Some JAMMA questions, need help

[vintagegamer]

I brought home a Lucky and Wild game a few weeks ago, the flyback was shot, and the connector going into the boardset had some burn on it.  I've rebuilt the monitor chassis so the video is back up and running, but I need some help with bringing the boardset back to life as this is my first JAMMA project.  Some questions I have are:

1. if I need to buy a new adapter card, can someone tell me what I have now and where to get a replacement?
2. should I be able to use the existing connector, even though it was burned?  Or do I have to replace?
3. are there any other fuses in this game that I need to check aside from the 1A slow blow that I found mounted on the back wall of the game?
4. any other misc feedback would be great!

Thanks in advance.

[vintagegamer]

Photos of the boards:

[vintagegamer]

Current display on monitor after chassis rebuild:

[HaRuMaN]

Off topic...  is that a Virtual On I see in your first pic?

[vintagegamer]

Off topic...  is that a Virtual On I see in your first pic?

I think they were in a former life- they were sitting where I picked up the Lucky and Wild, and I only had enough room and time to take 1 game with me.  It was a horrible moment LOL.

[BobA]

I would replace the jamma connector/harness if the existing one is burned.   A new harness is relatively cheap.

Lucky & Wild is listed as a JAMMA cab on KLOV so not sure what adapter card you are looking for.

[RayB]

First step is measuring voltages coming from the power supply. Those need to be within range and stable.

1. if I need to buy a new adapter card, can someone tell me what I have now and where to get a replacement?

I don't know what you mean by adapter card. That thing the main board is plugged into? That's not a standard JAMMA thing, so you're not likely to find another one easily. What's wrong with it that you suspect it's bad? Is the burn on that thing? I'd unplug it, clean the board connector traces with a pink eraser, plug it back in. Clean up any burnt connectors (jumper them if they are burnt up beyond use anymore).

2. should I be able to use the existing connector, even though it was burned?  Or do I have to replace?

Inspect the metal contacts. Might be best to replace, but if the burning is only in the plastic, then you're fine.

3. are there any other fuses in this game that I need to check aside from the 1A slow blow that I found mounted on the back wall of the game?

Usually only that one.

4. any other misc feedback would be great!

The green on the monitor concerns me, but we won't know for sure uintil you get a proper signal going to it.

[vintagegamer]

Thanks for your help Ray, see below:

First step is measuring voltages coming from the power supply. Those need to be within range and stable.

That I have done, and they all check out.

1. if I need to buy a new adapter card, can someone tell me what I have now and where to get a replacement?

I don't know what you mean by adapter card. That thing the main board is plugged into? That's not a standard JAMMA thing, so you're not likely to find another one easily. What's wrong with it that you suspect it's bad? Is the burn on that thing? I'd unplug it, clean the board connector traces with a pink eraser, plug it back in. Clean up any burnt connectors (jumper them if they are burnt up beyond use anymore).

From what I am told the thing the main board is plugged into is some kind of Namco adapter.  I can't find anything that looks like it on the Web though.  And yes, that's where the burn was.  There's a white connector on it that you can see in the pics I posted.  It's a little square 9-pin mobob.

2. should I be able to use the existing connector, even though it was burned?  Or do I have to replace?

Inspect the metal contacts. Might be best to replace, but if the burning is only in the plastic, then you're fine.

3. are there any other fuses in this game that I need to check aside from the 1A slow blow that I found mounted on the back wall of the game?

Usually only that one.

OK great.

The green on the monitor concerns me, but we won't know for sure uintil you get a proper signal going to it.

This is a recent rebuild of the monitor chassis including a new flyback so, nothing has been "dialed in" yet as far as the appearance goes.  Hopefully that will improve once I get an image from the PCB on there.

[RayB]

Yeah replace the whole connector.

[vintagegamer]

Yeah replace the whole connector.

That's where I have a challenge currently.  I've checked the jammaboards site and did not see a connector like it.  I was thinking about using a 9-pin molex connector from an Atari linear PS board, but I'm not sure if the dimensions are the same or not.  I have to check it out this week.

Are you by chance familiar with any place that would carry that connector in its current form?

[DillonFoulds]

Umm, kind of off topic, but you know how BYOAC rolls....

