Newbie TV walkthrough, please!

[the720k]

Well, it turns out the X300 I thought I had was a 6670, but I did have an old Radeon 7500 PCI, and that worked fine with CRT_Emudriver.  I barely scratched the surface with experimenting with different modelines outside of trying every preset modeline in Arcade_OSD.  Not one single stable image so far, but I kind of expected this going into it.  I'll be re-reading the threads and trying some of the ideas posted there to see if I can make any difference, along with tweaking the pots on the board. 

I can say that I did adjust one of the unmarked pots on the transcoder, and I did see that it had an effect on the sync.  Adjusting it somewhat stabilized a 640x240 modeline, but not by much.  I'll try to get some pictures taken tonight or tomorrow and show anyone who cares what I mean.  Oddly enough, adjusting the rest of the pots had no effect on the colors, so I'm not quite sure what their functions are.  I'll be experimenting with them a little more tonight.

wordsworth:  I see what you mean about this box being unlikely to work outside of its intended specs (the STB it was designed for.)  Still, though, I wonder if any stability can occur with enough tweaking of the onboard pots and Arcade_OSD settings.  Even if there is a required hardware mod to make it happen, I wonder if it could be done.

So it does look like it'll be a little while before I get to enjoy native resolutions on this gorgeous TV, but even with composite S-video, the picture blows regular RCA composite out of the water.  Scanlines and all.  But if it can be better, dammit, I'm determined to make it so sooner or later.

[rCadeGaming]

The 7500 is supported, but may have problems with low dotclocks.  Sounds like you understand the issue if you're trying 640x240, but it will limit the range of modelines you can test and it might add another confounding variable if it's not clear what the minimum safe frequency is.  Best to use one of the preferred cards if possible.

[rCadeGaming]

Answered some questions about refresh rate, resolutions, and timing values.  Thought I should post a link here for archiving purposes:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,138486.0.html

[the720k]

Very cool.  Thanks, man.  I'm probably going to be working out in the garage tonight, so I'll see if I can work on it some more this evening.  Understood on the issue with the 7500.  I have several HD 4000 series cards, but they're all dead.  I may be able to get my hands on one that needs to be replaced in the next couple days. 

[MeatballB]

I finally got back to my Arcade project and I've got just about everything setup and running, but I've run into a problem with distortion of my video image on my TV.  Here's my setup.

VGA Output on a Connect 3D Radeon x300 PCI Card (Model 3003)
 ->
VGA Monitor Cable
 ->
Crescendo Systems TC1500 Transcoder
 ->
RGB Component Cable In through Video 4 Jacks
 ->
KV-27FS120 TV Decased and mounted in a frame I built...

I've got WinXP 64 and the 9.3 Catalyst version of the CRT_Emudriver installed.  I've got the machine and Front End and everything up and working fine, but when I boot up attached to the Sony I get all sorts of distortion (ranging from 4 duplicate squished desktops across the screen to a completely diagonally offset image)  depending on the resolution I try.  I can't go lower than 800x600 but if I go into the driver settings I can list all modes and have also tied 720x480 and 640x480 with no luck (all at 60Hz).

Am I missing a step with resolution somewhere or do I possibly have a bad component somewhere in the mix?  My gut is telling me I need to push the resolution lower, but I can't for the life of me find anywhere to get it lower than 640x480

[Timstuff]

A cheaper option than either of those, but one that still works very well, is a CVS-287 RGB SCART to component transcoder:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YPbPr-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/370695549217?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item564f2d3121

These work well, I have tested one personally.  However, to use it you'll have to make a VGA to SCART adapter.  If you can solder, it's very easy.  Just get a female VGA connector (also called a female DB-15HD) and hood, and a male SCART connector and hood.  Look up the VGA and SCART pinouts, connect red to red, green to green, blue to blue, and ground to ground.  Horizontal and vertical sync from the VGA connector must be combined to make composite sync.  This is done by running each through a 1N4148 diode and connecting them together.  Then connect that to the composite sync connection in the SCART connector.

If I get one of those SCART to YPbPr converters, would I be able to get by with a pre-made SCART to VGA cable like the one below, or is making a cable myself the only option?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/SCART-TO-VGA-LEAD-PIN/dp/B001GUJBQ2/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1396674842&sr=1-2&keywords=scart+to+vga

I can handle wiring up a cable myself if I have to, although I would prefer being able to buy one since it's a more elegant solution and less hassle.

