New Astro City (light) restoration

[opt2not]

Picked up another cabinet for really cheap. The seller said he had a bunch of Japanese Candy-style cabinets with broken monitors he's getting rid. I asked him what were the monitor problems and he said he didn't know, just when the machine stopped working, he pulled them off the line and into storage.  So, I ended up going down there to look, figuring if I could get one with a monitor that was repairable, it would be a good deal. To my surprise, the first cabinet I pointed out had a working monitor! Looked like his MVS board wasn't booting up, but he said he'll give it to me for the price we negotiated anyways, sans boards. Lucky!


The cabinet in is decent shape, there's very little work on it to get it looking presentable. My initial plan is to clean it up and leave it as a Jamma cabinet for boards I want to collect. First up is a MVS with a few games.

I threw in a Soul Edge board to see if the monitor is in fact good...and yah-boy it is!


I ended up taking it apart, so that I can fit it through my office door, and while I was at it, I might as well clean up the dusty/grimy insides:


There we go, clean base:



The control panel has a Blast City panel with a JLF and 4 Sanwa buttons per player.  I'm going to eventually replace this with a proper Astro panel. I've cleaned up the hardware and in the CP the best I could. The buttons still feel fine, though the completely wrong colours...but the JLF's springs feel a bit too worn. I'm going to just replace the springs instead of buying a completely new set of joysticks.


The speaker surround, and coin insert was really yellow from age. This is a common problem with these cabinets, due to those parts being made of ABS plastic. Apparently the bromide in ABS plastic yellow when exposed to UV light over time. In any case, I replaced the coin insert with a NOS one:


Then worked on repainting the Speaker Surround (used Rustoleum All-Surface White -- seemed to do the trick).
Before:

After:


The speaker areas had damage to the corners, so I putty'd them up with some latex acrylic, let it set, sanded it down smooth (same with the entire surround). Then I gave it a few coats of paint, whiles sanding in-between.


Installed a new PCB Board, with a 1-slot (MV-FZ) MVS board, playing one of my favourite shooters -- Blazing Star.


That's pretty much it for the hard stuff (a pretty light resto eh?). All that's left is replacing the CP with a proper one, change the ball-tops and buttons to the proper Green and Pink format, install locks on the service doors, and we're done!

Here's some current state money shots:



 

[Paladin]

Nice job!  When I had an Astro City I left the speaker panel yellowed, yours looks so much better! 

I'd recommend you replace the power cord with a grounded one as well.  Cut the end off an extension cable, hook the white and black wires to the same places they go now, and route the green ground wire to the bolt with all the other green wires on it.
Better safe than sorry.

[amendonz]

nice!

[emphatic]

Can't believe I missed this thread. Nice work on the speaker panel repaint. I've seen someone paint that black and it looked great, but you're keeping it as originally intended, so you've done well. 

You know you can get nice repro panels from here: http://triplemoonstar.brinkster.net/mcs/default.asp?subcat=181 and overlays from the same place here: http://triplemoonstar.brinkster.net/mcs/default.asp?subcat=172

With those prices, you can get a 1-player panel and a 2-player panel for about the same price as NOS original one. Also, the MCS panels will fit Seimitsu sticks with no problems (the LS-32 is superior to the SANWA JLF for shmups).

[opt2not]

I was looking at MCS's site, and it's not that much different than ordering an already CPO'd unpopulated Astro panel from akihabarashop. They have one for sale at 8,290¥, which comes out to about $100 CAD for me. MCS has blank ones for about $60, and CPO's for $50. I would want to get both since I'm trying to get this close to original looking.
Besides, I need to order some more parts too so getting a shipment from akiharbara would probably work out better.

I plan on having 2 CP's that I can swap in & out, one for fighters that consist of Sanwa JLF's (currently have) and buttons, and another panel (either 1p or 2p) that are for Shmups/Shooters that is populated with Seimitsu parts.
One thing I noticed with this current Blast City panel is that it's impossible to mount my LS-32 onto it, as it looks like it was built for JLF's. My LS-32 mounting plate holes don't line up to the panel's mounting screws.
When I buy (or trade) for another panel, I might have to get a specific mounting plate for the LS-32 but I don't know which one is supposed to fit. Anyone have any incites? I might have to just bit the bullet and get a panel from MCS...

