The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: ChadTower on March 19, 2007, 01:14:43 pm
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Just picked up a Bally Fathom... one of the primary plastics is cracked in half pretty badly. I'm thinking up ways to repro this complex shape. Router, anyone?
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Man, you're just on a pinball-buying tear, aren't you? :)
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No, only bought the one, if you're talking about my thread in Arcade Misc. Same pin.
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Ah yes... duh. :dizzy:
I think I remember you talking about wanting to go with a fixed router in another post. Is that still your plan? I think I've "researched" myself into a plunge.
Chris
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Haven't decided yet, I was looking for a specific reason to buy one first. As it is this is a stretch. I'm talking about buying an expensive power tool to make a thin plastic part.
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Haven't decided yet, I was looking for a specific reason to buy one first. As it is this is a stretch. I'm talking about buying an expensive power tool to make a thin plastic part.
A router is always a good tool to have around. Especially the kits that include a 2 or 2.25HP motor with both fixed and plunge bases. That said, in your particular case it might be cheaper to get someone to make the part for you. In this area, Tap Plastics would be the place I'd contact.
BTW, depending on the type of plastic and the thickness, you might see if you could use a jigsaw to make the part (assuming you own a jigsaw). Might require some sanding and polishing of the cut edge to get it to look good, but that's pretty easy to handle.
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I do have a jigsaw and have thought of that... pinball plastics are soft and I'm not sure that a jigsaw would work with the material. It's possible I could sandwich it between two thin hardwoods and try it that way, I suppose. That would require a blade with the most teeth I could possibly find, yes?
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I do have a jigsaw and have thought of that... pinball plastics are soft and I'm not sure that a jigsaw would work with the material. It's possible I could sandwich it between two thin hardwoods and try it that way, I suppose. That would require a blade with the most teeth I could possibly find, yes?
That's sort of what I was thinking: put the plastic on top of a piece of wood, or sandwich it between two pieces of wood. In terms of blades, I think you'd just have to try a couple. Tap Plastics sells table saw blades for plastics and they seem to have a large number of teeth. On the other hand, when I was building my deck out of Trex, which is basically just recycled soda bottles and sawdust, they suggested using a low number of teeth; blades with lots of heat would tend to overheat and gum up.
I'd get two or three different blades and try them on some scrap plastic. If the plastic starts to melt or the blade gets gunked up, switch to one with fewer teeth per inch. If the blade is fine but the cut is ragged, switch to a blade with more teeth per inch.
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Go for it and get a router. ;) You won't regret it unless you mangle a couple of fingers. :dizzy:
I also would suggest getting a combo kit with a plunge and fixed base. Here's one (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-2223005-5317408?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1174335394&sr=8-1), and here's my favorite. (http://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DW618PK-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-2223005-5317408?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1174335500&sr=1-1) I have both kits and like the dewalt kit much better. It's a better machine and kit in most respects. And while you're at it, might as well get this (http://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-Router-UpdatedProfessional-Techniques-Woodworker/dp/0762108002/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b/103-2223005-5317408?ie=UTF8&qid=1174335500&sr=1-1) too.
Once you get a router you'll wonder how you ever managed without one. :cheers:
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Pricey... I'll have to wait until they come down enough to justify or else just get a lower end model. I'm not a heavy woodworker.
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Not too long ago the dewalt kit hit $149.99. That's cheaper than the fixed base alone. But yeah, wait for a sale. Don't cut yourself short by getting a sub par router. It'll only disappoint you in the end. Save the pennies for a good tool, even if you don't use it that often (c'mon now, it's a router. Once you use it you won't be able to put it down ;D). It'll just last that much longer.
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Your enchanting is evil.
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I second that. This Nitewalker guy's got me into 2 tools for almost $400. It's going to be like a McDonald's employee cutting a Filet o' Fish with a sushi knife. :dizzy:
Chris
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Both of you will thank me in the end. >:D :cheers:
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Maybe... but it may be my wife's foot that thanks you in the end if I buy half the stuff I'm nearly buying... :)
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I'm married too. And I've felt the wrath of the foot many times... :dizzy:
Here, use this: "But honey, by getting this now while it's on sale I actually saved us money." May or may not work, and if it does it likely won't work twice. ;)
Another quick trick is to build her a small jewlery box. She'll love you for it. If all else fails bring up her shoe collection. :cheers:
Oh yes, there's ways around this.
