Newbie TV walkthrough, please!

[cool_factor]

Been researching til my eyes hurt....  Ive got MAME up and running on one of my PCs but now am going to make the leap to building a arcade cabinet and using a Toshiba 27a42 27" tv with either an ATI X600 or ATI HD4350 and the CVS-287 hack as described further up using GroovyMAME, the CRTemu_drivers, and I havent chosen a Front end yet, computer will be fine and have a stripped down XP install on it... I hope Im on the right path....

[rCadeGaming]

Thanks for tip.

No prob! 

My project is pretty much just on hold right now, because of the TV, and because of lack of funds.

Mine has been on hold indefinitely!  I WILL get it done someday though.  Hope you get back to it sometime. 

I hope Im on the right path....

Seems like it!   

TV:  This may work well, but I'd see if you can get into a service menu to correct geometry.
Graphics card:  HD4350.  An HD4xxx series card is required for Windows 7.
CVS-287:  Will work great as long as the cabling is wired correctly.
Front-End:  Couldn't tell you about them.  I know Calamity advises against Hyperspin.  Check the GM section for alternatives.
OS:  I would recommend 7 x64 from the standpoint of speed, stability, lag, driver/software/etc availability, better support moving forward

[ohnoes]

I have the exact TV as cool_factor mentioned, however I'm leaning towards getting an HD 4350 that has a 7-pin s-video, so I can use an s-video to component dongle to connect it to the TV. I've looked all over, and it seems using a 7-pin w/ a dongle did help a couple people connect their PCs to TVs, but I haven't been able to confirm if they've been able to use 15khz with that setup (the worry being that s-video out locks everything at 640x480i - but it's not the same as the 4-pin, so...). The card I'm looking at: https://www.visiontek.com/images/datasheets/900273.pdf and the dongle: https://www.visiontek.com/cables-accessories/for-pcs/7-pin-to-hdtv-component-cable-detail.html

It's been crazy researching this. Almost considering just getting a PC CRT monitor since that'd be the least complicated option, even if it's at the expense of losing 15khz.

Edit: It appears this person is going through a setup similar to mine and is going through the process of fixing it: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,143229.msg1485541.html#msg1485541

[rCadeGaming]

The s-video out will definitely lock you into 480i.  Not worth using in my opinion.  Also, stay away from Visiontek cards in general, as I think they've had reported problems with CRT_Emudriver.  I use ASUS HD4350's and they work great.

[Yeltsew7]

Also, the remote for that KV-27FS120 is busted. I don't know what's wrong with it.  I cleaned the contacts but no buttons work.  That kind of kills trying to get into the service menu. The universal remotes that I hve didn't have the right buttons to access it either.  Do you know of any way to get in to the service menu on that TV without the original remote?

[rCadeGaming]

Universal remotes probably won't work.  All the Sony remotes from that era were pretty interchangeable though.  I have the following remote models here, and they all work: RM-Y173, RM-Y194, RM-Y195, RM-Y197.  Just search any of those on eBay and pick one up cheap.  I like the first two because they're about half the size, and still have everything needed for the service menu.

[tiobolinha]

This is GREAT stuff here guys. It seems you have all the milestones ready for us to get native resolutions with component in CRT TVs.

I have a couple of questions though:

1) It seems that TC1500 and TC1600 a pretty impossible to find at resonable prices these days. Is CVS287 the ONLY option? I'd rather convert directly from VGA to component if possible. Are there any good options?

2) Is there a VGA-SCART cable available to be bought in ebay with the correct wiring? Just to make things easier? I don't think it will be easy to find SCART connectors in Brazilian electronic stores to build the cable in accordance with rCadeGaming scheme. We really don't use SCART in here. 

Guys i really appreciate all the help you are giving to make this dream real. I'm sick of distorced, streched images. I want to play my games the way I used to play in the 80's. It will be so great to make this thing work.

Thank you.

[rCadeGaming]

1.  The TC1600 and CVS-287 are the ones I've personally tested, and found to have quality results.  TC1600's are no longer being made because the enthusiast who was producing them, Kim Beumer, sadly passed away late last year.  I just found this out recently; very sad.  He was a great guy from what I knew of the quality of his work, support, and conversations via email.

...TC1600 a pretty impossible to find at resonable prices these days.

Do you mean you can find them at all?  Where?

Understand that the CVS-287 directly converts RGB to YPrPb component just the same as a TC1600.  Using SCART is a difference of connector style in this case, not a difference in video format.  It's probably not the of the same quality as a TC1600, but with the TV's and resolutions we're concerned with, I doubt I could tell the difference in a side-by-side comparison.

