Tron Legacy - Update 05/03/2016 - Mala Woes

[Le Chuck]

Make the curve integral to the top and hinge from the bottom so the front panel and top fold out as a unit from the sides. Just run your break straight across the bottom at the side panel edges. Keep the curve, it's cool.

I like that idea.  I wish I would have thought of it when I built it originally.  I was so focused on getting the curves right I didn't stop to think how I would hinge the top.

You don't have to break the sides off or anything, just run a jigsaw right along the bottom line and you should be alright.  Then you can go with something as simple as a piano hinge cut to fit and some bolted on wires to limit the open.  Just be sure and put a few relief pieces in against the curve to help keep it all together.  Whatever you come up with will be cool tho. 

[MaxVolume]

I put my arcade shots on FB, too!  I'm ultra-nerd!!

AJ

+1 

[MaxVolume]

I couldn't find any carriage bolts locally that would fit so I used some of these.  Originally they were just going to be temporary until I could find some black carriage bolts but I like the look.  They are a little more industrial and I'm going to keep them.

Whoa... used pretty much the same bolts to mount my metal control panel to the wood base... uncanny. 

[MaxVolume]

Just read the whole thread... very interesting project you've got going there.

Does this mean I win? --->  http://www.flickr.com/photos/planetdust1/sets/72157630100411654

Obviously yours is a bit more elaborate than mine with the TRON stick, spinner and side-mounted discs, but I thought that might give you some motivation to keep working on it, or maybe you could "borrow" a few ideas.  I have a few more pics that haven't been added to the flickr photostream, so check back for updates.

[griffindodd]

Excellent thread and build so far.

Thanks for sharing your tips on laminate, I have mine sitting in a box in the garage and will be doing the same thing with my project very soon.

Joel

[wp34]

Thanks MaxVolume.  I like the artwork on your cabinet.  That Disc around your trackball is awesome.

[MaxVolume]

Thanks MaxVolume.  I like the artwork on your cabinet.  That Disc around your trackball is awesome.

Thanks.   I can't take credit for the sideart... found it here, I think.  Pretty sure it's the same guy who does the ENCOM mini-cab projects.  I had to modify it to fit my purposes, though.  The disc around the trackball was found online, but I did a LOT of tweaking because it wasn't quite as hi-res as it needed to be.  I was able to smooth it out without losing detail, and it does look kind of nice on the control panel.  Took several "test prints" to make sure it was in the right place, though.  I also instructed the sign shop to cut that hole first and make sure it was centered rather than worrying about the edges, etc.  I don't think they listened to me, but it did end up pretty much perfect.  I was really surprised that the rings around the joystick were also centered, because I was assuming one of the two were going to be off a little.  I probably should have sent my graphics out to be done on a bit heavier material, but what I have is nice and smooth and I remember "real" CPOs as being rather rough.  I can always have it redone if absolutely necessary, though.

Since I went with a translucent illuminated trackball, there's sort of the appearance that it's a glowing sphere in the center of the disc like when Flynn was "fixing" Quorra.  Unfortunately, I'm limited to just that trackball for racing games, so my joke is gonna be that it's really an advanced controller called a "DiscSphere".  There really wasn't room for anything else, so that's what I'm stuck with.  I'll probably get some sort of racing chassis for my console project in the future, but I didn't want to leave racing games like Pole Position out of this project.  They'll be in a separate category though, so if it's too annoying to use the trackball I can always drop them later.

[wp34]

Finally got the monitor mounted for (I hope) the last time.  It was sitting on my table for a few weeks and I was struck by just how big the thing looks.  Here is a picture next to my Galaga for scale.   



I made a bracket for the top of the glass out of MDF.  It will hopefully be the only exposed piece I have to paint.





Here is a picture of it mounted.  I think it turned out pretty good.  I'm anxious to see how it looks with the glass installed.


Here is the bottom mount for the glass.  It will be hidden by the control panel.


I cut a piece of scrap hardboard to the exact size I want for the glass.  This should hopefully make it so the glass fits right the first time.

[wp34]

Just some quick shots of the shelve I build for the computer.  Nothing special but it was fun to build.


I love clamps.






I needed a way to mount my smart strip.  I ended up taking it apart and put it back together screwing these braces in at the same time.
Then I could mount the smart strip using the braces.  This saved me screwing into the side of the smart strip.

[Nephasth]

I needed a way to mount my smart strip.  I ended up taking it apart and put it back together screwing these braces in at the same time.
Then I could mount the smart strip using the braces.  This saved me screwing into the side of the smart strip.

Just curious why you didn't use the mounting hole(s) of the smart strip. Red arrow, assuming there was another one under the green circle...

[wp34]

Just curious why you didn't use the mounting hole(s) of the smart strip. Red arrow, assuming there was another one under the green circle...

I should have been more clear.  The first time I mounted it using that method but was not happy with the results.   The smart strip wiggled a little and I wanted something more secure.  Just being picky I guess.

