Recent Posts

Wow, it looks very nice indeed Ond. Love your work, thank you so much!

Oh, I'm definitely mulling! Mull mull mull mull... "The Mouli Mullamatic, it work liiiiiiiiike magic", old advertising jingle some mates came up with for a music school assignment, they'd sing it a capella all the time, ear worm still stuck in my head after 25+ years....

I think it needs "GreenAntz" text there - if stylised is too hard, then simple text would do.

I've been juggling ideas to extend the LEDs to those holes. In theory the legs could extend from the PCB, so that the LEDs actually reach those holes themselves.

Alternatively, some 3mm fibre optic. Glue one end into the hole (carefully, so it lies flat) using either clear epoxy or even just superglue (gotta be careful with that stuff). A little pre-shrunk heat-shrink tubing, slightly recessed, could help it sit properly and increase surface area for glue to hold. The other end can be have more heat shrink tubing, longer, that also extends over the head of the LED, pre-shrunk to fit. Slip it on and screw the shell halves together. Maybe another big blob of glue or silicon inside the shell to hold it there.

Feels a bit fussy and fragile though, at least where it would be glued to the shell. Obviously I will have to experiment.

If we do fibre-optic tubing then maybe the LEDs can be the GreenAntz' eyes? That would be pretty wild.

Oh, and shell colour doesn't have to be green despite the name lol.

I'm already getting some prototype shells printed, basic version of this design (no logo, wings, LED holes). Will share some pics here in a few days.

New GreenAntz 2.2 case design for Zebidee to mull over  Well it is green!

ATS

Having a bit of a problem getting a Commodore 1084S-D1 (NTSC) to display a picture correctly, and it looks as though it's probably a convergence issue.  That said, I'm not sure where to go with troubleshooting at this point; it also came to me for free in non-working condition, so I have no clue as to its history.  Here's what the picture looks like:



Note that the picture isn't really as blue as it appears in the photo - the RGB lines are distinct, but the background is actually a fairly bright shade of white.

Due to a couple of visibly-bad caps on the mainboard, I decided to go ahead and replace all of them in one fell swoop.  This was done using Console5's 1084S-D1 cap kit, which was installed without issue.  The work was also double-checked and checked again once this issue was evident; to the best of my knowledge, the caps and their placement and solder joins are good.  Same goes for other components on the mainboard (and neckboard, for that matter).

Adjusting the pincushion pot on the mainboard does not bring the picture back into line.  The convergence rings seem to be unable to get the RGB lines to, well, converge - they get close, but never overlap completely. The yoke is held in place by the usual wedges, which are glued to both the outside of the CRT and the coil.  There is absolutely zero movement possible in the yoke with its band clamp loosened.

The signal being fed to it is from a known-good Dreamcast over composite, and other monitors have no problems displaying it.  The composite switches are set correctly, and other inputs produce the same result.

It wasn't displaying a picture before replacing the caps, so this is at least a step in the right direction.  However, monitors aren't exactly my forté - I've done tube swaps, component repair, etc. but my experience with convergence is pretty minimal so am not sure if I'm overlooking something basic.  Any help would be appreciated!

I was having this exact same problem, text went incredibly small when Windows was in Portrait mode. UIsmall in the mame INI fixed it. Thanks

I guess I maybe should also explore some alternate frontends

Hi ! Thanks for your hard work on this one !

I actually work on your wheel2xinput for Outrun2006Tweaks by Emoose to try to improve the ffb effects.. I explain : this works amazingly well. But in Outrun FXT by Howard Casto, i figured how to optimize the spring effects on the game i i'll love refind this feeling with your stuff.

This is what i do : I try to set up the spring effect you add while the car drifting : in fact, when the car begins to drift we have the vibrations but the spring effect disappears and i will love have the spring effect while drifting (like in the arcade). Well, i spend maybe 5 days to try differents settings with the IL  but with no success  . Do you think you can take a look on your program pls ?

Best Regards

Julo.

This is fixed and adjustable in 1.6, which is in beta.

Hello everyone, I hope this is still active. Does anyone know how to configure the D-pad on DualSense? All the buttons work perfectly except the D-pad directions.

You should use the --trace command and it will tell you what the input mapping for the dpad is. What does --trace look like when you push the dpad buttons? Usually, dpad is listed as dpad instead of axis or button.

Do you ship to Australia?

yes, international orders require $2 additional postage.

Do you ship to Australia?

Awesome news!

I bought a 1983 mario bros cabinet today.  Its running on a 60 in 1. I want to turn the coin acceptor on and when I get it over to the settings its prompting me to hit s2 button when the cabinet does not have, I tried the service button also to no avail, anyone know any other way for me to get into the next page of the settings?