[MeatballB]

Am I missing a step with resolution somewhere or do I possibly have a bad component somewhere in the mix?  My gut is telling me I need to push the resolution lower, but I can't for the life of me find anywhere to get it lower than 640x480

Well, I partially figured out my issue.  Since my card has a VGA and DVI port I'm guessing the DVI port is considered the 'primary' port because I threw a DVI/VGA adapter on that port and used to to connect to the Sony and the distortion went away.

I am still getting some 'jittering' of the picture and the image is a bit off center though.  Plus I think when I decased it I might have disconnected the remote sensor.  I can point the remote at the back boards and it works, but I can't seem to see where the actual sensor is.  I'd like to fish that to the front of the tube so I can use it without having to pop the TV out.

[Yeltsew7]

However, to use it you'll have to make a VGA to SCART adapter.  If you can solder, it's very easy.  Just get a female VGA connector (also called a female DB-15HD) and hood, and a male SCART connector and hood.  Look up the VGA and SCART pinouts, connect red to red, green to green, blue to blue, and ground to ground.  Horizontal and vertical sync from the VGA connector must be combined to make composite sync.  This is done by running each through a 1N4148 diode and connecting them together.  Then connect that to the composite sync connection in the SCART connector.

I have been doing a little research about combining the sync wires.

Would this http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/scartdd.png work for the VGA -> SCART adapter, or does it have to be more complicated like this http://www.epanorama.net/circuits/syncbox.gif ?  Why does the first one have so many diodes and stuff?  I don't know much about this sort of thing, so I am asking a lot of obvious questions probably.

Also, the sticky (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,77370.0.html) doesn't say anything about diodes or anything for the sync.  What it does say is that you need to add power.  Does this only apply when you are plugging it right in, not with the transcoder?

Finally, since I am lazy and don't know much about electrical wiring, would one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-RGB-ARCADEVGA-TO-SCART-CABLE-ADAPTER-EUROCONECTOR-for-JAMMA-system-/331166305955?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1b0ccea3
or these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scart-to-VGA-SVGA-Male-Female-Projector-Plasma-HD-Cable-1M-1-5M-1-8M-2M-2-5M-3M-/330701716131?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item4cff5bbaa3
or these http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-RGB-TO-SCART-2-METERS-SOUND-JACK-EUROCONECTOR-for-JAMMA-ARCADE-system-/331169858050?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1b430202 work?

If so, which one would be best?

[adder]

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,77370.0.html doesn't say anything about diodes or anything for the sync.

you dont need to use any diodes
sync: the way the cable is wired up means it is composite sync

What it does say is that you need to add power.  Does this only apply when you are plugging it right in, not with the transcoder?

for plugging directly into tv scart socket yes. i cant answer about transcoders as i dont use them
the power (between 9.5v to 12v) which is sent to scart pin 8 tells the tv to go into AV mode
the power (between 1v and 3v) which is sent to scart pin 16 tells the tv we want RGB mode

Finally, since I am lazy and don't know much about electrical wiring, would one of these do:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-RGB-ARCADEVGA-TO-SCART-CABLE-ADAPTER-EUROCONECTOR-for-JAMMA-system-/331166305955?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1b0ccea3

as long as he has wired it up correctly, yes. perhaps email him first and ask what wiring diagram he used.
i would expect he is using a 100ohm resistor in the circuit (to get the approx 2v needed for scart pin 16). i wouldnt worry about diodes, my cable doesnt use any, and has worked on about 10 completely different scart tv brands/chassis (examples, sony trinitron, panasonic, toshiba, sharp, ferguson, beko, bush, and some others). the colours/image sharpness/quality looks great (to me anyway ), and is stable etc

ps. if you do use one of these cables, personally i needed to do two things in windows xp in order for it to work properly:

1. you have to tell your ATI gfx card to output composite sync, as it wont be by default. you can do this by selecting the composite sync output checkbox in the catalyst control center, or instead, just download and run a program called winmodelines; for the tickbox which says, CSYNC VGA1 VGA2, tick the VGA1 box, apply and reboot. a change is made to registry, and your ati gfx setup in your pc will now be running in composite sync mode

