Author Topic: Ninja Monkeys (Completed with Video) (Read 30513 times)

PL1 · « **Reply #80 on:** May 29, 2012, 04:10:00 am »

Meant to post this earlier.

My inspiration for suggesting the yellow joystick comes from the 2000 Sega game "Monkey Ball"

The control panel has a unique joystick handle.

Closeup.

Scott

P.S. Looking at the CPO again, I got the absurd image in my mind of bananas growing on a glacier.

Any chance of adding a faded tone/gradient of one of the marquee colors to break up the "glacier"? The marquee looks like it's late fall. Maybe some brown dry grass in the "field" (rice paddy?) leading to the bridge and pagoda.

jammin0 · « **Reply #81 on:** May 29, 2012, 10:24:15 am »

Oh man, I'm getting all of these suggestions now but I just put in my order already with souldraw.com yesterday morning. I feel what everyone is saying about the blank spot in the CP. basically that is because Mark's original Terminus cab had a spinner. I've decided that I will add a spinner but it will just be at a later date since it would add too much cost to my build right now and I'm going on 6 months with this build and am anxious to get it done. Luckily I am doing the CP last so that it won't be playable until it is completed. I love the banana joystick! GizmoGames also PMd me a yesterday with some mockups. I thought I would post them here since they look pretty cool even though I'm not going to be able to use them, maybe somewhere down the line.

I ordered up 2 sets of CP graphics and marquees from souldraw.com. That still came in under the 10 sqft minimum order and cost me $35 shipped. Just as a side note, they send their graphics to the printer in either JPG or Tiff format. I had originally uploaded my graphics in .ai format and when the digital proof came back whatever they had used to convert my graphics to .jpg looked horrible. I had lost transparency and color information, also the dimensions were right but I lost some detail so it must have been in 72 dpi at the highest. Anyway, I exported them myself from Illustrator and then their digital proof came back a lot closer to what I had sent them. Just a heads up for anyone else trying to use them. At $35 for 2 different sets I don't think I have a lot to lose. It would cost me at least that to have them printed on just plain paper and laminated at my local FedEx/Kinkos place.

Thanks again Gizmo for the extra mockups.

jammin0 · « **Reply #82 on:** May 29, 2012, 10:54:09 am »

I just had this idea that you could take GIZMOs rendition with the masked ninja. I think JayB showed us that one and you could pretty easily crop the human face and add this one.

GIZMOGAMES · « **Reply #83 on:** May 29, 2012, 01:36:50 pm »

ok i think at a guess you mean like these

and oooh wide love to get a couple of those monkeyball joysticks just for fun factor lol

im away quitte a bit now but ill try to log in when i can fiancee is in hospital for op tommorow

and i got djgigs at weekend/bh monday as they say life goes on

it was quite fun getting the ape face to match the original

and i aways have fun messing about artwise

ciao for now
GIZMO

PL1 · « **Reply #84 on:** May 29, 2012, 03:53:01 pm »

Good luck with finding the joysticks.

Only 526 games/kits were made IIRC.

Seeing the render with the yellow and black buttons made me think about swapping the plungers in 6 yellow buttons for the plungers in 6 black buttons.

I like the masked monkey face idea. Do you have any concerns about the more realistic monkey face on the CPO conflicting with the cartoon style of the rest?

Scott.

jammin0 · « **Reply #85 on:** May 30, 2012, 12:19:35 pm »

artwork shipped from Shanghai

Kind of bummed that I didn't get the leopard print drop cloth like GregD on his Arcade Nebula build.

Did I mention that this was only $35 shipped.

JayB · « **Reply #86 on:** May 31, 2012, 05:45:26 am »

Think the artwork looks great jammin0

Definitely better without the last ninja face, changed the mood of the overall look of the artwork. I do like the other monkey used with the banana sword. I was going to suggest a large shuriken if you were using a trackball on the control panel.

Chappie · « **Reply #87 on:** May 31, 2012, 06:50:22 am »

I also used Souldraw and i think they shipped my items the same day as your Jammin0. I ordered a complete 6 set order (2 full sides at 3'x6', a front at 30"x36", a marquee, a CP and artwork that covers the sides of my CP) $109/shipped. Can't wait to see it and apply it. Worst case I am out $100, best case I saved about $500 by bypassing an artist and using a US vinyl sticker maker.

AGarv · « **Reply #88 on:** May 31, 2012, 10:27:09 am »

The artwork turned out great! Did you do all that yourself? Looks very sharp... almost like a game that could have been but never was!

