Anyone ever mount a joystick like this before?

[jammin0]

I'm thinking about mounting some u360s like this sketch.  (I'm on my work mac and can only draw with a freeware program called graphic converter )

The step shaped blocks would just screw into the 3/4" MDF with a couple of screws.

Crazytown?  A better way to do this?  I want a flat top without any bolts.  I notice most people countersink from the top and drop them in.

[Le Chuck]

You can purchase undermounting hardware and order longer sticks to compensate for the CP thickness. 

[jammin0]

You can purchase undermounting hardware and order longer sticks to compensate for the CP thickness. 

I used the undermounting hardware on my last build but it seems like I still needed about a half inch to be safe and make sure I didn't run the hardware out the other side.  I wanted to push them up to about 1/4".

I've seen the longer shafts but I'm already in about $150 after shipping for the 2 u360s.  I couldn't stomach spending the extra $20-30 for extra long handles.

[GregD]

How about top mounting and then using a 1/8" board to cover everything

[crashwg]

I think your idea would work fine as long as the countersink in the bottom of the panel is a tight fit for the joystick mounting plate otherwise it might slide under the pressure of moving the joy.

[Blanka]

Problem with this is that all the forces from the player have to be handled by the screws. When they are in plywood, you might be OK, but with MDF or chipboard, they will wear out pretty fast.
Nicest is countersink from above, enough for plate and screw heads, and that gives room for hiding the dust washers underneath the cpo too.

[jammin0]

I think your idea would work fine as long as the countersink in the bottom of the panel is a tight fit for the joystick mounting plate otherwise it might slide under the pressure of moving the joy.

That's kind of what I was thinking.  Seems like the majority of the force on a joystick is side to side.  As long as it is locked in there really tit then it just needs some help forte small downward forces placed on it.  I think I will make a jig and then do a test one first and see if it is secure enough.

[kahlid74]

Problem with this is that all the forces from the player have to be handled by the screws. When they are in plywood, you might be OK, but with MDF or chipboard, they will wear out pretty fast.
Nicest is countersink from above, enough for plate and screw heads, and that gives room for hiding the dust washers underneath the cpo too.

Blanka hit the nail square on the head.  Screw's in MDF don't do well against load over periods of time.  They'll hold at the start but once load goes on them they buckle like Nancy Grace doing the ChaCha.  You really need to use a bolt system, where you're not screwed into the MDF but go through the MDF.

The other possibility you have are thread inserts, which go right into the MDF and since they are so big, they hold for a long time.

http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-LOK-Threaded-Insert-Thread/dp/B002WC8TSO/ref=pd_sbs_indust_6

[jammin0]

Ok, well I got 2-3 nays and only one yay so I think I will toss that idea out.  I haven't seen this part documented too much on the forums but if I have it countersunk from the top with countersunk bolts going through to the underside, will my artwork cover all that up sufficiently so that you can't see it?  I've read about putting another 1/8" piece of wood on top or even people sandwiching their artwork between 2 pieces of plexiglass like on the marquee but it seems like I haven't read about too many people going to those great of lengths.

[Louis Tully]

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[drventure]

Insert nuts and the longer shafts/hard springs are your best option. I know what you're gunning for. I didn't like the idea of putting the bolts in from the top either, once they're covered over with your CP laminate/artwork, you can remove the sticks.

You might try out your stepped block approach, but use machine screws and insert nuts instead of wood screws directly into the MDF.

Things will just have to be +tight+ cause you definitely don't want the sticks slopping around as you play!

[ron310]

I've used the "screws from underneath" technique on 2 bartops that I've built so far with no issues.
My first bartop was done this way and has been holding up to some serious abuse. (drunken game tournaments, kids hanging on them, etc). Like someone said...if they ever do come loose, I'll run some bolts through, but I don't see that happening. They are half inch screws going into mdf.

[P-chan]

I also recently mounted 2 U360s and wanted them to be flush with the top.  The artwork went directly on top of the joystick plate, and plexi over top of that.  Here are some pictures:







I also used my countersink bit a little on the U360 mounting plates so that the screws wouldn't stick up.  Protip: if you're going to do this, remove the mounting plate from the joystick - all the little metal filings from using the countersink bit on the metal will immediately attach to the magnet on the bottom of the joystick and screw up your calibration.

[Dawgz Rule]

How about top mounting and then using a 1/8" board to cover everything

Exactly what I did.   Has worked great thus far.

[jammin0]

I also recently mounted 2 U360s and wanted them to be flush with the top.  The artwork went directly on top of the joystick plate, and plexi over top of that.  Here are some pictures:
I also used my countersink bit a little on the U360 mounting plates so that the screws wouldn't stick up.  Protip: if you're going to do this, remove the mounting plate from the joystick - all the little metal filings from using the countersink bit on the metal will immediately attach to the magnet on the bottom of the joystick and screw up your calibration.