Other notes:
I tried to get the marquee lighting to work by replacing the florescent bulb, but that didn't work due to the fact the starter bulb on it was broken off. Literally. I had to use needle-nose pliers to unscrew the broken bulb out of it's holder.  
Finding a replacement locally has been next to impossible, and doing a search on the net has brought up these two links:
http://www.normanlamps.com/product_info.php/cPath/119/products_id/6094
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/56429/PART-TMFG1E.html


I've also got a proper sized wooden PCB board installed, with my MVS board mounted in the cabinet.  Currently playing some Strikers 1945 Plus! Good game but ramps up really difficult.


**edit, found a local place that carries the FG-1E fluorescent starter!
http://www.amresupply.com/product/FG-1E

[kampcool]

What a super cool Cab, Ive never seen one of these before this post.  Its like a modern NeoGeo, with style.  Great find   

[opt2not]

What a super cool Cab, Ive never seen one of these before this post.  Its like a modern NeoGeo, with style.  Great find   

These candy cabinets are great little machines, perfect as a swap-able (jamma) unit. So easy to swap boards in and out of this machine, just open the door, pull out the PCB wooden board, install the new pcb onto it then put it back in and plug!
I eventually want to install a PC into this thing for Mame, steam games, and indie releases. But for now, I like using dedicated hardware.

[emphatic]

Yeah, Akihabarashop is superb to deal with as well. Ask them if they have any ideas as to mount an LS-32-01 in the panel, perhaps they know just the thing. MCS has great stuff, but is very hard to get hold of (he has an illness apparently that acts up from time to time).

What parts are on your list? When in doubt, get some extras, as the shipping is the bulk of the price. I have lots of experience with Akihabarashop as well as shopping for Candy control panels, so ask away. 

[opt2not]

What parts are on your list? When in doubt, get some extras, as the shipping is the bulk of the price. I have lots of experience with Akihabarashop as well as shopping for Candy control panels, so ask away. 

- LS-32 Round Restrictor Plate x2
- New green and pink Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons for a 12B panel
- Astro City 2L12B empty panel
- New ball-tops (most likely mesh pattern)
- a few connectors for my shmup panel (which is looking like I'll be making a trade for my BC panel for a 2L6B Astro one) for easily swapping in & out
- Shaft covers (I've always liked the look of the same colour shafts and ball-tops)
- Depending on what I hear back from them, possibly mounting plates for the seimitsu sticks

I also plan on getting a new Marquee holder from FrancoB, (along with hopefully that Supa-tight LS-32 mod! )

[emphatic]

- LS-32 Round Restrictor Plate x2
- New green and pink Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons for a 12B panel
- Astro City 2L12B empty panel
- New ball-tops (most likely mesh pattern)
- a few connectors for my shmup panel (which is looking like I'll be making a trade for my BC panel for a 2L6B Astro one) for easily swapping in & out
- Shaft covers (I've always liked the look of the same colour shafts and ball-tops)
- Depending on what I hear back from them, possibly mounting plates for the seimitsu sticks

I also plan on getting a new Marquee holder from FrancoB, (along with hopefully that Supa-tight LS-32 mod! )

So the shmup panel is going to be for 2 players as well? 2L6B are quite rare I think. Are you getting yellow start buttons as well? Mesh balls look great. Do yourself a favour and ask them about the connectors for your panel, as they are very easy to get wrong by just looking at the pictures. And don't forget to buy the pins for them.

I would get some extra Seimitsu plates so you can drill holes in them as a last solution for them to fit your panel.

[opt2not]

Yeah, the only reason I'm not going with a 1P panel for shmuppin' is that I might have someone over at the Neo-Geo Forums that is willing to trade me a 2L6B for my Blast panel. I hope it goes through, 'cause I would love to have a 2L6B panel. I also only have one candy cabinet, (no room for more) so a 2 player panel may be best.  Eventually I'll tate the monitor when I'm bored of the horizontal shooters.