PL1 · « **Reply #89 on:** May 31, 2012, 11:24:51 am »

Quote from: JayB on May 31, 2012, 05:45:26 am

Think the artwork looks great jammin0

Definitely better without the last ninja face, changed the mood of the overall look of the artwork. I do like the other monkey used with the banana sword. I was going to suggest a large shuriken if you were using a trackball on the control panel.

+1 to what JayB sez.

I look forward to seeing how well your souldraw art works out. If you don't mind, once you get it installed maybe include a mention of which material and finish options you chose as well as any observations on working with it.

Scott

jammin0 · « **Reply #90 on:** May 31, 2012, 01:35:45 pm »

Quote from: AGarv on May 31, 2012, 10:27:09 am

The artwork turned out great! Did you do all that yourself? Looks very sharp... almost like a game that could have been but never was!

I guess I kind of did it by myself if you factor in the fact that JayB gave me all the creative direction even posting most of the graphics. Oh yeah and killsurfcity basically gave me a graphic design 101 lesson that I tried to draw from.

Anyway, thanks for all the help everyone. I'm excited to get it in and stick it all down. I realize that the CP ended up a little bit plain but the entire sides are going to be plain white and at least simple won't clash horribly. I plan to add some text below the buttons but I will do that with vinyl decals later so that I can get the placement right on with the buttons. I was also thinking of that since this is my first cab build that if my buttons were overlayed over white then I wouldn't have any chance of getting the placement wrong.

Chappie · « **Reply #91 on:** June 01, 2012, 06:38:23 am »

I installed a full vinyl decal set on a pinball before and I primed the sides, sanded to a smooth touch (but still painted, to prevent liquid from quickly absorbing) and then applied a soaking coverage of Windex to the area for the decal. The windex allows for shifting of the decal for a minute or two. Once the decal was where I wanted it, I placed a clear piece of painters tarp down (to protect the decal) and I roller squigeed it down. This squeezed out a lot of the excess Windex and ultimately made for a firm seal. Once one side was on, I walked away for a day to let it dry good. The next day you trim excess off with a brand new razor blade and move to the next decal.

What are you using on top of your CP to protect the decal? I use an epoxy resin. You have seen it before, the heavy clear plastic looking wood bar tops. Spreads evenly to a glossy glass finish, super strong, non-yellowing, wipes down easily. That I let sit for a week once applied.

jammin0 · « **Reply #92 on:** June 01, 2012, 10:48:14 am »

I'm just going to cover mine with plexiglass. I've never heard of using windex but I used to run a side business doing vinyl decals for cars, mostly advertising stuff. Anyway, with a huge decal you can do a wet apply just by mixing some water with a few drops of dawn dish soap. Takes a lot longer and sometimes you can get really small bubbles trapped in there but it has saved me a couple of times.

Smaller decals seem to be easier to just do it dry. I hinge the decal, remove the backing from one part and then stick it down. After that it's just a matter of peeling off the other side of the backing since your decal isn't going anywhere. I'm yet to see what quality vinyl decal comes from souldraw.com. Not sure how sticky it will be and how thick the material is. generally in my experience, thicker, less sticky decals are going to be way easier to install.

GIZMOGAMES · « **Reply #93 on:** June 02, 2012, 01:21:06 pm »

Quote from: jammin0 on May 30, 2012, 12:19:35 pm

artwork shipped from Shanghai Kind of bummed that I didn't get the leopard print drop cloth like GregD on his Arcade Nebula build. Did I mention that this was only $35 shipped.

ok shoot me a pm with details of who you went with

im having problems locating someone in uk who can do my side art

not thought about marquee till i know exact dimensions but the side art is my main concern

Chappie · « **Reply #94 on:** June 03, 2012, 07:37:39 pm »

I see the tracking info has my artwork in the state but the sad part is I am going on a 4 day business trip. Bummer, next weekend I hopefully will have an update. Jammin0 you show yours being delivered in the next day or so?

jammin0 · « **Reply #95 on:** June 03, 2012, 10:33:56 pm »

Yeah, as soon as I get it. I feel your pain.

jammin0 · « **Reply #96 on:** June 06, 2012, 01:48:53 am »

Got my artwork in today. I'll post some impressions and picks tomorrow aft I get off work. Been a little bit swamped lately.

jammin0 · « **Reply #97 on:** June 06, 2012, 04:56:54 pm »

Ok here's the skinny.

I bought the backlit PVC with matte lamination material for the marquee.
I have not a whole lot bad to say about this, it is pretty thick plasticky and lights up really well with any kind of light behind it. I was worried about hotspots with my flourescent light behind but it was a non issue. I'll get pictures of that soon.