[Nephasth]

Ah, gotchya.

[wp34]

I came up with a method to hinge the top.  I'm not sure I'm going to keep it this way but thought I would document what I did regardless.

Basically I decided to build another box that would sit inside the CP.  This box is square and has a notch in the front so it can rest on the front of the external CP.

Here are a couple of shots of my practice piece.




Here is the finished box.


Opens nice and does the job.






I put pin holes in the back to help secure the box both when it is in and out.






I'm still deciding whether or not to keep this CP.  It just feels a little too big.   Also the internal CP box is a little awkward to get in and out. 
Adding controls will just exacerbate the problem.  Whether I do or don't it was fun coming up with a solution.

[wp34]

Ah, gotchya.

There might be a trick to mounting those power strips that I am unaware of.  I've just never been happy with the fit on any one I've ever done.

[mcseforsale]

Still a big fan of making my own.  A lot cheaper than a smart strip, too.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117977.msg1267034.html#msg1267034

AJ

[ChadTower]

I usually wad up some paper towel into the mounting hole.  That will give you enough padding in there to tighten up the mount without making it a real effort to pull off later.

[Santoro]

Honestly I think it the bigger box really messes up the aesthetics.   Personally I'd rather have a fixed CP top on that nice curved front than a big honking box that has easy hinged access. 

The craftsmanship and design of this cab are too nice to kludge up that way.. 

$0.02

[wp34]

Honestly I think it the bigger box really messes up the aesthetics.   Personally I'd rather have a fixed CP top on that nice curved front than a big honking box that has easy hinged access. 

The craftsmanship and design of this cab are too nice to kludge up that way.. 

$0.02

I agree.  It just seems a little big.  If I rebuild a smaller CP I don't think I'm going to curve it though.

[wp34]

Xiaou2 -

I appreciate you taking the time to make some mock-ups.  I do like the what you did with the plexi but that isn't really the look I'm going for and would be difficult to pull off effectively this late in the build.

[Hoopz]

Great looking cab! Love seeing it done even if it does make me feel inadequate with my handiwork.

[wp34]

Great looking cab! Love seeing it done even if it does make me feel inadequate with my handiwork.

Thanks Hoopz.  You need to start a build thread so I can decide whether or not you are inadequate. 

Sent from my Atari 800 mobile device using Tapatalk

[MaxVolume]

I usually wad up some paper towel into the mounting hole.  That will give you enough padding in there to tighten up the mount without making it a real effort to pull off later.

<cough> FIRE HAZARD <cough>

[wp34]

I decided to build another CP.  The size of my first one was really bugging me.  Not to mention the clunky way the lid came open.

I'm much happier with this one.  It is slightly narrower and fits the aesthetics of the cabinet much better. 



The lid opens real nice now.   

[mcseforsale]

In the words of the famous philosopher, Rocky Balboa...."That's Butiful".

AJ

[rablack97]

I decided to build another CP.  The size of my first one was really bugging me.  Not to mention the clunky way the lid came open.

I'm much happier with this one.  It is slightly narrower and fits the aesthetics of the cabinet much better. 



The lid opens real nice now.   

That might be ok, but i am weary of the scewing the hinge into the front of MDF, causes it to split....Considering you haven't even put your controls in yet, there will be added weight to the top when you open it up, and there will be a chance the hinge on the CP base will rip right out.

As clunky as you say your other idea was it was sturdier i think.....

http://rdowney.com/arcadeodyssey/cp/index.html

Check out that link the last 8 or so photos, same concept just different hinges and better support.....

[wp34]

In the words of the famous philosopher, Rocky Balboa...."That's Butiful".
AJ

Thanks AJ.

That might be ok, but i am weary of the scewing the hinge into the front of MDF, cause it to split....Considering you haven't even put your controls in yet, there will be added weight when you open it up, and there will be a chance the hinge on the CP base will rip right out.

As clunky as you say your other idea was it was sturdier i think.....

http://rdowney.com/arcadeodyssey/cp/index.html

Check out that link the last 8 or so photos, same concept just different hinges and better support.....

Thanks for the link.  Those hinges do look nice.  I'm expecting that since the piano hinges is 2 feet long the pressure will be spread more evenly across the front making it less likely to split or come loose.  Either way it is MDF so I will have to be careful opening and closing it once the controls are installed.

[Hoopz]

I dont think it'll be an issue.  I had a larger CP with more controls on it than most and used the same hinge.  I never had a problem.  As long as you don't allow the top to open all the way so the hinge is at 180 degrees, it's not going to hurt anything.

I liked the old CP but this one is good too.  Gonna put some controls on soon?  And are you painting or using an overlay?  Did I miss that?

[ChadTower]

I usually wad up some paper towel into the mounting hole.  That will give you enough padding in there to tighten up the mount without making it a real effort to pull off later.

