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Looks great, Ond. 

Instead of the current straight-sided LED cylinders, you may want to consider using tapered cylinders.

One way is to slightly increase the outside hole diameter so there is a (5-15 degree?) larger viewing angle -- no light pipes needed.

Otherwise, you can add a thin, 6-8 mm tall vertical slit across the bottom of the LED cylinder walls (red lines) and use a very slight taper on the bottom 1/4 or so of the cylinder.
- The slit will allow the bottom of the cylinder walls to flex a bit for better friction while making the tolerances less critical.
- This makes it easier to insert the light pipe into the top then press it down for a flush friction fit.
- For more flexibility, you could add a second slit so the bottom is divided in quarters instead of halves.


Scott

The minor re-build of this cabinet is underway. All being well I should have a few regular updates over the coming days. In re-wiring the buttons and devices I'm also updating or improving the control set while the opportunity is there.

-New plunger button
-Added magna save buttons
-Added real Tilt bob
-Re-work of backbox
-New PS for amplifier (more powerful)

Update pics in no particular order:

I found this awesome red button. It has a really nice action, still light, but more tactile than the arcade button I was using. I gutted and modified a clear Seimitsu button to adapt the Big Red Button. I designed and 3D printed a tight fitting clear collar with an outside diam. to fit the Seimitsu collar. I don't have room in this cab for a realistic plunger but this is a nice compromise. I think VPINS are fine with just a plunger button, I'm kind of used to it now anyway. The clear sleeve and button were glued into the Seimitsu collar with clear Araldite. The nice feature is that the assembly can be removed just like any arcade button and can be LED lit as well.

I resisted adding magna save buttons originally but there are a few tables that use them including of course Black Knight. Bah, making holes in the cab after expensive artwork is in place  I don't recommend it!

I'm redesigning the back-box right now, next up some pics of that process.

nice case design, Ond!

Zeb, i like to use round perspex rod for light pipes on my designs. Hole tolerances on the print can sometimes be tricky, but once you dial it in you just cut a short length of rod, file it flat on the top end, and press-fit into the hole.

You're welcome  Note, the case has been designed from scratch although I did use your supplied model as a reference.

More pics including added text.  You can see how the moldings work including the tubes to LEDs.

...and in my preferred color

I don't recommend any tubing/optical fiber etc.  The LEDS will be plainly visible when viewed from above which means less work for you. In testing I've found that white optic tubing does not work very well anyway.  I'd keep the text under the logo plain. Stylized font will look too much IMO.

Bad horizontal coil in the deflection yoke. It's two coils in parallel and one went open. Typically caused by corrosion. If the damage affects several turns it may be a real ballache to fix. In any case you need to remove the yoke as the horizontal coils are the ones underneath that you can't see if the yoke is on the tube. And if you manage to fix it you'll have to reconverge everything (yoke and rings).

I can second the Gimp free program. You can add as many layers as you'd like making each layer a button, trackball, etc. You would have to create the correct dimension of each item. But it's what I used and worked great!

Wow, it looks very nice indeed Ond. Love your work, thank you so much!

Oh, I'm definitely mulling! Mull mull mull mull... "The Mouli Mullamatic, it work liiiiiiiiike magic", old advertising jingle some mates came up with for a music school assignment, they'd sing it a capella all the time, ear worm still stuck in my head after 25+ years....

I think it needs "GreenAntz" text there - if stylised is too hard, then simple text would do.

I've been juggling ideas to extend the LEDs to those holes. In theory the legs could extend from the PCB, so that the LEDs actually reach those holes themselves.

Alternatively, some 3mm fibre optic. Glue one end into the hole (carefully, so it lies flat) using either clear epoxy or even just superglue (gotta be careful with that stuff). A little pre-shrunk heat-shrink tubing, slightly recessed, could help it sit properly and increase surface area for glue to hold. The other end can be have more heat shrink tubing, longer, that also extends over the head of the LED, pre-shrunk to fit. Slip it on and screw the shell halves together. Maybe another big blob of glue or silicon inside the shell to hold it there.

Feels a bit fussy and fragile though, at least where it would be glued to the shell. Obviously I will have to experiment.

If we do fibre-optic tubing then maybe the LEDs can be the GreenAntz' eyes? That would be pretty wild.

Oh, and shell colour doesn't have to be green despite the name lol.

I'm already getting some prototype shells printed, basic version of this design (no logo, wings, LED holes). Will share some pics here in a few days.

New GreenAntz 2.2 case design for Zebidee to mull over  Well it is green!

ATS

Having a bit of a problem getting a Commodore 1084S-D1 (NTSC) to display a picture correctly, and it looks as though it's probably a convergence issue.  That said, I'm not sure where to go with troubleshooting at this point; it also came to me for free in non-working condition, so I have no clue as to its history.  Here's what the picture looks like:



Note that the picture isn't really as blue as it appears in the photo - the RGB lines are distinct, but the background is actually a fairly bright shade of white.

Due to a couple of visibly-bad caps on the mainboard, I decided to go ahead and replace all of them in one fell swoop.  This was done using Console5's 1084S-D1 cap kit, which was installed without issue.  The work was also double-checked and checked again once this issue was evident; to the best of my knowledge, the caps and their placement and solder joins are good.  Same goes for other components on the mainboard (and neckboard, for that matter).

Adjusting the pincushion pot on the mainboard does not bring the picture back into line.  The convergence rings seem to be unable to get the RGB lines to, well, converge - they get close, but never overlap completely. The yoke is held in place by the usual wedges, which are glued to both the outside of the CRT and the coil.  There is absolutely zero movement possible in the yoke with its band clamp loosened.

The signal being fed to it is from a known-good Dreamcast over composite, and other monitors have no problems displaying it.  The composite switches are set correctly, and other inputs produce the same result.

It wasn't displaying a picture before replacing the caps, so this is at least a step in the right direction.  However, monitors aren't exactly my forté - I've done tube swaps, component repair, etc. but my experience with convergence is pretty minimal so am not sure if I'm overlooking something basic.  Any help would be appreciated!