Scratch - Marvel v Capcom: Revolution - Complete with tour video

[rablack97]

 

All good points by LeChuck, and Shaner's photo is golden...........

It's your machine do what make's YOU happy, I just offer suggestions.......

All hail the laminate + rye & barley!!!!!!

[jace055]

I vote for beer holders as well. I don't have cup holders, we just sit them on top of the control panel, and we have spilled quite a bit of beer. It cleans up easy and if you ruin a button your only out a couple of bucks.

Btw. The rotating monitor is badass.   

[TheShaner]

Just don't go with bolt-on flip-down cup holders, those things are redneck, oh and your rotation is tits.  Keep up the good work and build it your way, seems to me you're doing pretty well here.   

I'll have you know I resemble that remark!  Seriously though, I bought some of the happ cup holders first and didn't like them. Too bulky and distracting. These tuck away. If I ever find anything better I will swap them out.

Now back to the trailer to watch reruns of the Duke boys and suck down Schlitz.

[Le Chuck]

Just don't go with bolt-on flip-down cup holders, those things are redneck, oh and your rotation is tits.  Keep up the good work and build it your way, seems to me you're doing pretty well here.   

I'll have you know I resemble that remark!  Seriously though, I bought some of the happ cup holders first and didn't like them. Too bulky and distracting. These tuck away. If I ever find anything better I will swap them out.

Now back to the trailer to watch reruns of the Duke boys and suck down Schlitz.

You don't have to justify man, rock those inner stars and bars.  'Merica was built on redneck ingenuity. 

[TopJimmyCooks]

If your machine is on carpet and pad it's going to vibrate around a little bit - I couldn't set a drink on top for this reason.  Mine doesn't move when I play it, but two player coop there is some movement.  This is not a concern on a hard floor with levelers. 

[griffindodd]

I built it drunk, I play it drunk.

Quote of the day right there lol 

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I'm having a great time building this, I really think that this hobby could end up being a lifetime addiction, so much fun. Laminate arrived today, enough to cover a football field so I'm looking forward to seeing how it looks on the different panels. Still waiting on my router bits, new workmate bench, shop vac and other bits before I start making an MDF dust storm. This weekend I hope to have the mounting for both monitors in place, the rotating monitor will be a completely modular unit that can slide quickly out of the cab for service and tweaking. As much as i love the rotating, it's a few too many moving parts under stress for my liking so it has to be easily accessible.

I love how passionate people are getting about cupholders, so funny.  Hooray Beer!!!!

[griffindodd]

Ok, here it is in the cab, talk about tight, there's about 1/16th of an inch either side of the monitor at it's widest rotation point which is just perfect  I wanted to maximize the screen size within the area as much as possible while still being able to rotate



Cable binding is a danger, that's something I am going to have to harness up properly to ensure it doesn't happen. Also I am going to have to mount the monitor upside down due to the angle of view from the bottom washing out the color. From the top down the colors should be better, from the side in portrait mode the colors look great. If I have to I can increase the angle of the playing field but I want to avoid that if possible as that would take away from the pinball table feel I am trying to recreate in portrait mode.

Fun Fun Fun 

[TopJimmyCooks]

run the cables down near the center of rotation rather than out at the edge.

[griffindodd]

run the cables down near the center of rotation rather than out at the edge.

Yep that's the plan, also I'm going to look around to find lightweight cables

[griffindodd]

Can you post links on the belt and pullies?  I looked on amazon but could only find stuff that was car sized/too big.

Here you go...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMY6M6/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMU8MI/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i01

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN0HM8/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02

If I were to do this again I would probably use a slightly larger small gear as it was tight getting it onto the universal mount for the Pololu motor shaft

[griffindodd]

Here's a closeup of one of the adjustable height disk levelling casters I built, amazing what you can do with $5 of bits from Home Depot. I bought swivelling casters thinking they would be best but I think I may change them out for fixed casters as these flip around when the disk changes direction and cause some judder

[DNA Dan]

I think you'll be happy you ditched the friction setup. The direct drive setup you're engineered is fantastic. I always visualized this occurring on the end of the shaft, but mounted into the middle of the rotation apparatus makes complete sense. I have been thinking of ways to reduce this to absolute minimum. Still conjuring up my next cab.

I think people are negative on the cupholders for a few reasons:
1) Some feel it detracts from a classic design, or from the graphics of the CP
2) Quality controls are expensive to come by and ruining them by spilling beer on them is almost certain to happen. (Not to mention the potential fire hazard when it does.)