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My wife has a nice jewelry box... she isn't into jewelry, though, and got mad at me the one time I spent any real cash on earrings for her.
I do tend to wait until I have a specific use for a tool, most of the time, and that is what saves me from the wrath. Especially if it's a honeydo task.
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Both of you will thank me in the end. >:D :cheers:
I'm already thanking you - the help and encouragement is appreciated. :cheers:
I just tried to use this Amazon gift certificate I had to buy the jigsaw and they say it has "already been applied to another order". I asked by whom and they said they couldn't tell me but that it wasn't my account. So it's obviously fraud but they're saying I'm out of luck. WTF!!! Grrrr..... :angry:
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I would call back and try to speak to a supervisor. they're usually really good about taking care of their customers. There's been a few times that I had to call in because of a promo mix up. Every time was handled in my favor.
Glad I can help. :cheers:
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Buy it!
Tell her it's to fix the bushes.
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Heh. She's smarter than that. She'd expect to see me using it on the bushes.
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Heh. She's smarter than that. She'd expect to see me using it on the bushes.
Shouldn't be a problem... per Nitewalker's profile, "Routers can do anything."
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Maybe I can get a ditch digging bit and route the damaged plants out of the ground.
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Heh. She's smarter than that. She'd expect to see me using it on the bushes.
:laugh2:
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Maybe I can get a ditch digging bit and route the damaged plants out of the ground.
You need the router to make some decorative wood slats that support the bushes as well as look nice.
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I have it!
I've been thinking of building a few bartops for varying purposes... well, the way to do that is to make a template kit and route them out, yes? :)
Plus there is a big pile of old weathered scrap wood in my yard from small demolitions. I could practice on it all weekend.
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Awesome. :cheers:
What router did you get?
What kind of bar top are you trying to build?
Be careful with the scraps, make sure there's no hidden nails or screws. Nothing makes the mudhole pucker up quicker than carbide hitting metal... :censored:
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I mean I have the reason... still need to wait on the right deal for the tool.
I have a thread in the projects section discussing the design of a horror FPS bartop and following that will be at least one Dreamcast bartop. If I become proficient at making them I may knock out a couple a year and see what the local market brings for them.
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oh...
See! Got me all excited! :angry:
:laugh2: :laugh2:
The horror bartop sounds cool. I'll check that thread out. A dc bartop sounds cool too.
Yeah a router will help you out big time for shaping the top and even the other pieces if needed.
Can't wait to see these ideas come to fruition. :cheers:
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Better yet, here's a good start for a deal on a router. (http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=SuperFeatures2/Power_Tools/PM_Ultimate_Power_Deal&cm_ven=hd_goog&cm_cat=Search&cm_pla=D-25X&cm_ite=bid10163233-combo_pack) I might go to HD to check it out myself.
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This guy (http://www.thekingofpayne.com/reproplastics.htm) has a whole page devoted to the topic of reproducing your own plastics. I hope the plastics in question are flat, like slingshot plastics.
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Yeah, these are standard playfield plastics. One is pretty big and a complex shape. I hadn't thought of a rotary tool router attachment... I do have a Black
and Decker rotary tool.
Thanks for the link, I think I read through that a couple of years ago but didn't remember it.
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This (http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/291767993.html) isn't too far from me, probably 45 minutes drive... maybe I could talk him down from $150. I can't tell from the pics, is that plunge or fixed base?
Also this (http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/302248262.html) one... not as good a router but $100 and has a table.
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This (http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/291767993.html) isn't too far from me, probably 45 minutes drive... maybe I could talk him down from $150. I can't tell from the pics, is that plunge or fixed base?
From what it looks like in pic1, it has a fixed D-handle base and a plunge base as well. It's a 3 piece set he says, so I am assuming he is referring to the two bases and the motor.
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Looking backwards on CL I see that he has been posting it 4 or more times already. Maybe I can talk him down to $125. Do you see any obvious flaws or missing pieces?
