Oscar: I've got a joust cab that was converted to be a double dribble... (shudder). How did you get the paint off? I want to try and avoid paint thinner. I've not been normal since I used it to clean up a cocktail glass overlay. You say you used Goof-off? Did you have to take off the side panels?
DarkKobold - You probably already saw this, but I explained how I did it here:
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=12786.
BTW - This must be the cab you picked up from Jim & Ed? They sold a Joust that was converted to a Double Dribble, and it would be an amazing coincidence if you are talking about a different one!
Wienerdog - I already knew I was a geek, but thanks for suggesting I have taken it to a higher level, as if I didn't already know that. Heh...
A little tech info I discovered while messing around with this project, just in case any of y'all are considering doing one of these...
I did the composite neg sync mod to the Joust boards (see
http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/techwilliams2jamma.html#video if you don't know what I mean) and had it connected to my GO7. I had recapped the GO7 and did the sync upgrade mod to it, too (
http://www.dameon.net/BBBB/mynotes.html#g07). One thing I noticed was that there was still a top curl on the screen with the mw kit even after the sync upgrade to the monitor. I could adjust it out, on say Joust, with the horizontal freq pot, but when I would exit and start up Defender, there would be a top curl going in the other direction. Finding a "sweet spot" with the hor freq seemed impossible. So I reversed the composite neg mod to the boards and connected it the "right" way with the H+ and V+ to the GO7. Now everything is beautiful! I don't think the GO7 really likes a composite neg sync, but it works sometimes on some games I guess. Anyway, I just wanted to let you guys know what I found in case you experience curl problems that seems to vary from game to game with the mw kit.
FWIW, I was talking to Clay about this, and he told me that he also has had similar problems with a GO7 and he fixed it by putting a resistor between the neg sync's instead of just twisting the wires together as typically done when converting older boards to a composite neg sync. Whatever floats your boat, I guess, but the picture is *much* better & stable using the positive sync's with the Williams boards and a GO7 from what I found tinkering around with it.
One more tech note - a stuck button input, P2 Start for example, will cause the mw kit not to boot. If you happen to have a closed switch when you power up the game, it appears as if the game boards are totally dead. Clay wasn't aware of this problem until I stumbled across it by accident. Clay's menu software polls the inputs to look for the service switch to clear the NVSRAM, and a stuck button will make it lock up. Figures I would be the one to find a way to "break" a mw kit...
Anyway, once I found out I had a stuck button and fixed it, I was back in business!
A few more pics of the completed cab, higher res than the previous ones:
http://www.oscarcontrols.com/sinistar/side2.jpghttp://www.oscarcontrols.com/sinistar/cp14.jpghttp://www.oscarcontrols.com/sinistar/front1.jpg