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Older TVs dealt with it by using Y-delay "black box" solutions which, afaik, are cascaded multistage RLC (resistor-inductor-capacitor) filters based on a T or Pi topology. It doesn't affect the H-sync if done after signal separation, but before feeding it back into the demodulation matrix with chroma.

Makes my head spin. Would be nice to come up with a simple, low-cost solution. Obviously the China TV designers decided it didn't matter enough to worry about it.

Does anyone remember these button? Is there anywhere to get a hold on a few of them?

To be honest, those were some of the worst buttons ever conceived.  I put them on my first cabinet close to 3 decades ago, didn't like them then either, even as a neophyte with microswitch based buttons.

Be kind to yourself and upgrade.  If it's click you are after, there are many kinds of switches out there, with whatever amount of force and/or click you would be after.  The difference would be in smoothness of actuation and lack of wear on the actuator. Microswitches don't fail often and swapping them is trivial where the button is concerned, even if they do.

RE: HAPP

I guess that explains why they stopped answering my emails a few months ago.  But to be honest, I'm not surprised.  They fell victim to the same problem as many a company.  To cut costs, most of their arcade parts manufacturing moved to China.  Eventually, they started selling clones directly.  And you can't really blame HAPP for doing so, because it would have happened anyway.  I'm sure the downturn in expendable income didn't help either.  Such is the world now it seems.  The problem for the consumer is that when the original producer goes away, so does a lot of the less popular parts that people might still want/need...like the pushbuttons being sought by the OP.

Unfortunately, that's one of the real side effects from consumers chasing only low-cost.  The options become more limited.

Hi,

I am trying to set up a coctail cab using Batocera.  Primarily going to use MAME on it but would also like to set up some C64 games as well.

I have an IPAC in there which from the looks of it is a legacy ps/2 version (see attached picture).

I can set up the controls to work in the front end menu and also to work in MAME but I am having problems getting the emulator to exit back to the front end.  I can use alt + F4 on an attached keyboard but it will not work from the ipac connected control panel using select + start.

IS it possible on the version of the ipac I have to configure it so that one of the buttons outputs F4 so I can then use a button combination on the control panel to exit?

Alternatively, does anyone know why the start + select is not working and what i can do to overcome the issue?

Thanks 

Ok then..

From the command line, for GroovyMAME specifically:-

Code: [Select]

mame sf2 -keyboardprovider dinput
and

Code: [Select]

mame sf2 -keyboardprovider win32
both worked.

Code: [Select]

mame sf2
did not, keyboard not detected.

Using mainline MAME  0.289 I did not need to add/specify -keyboardprovider at all, or change anything in ini, it just worked.

I changed my mame.ini in my GroovyMAME folder to have "keyboardprovider dinput" set (instead of Auto) and things are now all working so clearly changing that setting from the menu within MAME doesn't seem to work or persist for me not sure why.

Happy now I can use the light up keyboard for those late night nostalgia sessions, thanks for the assist.

I see what you mean now using component, it's so minor to me though it's not even an issue. My only problem with the NTSC decoding is the chroma offset. I thought about the possiibiity of adding a delay line to luma as well, but that would negatively affect alignment of h-sync.

Could you confirm -keyboardprovider dinput and -keyboardprovider win32 don't work either?

Yeah they didn't work either, unless that setting doesn't apply until you quit and re-enter?

Of course, try it from command line always:

Code: [Select]

mame sf2 -keyboardprovider dinput

Could you confirm -keyboardprovider dinput and -keyboardprovider win32 don't work either?

Yeah they didn't work either, unless that setting doesn't apply until you quit and re-enter?

Also, does your keyboard work with current baseline MAME?

I'll try tonight, it worked with an older build I'm sure of that.

Hi flybynight,

Like anything else, the params can be passed either through the ini or from command line, up to you.

The R9 380X should have no lag issues with d3d11.

You said you tried to change the keyboard provider. Could you confirm -keyboardprovider dinput and -keyboardprovider win32 don't work either? Also, does your keyboard work with current baseline MAME?

How does this compare with older transcoders? I'm currently using a Crescendo Systems TC1600 i got in 2014 and it has served me extremely well.

Hi, thanks for your interest and question.

The TC1600 seems pretty decent, for what it is and when you got it. I don't have one, but read the user manual. How much did it cost?

GreenAntz offers many extra features. Here are a few things to think about, off the top of my head:

1. GreenAntz provides best-quality performance of expensive transcoders for a much more reasonable price.

2. GreenAntz will preserve your original video modes like 240p; it will not crunch or squish your video into a single mode like 640x480i.

3. GreenAntz includes a video filter to pass 15.7khz only (+/- approximately 1khz, optional). This will actively block other video signals, such as 25khz (EGA) or 31khz (VGA) etc. This will protect your sensitive (and irreplaceable) CRT equipment from damage due to high frequencies (a situation the TC1600 user manual specifically warns about).

4. GreenAntz is specifically designed for retrogamers and 15khz use only, up to 480i/576i. It will pass HD 480p/720p video (if the 15k filter is turned off), but the colour conversion will not be correct for HD.

5. GreenAntz will work with any valid sync input combination, including all possible combinations of sync polarity, composite sync, and even composite sync with dirty vertical sync (CRT_Emulator). No other transcoder anywhere provides this "complete" level of flexibility. This makes it much easier to use for different setups like Nvidia cards, Batocera or Groovyarcade, CRU etc.

6. Sync signal is injected into Y (luma, green) at the right place, at the right levels. Many other transcoders just jam it in with no consideration to levels or where it sits in the signal, making it more difficult for your TV to interpret properly.

7. GreenAntz colours are brighter, fully saturated and more "consistent" than most transcoders. No more "filckery", "patchy" or "thin" colours. This is due to multiple iterative and converging quality improvement factors, including superior voltage regulation, efficient design, smarter video signal filtering and amplification.

8. GreenAntz comes pre-optimised, but includes three pots (Y, Pb, Pr) that allow you to tweak the video signal mix to your own complete satisfaction.

9. Just plug GreenAntz in and it works. No software setup or configuration needed.

10. GreenAntz is 100% analog and adds zero lag.

11. GreenAntz includes a 9.5mhz Butterworth low-pass filter (6th order, optional) to further clean up the video signal.

12. GreenAntz is designed to work with arcade cabs and original arcade game PCBs. The board comes with mounting points for PCB offset legs, making it easy to screw into your cab.

13. GreenAntz  includes 5v and GND landing points for alternate power inputs, for example from an arcade DC PSU. You can install screw terminals.

14. GreenAntz includes status LEDs for power (green) and sync validity (blue). The blue LED (and video output) will not come on unless a valid (~15.7khz) signal is received. Very useful for troubleshooting. Filter can be bypassed.

15. GreenAntz' new and stylish enclosure/case includes mounting points and LED windows to see the status LEDS.

16. GreenAntz is new, still being actively developed after six years in response to retrogamer needs, and support is still available by contacting me or through this channel.

That should cover it for now. Just thinking that I should probably put this list at the beginning of the thread