Another option is to build your own transcoder circuit with some specialized IC's.  I will be trying this eventually, and can provide links now if anyone is interested.

2.  Not that I know of.  We don't use SCART in the US either, but you can still buy an RGB SCART cable for an old game console to get the SCART connector you'll need to build the adapter.  That's what I did.

[mameCab123]

Ok I just got a Sony KV-24FV300 which looks good and limited to 480i.

Can I just cut up an existing vga cable I have and buy this?

http://www.amazon.com/1-5M-Scart-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B00BQBYDOG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1423944779&sr=1-1&keywords=scart+cable

Then use your diagram for vga > scart

Then buy this-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851

I already have a working computer with crt_emudriver outputting 15khz mame games into a arcade monitor.

Thanks for this thread, very exciting stuff for way cheaper than arcade monitors.

[rCadeGaming]

The transcoder looks right, it's a CVS-287 or clone.  The cable looks like it has the connector you want too.  Unscrew the nut, open the clamshell, and start soldering.

[tiobolinha]

Thank you for repplying guys.

I'll do what you said to build the cable. The diodes and VGA-RGB connectors should be easy to find in here.

I had found one TC in ebay a few weeks ago. I don't remember the exact model as I was researching like crazy those days. Anyway it's not there anymore.

I would be interested in building the conversor using the ICs you mentioned rCadeGaming. Do you already have a scheme for that?

Thank you.

[rCadeGaming]

I've attached the references I have on it.  See the following schematics:

Linear Technologies - LT1399 Applications.pdf:  Fig. 8, p.14 (pdf p.3)
Linear Technologies - Video Circuit Collection.pdf:  Fig. 15, p.8
Linear Technologies - Video Circuit Collection.pdf:  Fig. 16, p.9

You can also check the datasheets for any of the IC's shown.

Note that none of those three methods provide sync on luma on the output, so that will have to be added.  There's a note about this in the circuit collection pdf near the end of p.7.

[tiobolinha]

Thank you for your repplies rCadeGaming.

I found this hardware called UMSA at an european site. http://arcadeforge.net/UMSA/UMSA-Ultimate-SCART-Adapter::57.html

This would be an alternative for the SCART - VGA cable we are building. Right?

I already bought the SCART cables to be racked in ebay. Unfortunatelly it takes like a month for then to get here as they come from the U.K.

rCadeGaming: I have a doubt about the scheme you put in this post. Some people say the diodes are not necessary, some people say they are and others say they are optional but the image will look better with then. Could you explain?

Thank you again. I can't wait for my cables to arrive!
Regards

[dmckean]

So which 19/20 inch Sony TVs should I be looking for on Craigslist? Most people on this thread seem to be using 24-27" monitors.

[rCadeGaming]

I found this hardware called UMSA at an european site. http://arcadeforge.net/UMSA/UMSA-Ultimate-SCART-Adapter::57.html

This would be an alternative for the SCART - VGA cable we are building. Right?

That may work if you use it like this:

PC -> VGA cable -> UMSA -> SCART cable -> CVS-287

To me, it's a lot simpler to make the adapter.

rCadeGaming: I have a doubt about the scheme you put in this post. Some people say the diodes are not necessary, some people say they are and others say they are optional but the image will look better with then. Could you explain?

I made that schematic before I had a full understanding about combining sync.  I did test it with a CVS-287, and it worked, but it seems like some other people here are having trouble reproducing the same results.  Now that I have an oscilloscope to see what's actually going on, I can see that that method doesn't produce very good results.  When dealing with negative sync pulses (typical VGA output) it is best to combine them with an XOR gate and then invert the output.  Even better, this circuit, based on a single 74LS86 quad XOR chip, works regardless of the polarity of either horizontal or vertical sync:



In any case, if you don't want to take it that far, just connecting the two lines together will probably work ok as a quick and dirty method only for use with the CVS-287.  The schematic I posted has been updated to remove the diodes.

So which 19/20 inch Sony TVs should I be looking for on Craigslist? Most people on this thread seem to be using 24-27" monitors.

Any model with component inputs should work, as long as it doesn't support higher than 480i.  All of the ones I've seen were 15kHz only (what you want).  Post the model number of any specific set you're looking at to confirm.

[tiobolinha]

I already built the cable with the two diodes. I'll test it like this and if it doesn't work I'll remove the diodes.