For the CP I bought the black adhesive vinyl with matte lamination.
The material seems great, it is really thick, the adhesive isn't anything crazy sticky which I was worried about for application. The colors look a little bit oversaturated on this material. It isn't too bad and I'm really just trying to nitpick and have no comparison.

Shipping was really fast and there was only one issue that kind of made me realize that some people might want to pay more for a local company. The entire shipment came in a roll about 2" x 20". The vinyl was rolled extremely tight. Because everything was rolled so tight I could tell right away that there would be no damage in shipping, it was pretty solid. However, as I tried to unroll the adhesive vinyl it became apparent that it had stretched some in shipping and straightening it out created some bubbles and folds in the vinyl. To lay it back down on the substrate I peeled it up, applied a little bit of heat from a blow dryer. Then I used a vinyl squeegee to straighten it out as I put it back down. Here are the low quality before and after pictures. I'll keep updating this post as I get the artwork installed.

AGarv · « **Reply #98 on:** June 10, 2012, 11:41:46 am »

When do we get to see the final glamour shots of Ninja Monkeys?

jammin0 · « **Reply #99 on:** June 10, 2012, 02:04:04 pm »

Buttons and tmolding are coming from groovygamegear and should be here mid to late next week.

I've waited so long I didn't feel like spending the extra $5 for priority shipping. I'm trying to make a custom hyper spin intro in flash. It just dawned on me that everyone is going to ask to play ninja monkeys and the game doesn't even exist.

GregD · « **Reply #100 on:** June 10, 2012, 08:28:07 pm »

Looks great. Sad to say my side art from Souldraw ended up being a casualty. The edges kept peeling up probably because i didn't clean the cabinet well enough before applying. I tried to use 3m spray adhesive to keep it down but it ended up bubbling through the decal. I actually didn't like the look of it on the side anyways. Inam going to order a big decal of thevsame design and put it on the front door. Just a warning, prepare the surface well with alcohol before applying.

jammin0 · « **Reply #101 on:** June 10, 2012, 10:14:18 pm »

Quote from: GregD on June 10, 2012, 08:28:07 pm

Looks great. Sad to say my side art from Souldraw ended up being a casualty. The edges kept peeling up probably because i didn't clean the cabinet well enough before applying. I tried to use 3m spray adhesive to keep it down but it ended up bubbling through the decal. I actually didn't like the look of it on the side anyways. Inam going to order a big decal of thevsame design and put it on the front door. Just a warning, prepare the surface well with alcohol before applying.

That's too bad, I did notice that the adhesive wasn't super duper sticky. That made it easier to install but I guess that's the drawback. The only place I have it is underneath plexiglass on the CP so it shouldn't be a problem.. Backlit PVC film is holding up isn't it. That stuff really impressed me for the price, I was really worried about shadows or hotspots on the Marquee but there isn't any of that.

JayB · « **Reply #102 on:** June 11, 2012, 09:09:55 am »

That's come out really good

I'd be tempted to paint the sides of the cab banana yellow

PL1 · « **Reply #103 on:** June 11, 2012, 03:34:47 pm »

Quote from: JayB on June 11, 2012, 09:09:55 am

I'd be tempted to paint the sides of the cab banana yellow

The only problem with that is that you'll get black spots as it gets older.

Scott

jammin0 · « **Reply #104 on:** June 11, 2012, 05:23:54 pm »

T-molding will be yellow. Sides are just going to be white for now unless I think of something better. I'm not super sold on the colors/theme but it is a million times better than what I had planned and it is fun and sharp looking. My son helped with some of the ideas and he loves it.

zato1ch1 · « **Reply #105 on:** June 13, 2012, 11:15:19 am »

Quote from: GregD on June 10, 2012, 08:28:07 pm

Looks great. Sad to say my side art from Souldraw ended up being a casualty. The edges kept peeling up probably because i didn't clean the cabinet well enough before applying. I tried to use 3m spray adhesive to keep it down but it ended up bubbling through the decal. I actually didn't like the look of it on the side anyways. Inam going to order a big decal of thevsame design and put it on the front door. Just a warning, prepare the surface well with alcohol before applying.

Yikes. Just wondering if you did a wet application of this peeling side art?

jammin0 · « **Reply #106 on:** June 13, 2012, 12:40:15 pm »

Quote from: zato1ch1 on June 13, 2012, 11:15:19 am

Quote from: GregD on June 10, 2012, 08:28:07 pm
Looks great. Sad to say my side art from Souldraw ended up being a casualty. The edges kept peeling up probably because i didn't clean the cabinet well enough before applying. I tried to use 3m spray adhesive to keep it down but it ended up bubbling through the decal. I actually didn't like the look of it on the side anyways. Inam going to order a big decal of thevsame design and put it on the front door. Just a warning, prepare the surface well with alcohol before applying.

