Main > Project Announcements
The Complete Noob's First Project Thread - (No Theme/Name yet...)
jammin0:
Sorry, I'm probably not explaining it very well. I did notice that took off the whole case, it must have misread that you were going to try and cutoff that extension that was there for the stand in order to keep the casing on it still. A pictures worth 1000 words so this is what I'm saying.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=118927.0
I did something similar with a 23" LCD and it came out super sturdy. Sometimes the control board and powersupply are kind of loose without the case, I JB Welded that part to the back of the panel and then secured. If you have a tight recess that it fits into you really just have to secure it from falling out of the bezel. Vertical weight is supported by the wood.
Ond:
10 coats of paint is probably overkill :) . I've copied over some notes from my project thread on my painting method which got me to here:
" Surface preparation – my goal is to prep any surface regardless of what the material is, MDF, plywood, aluminium, plastic etc to the same pre-prepared state. That means all pits, grain, bumps GONE. For this I use Bondo & automotive single pack putty & primer. Several coats with sanding in between are needed to achieve the prepared surface finish. There are various primers available, cheaper household primers will not get the same finish. I know, I’ve tried. Where a mirror finish is concerned, automotive products in general (which are more expensive) are what I recommend. Now I’m not saying you can’t get good results with cheaper household type products but the quality of products you use does make a difference including how hard it dries and how fine and evenly it sprays from the rattle can or spray gun.
Multiple coats – I’ve found you need at least 3 coats of primer and 3 of paint (preferably 4) to get the desired results including colour depth etc.
Eliminate orange peel - not just minimize it, eliminate it completely. With quality paint, each sanded coat becomes finer and finer as far as the peel effect goes, this is also helped by spray technique. When spraying, the rule is, spray several light coats as many folk advise (with a short break between each) – except your final pass, make that a little heavier, good paint will settle to a very smooth finish if a slightly heavier final pass is applied.
Allow plenty of drying time - why doesn’t Ond post an update?? – cos I’m sitting around waiting for paint to dry properly! OK lame excuse (there’s always something you can progress on your cab given you have the time). Give the paint at least 3 days preferably 5 to dry. It makes a difference in the next steps.
Sanding -whether you are working on either the primer refining stages or paint refining stages wet sanding is the way to go. The mechanical action of wet sanding with regular dips in the water with the paper and surface wipe with damp cloth give the best results. I spend about an hour on any single surface working through grades of paper but I never go beyond 600 grit between coats of paint. 600 grit produces the right surface for paint to adhere to.
Final Finish - this is where the magic happens assuming the proper preparation has gone before it. So you’ve got your final paint coat to a fine finish using 600 grit wet sanding. The surface now has a dull kind of plastic look but is entirely peel free. I work through the next grades perhaps 30 mins on each of 800 then 1200 (you can skip straight to 1200 if you want) and then 2000 grit wet sand. Now the surface is shiny, it’s nice but under good light swirl scratches are evident. Medium grade cut and polish compound applied with a soft rag ( I like to use old towels )is next. Spend about 20 mins doing that and wipe it all away with another clean rag. Now you have an impressive shiny surface with only the finest swirl marks visible under good light. If there’s any peel visible YOURE OUTTA THERE, go back to sanding with 600 until it’s gone.
Now it’s time for auto finish swirl remover, apply the liquid with a soft cloth – spend about 30 mins on this at least. Buff clean. The Grail is in sight, are we there yet? No. Finally take a lamb’s wool buffer on a mechanical buffer and buff lightly all over. Lightly because too much pressure and you can cut through the paint and cause a burn mark which in my case ends up in a screaming fit which sets the neighbourhood dogs barking and startles the neighbours. Did you buff lightly? Then you are there, you’ve reached paint gloss finish nirvana, congratulations! "
There are also some discussion between javeryh (the guy that did Bella's Arcade) and myself about my surface prep and painting here.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88912.msg1252162#msg1252162
:cheers:
Ond
walterg74:
--- Quote from: jammin0 on June 09, 2012, 05:31:01 pm ---Sorry, I'm probably not explaining it very well. I did notice that took off the whole case, it must have misread that you were going to try and cutoff that extension that was there for the stand in order to keep the casing on it still. A pictures worth 1000 words so this is what I'm saying.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=118927.0
I did something similar with a 23" LCD and it came out super sturdy. Sometimes the control board and powersupply are kind of loose without the case, I JB Welded that part to the back of the panel and then secured. If you have a tight recess that it fits into you really just have to secure it from falling out of the bezel. Vertical weight is supported by the wood.
--- End quote ---
Ahh gotcha... This actually was what I was thinking from your previous post, with the exception of how you prevent it from falling back. So the wood bezel itself keeps it from going forward, and those strips you screw on from going back.... Yes, this would be an alternative, and I guess if I do this, I can also make it the right size to get a nice dark surrounding...
You did not get it wrong though, my intentio WAS to cut off that extra piece that is for the stand and keep the casing. That way, I could just follow the original design and secure the monitor to the mdf board with the 4 screws for the VESA mount...
Le Chuck:
I see what you're saying about the back panel. Now that you can move the control board out of the way I'd just chop off the stand that hangs off the bottom then reassemble since you were doing a vesa mount. You won't see the cut piece and it won't do any damage to the fuction and installation of the monitor.
If you're feeling froggy make an MDF bezel but it isn't necessary, I say chop it.
CP layout looks good, I recommend playing with it on a variety of games and I also recommend having more space round the joystick than around the last buttons so if you have the room shift right some. Also putting P1 and P2 side by side along the top will allow you to center a bit better. You have plenty of room tho so find something comfortable.
I would bottom mount those joys. You can drill your center hole then take the mounting plate off and use that to template the area to round in a bit, tho with only 15mm MDF you probably wouldn't need to route in much to get good standoff for your bat height.
Most I've ever done is 5 coats with primer (I can't bring my self to triple coat primer) and I've had some pretty good success with my paint finishes but too each their own. Follow OND's advice is the best advice I can give.
AlienInferno:
Just found this thread. Good build so far. It makes me want to start building a cab all over again, and I'm not even finished with my first. I found the most enjoyment from building the major components of the cab. It's just cool seeing it take shape and know that you are the one that built it.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version