On the picture of the monitor that is really green washed-out, there's those zig-zag/spiraling green lines. My monitor gets these even with perfect color showing. Is there something that can be done to fix them easily? I've been wanting to make a thread in the monitor section about them, but they're too faint for me to get a nice picture of, unfortunately, just bright enough for them to show up when playing...

[vintagegamer]

Umm, kind of off topic, but you know how BYOAC rolls....

On the picture of the monitor that is really green washed-out, there's those zig-zag/spiraling green lines. My monitor gets these even with perfect color showing. Is there something that can be done to fix them easily? I've been wanting to make a thread in the monitor section about them, but they're too faint for me to get a nice picture of, unfortunately, just bright enough for them to show up when playing...

Great so you're telling me they might be there to stay?  This just keeps getting better!

[vintagegamer]

And here are pics of the connector in question that goes from the harness to the game board cage.  I need to know what kind of connector this little b!tch is.  It's .5x.5" in size.

[vintagegamer]

my hand-drawn version of the keys:

[HaRuMaN]

Any markings on the connector itself?

[vintagegamer]

Any markings on the connector itself?

Nope, nothing at all.

[DillonFoulds]

Great so you're telling me they might be there to stay?  This just keeps getting better!

No, just wondering if it's like a cap that i can replace or maybe an IC to make my lines go away. Just that I've got the same lines, but IDK how repairable it is. Would be nice to know if it's a service-able issue.

[vintagegamer]

Great so you're telling me they might be there to stay?  This just keeps getting better!

No, just wondering if it's like a cap that i can replace or maybe an IC to make my lines go away. Just that I've got the same lines, but IDK how repairable it is. Would be nice to know if it's a service-able issue.

What you're seeing on my pic is via a freshly-rebuilt K7000, so hopefully it's something that will go away!

[MonMotha]

That connector is the AAMA standard dollar bill validator connector.  It's an AMP "Commercial Mate-n-Lock" series.

As for the monitor, reduce green cutoff and maybe drive (both on neckboard).  Also perhaps turn down screen control (on flyback).  If that doesn't fix it, check green drive transistor and RGB amp.  If those are good, you may have a tube short (possibly work-around-able).

[vintagegamer]

That connector is the AAMA standard dollar bill validator connector.  It's an AMP "Commercial Mate-n-Lock" series.

As for the monitor, reduce green cutoff and maybe drive (both on neckboard).  Also perhaps turn down screen control (on flyback).  If that doesn't fix it, check green drive transistor and RGB amp.  If those are good, you may have a tube short (possibly work-around-able).

Thank you!!!!!!!!

[TOK]

Umm, kind of off topic, but you know how BYOAC rolls....

On the picture of the monitor that is really green washed-out, there's those zig-zag/spiraling green lines. My monitor gets these even with perfect color showing. Is there something that can be done to fix them easily? I've been wanting to make a thread in the monitor section about them, but they're too faint for me to get a nice picture of, unfortunately, just bright enough for them to show up when playing...

Great so you're telling me they might be there to stay?  This just keeps getting better!

Those are retrace lines. In your case, since the monitor isn't adjusted, it may simply be a matter of the brightness being cranked too high.

[RayB]

A local electronics shop shold carry a connector like that. Not Radio Shack, but the warehouse type places that cater to businesses. For example here there's a chain called Sayal.

Anyways you know what, you should be able to get the game working with the current connector, assuming the pins aren't all burnt up. Get it working first and then replace the connector as a "long term" safety fix.

[vintagegamer]

A local electronics shop shold carry a connector like that. Not Radio Shack, but the warehouse type places that cater to businesses. For example here there's a chain called Sayal.

Anyways you know what, you should be able to get the game working with the current connector, assuming the pins aren't all burnt up. Get it working first and then replace the connector as a "long term" safety fix.

Thanks- a couple of the pins are actually black, and the one that plugs into the connector on the adapter board has some of the plastic missing.  I'll be able to replace both parts once I can get a lock on exactly what part number they are.  A friend at KLOV is also helping me out, and came up with this:

http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/pn/en/172161-1

Both sites have been invaluable in helping to figure this out!

[RayB]

Also note that instead of replacing just one "side" and hoping it matches the other side, order both male and female sides and replace both if necessary

[vintagegamer]

That connector is the AAMA standard dollar bill validator connector.  It's an AMP "Commercial Mate-n-Lock" series.