I say if you aren't concerned with those things go for it. It's certainly functional. I have to rest my beverage to the side of the cab on a table, and it's a real pain when you are sitting on a stool to have to reach for a swig. Oh the laziness. . .

BTW, How are you locking that gear on the threaded shaft? It it just sandwiched with some lock washers?
 

[griffindodd]

BTW, How are you locking that gear on the threaded shaft? It it just sandwiched with some lock washers?

Hi Dan. At the moment i just have regular bolts and washers torqued down, when I feel confident about the configuration I'll put some lock washers and threadlock in there.

[griffindodd]

I have been thinking of ways to reduce this to absolute minimum.

If you are using lightweight LED screens like this one I feel pretty confident you could drop the pulleys and belts altogether and have a true direct drive with the motor drive shaft turning the screen itself. I'd use a universal joint on the drive shaft to avoid the weight of the monitor bareing down on the motor shaft itself, this would also allow you to have the motor on it's side reducing the overall depth profile considerably. I came up with that solution after building this one, still considering if I want to tear this all down to try that route as it has less points of failure.

[DNA Dan]

I checked out the gears and I see they have a set screw. I definitely would not just rely on that. You could also drill the shaft with a small hole to accept a greater length of the set screw for added strength.

It's weird though, you'd think there would be a lot of torque on the rotation however once it's mounted in the slant position and consider the gearing, it really takes very little effort to rotate it. Keep up the good work!

[griffindodd]

It's weird though, you'd think there would be a lot of torque on the rotation however once it's mounted in the slant position and consider the gearing, it really takes very little effort to rotate it. Keep up the good work!

Yeah as long as you let the driveshaft take all the weight and take care to balance things well, these little motors can handle the load no problem. While experimenting when I would get a jam the belt jumped the teeth way before the motor even thinks about stopping, these Pololu geared motors are strong little beggars

[DNA Dan]

I have been thinking of ways to reduce this to absolute minimum.

If you are using lightweight LED screens like this one I feel pretty confident you could drop the pulleys and belts altogether and have a true direct drive with the motor drive shaft turning the screen itself. I'd use a universal joint on the drive shaft to avoid the weight of the monitor bareing down on the motor shaft itself, this would also allow you to have the motor on it's side reducing the overall depth profile considerably. I came up with that solution after building this one, still considering if I want to tear this all down to try that route as it has less points of failure.

I think you'd have to use a 90 degree motor for this. Those pololu motors are pretty long to begin with. Another factor is I have decided having the monitor "inset" in a rotating disk to be the best design for finishing off the bezel. You could simply layer some black material over it to cover the edge of the screen. This means the monitor is already at the deepest part of the rotation assembly. So gearing with the motor off to the side could reduce the depth further. 

[griffindodd]

Something like this would seem like it could be put to good use...

http://www.pjtool.com/rotarytoolflexshaft.aspx

[griffindodd]

Another factor is I have decided having the monitor "inset" in a rotating disk to be the best design for finishing off the bezel. You could simply layer some black material over it to cover the edge of the screen.

For me this is only practical if you can do it without increasing the rotational diameter of the screen, I hate too much black space around the screen just to accommodate for rotation, that's why I've built this so ridiculously tight in the cab frame, I want the absoute minimum bezel I can get away with

[DNA Dan]

Yeah that's going to be a challenge for the bezel no matter which way you go. If the corners of the monitor are pretty much the same length as the rotational radius during rotation, you'll have to be creative to get a bezel in there. I'd like to see what you come up with. Certainly limiting this distance is best overall for keeping the cabinet width within reason, but it makes concealing the interior more difficult. I struggled with this aspect. I think I ended up putting ~1/2-3/4" on each side to give me some space for this.

This is one of the more challenging parts of the rotating cab. Making it rotate but look concealed and clean without some huge bezel. I played quite a bit with the math. That is why I think the inset approach is better. You actually have a surface to glue your bezel to. I wasn't happy with the way I did mine. The "floating" bezel was just too much hassle for me.

[griffindodd]

Here's a little tool porn for you, just arrived today

[griffindodd]

No progress on the cab today, the garage was a mess of tools and sawdust so it was time to get organized

[griffindodd]

Picked up some more unused controls from forum member Ron310 in the form of an ultimarc 3 inch trackball with mount and optipac. Ill probably pick up the rgb conversion kit and a second pac64 so I can do full rgb for all buttons on the controller.

[TheShaner]

If you go RGB on all of the buttons, and plan on just buying the buttons ready to go, rather than rigging the lights into them yourslef, do yourself a favor and get them from Ultimarc.  The connectors on them will save you a ton of time and heartache.  If not you will need to look into buying pins for the ends of the wires and clamping each.  I have a link to them somewhere in my thread.