I didn't understand what you said about the combining circuit. Is there a ready IC to make the composite sync? If so, what's the model?

Thank you.

[tiobolinha]

In any case, if you don't want to take it that far, just connecting the two lines together will probably work ok as a quick and dirty method only for use with the CVS-287.  The schematic I posted has been updated to remove the diodes.

rCadeGaming You're right. I had to get rid of the diodes to make the cable work.

I got image! (hey!)

But the image has a lot of noise (like bad contact noise), some shadows going up and down and some distorcion on the uper part of the screen.

Does this look like poor welding on the cable?

That SCART connector is a b***c to weld on. Is there any easier way to sold on it? In the original cable it seems like the wires were simply clipped so I wonder if the pins come out. If they do it would be SO MUCH EASIER to make the cable. Does anyone knows if the pins come out?

EDIT: I figure out how to pull the pins from the SCART cable. That will make the task MUCH MUCH easier. I encourage everyone to do the same. It's easy: The SCART pins are clipped and then inserted into the main connector. When the pins are fully inserted they click because they have a small spring. To remove the pins press the spring with a very small driver (clock type) until it bends back and touch the pin. Push the pin and it will deepen into the connector. After your release the pin push the spring back to the original position so it will click again when you reinsert it into the connector.

Thank you.

[Amra]

 I concur on building a sync combiner circuit for this arrangement.  I build one similar to the version you referenced, though I modified mine slightly so that I could integrate a 15 Pin D-Sub VGA input directly into the CVS287. I also integrated a 7805 regulator to the circuit and tapped directly off the 12v supply coming into the CVS287 to power it. 

The sync combiner made a HUGE difference in quality. I tried the diodes at first and they did not work for me at all.  I then tried twisting both the wires together, and it worked but the top 1/4 of the screen was wonky and skewed to the right. With the sync combiner I get a beautiful crisp picture with almost zero artifacts (some slight color and geometry issues, but those can be adjusted using the trimmers on the CVS287 and the TV service menu). This is using a Radeon 9600PRO AGP with CRTEmudriver 6.3 on a Sony KV27FS100. 

One thing that surprised me is that I can display 480i with this device. I had it in 240P while I was testing things, and needed to switch to a different monitor to work on setting up windows, mala, groovymame, etc, as windows is a pain to navigate and use when in 240p, but when I selected 640x480@60hz, it changed and displayed fine (though with the familiar 30hz flicker, meaning its in 640i, not 640p). I had assumed I would only be able to display very low resolutions with this arrangement.  Do you think I would have any issues running at 480i for a prolonged period of time on this setup? Is that a bad idea? Just curious if I can work on setting everything up (windows, groovymame, etc) while using this device, or if I should do all the setup on a separate monitor and only connect the TV after getting everything functioning properly.

One thing I  think I will do is add a heatsink to the 7805 in the CVS287, it seems to get quite hot. I had originally tapped directly off the 5v regulator in the CVS287 for the sync circuit given the power draw should be negligible, but given how hot it was already running I figured its wasn't a good idea to increase the current draw any more.

Just wanted to say thanks for all the information you've provided in this thread, its been quite useful. 

I made my arcade machine a long time ago, and used composite input on a TV with a scan-do 1024 in 640i, and it worked fine, but that 30hz flickering can drove you nuts if you stare at it long enough. 
This is a much needed change, the difference in quality is night and day, and the best part is that I get to keep my sanity. 

[tiobolinha]

I made that schematic before I had a full understanding about combining sync.  I did test it with a CVS-287, and it worked, but it seems like some other people here are having trouble reproducing the same results.  Now that I have an oscilloscope to see what's actually going on, I can see that that method doesn't produce very good results.  When dealing with negative sync pulses (typical VGA output) it is best to combine them with an XOR gate and then invert the output.  Even better, this circuit, based on a single 74LS86 quad XOR chip, works regardless of the polarity of either horizontal or vertical sync:



In any case, if you don't want to take it that far, just connecting the two lines together will probably work ok as a quick and dirty method only for use with the CVS-287.  The schematic I posted has been updated to remove the diodes.

rCadeGaming I got image by removing the diodes but my cable seems to poorly welded. I'll make a new one (thankfully I got TWO SCART cables from UK). I figured out how to remove the pins from the SCART connector so now I'll be able to make a much better job.

Amra said the quality of the image will improve greatly if we build the sync combiner circuit so I'll try to build one.

I'm a Dummy with electronic circuits so I'll ask help. Be aware that my questions might be stupid. I already apologize for my ignorance.   