I'm assuming that you're using adhesive backed vinyl on your artwork?  I did decide to top mount.  Everything everyone was saying about stability made me nervous.  I seriously cut 4 jigs to use with my router before I got it right.  I have had to learn to not work too much on my build after about 6:00 at night and then to go really slowly when I do or else I always mess up.  Much better to do it on a Saturday morning.  If I could only get someone to watch my kids now while I work.   Getting closer anyway.

[jammin0]

How about top mounting and then using a 1/8" board to cover everything

Exactly what I did.   Has worked great thus far.

I would think about this but I used 3/4" MDF.  I don't think I could get the 3/4" Tmolding to fit with an inch of CP.  would look funny with my sides too.  I'm guessing that most people who do that use 5/8" plus 1/8 wood plus 1/8" plexi.  which leaves just 1/8" chamfer on the bottom and 3/4" t-molding?

[kahlid74]

I also recently mounted 2 U360s and wanted them to be flush with the top.  The artwork went directly on top of the joystick plate, and plexi over top of that.  Here are some pictures:
I also used my countersink bit a little on the U360 mounting plates so that the screws wouldn't stick up.  Protip: if you're going to do this, remove the mounting plate from the joystick - all the little metal filings from using the countersink bit on the metal will immediately attach to the magnet on the bottom of the joystick and screw up your calibration.

I'm assuming that you're using adhesive backed vinyl on your artwork?  I did decide to top mount.  Everything everyone was saying about stability made me nervous.  I seriously cut 4 jigs to use with my router before I got it right.  I have had to learn to not work too much on my build after about 6:00 at night and then to go really slowly when I do or else I always mess up.  Much better to do it on a Saturday morning.  If I could only get someone to watch my kids now while I work.   Getting closer anyway.

There's a want/need in this hobby to finish as fast as possible because of all the other cool stuff people display on a daily basis.  Try to get this out of your head.  Slow and steady builds the machine of your dreams.  Fast and foolish causes accidents both to you and the machine.  Take your time.  You'll be so much happier when it's exactly as you want it.

[jammin0]

There's a want/need in this hobby to finish as fast as possible because of all the other cool stuff people display on a daily basis.  Try to get this out of your head.  Slow and steady builds the machine of your dreams.  Fast and foolish causes accidents both to you and the machine.  Take your time.  You'll be so much happier when it's exactly as you want it.

Yeah, I think I'm a little bit ADD.  I always get to the point where I just want to be done because I want to work on something else.  Don't get me wrong, I'm excited about being done with my cab build and playing but I the weather is nice and all I can think about is the motorcycle that I want to get running that is sitting in the garage.

I know what you mean about the urge to go faster, sometimes I wonder if some of the people on this forum have day jobs or maybe they live in some magical place where they can go to their huge workshop without any responsibills and work on their project all day.  My wife did make a comment to me the other day that she thought that this build was going way faster than my last build.  I think there is a learning curve.  I mean, before my pedestal build I hadn't ever picked up a router or used a table saw. 

[P-chan]

I'm assuming that you're using adhesive backed vinyl on your artwork?  I did decide to top mount.  Everything everyone was saying about stability made me nervous.  I seriously cut 4 jigs to use with my router before I got it right.  I have had to learn to not work too much on my build after about 6:00 at night and then to go really slowly when I do or else I always mess up.  Much better to do it on a Saturday morning.  If I could only get someone to watch my kids now while I work.   Getting closer anyway.

Nope, my artwork is just a poster.  I made it myself in photoshop and sent it to an online poster printing place.  No adhesive at all, the buttons and plexi hold it down just great

[ceburto2]

Does anyone worry about a top mounted joystick crapping out and having to rip up the plexi and artwork to replace it. I haven't starting my build yet but I was leaning toward bottom mounting joystick, trackball, and spinner for looks and ease of replacement.

-ceburto2

[tony.silveira]

Does anyone worry about a top mounted joystick crapping out and having to rip up the plexi and artwork to replace it. I haven't starting my build yet but I was leaning toward bottom mounting joystick, trackball, and spinner for looks and ease of replacement.

-ceburto2

i'm using 5/8 mdf board with a 1/8 board over the top.  that way if something ever does go wrong, i can just pull the 1/8 board off with the art.

[Unstupid]

Under!  But I used a CNC router to carve out the hole for the joystick so that it stayed a tight fit.  This way it would not move horizontally, but I still had to secure it from falling through if someone pushed down on it.  I did not use the original holes on the joystick because the 1/4" thickness of the joystick only left 1/2" of plywood to screw into.  Instead I cut a couple of 4" steel strips and screwed them to the underside of the plywood and secured them with 3/4" screws making it difficult to pull out.