@ gbeef - My dips are 1,3,5 to the left all others to the right (voltage mode)
@badmouth - Thanks for testing that out for me, it's good to know at least. With that being said the more I think about it the more it doesn't
really matter. As far as I can tell the "offset" pot on the amc is basically to compensate for that exact thing. The manual says "Offset / Test. Used to adjust any imbalance in the input signal or in the amplifier." So even though the ffb doesn't correct itself which I would think that it should? I think we can manually do it without too much trouble
This is my note taking for the night basically in this order, I don't want to muck around too much with adjusting the potentiometers and stuff just yet because believe it or not my wheel works really good
0.86v measured from current monitor output (pin 8 on amc where 3.8 amps = 1V) at highest... Max explosion
0.86 x 3.8 = 3.268 amps
Think I did this right
***** Although it looks a little confusing/boring there is some potentially very useful info here just read to the bottom*******
If your super lazy just read the bottom part
Logitech motor outputs with centering feedback at 12%
Full left - minus1.31v
Full right - 1.80 v
Center - 0.20v
Explosion 9.5v Max approx
Logitech motor outputs at 100%
Full left - minus 11.14v
Full right - 11.15v
Center - 0.20v
Explosion 9.5v max approx
Both these move smoothly from 0v center to the Max v at either side full lock
Happ motor center 0.01v has been corrected for using offset
Centering at 12%
Full left - minus 16.48v
Full right - 16.47v
Explosion - 23.6 v Max approx
Move to 100% centering
Rattle obviously
Can't test most because wheel is barely responsive
*** These seemed a little different (lower then what I remembered) to me for some reason possibly related to below... I acidentally unplugged my wheel from the computer and replugged it in. When I re-checked the voltages to make sure they were correct I noticed they were different.. After checking them all more then once the first time. Which leads me to more exploration.
#Take 2
unplug and plug in without opening main calibration type page in windows game controllers. The one where you can see the wheel move back and forth
Logitech motor outputs at 12%
Full left - minus 7.55v
Full right - 8.05 v
Center - 0.24v
Explosion - can't test without window open
Opening calibration window
Logitech motor outputs at 12%
Full left - minus1.31v
Full right - 1.80 v
Center - 0.20v
Explosion 9.5v Max approx
Close widow without unplugging
Logitech motor outputs at 12%
Full left - minus1.65v
Full right - 1.80 v
Center - 0.20v
Explosion 9.5v Max approx
Same as above
Unplugging and only opening Logitech profiler
Logitech motor outputs at 12%
Full left - minus 7.55v
Full right - 8.05 v
Center - 0.24v
Explosion - can't test without window open
Happ motor outputs Logitech centeringat 12%
Full left - minus 23.7v
Full right - 23.6 v
Center - 0.00v
Explosion - can't test without window open
Happ motor outputs Logitech centering at 100%
Full left - minus 23.7v
Full right - 23.6 v
Center - 0.00v
Explosion - can't test without window open
No rattle wtf?With centering at 100% still
Open up windows game controllers screen
Rattle
Close windows controllers screen
Still rattle
So in clonclusion I don't really know what the hell is going on but I think it's safe to say that windows game controller screen where you see the wheel move will without a doubt change how your wheel reacts. Obviously when I tested mine I used the windows screen to calibrate the wheel and test explosions and stuff.... but I must have either restarted the computer or unplugged my wheel before I went through and used my voltmeter to calibrate the amc.
People with problems try either unplugging or restarting and NOT opening up windows game controller screen, set up your amc with a voltmeter to adjust input gain etc and see how your wheel reacts. This may very well have been what I did (cant confirm) but at the time not thought anything of it and assumed they were both working equally. This may also explain why I "setup" the amc probably 20 or so different times
. It basically got to a point once that it worked perfectly so I left it and have tried to muck around with it as little as possible so as to not screw anything up.
This would explain why my wheel works in windows game controller screen (which I now know is probably at a much lower voltage) and why my wheel still feels great during games. If other people are setting their wheels in windows game controller screen (like I've been telling people to do [I was only trying to help
]) Then when they load a game it'll be WAY to high.
Hopefully it can help, at the very least add to the research that there definitely are some strange things going on here