<cough> FIRE HAZARD <cough>

That is no more of a fire hazard than putting an outlet strip onto a carpet.  It's outside the casing.

[wp34]

I dont think it'll be an issue.  I had a larger CP with more controls on it than most and used the same hinge.  I never had a problem.  As long as you don't allow the top to open all the way so the hinge is at 180 degrees, it's not going to hurt anything.

I liked the old CP but this one is good too.  Gonna put some controls on soon?  And are you painting or using an overlay?  Did I miss that?

Thanks Hoopz.  Good to know you did not have any trouble with the same setup.

I installed the Tron stick last night just to see how it looked.  I may cut holes for Player 1 and 2 next just to see if I am happy with the spacing.  The top that is on it now is just a template.

I'm still debating what to do with the CP top.  I have been playing around with laminate and EL Tape but have not been happy with the results.   

[mcseforsale]

Yeah, I'm not a fan of the piano hinge, but if you just put a limiting chain/wire on there, you're good.  That's a LOT of surface area, so it's pretty strong I'd imagine.

AJ

[wp34]

It is a nice thick piano hinge as well.  The Woodsmith Store had them on clearance for $10.

[MaxVolume]

I usually wad up some paper towel into the mounting hole.  That will give you enough padding in there to tighten up the mount without making it a real effort to pull off later.

<cough> FIRE HAZARD <cough>

That is no more of a fire hazard than putting an outlet strip onto a carpet.  It's outside the casing.

Not really... most of the time the "mounting hole" is cut into the housing, so anything "wadded up" in there is a prime target for sparks that may occur inside, and worse yet, the material may work itself inside the casing.  I was mostly joking, but it's probably not a good idea.  Also, a tiny wad of paper towel is going to catch fire much more quickly than carpet.

[MaxVolume]

I decided to build another CP.  The size of my first one was really bugging me.  Not to mention the clunky way the lid came open.

I'm much happier with this one.  It is slightly narrower and fits the aesthetics of the cabinet much better. 

Nice! 

[Hoopz]

Any progress on this?  More pics?

 

[wp34]

I've been mostly working on software and artwork so not much progress to document. I did build an XP64 machine with GroovyMAME only to find out the Mimo monitor I want to mount in the CP does not work with XP64.   

Since GroovyMAME doesn't work as well with Windows 7 I ended up having to start over with XP32.  Lost a lot of momentum on that one.

As much fun as the woodworking has been I'm finding the software to be a bit tedious.

[wp34]

My fall was busy with Band, Soccer, Football, Dance and now Basketball so I've not made much progress.  I've been mainly working on the software when I can.  The most recent milestone was to get the tinted glass installed.  The Bears game absolutely stunk today so I worked on that while I paid half attention to the game.

I ordered my glass from OneDayGlass.com and could not be happier.  Well I guess I would have been happier if the shipping were free but I digress.

Shape: Square/Rectangle
Glass Type: Tempered
Glass Thickness: 3/16"
Glass Tint: Solar Gray (Light Gray)
Edgework (Step 1): Seamed Edge
Option: No Tong Marks

It came boxed very well.





My special rubberized gloves.  These worked very well for installing the glass without leaving fingerprints.


It is hard to get a good picture but suffice it to say it looks great in person.  I went with the Solar Gray 31 because I was afraid of having too much tint.  It is a touch lighter than I wanted but it looks fantastic.  It is dark enough to give an "arcade" feel but light enough that the monitor didn't even need adjusting.

I've got GroovyMame configured and am using HeadKaze's CPwizard to drive the 2nd monitor.  The joystick I'm testing with his a piece of crap so I'm not worried (too much) about slowing down because the cabinet is technically "working". 

[BadMouth]

Lookin' good. 

[rbarr110]

Best looking set of gloves I have ever seen (damn vikings this weekend).  Oh, and the cab is looking great as well.

[wp34]

Lookin' good. 

Thanks BadMouth.

Best looking set of gloves I have ever seen (damn vikings this weekend).  Oh, and the cab is looking great as well.

Yeah if Hester would have been wearing my gloves he might not have dropped that easy pass in the red zone.   

[wp34]

Time to get back at it. 

This week I wired up my Happ Analog Trigger Stick to an A-Pac.  I decided to post some pictures because I had a hard time finding very good documentation while doing mine. 

Radio Shack had a six pin molex connector that mated perfectly with the Happ.  Sad will be the day when Radio Shack goes bye-bye. 



I wanted to match the colors of the wires as much as possible.  An old power supply I was going to throw away turned out to have every color I needed except brown--to which I substituted orange.



There were not enough wires coming out of the joystick to go into the A-Pac.  What I finally figured out was that the red wire was connected to both axis.   I had not seen that done in the examples I found on-line.


The red was combined at the molex connector.


Since I was out of wires it seemed logical to split the red and connect the wires to both axis of the A-Pac.  After a little trial and error it was working perfectly.  The A-Pac is really a great little board.