[griffindodd]

If you go RGB on all of the buttons, and plan on just buying the buttons ready to go, rather than rigging the lights into them yourslef, do yourself a favor and get them from Ultimarc.  The connectors on them will save you a ton of time and heartache.  If not you will need to look into buying pins for the ends of the wires and clamping each.  I have a link to them somewhere in my thread.

Yeah I already have ultralux buttons so I'll get the rest to match

[griffindodd]

Decided to burn some midnight oil as I had an itch I just had to scratch. I felt like it must be possible to drive the monitor rotation directly with the motor itself, no cogs or pulleys or belts or guide wheels, that's just way too much crap that can go wrong.

So I tore everything apart and took a different approach. I mounted the motor directly to the back of the monitor and I also mounted the 300lb lazy susan bearing I had to the monitor around the motor ensuring they both had the exact same center of rotation. The lazy susan then mounts to the support frame taking all the weight of the monitor. The motor is then braced in place, running right through the middle of the lazy susan. This technique gets rid of 80% of the other hardware and moving parts and ensures a very 'flat' rotation with hardly any wobble and vastly reduces the depth of the whole mechanism, it's also very quiet..

The result....



Side view of the setup

[ataruzzolo]

Good work!
How do you have connected the motor to the monitor?

[Le Chuck]

Awesome 

[rablack97]

Sweet man looking good........

[TopJimmyCooks]

Really good stuff.  turn your braking up to 100% in smccmd and you may avoid some of the bouncing. 

[griffindodd]

Built out V2 properly today and I'm happy with the results as its virtually silent. Ill have to increase the view angle as the screen is still a little washed out even upside down. Ill also probably put in some stronger switches maybe something without a  click and more resistance

[griffindodd]

Good work!
How do you have connected the motor to the monitor?

Pololu sell a universal mount that screws onto the D-Shaft on the motor, I simply screwed that mount to the casing in the center of the back of the monitor and then attached it to the motor shaft.

[griffindodd]

Another nice little milestone to end the weekend. Did a rough mount of the top screen and adjusted the angles of the bottom screen to help with color saturation. Fired them up with a couple of pics to get a feel for how pinball will look. Still some alignment to do but it's really starting to look good.

[Le Chuck]

Ah! Kill it with Fire! What have you done to TAF?!11!

That's looking awesome.  I'm anxious to see how it all comes together once you get the bezel and CP in place. 

[griffindodd]

Ah! Kill it with Fire! What have you done to TAF?!11!

Lol, fixed. Couldn't find any full screen shots of TAF playfield so I just threw in whatever I could dig up.

[rablack97]

TROUSERS MESSED!!!!!!!

[griffindodd]

TROUSERS MESSED!!!!!!!

 

Lol. Anyway..... ordered some J-Channel in black this morning, I got 2x 8ft strips this will provide channelling for the two pieces of glass for the backglass and playfield area and also hold the marquee in place. Also I got the router to the front of the frame to give myself a little wiggle room with the exact positioning of the main monitor. Because the position is so critical I have to be able to have the monitor rotate, match the angle of the top glass, be perfectly centered and align with the top monitor so it's really coming down to 16th's in every axis, but I have to admit I am enjoying the challenge of engineering this.

[griffindodd]

Purchased more goodies for the controller which will hopefully complete the parts list, man the controller has cost more than the entire rest of the cab, and that's with buying used parts. (Oh on that note you will all be relieved to know that I will be filling the 'cupholders' with custom made tokens for the coinslots so they will be more of an asthetic detail than somewhere to put drinks.)

So, the parts....

- 3" Electric Ice RGB conversion kit with translucent ball (took a gamble that I can use this on my Ultimarc trackball and PAC64 to drive the LEDs)
- A second PAC64 unit taking my RGB control options up to a total of 32 lights
- 10 more RGB buttons and switches bringing my lit RGB button count to 25 on the controller.

[rablack97]

(Oh on that note you will all be relieved to know that I will be filling the 'cupholders' with custom made tokens for the coinslots so they will be more of an asthetic detail than somewhere to put drinks.)

Good call, great idea..........

[griffindodd]

Just a little detail work today aligning the new angle of the main monitor and tweaking the position as tight as possible

monitor sits exactly 1/4 inch below the frame to allow for masking


very tight on rotation just the way I like it 


Also ordered the Griffin Powermate for volume control, a power socket and switch for the back of the cab, surface mounted outlet for inside and a few other bits and pieces