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That second pic is of the plunge base #6931, so it definitely has both bases. I would call/email him and find out what model of router he has as that base can be used for multiple models. Looks pretty good, but if he has posted it 4 times with no luck, then make sure he lowers the price for you. He says it's hardly used, but make sure it isn't rusty or anything like that as well.
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Already emailed to get the model #... :) We'll see what he says, maybe I'll get lucky and it's the 800 series.
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Already emailed to get the model #... :) We'll see what he says, maybe I'll get lucky and it's the 800 series.
Don't think that base will work an 800. It's supposed to be for 630, 670, 690, 691 models
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It also seems to come with the other 69x series... the 693 and 694 3 part kits both have it.
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Here's the scoop. The first router you linked to is a Porter Cable 693LRPK with the d-handle base as well. Very good price at $150, even better if you can swing him to $130 or $140. The motor is a 690. Those things were built to last. There are 20 year old originals around still running as good as they day they were made. I have 2 of those routers and would happily own 20.
The second router kit you linked to is a ryobi. I used to have the same router. The depth adjustment ring froze up on me. No amount of wd-40 or any type of lube would get it moving again. It was a decent router for the 3 years I had it though. Not worth $100 though. I'd say $75 tops because the router only takes 1/4" shank bits.
If you happen to get the porter cable kit you can throw the fixed base in a shop built router table (if you can build a box you can build a router table) and use the plunge and d-handle bases for out of the table work. The fixed base can be left attached to the table. Just change the motor to whatever base you need.
Hope this helps out.
:cheers:
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That post is perfect. How did you identify the Porter so specifically? I can't see the model # even when the image is enlarged... do you really know each model that well from sight?
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I'm familiar with a lot of routers. That particular kit is very popular because of its durability. The plunge base is crude but works well. No gimmicks with that tool, just all day workability. If that sale was near me I'd grab it even though I already own a few routers. ok I own 7...
For that model there's only 2 different motors; one with variable speed and one without. I actually prefer single speed in a 690 as variable speed isn't really necessary in that power class (11 amp 1 3/4 HP).
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Cool. I really appreciate the advice, I'm waiting on a response from the seller. If I can get him to like $135 I'll probably drive over Sunday to get it.
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So what's up? Are you the proud owner of a Porter Cable router now?
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No response from the seller. I guess he has either already sold it or he's not trying very hard.
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That post is perfect. How did you identify the Porter so specifically? I can't see the model # even when the image is enlarged... do you really know each model that well from sight?
Porter Cable doesn't have very many kits (nor do most, really), and those kits were somewhat specific to certain models. The difference in the lettering for the model # is what came in the kits. That Craigslist link shows the newer version of that Porter Cable kit (they redesigned the case from side-by-side to the upper-lower look you see there).
MAKE SURE that the D-handle is included. The 3-piece kit from PC usually refers to the plunge base, the "mushroom ears" handle fixed base, and the motor. That D-handle is a separate-purchase accessory unless that's a REALLY old Porter Cable kit (which it doesn't look like).
Porter Cable offered the 3-BASE kit (notice the difference in how it's worded) quite a while ago, and dropped it for the 2-base (3 PIECE) kit for cost reasons, I'm guessing. They also still sell the D-handle accessory. From all the pics on that Craigslist link, the D-handle looks to be a SEPARATE piece, but he seems to be wanting to sell the whole shebang.
That kit, with just the blow-molded case contents, sold for ~$200, and that D-handle attachment is a $40-60 ADDED accessory purchase on top of that. Those are normal prices you could have found that for from Home Depot, so he's lopping off about $100. The only reason I can think of that someone hasn't jumped on that thus far is that he's not throwing in the D-handle, or they're expecting to talk him down to $100 or less (or whatever the ridiculous offers are given to him).
$125 isn't an unreasonable offer to shoot out there, but going lower IMO will simply get you no response. $150 is a price for that thing that I'd be jumping all over - go donate some platelets for a few bucks or something, but snatch that up!
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I didn't even make an offer - I just asked for the model # and said I was very interested. I got a response to my third email saying it was sold.