Good call on the yellow start buttons, I totally forgot about them. I'll definitely confirm the connectors from them and won't forget to get pins I will be using quick disconnects from my LS-32 since they're the non-PCB switches ones. So I'll be wiring them directly to those connectors.
Also good call on the plates. I've already submitted an inquiry about what plates would work for a sanwa-mount control panel for my LS-32's.
How is akihabara with shipping? Ever had any problems?

[emphatic]

Yeah, the only reason I'm not going with a 1P panel for shmuppin' is that I might have someone over at the Neo-Geo Forums that is willing to trade me a 2L6B for my Blast panel. I hope it goes through, 'cause I would love to have a 2L6B panel. I also only have one candy cabinet, (no room for more) so a 2 player panel may be best.  Eventually I'll tate the monitor when I'm bored of the horizontal shooters.

Get a 1L6B panel later on, because most of the time you will play alone, and it's much better, ergonomically speaking. I have a friend who had neck pains after playing way too much ESPGALUDA on his 2-player panel.  Changing the panel if you have friends over is a 5 minute job at the most.

Good call on the yellow start buttons, I totally forgot about them. I'll definitely confirm the connectors from them and won't forget to get pins I will be using quick disconnects from my LS-32 since they're the non-PCB switches ones. So I'll be wiring them directly to those connectors.
Also good call on the plates. I've already submitted an inquiry about what plates would work for a sanwa-mount control panel for my LS-32's.

Yeah, I'm sure it's not impossible to either just add some holes to an RE-plate (the flat one) or make plates yourself (or have someone else do it). It's not like you have to do it all over when the sticks are worn out. 

How is akihabara with shipping? Ever had any problems?

Never had a problem. The only mistake I made with them was not paying attention while making orders, so I ended up with 45 mm balls instead of 35 once (they sent me 35 ones free of charge) and also I didn't see that their quick disconnects came in 100 piece packs, so I was like "how in the hell did the price go up so much" when I tried to buy 50 pieces. 

If you go with EMS shipping, you will have the stuff super-fast. I highly recommend it. They always take a picture of the stuff and e-mail you when they are about to ship it out as well.

[opt2not]

Got my sound amp in the mail today.

One step closer to getting all the pieces...still no luck on that CP trade. I think I'm going to wait a few more weeks before I resort to just buying NOS ones.

[JoeB]

nice restore!

There's a few parts I'm looking for to complete my NAC .. am also located in Canada. 

- the bolts that hold the CP down (I only have 3, but this uses 6.. will jump at 6 new shiny ones with the nuts)
- the plastic cap at the back, that closes the hole best where the AC cable connects. What can I use here?

I got a crack in the middle of my CP top (the plastic the overlay bolts into).  I got crazy quotes for replacements.  Any suggestions on what product/process to fix it/paint it?

[emphatic]

nice restore!

There's a few parts I'm looking for to complete my NAC .. am also located in Canada. 

- the bolts that hold the CP down (I only have 3, but this uses 6.. will jump at 6 new shiny ones with the nuts)

These? http://www.lizardlick.com/Carriage-Bolt-8-32-x-12-Nickel_p_26.html

Control panel carriage bolts are also available from Akihabarashop (I knew there was something I forgot to mention before  )

[JoeB]

Actually, here's the correct bolts/nuts for NAC:

http://www.giz10p.co.uk/Cabinet-Parts/Fixings/m4-x-16mm-Chrome-Carriage-Bolt-6-Pack-/prod_176.html
http://www.giz10p.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=213

But,

- it's in the UK (shipping is crazy!)
- the flange nuts are out of stock
- I can't believe a local USA/Canada doesn't have this size!

Anyone?

[emphatic]

What is a flange nut?

If Opt2Not hasn't yet sent his order to Akihabarashop in Japan, you could ask him to get some nuts/bolts for you as for himself.

http://www.akihabarashop.jp/index.php?cPath=141&osCsid=f4028d25a7bf8c2889fe3b373a2da5d2

Oh, and since you are in Canada, here's a shop you should check out: http://canadianjoysticks.com/

[JoeB]

Thanks!

See 2nd link above to see a picture of the flange nuts that are used in metal/plastic control panels.

[opt2not]

- the plastic cap at the back, that closes the hole best where the AC cable connects. What can I use here?

