on an Avery 18665 full sheet clear label. The printed sheet had circular outlines slightly larger than each button insert. The back was removed from the clear adhesive sheet and the button inserts carefully placed in the center of the circles. Then they were cut apart and the excess (including the circular outline) was trimmed away with a fresh x-acto blade. This was my first time using the clear inkjet labels and I must say that I am impressed. The adhesive is strong, and the image comes out detailed and bright (see the smaller xbox button). I read some complaints about it looking more frosted than clear, but on the white inserts they look perfect. The printing on the surface didn't smudge, but it can be scratched off fairly easily, so I'd only recommend using them on inserts, not on the surface of a button. Looking forward to trying some bright designs in clear plungers for another project someday. I'm still trying to work out the best course of action for the joysticks. If JigenJuke doesn't find any LS-64s, I'm leaning toward mounting Sanwa bat tops on the little ALPS sticks. It won't be arcade durable, but I know it works. I haven't given up on the Happ sticks completely yet. Need to wrap my head around getting full voltage range out of very limited stick movement if we go that route. |
| crossbred900:
Those look very nice. I'm glad I came across this site and found someone willing to work on this project :) . Here's hoping JigenJuke has some luck finding LS-64s, and a great new year. |
| BadMouth:
A progress (or lack of progress) update. It seems the only chance of finding the LS-64s is finding them used in a repair shop in Japan. I think chances are pretty slim since nobody seems to have ever seen one in real life or know of a game that they were used in. :-\ I took apart a potentiometer and made the same modifications LeChuck used in his micro star wars cab. Basically, I took a 50k pot and put conductive paint on the section that goes from 10k to 50k. This effectively turned the 50k pot into a 10k pot with a very limited range of motion. It's hard to get it exactly 10k though and I'm not sure how well the cheap $3 radioshack pots I used would hold up. I'm afraid if the pot is allowed to travel far enough to rub the spot that's been painted, it will wear through one day and throw the joystick centering off. I'm sticking this solution in the last resort pile with the little ALPS joysticks. I've been fixated on having a 10k pot because that's what was in the original xbox controller, but in truth the controller is probably working off the voltage (hopefully), not the resistance. A 10k pot with 5 volts going to it will read 2.5 volts when centered. A 100k pot will also read 2.5v when centered. As long as it has the same amount of resistance on each side, the voltage is divided equally. So the value of the pot isn't as important as finding one with a limited range of motion. The replacement pots for the Happ joystick say they're "S taper" From what I've been able to find out about S taper pots online, it sounds like it's a custom taper and might be hard to find a generic match for. If someone could offer a better explanation of it, I'd be ready to listen. So I ordered a single 100k pot from Happ to drop into my analog Happ trigger stick. Since it's made for the range of motion of the joystick, maybe we'll luck out and it will just work. I only ordered one because they are $31 each. That should be enough to see if it works. I don't want crossbred dropping money on the Happ Analogs until it's guaranteed they will work. We'll see what that does with the hacked pad and if it doesn't work, I guess I'll see if I can get one of the custom industrial joystick companies to sell me one of their 10k pots. I may also go ahead and mount seimitsu bat tops to the little alps joysticks just to see how they play. I know this is taking forever, but I'll wrap it up one way or another by the end of next month. |
| BadMouth:
More testing and more text without pics...... I tested out the 100k happ pot in the Happ analog trigger stick last night and it mostly worked. It moved all the way in one direction and almost all the way in the other. My trigger sticks rest at a slight angle instead of being completely centered. That could explain it registering farther in one direction than the other. Maybe it just makes center whatever position the joystick is in when it is connected. Unfortunately I don't have access to an xbox360 to test with. I'm 85% sure that the 100k Happs would work fine, but wanted to be 100% sure before having crossbred900 drop that kind of money. I planned to take the numbers off the pot and order more from a cheaper source so I could outfit both directions on both triggersticks that I'm testing with. It doesn't match up with anything on the manufacture's website (PEC). It looks like it's a custom taper made for Happ. :-\ crossbred900 is going to have someone in Japan go to akihabarashop in person as one last try in finding LS-64s, but I don't have much hope for them. I think we're down to either cheaping out and mounting sanwa bat-tops to the little ALPS sticks or dropping the money on the 100k Happ analogs. If the mounting plates of my trigger stick are the same as the standard mounting plates, I may just make an adapter plate to use the ALPS sticks now, but allow for the Happ sticks to be added later. The lack of sawdust so far in this project is driving me nuts. :cry: |
| jmike:
:applaud: :applaud: BadMouth, I'm really digging those buttons labels, any chance you can set something up for me? Let me know if you can and how much. They'll go great in my xbox 360 bartop I'm working on. :cheers: |
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