2. (i had to do this, i dont know if others have to also) .. for all my modelines, example:
Modeline "320x224@57.6Hz 15.7KHz (58Hz)" 6.630 320 336 368 424 224 239 242 272 -hsync -vsync
i have to change the -hsync and -vsync to +hsync and +vsync in order to get the correct picture on my tv. not sure why.  perhaps some people have to do this and others dont. i would say if you are not getting a stable/working picture, try it. one easy way to do it all at once is, when you have all the modelines added to your registry which you want to use: launch the winmodelines program, and you will see the list of all of your modelines. highlight and select them all, choose 'cut' so they are removed from the window. now press 'apply' in winmodelines so they are removed but still safe in your windows clipboard. now (hoping at this point you dont get a power failure)... open a new text document in windows, paste all the modelines you 'cut' earlier, then.. do a find and replace.. search for:
-hsync -vsync
 .. choose to replace with:
+hsync +vsync
  .. now, from the new text file, copy and paste those fixed modelines back into the winmodelines window, choose 'apply' ... reboot. done.

ps. Rob why do our posts end up so long      

[rCadeGaming]

Meatball, the components in your chain are excellent (barring any issues with which is the primary display port) so it must be a software problem.

The IR receiver for the remote is located on the little PCB with the front buttons.  It should be easy to relocate, I'll be needing to do that on my cabinet.

Can you describe what you mean by jittering?

[rCadeGaming]

Tim, I can't say whether that cable will work without knowing how it's wired inside.  It depends how it handles sync.  You need a VGA to SCART cable which just combines H and V to make composite sync.  A true SCART to VGA cable would use a sync separator to split composite back into H and V.

[rCadeGaming]

Yeltsew, those diagrams are for creating perfectly combined sync with the exact right levels and pulse widths and all that.  Most displays/processors are not that picky though. 

Sometimes you can get away with just connecting the H and V sync wires directly together.  As Jadder says, the diodes might not be totally necessary, I just used them for an extra bit of protection.  If you combine the H and V sync wires you shouldn't need to tell the computer to output composite sync though.  Jadder, if you do, it could be due to the separate sync signals not being combined well enough, i.e. not using the diodes.

One of those VGA to SCART cables may work depending on how it handles sync combination.  You don't need to provide any power to the switching pins for this transcoder.  As Jadder says, that's for actual SCART TV's. 

You also won't need to output positive-going sync with this transcoder, negative-going is generally standard.

ps. Rob why do our posts end up so long      

I guess because this stuff is interesting and we can't help but ramble on about it.   

[Yeltsew7]

What if I tell it to output composite sync, would that be more stable than combing the wires physically twisting them together?  Also, where do you think I should pick up a male SCART end piece?

[rCadeGaming]

No, not if you use the diodes.  They're super cheap.  The trouble of getting composite sync in all of your modelines isn't worth saving two diodes, and you might not even be able to get composite sync out of some graphics cards.

I run all my old game consoles in RGB using RGB SCART cables, but I chop off the SCART ends and replace them with DB-15HD ("VGA") connectors, so I ended up with plenty of spare male connectors.  They have nice easy to open hoods and nice solder-able connection points.  I get all my SCART cables from this eBay seller:

http://www.ebay.com/usr/retro_console_accessories

If you're not interested in RGB cables for consoles, this the cheapest thing I could find:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5M-Black-20-Pin-Scart-Male-to-Male-Connector-Cable-/310642636469?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item4853be76b5

That would probably work just as well, it looks like the same type of housing.

[Yeltsew7]

Combine syncs like this, just instead of resistors use those diodes?
http://www.geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc/vga2euro.gif

What if I get this and just chop off the end? Would that work for a SCART hood?
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=111321450935

[Yeltsew7]

Remember that Phillips TV from my thread?  Well the service menu is crap.  I have been looking for a Sony.  I found a KV-27FS100. Is this suitable for MAME or should I look for a KV-27FS120?  Here is the link http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/ele/4408946997.html

[rCadeGaming]

Combine syncs like this, just instead of resistors use those diodes?
http://www.geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc/vga2euro.gif

Yup, use 1N4148 diodes and make sure the negative side (cathode, the side with the stripe) is connected to the Y connection.

What if I get this and just chop off the end? Would that work for a SCART hood?
http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=111321450935

Yeah, looks like the same clam shell setup as the ones I have.  You unscrew the plastic nut where the wire comes out and the clam shell will unfold.

Remember that Phillips TV from my thread?  Well the service menu is crap.  I have been looking for a Sony.  I found a KV-27FS100. Is this suitable for MAME or should I look for a KV-27FS120?  Here is the link http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/ele/4408946997.html

I haven't used one of those personally, but it's likely very similar to a KV-27FS120, it's just one chassis model earlier (BA-5 vs. BA-6).  It's worth picking up to try.

[Yeltsew7]

This?

or this?

I hope these are clear.

[rCadeGaming]

First one.  Nothing wrong with being explicitly clear.