Yikes. Just wondering if you did a wet application of this peeling side art?

Wondering the same thing myself. So far I would highly recommend them for marquee backlit PVC. I have some doubts about the stickiness of the vinyl black adhesive, that is what I got. Doesn't seem to effect mine but I could see it being a problem uncovered or mounted vertically.

Chappie · « **Reply #107 on:** June 13, 2012, 08:45:23 pm »

So far I have to recommend them. I got the Vinyl Sticker with Gloss finish and I am happy. Hope to post installed pictures this weekend. About half way through right now on FULL cabinet art install. Samples above a few messages in purple. The colors are brilliant but slightly saturated as stated. So the lighter the artwork the better looking. Dark colors will come out a little darker. Would and will use again.

Steve

jammin0 · « **Reply #108 on:** June 13, 2012, 09:12:02 pm »

Quote from: Chappie on June 13, 2012, 08:45:23 pm

So far I have to recommend them. I got the Vinyl Sticker with Gloss finish and I am happy. Hope to post installed pictures this weekend. About half way through right now on FULL cabinet art install. Samples above a few messages in purple. The colors are brilliant but slightly saturated as stated. So the lighter the artwork the better looking. Dark colors will come out a little darker. Would and will use again.

Steve

Excited to see yours Chappie, I take it you got back into town and had a nice package waiting for you. My mailman delivers all the package first and then comes back around with the mail. I was so mad because I missed him and had to wait a full extra day to get mine. Oh well, over and done with now.

jammin0 · « **Reply #109 on:** June 16, 2012, 04:06:30 pm »

EightBySix · « **Reply #110 on:** June 17, 2012, 09:50:15 am »

Quote from: PL1 on June 11, 2012, 03:34:47 pm

Quote from: JayB on June 11, 2012, 09:09:55 am
I'd be tempted to paint the sides of the cab banana yellow

The only problem with that is that you'll get black spots as it gets older.

Scott

Ive only just seen this thread. Dont know how i missed it. your thread makes for a good read.
Wish I had seen it earlier... A friend of mine who restores cabs had one of those monkey joysticks! Noticed your avatar. My daughter has red hair and does ju-jitsu. Calls herself "ginger ninja". Would have suggested it, but you seem sorted theme wise now.

Did you manage to get the toner off the pcb? I'm looking into it myself and saw that acetone was recommended. Do you have any tips to pass on? Any pics of it all soldered up?

Great work. Always Nice to see the father & son angle too.

mgb · « **Reply #111 on:** June 17, 2012, 10:45:21 pm »

awesome job

the cabinet looks great.

zato1ch1 · « **Reply #112 on:** June 18, 2012, 01:36:16 pm »

Came out great, man. Love that Terminus profile. Looks impossibly-thin at the curve.

AGarv · « **Reply #113 on:** June 19, 2012, 09:15:52 pm »

This turned out to be an awesome cab, congratulations!

Chappie · « **Reply #114 on:** June 19, 2012, 09:44:44 pm »

Promised to post...here are the 90% complete shots. Got 2 DOA LED buttons that I need to replace and waiting for the test trim to arrive to make the final trim determination but leaning toward orange on the cabinet and black around the CP. Still have software to work out...namely the two monitor marquee attempt.

Steve

zato1ch1 · « **Reply #115 on:** June 19, 2012, 10:13:36 pm »

Quote from: Chappie on June 19, 2012, 09:44:44 pm

Promised to post...here are the 90% complete shots. Got 2 DOA LED buttons that I need to replace and waiting for the test trim to arrive to make the final trim determination but leaning toward orange on the cabinet and black around the CP. Still have software to work out...namely the two monitor marquee attempt.

Steve

So you're happy with the souldraw vinyl, Chappie? Looks good in the pics. Did you install dry or use the spray bottle method? Windex or water?