That plastic cap is just a hole plug. Akiharbara sells these too:
http://www.akihabarashop.jp/index.php?cPath=458&osCsid=f4028d25a7bf8c2889fe3b373a2da5d2

I got a crack in the middle of my CP top (the plastic the overlay bolts into).  I got crazy quotes for replacements.  Any suggestions on what product/process to fix it/paint it?

You should also look into reenforcing that area, since it might load-bare the CP.
I'm assuming you want to make sure it's structurally sound, being that the metal control panel bolts into it.

I used a latex acrylic to repair the cracks on my speaker housing, but I wouldn't recommend it for the CP plastic. I'm not sure what the CP is made up of, but the Speaker housing is ABS plastic (which is why it yellows over time - see yellowing explanation here).

I've read that the cabinet shell has a gelcoat finish, which is similar to the coating on boats. So if the CP plastic is the same, you could bond the crack with some type of adhesive, then repair the gelcoat.


But I'm not sure what the CP plastic is made up of.
The other option is just to glue/seal the crack, reenforce it, sand the plastic down smooth, prime then repaint & sand & repaint & sand it the way I did for my speaker surround. You won't get a perfect match to the cabinet, but it's better than nothing, and easier. Not sure how well it will turn out though, doing on my speaker housing was fine because it's has a smaller surface area and should be untouched by people.

If Opt2Not hasn't yet sent his order to Akihabarashop in Japan, you could ask him to get some nuts/bolts for you as for himself.

I have yet to make my order. I'm holding off on a few things, one being hopefully trading my Blast CP so that I don't need to buy a NOS 2L12B Astro panel, and the other reason is I'm holding out for those PS360+'s.
There are a few small things I'm going to order there as well like AMP pin connectors, and cable fasteners (the ones I have are cracking and lost their adhesiveness).

Do you guys know where I can source the bolts that secure the marquee to the speaker housing?  The hex-looking ones...akiharbara doesn't carry those ones and I'm missing a couple.

[emphatic]

I have yet to make my order. I'm holding off on a few things, one being hopefully trading my Blast CP so that I don't need to buy a NOS 2L12B Astro panel, and the other reason is I'm holding out for those PS360+'s.
There are a few small things I'm going to order there as well like AMP pin connectors, and cable fasteners (the ones I have are cracking and lost their adhesiveness).

Do you guys know where I can source the bolts that secure the marquee to the speaker housing?  The hex-looking ones...akiharbara doesn't carry those ones and I'm missing a couple.

The PS360+ are well worth waiting for. It seems now that they're going to support even more stuff than PS3/360/PC and come with RJ45 socket built in for real easy multi-console modding.

I have no idea about the hex bolts, you should ask the friendly bunch over at AO. I only know TAITO stuff.  Get some extra control panel bolts though, they are cheap and almost impossible to find in the US or over here in Europe.

[opt2not]

The PS360+ are well worth waiting for. It seems now that they're going to support even more stuff than PS3/360/PC and come with RJ45 socket built in for real easy multi-console modding.

I know I know, I can't wait!
I wonder if there will be DC support...otherwise, I might have to either hack up some controllers (and by I, I mean HarumaN... ), or wait for the DreamPCB's which seem like they're taking forever to come out.

I have no idea about the hex bolts, you should ask the friendly bunch over at AO. I only know TAITO stuff.  Get some extra control panel bolts though, they are cheap and almost impossible to find in the US or over here in Europe.

Good idea, couldn't hurt to have extras.

I got a lead on a 2L6B panel that I might be able to trade for. I wouldn't mind a 1L panel like you've suggested, but for now I think I'm going to go with the 2L, so I can still enjoy some multiplayer shmuppin'.  This panel would be my shmup one, with installed Seimitsu parts. After playing a bunch of shmups these last couple years, on both a JLF and JLW, I can now see why an LS-32 would be better for those games. You really need that small-actuation of switches, for the small movements, and less throw would help too. The Sanwa parts are my choice of joysticks for non-shooting games like versus fighters, brawlers, platformers etc...but for Shmuppin' I prefer the tighter feel of the LS-32's.

Today I received a small package in the mail:

FG-1E starters for the marquee lamp! I can finally have some marquee lighting, if they work...I just hope my ballast is good.