[Yeltsew7]

I got a KV-27FS120!  It has a few issues, black bars on the sides (which could be nothing) and it is slightly clearer in the middle, just enough to drive me crazy.  I'm sure nothing I can't fix. I will start a thread about it tomorrow.

[rCadeGaming]

Try the focus knob.   

[Yeltsew7]

Where is that?  Is it on the chassis?  I haven't decased it yet.

pardon my stupidity

[rCadeGaming]

It's on the chassis on the flyback.  Be careful sticking your hands in there while it's running.

[Yeltsew7]

My friend made the mistake of poking around inside one while it was on. 

Also, I posted a thread in this forum with some pictures/videos of it.

[Dungeonsdeep]

This thread has been very helpful for a newbie like myself. I have a question though.

Let's say I decide to ditch my worn out arcade monitor (it's BAD), and go with a CRT television. If I don't go for one of the Sony newer flat models mentioned earlier in the thread, and just use any old CRT base model Sanyo, Panasonic...whatever, via COMPOSITE; How bad will the picture quality be? I mean, will it just plain suck? Would I be better off using an LCD?

I am scouring Craigslist for these Sony flat tube with components, and believe I found a few, but it's hard to be certain, so I am contemplating just using any old thing that comes my way.

Thanks again!

[rCadeGaming]

Yes, it will just plain suck.  A CRT driven with composite will still have the advantage of less input lag than an LCD, but you aren't nearly using the potential of the CRT.  Keep in mind that a PC over composite is much worse than an old console over composite, because in the case of the PC you'll be locked into scaling everything to 480i@60Hz.  Not only will you be losing native res, scanlines, etc., you'll have the additional issues caused by failing to match the games' native refresh rates.  (If composite is even an option, I'm assuming this is a MAME cab you're talking about?)

You can get what you need on Craigslist.  Just hold out for a 15kHz tube with component inputs.  Don't pay over $50.

Also, what's wrong with the arcade monitor?  Could it be fixed, or is it badly burned-in?

[Dungeonsdeep]

Yes, it will just plain suck.  A CRT driven with composite will still have the advantage of less input lag than an LCD, but you aren't nearly using the potential of the CRT.  Keep in mind that a PC over composite is much worse than an old console over composite, because in the case of the PC you'll be locked into scaling everything to 480i@60Hz.  Not only will you be losing native res, scanlines, etc., you'll have the additional issues caused by failing to match the games' native refresh rates.  (If composite is even an option, I'm assuming this is a MAME cab you're talking about?)

You can get what you need on Craigslist.  Just hold out for a 15kHz tube with component inputs.  Don't pay over $50.

Also, what's wrong with the arcade monitor?  Could it be fixed, or is it badly burned-in?

I just realized you responded, rCade. And thank you for that.

I actually traded the cab that had the monitor in it with a forum member here. I wanted to make a MAME cab. He had a SFII cab, I had an old Williams cab he wanted to restore, so it was happy on both sides. The current cab doesn't have a monitor, but from what I have read, arcade monitors are finicky with MAME, because of the different resolutions of games. Which is why I thought maybe a TV would be a better route.

If I get a TV, and just use component inputs WITHOUT an expensive transcoder, will it look bad? Thanks!

[rCadeGaming]

Arcade monitors can be set up just as well as a TV for MAME.  The downside is just the expense.  When you say you've heard they can be finicky, I think you might be referring to the danger of feeding them out of range signals.  There are several solutions to protect yourself from this, and the problematic resolutions are usually from BIOS and the default Windows desktop.  You wouldn't have problems getting an arcade monitor to display the actual arcade games in MAME.

If I get a TV, and just use component inputs WITHOUT an expensive transcoder, will it look bad?

The question is how you will use the component inputs without a transcoder.  Although it's theoretically possible there are graphics cards with a component TV-out port capable of displaying custom resolutions, no one here has yet confirmed the existence of one.  Your picture will be clearer and cleaner than composite, but you'll still be scaling everything to 480i or 480p or more, and have all the same problems as mentioned before (losing native res, losing scanlines, additional issues caused by incorrect refresh rate, etc.)

The transcoder doesn't have to be expensive.  Look back two or three pages in this thread and find my post on the current availability of transcoders for a cheap but effective option.

[Dungeonsdeep]

Arcade monitors can be set up just as well as a TV for MAME.  The downside is just the expense.  When you say you've heard they can be finicky, I think you might be referring to the danger of feeding them out of range signals.  There are several solutions to protect yourself from this, and the problematic resolutions are usually from BIOS and the default Windows desktop.  You wouldn't have problems getting an arcade monitor to display the actual arcade games in MAME.