Chappie · « **Reply #116 on:** June 19, 2012, 10:35:26 pm »

Installed dry and the smoother and more finished you can get the cabinet the better. make sure to prime and sand. Probably would be even better if you put poly down and then sand. But bottomline, sand to smooth. I would and will use again as I progress to my driving machine. Next up the XBOX 360 sitdown from a driving arcade cabinet and seat...complete with force feedback arcade wheel. I have all required items gathered and just need to finish up the trim and software on this one and out she goes to the gameroom to make room in the workroom for the driving arcade ,

jammin0 · « **Reply #117 on:** June 23, 2012, 01:52:34 pm »

Quote from: EightBySix on June 17, 2012, 09:50:15 am

Quote from: PL1 on June 11, 2012, 03:34:47 pm
Quote from: JayB on June 11, 2012, 09:09:55 am
I'd be tempted to paint the sides of the cab banana yellow

The only problem with that is that you'll get black spots as it gets older.

Scott

Ive only just seen this thread. Dont know how i missed it. your thread makes for a good read.
Wish I had seen it earlier... A friend of mine who restores cabs had one of those monkey joysticks! Noticed your avatar. My daughter has red hair and does ju-jitsu. Calls herself "ginger ninja". Would have suggested it, but you seem sorted theme wise now.

Did you manage to get the toner off the pcb? I'm looking into it myself and saw that acetone was recommended. Do you have any tips to pass on? Any pics of it all soldered up?

Great work. Always Nice to see the father & son angle too.

Never got the toner off. I was using acetone and then water as I scrubbed. I think the water was a no-no. I think the water was what helped the toner seep into the cleaned board. Here's the finished board all soldered up. It looks horrible but is functional. I decided to forego the lighting on the cab and will probably use the backlighting for a different project.

I wasn't super excited about the finished product but I've always wanted to try my hand at board etching so I can say that I have now.

sharpfork · « **Reply #118 on:** July 26, 2012, 11:33:15 am »

Sweet cab!

This project has many of the elements I've been looking for aside from an xBox brain like your last project.

I do have a few questions when you have a spare minute:
using the cheepo Chinese printing service

how would you do it differently next time?
What material would you get for side art next time?

using latex paint and not hating the results

what did you use for application?
Specifics on the paint brand/sheen?
How is it holding up after some time playing?

Anything you would refine about the Terminus slim design after having it for a while?

It is also super cool that you printed your own PCB. I'm thinking of doing the same to make a ScanLine Generator for my first LCD project.

jammin0 · « **Reply #119 on:** July 26, 2012, 10:41:45 pm »

I do have a few questions when you have a spare minute:
using the cheepo Chinese printing service

how would you do it differently next time?

It's actually holding up really well, I don't think I would change anything. I got the matte finish because another user (I think GregD) mentioned that the glossy finish scratched easily. I don't think it matters under plexi though. I can't say enough good things about the marquee. Someone could probably make decent money printing up a whole bunch of custom Multicade marquees and having them printed in bulk and then selling on ebay. I could have gotten about 7 or 8 of them done for $35 shipped.

What material would you get for side art next time?

I would stick with black adhesive vinyl and matte finish
[/list]
using latex paint and not hating the results

what did you use for application?

small foam roller from homedepot. I started with latex primer and then put on the latex satin topcoat. 2 coats of primer and then 3 or 4 of the satin colors. I have heard some people say that they got lines when using the foam rollers. I noticed that too until I built up the coats a little bit more. I sanded after the primer but didn't sand too much on the topcoats. I haven't had too much luck before sanding latex paint. It has a little bit of texture to it but the color is very uniform and without blemishes. I used high gloss spraypaint on my xbox build and it looked way worse then the latex satin. I think the trick was in the satin colors. I wouldn't try even a semigloss again because it shows variations too much.

Specifics on the paint brand/sheen?

Gliden Latex grey primer, black and white satin Gliden paints. I found that I needed more primer then paint as the MDF really soaks up until it is sealed.

How is it holding up after some time playing?

perfectly, the top is covered in plexi and it hasn't scratched or anything yet. I'm pretty anal with my kids about not putting the stools too close, etc.
[/list]
Anything you would refine about the Terminus slim design after having it for a while? I made mine taller but probably too tall for some people. Works great for me. I was really concerned after it started taking shape that the angle was too extreme on the CP. After using it for 1 or 2 hours at a time (it takes a couple of hours to beat bubble bobble) I haven't noticed any pain or fatigue. I think it has to do with the having some real estate in front of your controls. I wouldn't have that steep of an angle with the controls right on the edge or it might get tiredsome. I also play almost always sitting down.

It is also super cool that you printed your own PCB. I'm thinking of doing the same to make a ScanLine Generator for my first LCD project. You should do it. It's not too hard and if you mess up with the toner transfer method you can clean off your copper and try it again. You don't have to etch it until you are sure of your mask and it looks like it is going to turn out good. Let me know if you find a good way of getting the toner off


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