[opt2not]

Easy fix for the marquee light  :

[emphatic]

 

[JoeB]

Very nice, I went a different route on my marquee light .. I got an 18" light fixture from home depot, and replaced the entire circuit board on the NAC, reusing the bulb holders + chassis.  It looks the same as the NAC light fixture, but now uses modern caps + resistors, rather than a starter.

Many ways to skin a cat I guess. 

[opt2not]

Tiny update:

It seems that getting free time this summer for anything hobby related has been quite a task in itself. Too many weekend trips, too many events!
But I was able to get a trade for my blast panel, so I quickly installed it with the seimitsu parts I was planning for this:


This is going to be my Shmup/Shooter panel,  I plan on getting a 12B panel for fighters, later that'll hold all Sanwa parts.
I still have a few hardware things I want to add to this one, like shaft and dust covers. But so far I'm happy with the choice colours, sort of stock looking, but updated a little.
The panel itself is in ok shape, there's a bit of rust underneath but it's not too bad.

[emphatic]

Great, you found one!

[BurgerKingDiamond]

Jealous.

[opt2not]

Changed the button colour inserts and swapped the balltops. This is the final plan for the Shmup panel.
I recently recieved a Metal Slug X move-strip, i like how it looks!







Not really anything ground-breaking, but still nice to look at

[amendonz]

Gotta love the Candy's, looks great. 

[opt2not]

Oh, and since you are in Canada, here's a shop you should check out: http://canadianjoysticks.com/

I ended up ordering a few things from Canadian Joysticks, didn't realize they are located in my city! They shipped my order and it arrived the next day!!   

Thanks for the heads-up Emphatic!

[opt2not]

I started this a few weeks ago. Inspired by FrancoB's Jamma/DC-360 box.  Putting in a few hours here and there, this weekend I just finished my 360-to-Jamma interface to connect to my NAC. I went the Emphatic route and used a UVC, but for the controls I have 2x madcatz Arcade Gamestick controllers which were pretty easy to hack (common ground, easy to solder connections). I could have waited for the PS360+ akiharbara shop keeps promising, but I have no more patience to wait for them. Remarkably, it all fit snug in my project box:


All the button outputs from the controllers to a DB25 connection (in fact all the components are wired with the idea in mind to be able to pull them out of the box easily), and goes to the jamma edge. I used stand-offs to stack the two controllers together, and also the Microphone connection for the Gamestick controllers are really easy to mount, so I de-soldered it, extended the wires and mounted it to the project box extruding out the side.


I've got 2 USB pass-throughs, a VGA pass-through, a kick-harness connector, a 2-pin 12v connector (for supplying 12v to an auto-switching relay to my Nanao MS9 dual-rez monitor for 24khz).  On the other side, the microphone jack, and there's a switch that changes the 3rd and 6th button (Fierce punch, and Roundhouse Kick) from RT & RB, to LT & LB. This was more for me to have access to those buttons if needed.  Sorry for the crummy iphone pictures:


Anyways, I went this route because I wanted to leave the cabinet un-touched by having a true jamma interface. I want to keep the cabinet jamma, so I can run real boards off it. I'm somewhat handy with soldering, and I had a bunch of parts lying around already from previous projects, so this was a no-brainer.
I also wanted to have a box I can easily transfer to a friend's machine if need-be without hassles.

[opt2not]

A few weeks ago I received a Nanao MS9 15/24kHz relay switch kit from the talented FrancoB.

From Franco's description:

"basically it allows you to change between 15kHz and 24kHz without having to manually having to move the plug on the chassis which can be a pain to get to.

With no power applied to the relays the monitor will run at 15kHz, if you power the relays with 12v the monitor will run at 24kHz. The relays can be powered from the Jamma edge from a pass though or from another 12v source."

The relay kit is attached to my 12v line, installed on the box which pulls from the cabinet's Jamma connector. Here are a few shots of the monitor running at 24khz:






The image is crisp and bright, I love how SSF4:AE looks, and sprite games look great too! The biggest different you immediately see is being able to properly read small fonts. The lines are so a crisp!

[opt2not]

Got a new 2L12B panel! Now with stock colours!

[sharpfork]

I really like the way you did the Jamma conversion in a project box.  I'm on a super tight project budget so my cabinets always lack the polish that you have.