If I get a TV, and just use component inputs WITHOUT an expensive transcoder, will it look bad?

The question is how you will use the component inputs without a transcoder.  Although it's theoretically possible there are graphics cards with a component TV-out port capable of displaying custom resolutions, no one here has yet confirmed the existence of one.  Your picture will be clearer and cleaner than composite, but you'll still be scaling everything to 480i or 480p or more, and have all the same problems as mentioned before (losing native res, losing scanlines, additional issues caused by incorrect refresh rate, etc.)

The transcoder doesn't have to be expensive.  Look back two or three pages in this thread and find my post on the current availability of transcoders for a cheap but effective option.

So, an RGB>Component type cable just won't cut it?

I will check out the transcoders you are talking about. I didn't realize there were less expensive options.

And yes, I was referring to Arcade monitors switching between different ranges of signals. Another thing that confuses me, is what if an old low res monitor is being fed a newer, higher resolution game? Will it be able to display it?

[rCadeGaming]

RGB and YPbPr component communicate colorspace differently.  Some electronics are needed to translate between the two, so no a straight cable will not work. 

RGB and component are not just types of cables.  The actual video signals use different formats.

If it's a 15kHz arcade monitor, it can only display a 15kHz signal, around 240 lines progressive or 480 interlaced.  If you feed it something too far outside it's range, the best case scenario is garbage on the screen.  Worst case is damage to the monitor.  I think all of this has been covered here.  Please read the whole thread, and research wherever else you can.

[polyrhythmic81]

After reading through this thread, I picked up an ArcadeVGA (was quickly frustrated by trying to get CRT_Emudriver to work on Windows 7) and a CVS287 transcoder.  I made a cable, connected both syncs from the VGA end to the composite pin on the SCART end, and am having some problems.  The TV is a Panasonic CT-27D10B.

As I click through the different resolutions in windows, the first inch or two at the top of the screen is warped/wavy looking.  The other major issue is that for resolutions with more vertical lines (~288), the images loses stability and rolls vertically.  I'm wondering if there are settings I can make in the TV or if it simply won't cooperate with the signal being sent to it...

[rCadeGaming]

Do you mean 288 active lines?  If you're trying run vertical games on a horizontal monitor, it's probably not going to happen in native res on a 15kHz display.  On the other hand, if you mean total lines, it's still not surprising that a US can't handle it, what are your horizontal and vertical scan rates at that resolution?  You're going to have to make compromises for the few games designed to run at 50Hz.

As for the cable, there are instructions in this thread to on how to make a better adapter for the CVS287.  Doing that would rule that out as a problem.

The other thing is that I'm not interested in trying to provide support for an ArcadeVGA setup, I think it's a poor alternative to CRT_Emudriver.  There is plenty of support in the GroovyMAME section to help you get CRT_Emu working in 7.

I'm not trying to be discouraging, but it will take some work to get proper native-res MAME running.  I hope you stick with it.

[Yeltsew7]

I'm back again, and I don't want to make a new thread.  Do you think that an HD5450 would be able to run CRT_emudriver?  I picked one of those up FOR FREE!!!.  It seems to work, but I haven't tested it, because I plugged my KV-27FS120 in last week and it was REALLY messed up, and my remote is broken.  I guess that means that I need to pick up a 4TH TV for this project.  I saw a REALLY big Sony the other day.  I think it was a KV-32FS100.  CRTs seem to be getting rarer and rarer in my area at least.

[rCadeGaming]

IIRC, nothing newer than 4XXX will work with Windows, but it might in Linux.  Don't quote me on that though.

I wouldn't recommend a 32" for anything but a showcase cabinet, they're just too big.  27" is pushing it.  I'm going to space myself as far back from my 27" as I can by having a deep control panel and tilting the monitor back a lot.  I've mocked up test setups and these things hurt your eyes if you're too close.  That, and the weight of the tube.

[rCadeGaming]

The website for Crescendo Systems, maker of the TC1600 VGA to component transcoder, is currently down.  Looks like the domain is up for sale.  I was sorry to see this.  I'm not sure what happened, but I know that the "company" was actually a one-man operation run by an enthusiast named Kim Beumer.  His products and support were world class, but my guess is that it was not his day job.  He could have called it quits due lack of business (he served a tiny niche market), or he could have just had some more important life obligations.  If anyone has any idea what happened, please let me know.  I have spoken with Kim a few times via email, but the address I have is "@crescendo-systems.com" so I don't think that'll be of any use now.  Anyone who still wants a TC1600 could try contracting BYOAC member notbillcosby.  He wanted to sell his a while ago, and I don't think he did yet.  Aside from that, I guess my only recommendation for now is the CVS-287.  There are also some dedicated IC's available for building your own transcoder circuit, which I'll probably look into eventually.