As for the monitor, reduce green cutoff and maybe drive (both on neckboard).  Also perhaps turn down screen control (on flyback).  If that doesn't fix it, check green drive transistor and RGB amp.  If those are good, you may have a tube short (possibly work-around-able).

Well Mon Motha had the magical answer for this one!  Here's my latest update:

As many of you have seen in my prior posts, I brought home a Lucky and Wild game on November 5th- my theorized goal was, if it wasn't too far gone, to have it up and running by Thanksgiving weekend...

The flyback was blown on it, the 1 slo blow fuse in the cab was blown, and the connector to the boards was charred. I rebuilt the monitor on 11-21 with parts from Bob Roberts, and after doing a check with the rebuilt chassis, the video came back online.

The biggest mystery was that damn PCB connector. With the help of members from 3 websites, it was concluded that the connector was a "mate n lock" connector that was available via Mouser Electronics. It was also told to me that this type of connector was the industry standard for bill acceptor units. At the time that I was told that, I didn't give it much thought, although it was interesting info to know.

Yesterday I was planning to order my parts from Mouser, but in the AM I decided to install blinds in the garcade window, and while I was out there, I noticed an old bill acceptor lying in my parts bin. I knew I had one in the pile, but I did not remember its age or what connectors were on it- I went over and picked it up, and sure enough, looking me dead in the face was the connector type I'd been searching for! Better yet, this was the specific connector that would replace the worse of the 2 charred connectors on the LNW!! I scampered over to the Lucky and Wild game to match up the connectors, and the only diff was that the connector on the bill acceptor had 20 gauge wires going into it, where the one on the Lucky and Wild has 18 ga wire. I'm not planning on leaving this game on all the time, and on top of that, I simply needed to know at this point if the boards were even functional, or if they too had been damaged. So, I cut out the bad connector, and spliced in the one from the bill acceptor.

Since I had no idea what caused the death of this game in the first place, I put my finger on the power switch, and put my head down and closed my eyes    I flipped the power switch, and was amazed to hear speech coming from the LNW. I got my old butt up as fast as I could and fumbled around to the front of the game, and found the attract mode running beautifully in all of its 25" eye-candy goodness.. I screamed "YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!" My daughter came out to find out what I was doing, and it was great to hear her gasp a breath of surprise........ She said "Daddy you got it working!!!!!!!" Immediately followed by: "CAN I PLAY IT??!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

I ran through the test screen to flip it to set it to free play, and found out that the credit switch is what's supposed to allow you to navigate through the different test screens. Well, for some reason, someone never bothered to wire it up. So, just to appease my daughter (and myself), I backed out of the full test mode so we could try out the game, TOGETHER.

I have to say that for anyone who has never played this game, you have to find someone or someplace that has it and try it out. It is hilarious! I was trying to grasp at the time that I first learned about the game, the concept of a driver game where the driver also has to shoot a gun at the same time. It seemed to be a little bit much to me. But let me tell you what- it's exhausting and just insane fun at the same time. And to play at the same time with my daughter made it even more funny, because she kept saying over and over, "This game is just CRAZY!!!" In the meantime, she proceeded to play between 30 and 40 games of LNW up until her bedtime!! And this morning, when she got up, I'm sure you can imagine what the first thing was that she wanted to do.

The only remaining tweak is to get the 2nd player X-Y gun to work as well as the 1P gun.  When you move the gun quickly across the screen, it seems to lose its place.  After approximately a 2-second delay, the crosshairs appear on the screen again.  If anyone has any thoughts on that, please let me know!

[vintagegamer]

Some pics:

[vintagegamer]

Umm, kind of off topic, but you know how BYOAC rolls....

On the picture of the monitor that is really green washed-out, there's those zig-zag/spiraling green lines. My monitor gets these even with perfect color showing. Is there something that can be done to fix them easily? I've been wanting to make a thread in the monitor section about them, but they're too faint for me to get a nice picture of, unfortunately, just bright enough for them to show up when playing...

I wanted to circle back to this too- when I first got the game running, that green screen would still appear in between "action shots" on the game- ie, when it would fade from one sequence to the next, the interim screen would be that green with the lines screen.  I dialed down the "screen" button on the monitor chassis and it's now black (no more green with lines).  Hope this helps!

[RayB]

WOOOT!