1) I have to feed power to the circuit. I understand that I can pull 5v from the computer (that white 4 pin power conector we use for Hard Drives). Every ground mark on your schematic has to be connected to the ground black wire of the same power source. Correct?

2) I made a component list from your schematic just to make sure I'll get everything I need. Could you please take a look?

    - 4 x 74LS86 XOR ports
    - 2 x 22 uF capacitors
    - 2 x 2k2 resistors
    - 1 x female computer power plug (to connect 5v from the PC's power source)

3) I understand that the resistors can be connected either way and the capacitors have to be connected + to the circuit and - to ground. Is that correct?

4) I'll have to ground the the Hsync, Vsync, Composite Sync wires and both capacitors. All to the black pole of the power source. Correct?


I'll really appreciate your help.

Thank you.

[tiobolinha]

Guys,

What about this schematic that was pulled out from a RGB to SCART-TV cable?

They claim that using a 75 ohm shielded cable and the 1k resistors for the sync will greatly improve the image quality. Has anyone tried that?

Thank you!

[tiobolinha]

Guys,

Does this look like a good schematic for a TOP quality RGB-SCART converter to use with the CVS287?

Your comments will be highly appreciated.
Thank you.

[Amra]

I've not tried the double resistor solution, so I'm not sure how it compares to the other options presented thus far. You could always give it a go and let us know how it goes! 

That schematic you've got looks fine, they've switched a couple of the gates around compared to the version rCade linked, but that really shouldn't matter. Personally, I did it with the output on pin 11, primarily so that I could just bridge pins 14 and 13 for the +5, eliminating an additional jumper wire. It was simpler that way, but mainly because I made mine on a protoboard.

I think you could simplify things a bit further though if you are using the CVS287, because all of the grounds are electrically identical inside the device anyways. You can bridge pins 5, 6, 7, 8, 10 from the 15 pin DSub and connect it to any single one of the ground pins for the SCART connector going into the CVS287 (pin 21, 18, 17, 13, 9, or 5).  For mine, I just connected all the grounds together and connected them to pin 21.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes!

[rCadeGaming]

1) I have to feed power to the circuit. I understand that I can pull 5v from the computer (that white 4 pin power conector we use for Hard Drives). Every ground mark on your schematic has to be connected to the ground black wire of the same power source. Correct?

Yes, but see answer to question 4.

2) I made a component list from your schematic just to make sure I'll get everything I need. Could you please take a look?

    - 4 x 74LS86 XOR ports
    - 2 x 22 uF capacitors
    - 2 x 2k2 resistors
    - 1 x female computer power plug (to connect 5v from the PC's power source)

I'm guessing from your schematic that you realized the 4 XOR ports are contained on a single IC.  The rest looks good.  You'll also want to add a 0.1uF capacitor (again see answer to question 4).

3) I understand that the resistors can be connected either way and the capacitors have to be connected + to the circuit and - to ground. Is that correct?

Yes, although some don't have a polarity, in which case you don't need to worry about that.  This is the case with some film capacitors, which I'd recommend at least for the 0.1uF cap.

4) I'll have to ground the the Hsync, Vsync, Composite Sync wires and both capacitors. All to the black pole of the power source. Correct?

This is the problem with your schematic.  You can't ground the H and V inputs or the C output because then they'll be pulled low and the circuit won't do anything.  Notice in the schematic I posted that the ground symbols aren't connected to the signal path itself, but a rather a circle that goes around it.  This indicates that the cable shielding (in the case that there is any) should be grounded.

You could also use a decoupling capacitor very close to the 5V input on the IC.  This will help to isolate it from noise.  A corrected schematic is attached.

What about this schematic that was pulled out from a RGB to SCART-TV cable?

They claim that using a 75 ohm shielded cable and the 1k resistors for the sync will greatly improve the image quality. Has anyone tried that?

Between a straight connection, two diodes, or two resistors, the two resistors might give the best results.  I haven't tried it personally.  The best bet is a proper combining circuit.  The problem with bowing at the top of the screen is caused by horizontal sync being held low for about three lines by the vertical pulse when they're not combined properly.  This momentary loss of horizontal sync can allow the display's horizontal rate to drift, which is seen as the first few lines having a horizontal shift until it locks back in.  Whether or not the display will lock back up to the correct horizontal rate before anything is noticeable on screen depends on the amount of overscan, the duration of the vertical back porch, and the nature of the display's sync circuitry.