[theillest]

...UPDATE 11/14/2014:  The Crescendo Systems website is currently down.  Looks like the domain is up for sale.  I was sorry to see this.  I'm not sure what happened, but I know that the "company" was actually a one-man operation run by an enthusiast named Kim Beumer.  His products and support were world class, but my guess is that it was not his day job.  He could have called it quits due lack of business (he served a tiny niche market), or he could have just had some more important life obligations.  If anyone has any idea what happened, please let me know.  I have spoken with Kim a few times via email, but the address I have is "@crescendo-systems.com" so I don't think that'll be of any use now.  Anyone who still wants a TC1600 could try contracting BYOAC member notbillcosby.  He wanted to sell his a while ago, and I don't think he did yet.  Aside from that, I guess my only recommendation for now is the CVS-287, below.  There are also some dedicated IC's available for building your own transcoder circuit, which I'll probably look into eventually.
*****

A cheaper option than either of those, but one that still works very well, is a CVS-287 RGB SCART to component transcoder:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YPbPr-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/370695549217?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item564f2d3121

These work well, I have tested one personally.  However, to use it you'll have to make a VGA to SCART adapter.  If you can solder, it's very easy.  Just get a female VGA connector (also called a female DB-15HD) and hood, and a male SCART connector and hood.  Look up the VGA and SCART pinouts, connect red to red, green to green, blue to blue, and ground to ground.  Horizontal and vertical sync from the VGA connector must be combined to make composite sync.  This is done by running each through a 1N4148 diode and connecting them together.  Then connect that to the composite sync connection in the SCART connector.

There are also transcoders available from RCA, Audio Authority, and JS technologies, but it hasn't been confirmed that these will work consistently with arcade resolutions, so they should be avoided.  Other users have actually had a lot of problems with the RCA unit; the other two are just unconfirmed.  I have personally tested the TC1500/1600 and the CVS-287 extensively and haven't found any problems.

If I get the CVS-287 and don't know how to solder, can I buy one of these guys?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2M-Scart-RGB-To-VGA-SVGA-15-PIN-Female-HD-Cable-Lead-For-TV-Plasma-LCD-Monitor-/360953093876

[rCadeGaming]

Sorry for the late reply.  Based on the information given, it's hard to tell.  It depends how the change from separate to composite sync is handled.  It's advertised as SCART to VGA (the opposite direction from what you need), so I'm guessing it could be a problem.  Best answer?  If you're into video games/arcade games, learn to solder.

[theillest]

Sorry for the late reply.  Based on the information given, it's hard to tell.  It depends how the change from separate to composite sync is handled.  It's advertised as SCART to VGA (the opposite direction from what you need), so I'm guessing it could be a problem.  Best answer?  If you're into video games/arcade games, learn to solder.

Fair enough, thanks for all your feedback man. 

[helyblackstorm]

Rcadegaming

Thanks for tip.

The image in native resolution using converter CVS287 + VGA to SCART was fantastic in my friend's TVs:

SAMSUNG DNIE 21"



SAMSUNG DNIE 29" Vertical for Shoot 'em ups



Been a long time I and my friend was looking for a way to put my NTSC TV in 15 Hz and thanks to your tip we finely got.

Once again thank you.

[Yeltsew7]

IIRC, nothing newer than 4XXX will work with Windows, but it might in Linux.  Don't quote me on that though.

I wouldn't recommend a 32" for anything but a showcase cabinet, they're just too big.  27" is pushing it.  I'm going to space myself as far back from my 27" as I can by having a deep control panel and tilting the monitor back a lot.  I've mocked up test setups and these things hurt your eyes if you're too close.  That, and the weight of the tube.

Thanks for your 2 cents, I might drop another $20 on a 24" Sony.  My KV-27FS120 is kill, don't know what is wrong with it.  It's probably bad caps, but I REALLY don't feel like taking them all off, buying equivalent ones, and re-soldering them. The ATI card is just completely broken. I also didn't plan on using Linux on my cab either, just for convenience. I'll look for the card you recommend on eBay or CL.
My project is pretty much just on hold right now, because of the TV, and because of lack of funds.