[opt2not]

Not really a big change, but I finally rotated my monitor to play that Raiden DX board I recently repaired:


Took me and a friend of mine to lift and turn this massive monitor, but it was worth it.

Also updated my Shmuppin' panel (2L6B) a couple months ago, using new Seimitsu parts: LS-58 joys (w/ octo-gates and matching shaft covers) and PS-14-GN buttons.

LS-58's are amazing for shooters. They have a much tighter throw than the LS-32's, and their actuation is lighter so hitting those small quick movements for bullet dodging is a lot easier. I will never go back to LS-32's again!

[emphatic]

I will never go back to LS-32's again!

+1. I've yet to try the 58's, but the LS-56-01's are superb so next time I'll try the 58's. Only the spring differs after all. Very curious about the SANWA JLW as well, apparently their throw/engage is even tighter.

[BurgerKingDiamond]

ugh now I have to buy a 58. I've been using the 32, which I've gotten pretty used to. Will the 58 drop right in to the same mounting plate?

[opt2not]

+1. I've yet to try the 58's, but the LS-56-01's are superb so next time I'll try the 58's. Only the spring differs after all. Very curious about the SANWA JLW as well, apparently their throw/engage is even tighter.

I've been using JLW's in my cocktail and I do agree their engaging actuation is tighter than the LS-32's. But the JLW "feels" more solid and less "swimmy" than the LS-32.
The one thing I like about the LS-58's is the light amount of pressure it takes to activate the switches, which I'm assuming is similar to the 56's.

ugh now I have to buy a 58. I've been using the 32, which I've gotten pretty used to. Will the 58 drop right in to the same mounting plate?

BKD you should really try out the 58's or 56's. They're like buttah.

My 2L6B panel is one of the old style seimitsu ones, which I believe was factory stocked for LS-32's:


LS-32 mount


The bases that the LS56/LS58's use have plate-attachment holes that are spaced 40mm apart. The LS32 holes are 50mm apart. I ended up drilling the holes needed into my existing mounting plates:




The only thing I needed to worry about was the original 50mm holes have a bit of a lip on the underside of the plate, but as you can see, the stick base sits on to of the lip and doesn't really make a big difference for the length of the stick above the panel.


 The lip accounts for 2mm of distance subtracted from the shaft length above the panel, The shafts for the LS-56/58's are slightly longer than the 32's anyway, so it's all good!

[JoeB]

Most NAC panels I've seen are different than what you got there.  The LS32s connect with no metal plate at all. The mounting plates that are welded to the control panel are located on the left/right of the hole.  Yours seem to be on the top/bottom.

How did the LS32s connect to the wire harness? Mine use the multi-pin single connector rather than each wire connects on its own to the joystick (like US joysticks)

My ultimate dream is to get a U360 into my NAC.. It uses the same plate at JLW .. Not sure how to easily move from 2 horizontal screws to something that has screws offset in the corners.

[opt2not]

Most NAC panels I've seen are different than what you got there.  The LS32s connect with no metal plate at all. The mounting plates that are welded to the control panel are located on the left/right of the hole.  Yours seem to be on the top/bottom.

Yup. My 2L6B panel is one of the old style seimitsu ones, (I believe the part # is CQN-2000, but I have to confirm this) not the newer HOT-2005.  LS-32's are not able to attach to the HOT-2005 mounts without a plate because the joystick base holes to not line up.  You are most likely thinking about the Sanwa JLF's which can be mounted to an HOT-2005 without a plate (my 2L12B panel does this. I use that panel for fighters).  JLF's have 2 base holes that are on the sides, whereas LS-32 bases have 4 holes on the base for attaching to a mounting plate.

How did the LS32s connect to the wire harness? Mine use the multi-pin single connector rather than each wire connects on its own to the joystick (like US joysticks)

My ultimate dream is to get a U360 into my NAC.. It uses the same plate at JLW .. Not sure how to easily move from 2 horizontal screws to something that has screws offset in the corners.

They were actually LS-32-01's that have the PCB and header connection -- I wrote just LS-32 for simplicity, but they are actually -01's. My panels have the stock sega wiring harnesses that uses the AMP connectors. My LS-58-01's are wired the same.