[Amra]

I modified your circuit to be a bit simpler, I went ahead and added the extra protection/filtering cap that rCade put on his.  Its a good idea to add one, especially if you have a noisy Power Supply such as a wal-wart, as it should send most of the noise to ground, I didn't add one on mine, but mine is run from a linear regulator and uses the filtering cap on the CVS287 itself.

[rCadeGaming]

Very nice. 

[Amra]

Very nice. 

Ty Sir, every little bit helps!

[tiobolinha]

Between a straight connection, two diodes, or two resistors, the two resistors might give the best results.  I haven't tried it personally.  The best bet is a proper combining circuit.  The problem with bowing at the top of the screen is caused by horizontal sync being held low for about three lines by the vertical pulse when they're not combined properly.  This momentary loss of horizontal sync can allow the display's horizontal rate to drift, which is seen as the first few lines having a horizontal shift until it locks back in.  Whether or not the display will lock back up to the correct horizontal rate before anything is noticeable on screen depends on the amount of overscan, the duration of the vertical back porch, and the nature of the display's sync circuitry.

I've not tried the double resistor solution, so I'm not sure how it compares to the other options presented thus far. You could always give it a go and let us know how it g oes! 

Good luck, and let us know how it goes!

I bulit a second cable with shielded 75 ohns cables for each YUV signal and the quality of the image is PERFECT. I noticed that the SCART connector I got don't accept the welding alloy (mine is made of tin). It simply don't stick in the pins material. I took the pins out and clipped the cables.

After I hooked the cable and the CVS287 I got native resolutions right away and it looks awsome. It even feels different.

Mortal Kombat looks amazing!!!

The sync signals are just straightly connected. I'll test the same cable with the two 1k resistors and later with the sync circuit Amra showed in his last post. I'll comment the results.

Right now I have crispy image in some games (MK for instance). Others have that distortion to the left on the upper quarter of the screen rCadeGaming talked about (Robocop, Double Dragon). Other games doesn't work and just give me a blue screen (Popeye for instance).

I didn't start to mess up with the software yet. I'm just running standard MAME (not GroovyMAME) with 15 khz generated by CRT_Emudriver. I'm pretty sure the games are already showing native resolutions. I can see the scanlines and the dots very clearly!!

Thank you guys. I'll report my accomplishments soon!

[rCadeGaming]

Nice.  Yeah, that distortion definitely due to the straight connection on the sync lines.  Can you try the two resistor method first and let us know if that fixes it?

You should still switch to GroovyMAME, there are a million little reasons.

[tiobolinha]

Nice.  Yeah, that distortion definitely due to the straight connection on the sync lines.  Can you try the two resistor method first and let us know if that fixes it?

You should still switch to GroovyMAME, there are a million little reasons.

I'll start the software part as soon as I'm done with the hardware. I'm pretty sure there's a LOT of things I can do to pimp up my new home arcade. Getting GroovyMame will be the first thing.

I tried the two 1k resistors. No image.   

I already got all the components to build the sync circuit. I'll need a few days as my soldering skills aren't the best.

I have one question: Why there are some games that aren't showing any image (ex: popeye, TMNT, Space Invaders, Karate Champ, ...). Is that software related or maybe it has something to do with the sync method?

I'll keep your guys updated.

[Amra]

I have one question: Why there are some games that aren't showing any image (ex: popeye, TMNT, Space Invaders, Karate Champ, ...). Is that software related or maybe it has something to do with the sync method?

I suppose its possible something to do with sync, but that seems unlikely if other games with similar modelines are working properly, that said, I do know that popeye runs at an uncommonly high resolution for its age ( 512 x 448 ), which may cause problems, as 512x448@60hz would require a 24khz monitor, un-displayable on a 15khz monitor. Atari got around this by dropping the refresh rate to 30hz, meaning the original popeye game was interlaced and therefore could be displayed on a 15khz monitor. This could be causing problems if its trying to display on modline that can't be displayed on a 15khz system (i.e. 512 x 448 @ 60hz).

[tiobolinha]

Nice.  Yeah, that distortion definitely due to the straight connection on the sync lines.  Can you try the two resistor method first and let us know if that fixes it?

You should still switch to GroovyMAME, there are a million little reasons.

As I told you before the two 1k resistors gave me no image at all.

I just got the sync circuit done. Distortion in the upper third of the screen is gone but I feel that I have a little bit of noise in the middle of the screen. Maybe it's because I'm geting 5v from my (cheap) computer power supply and I didn't include the 0.1 uF capacitor in the circuit (I had already bought the components when you updated the circuit).

Maybe including it would solve the noise? What else can I do? What about those 6 variable resistors (orange / yellow swicthes) inside the CVS287? Do they do anything?

Thank you!

Thank you

[Amra]

I just got the sync circuit done. Distortion in the upper third of the screen is gone but I feel that I have a little bit of noise in the middle of the screen. Maybe it's because I'm geting 5v from my (cheap) computer power supply and I didn't include the 0.1 uF capacitor in the circuit (I had already bought the components when you updated the circuit).

Maybe including it would solve the noise? What else can I do? What about those 6 variable resistors (orange / yellow swicthes) inside the CVS287? Do they do anything?

That extra cap might help, as it takes stray ac (such as noise/ripple) and allows it to go to ground instead of the circuit.

The trimmers inside the CVS287 can be adjusted, but I believe most of them adjust color in some way, there are a couple videos on youtube that tutorial how to get proper color reproduction using the trimmer pots inside.  rCade certainly has more experience with the device than most, so perhaps he can provide more information in that regard.

[rCadeGaming]

Not sure about that noise, but the filter cap is definitely worth a try.  The 6 pots in the CVS-287 adjust high and low cutoff levels for red, green, and blue.  Use the test patterns I've posted in this thread.

[tiobolinha]

Guys,

You have been helping me so much and finally I'll have the chance to give something in return!

I made contact with this guy from Mercado Livre (Brazilian ebay) who is making those plug and play RGB - Component conversors specifically for 15 Khz emulation!

http://mlb-s1-p.mlstatic.com/conversor-vga-pc-p-video-componente-tv-crt-22991-MLB20239375310_022015-F.jpg

I bought one a few days ago for R$ 150,00 + R$ 22,00 shipment (arround $60 USD). It worked like a charm!! No more cables, no SCARTs in the middle. Just plug and play as long as your GPU is hacked to send 15 khz signal trough the VGA port.

I don't know if Johnny, the guy who makes those conversors, speaks english. anyway if anyone is interested in testing one of those bad boys I'll be glad to help.

This is great news. Finally we have an option for the CVS289!!

What do you think rCadeGaming?

Regards!

[rCadeGaming]

Looks awesome.  Are those pots for color adjustment?

Where do you buy them?

[tiobolinha]

Looks awesome.  Are those pots for color adjustment?

Where do you buy them?

A guy named Johnny Sierascky makes those. He told me it's his own schematic.

He's selling those at the brazilian ebay, called "Mercado Livre". There's where I bought mine. There goes the link (it's in portuguese but you can check out the pictures):

http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-645831813-conversor-vga-pc-p-video-componente-tv-crt-_JM

The pots are for RGB adjustment.

Johnny told me he just build a "bridge" from RGB to Component without any further processing in the image which is PERFECT for us. Right?

Mine worked perfectly just out-of-the-box. Perfect image: Good colours, no lines, no noises, no distortions what so ever.

There goes some pictures Johnny linked to the ad. Those are not from my system but mine looks just as good.

https://plus.google.com/photos/+JohnnySierascky/albums/5981443038402329889

Regards.

[Amra]

That looks like a very elegant solution, if you own one and can take and don't mind taking a look, are there any markings on that single inline dip package directly behind the power input connector? Im curious what method he's using to convert the signal.  It looks like a minimal amount of signal processing, and that's a good thing! Thanks for posting!

[tiobolinha]

Hi Amra,

That looks like a very elegant solution, if you own one and can take and don't mind taking a look, are there any markings on that single inline dip package directly behind the power input connector? Im curious what method he's using to convert the signal.  It looks like a minimal amount of signal processing, and that's a good thing! Thanks for posting!

It's surely a direct bridge between RGB and Component. Pretty much what rCadeGaming is planing to do I wonder.

I had the same curiosity and did take a look. Unfortunately all the ICs are blanked (IDs scrathed) and the actual circuit is convered with a stick. Anyway I'll send some pictures. Maybe you can spot something.

Regards.

[Amra]

It's surely a direct bridge between RGB and Component. Pretty much what rCadeGaming is planing to do I wonder.

I had the same curiosity and did take a look. Unfortunately all the ICs are blanked (IDs scrathed) and the actual circuit is convered with a stick. Anyway I'll send some pictures. Maybe you can spot something.

I appreciate you taking a look! Scratching off the part numbers is a pretty common practice, its suppose to help prevent people from copying/reverse engineering the circuit, but unless its a custom IC it really just adds a couple extra steps in the process.

[tiobolinha]

Amra,

There you go!