If you look in the Price watch thread, though, the Fatwallet link shows how to get the 893 with both bases at Lowe's for just over $200 out the door with two $50 rebates. So I may pick that up tomorrow and start saying "erm, yeah, about those bookcases..." ;D
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I've been pondering that 893 myself. FWIW, there are a few reviews on Amazon that are making me a little hesitant. More than once, the action on the plunge base is knocked, including by a veteran P-C product user who recommended the older 690-series. Every product has a few nay-sayers, but often it's just because they got a faulty item or are griping about Amazon. Anyway - I guess my point is, it's tough to know which one to buy without trying it. I'm getting more and more tempted to take the (repeated) first-hand recommendation of our resident expert, NiteWalker, and go with the DeWalt. Curious how you're arriving at your decision...
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The 800 series of that PC evidently started skimping on materials used in certain areas. IIRC, that's the cause for many of the complaints about the plunge action. I can't recall if it's a different metal used, or they switched to a plastic part, or what, but what you're referring to is one of the common complaints. Still and all, I wouldn't hesitate to go with a PC router.
Hey, can anyone comment on a Hitachi M12V (I think that's the model number)? I think it was a 2 1/2 horse model? I'm kinda half-ass scoping out craigslist for an old PC for cheap, but that Hitachi (I can't recall for certain if that was the model, but I know it was compared to a 3hp with the price of a lower-hp model and I was considering looking at it for some semi-shaper-like duty for some molding runs on the router table.
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If it is the hitachi M12V that is their older model it works great. Very good machine. It used to sell for about $140-$160. It is a 3 1/4 HP machine at a lower HP price. It's a perfect router table router.
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If it is the hitachi M12V that is their older model it works great. Very good machine. It used to sell for about $140-$160. It is a 3 1/4 HP machine at a lower HP price. It's a perfect router table router.
That sounds like what I'm talkin' about. Is that thing sold anymore, or did they "update" it and wreck it?
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It isn't sold new anymore but it'll probably pop up used every now and then. Whoever designed the replacement (http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-M12V2-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B000GKC28W/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-2223005-5317408?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1175646650&sr=8-1) also apparently works as a sneaker designer. :laugh2:
The new one works just as well as the old one but is a bit more expensive.
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Whoever designed the replacement (http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-M12V2-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B000GKC28W/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-2223005-5317408?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1175646650&sr=8-1) also apparently works as a sneaker designer. :laugh2:
Ugh! You're right - maybe it's a Transformer... changes into a spring-loaded hi-top or something.
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The 800 series of that PC evidently started skimping on materials used in certain areas. IIRC, that's the cause for many of the complaints about the plunge action. I can't recall if it's a different metal used, or they switched to a plastic part, or what, but what you're referring to is one of the common complaints. Still and all, I wouldn't hesitate to go with a PC router.
Thanks for the info.
[BTW - I know that you (and many others) are woodworking pros too. I'm sure you didn't take my compliment to Nitewalker the wrong way.]
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I'm getting more and more tempted to take the (repeated) first-hand recommendation of our resident expert, NiteWalker, and go with the DeWalt. Curious how you're arriving at your decision...
For the record, I own the Dewalt 618 (http://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DW618B3-Horsepower-D-Handle-Variable/dp/B0000CCXU3/) as well. I believe NiteWalker has the same one, albiet the 2-base version. Its and excellent router and you won't be disappointed in the least bit.
As long as you're patient, you can occasionally pick it up at Amazon for <$200.
As for the Porter Cable that I posted from Lowe's, I have no input on it whatsoever. I've never even looked at one. I just saw it was a pretty good deal so threw it up there in case anybody was looking.
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[BTW - I know that you (and many others) are woodworking pros too. I'm sure you didn't take my compliment to Nitewalker the wrong way.]
Nah. Some folks prefer how someone puts things, or "feel" more comfortable. No biggie :cheers:
It isn't sold new anymore but it'll probably pop up used every now and then. Whoever designed the replacement (http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-M12V2-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B000GKC28W/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-2223005-5317408?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1175646650&sr=8-1) also apparently works as a sneaker designer. :laugh2:
The new one works just as well as the old one but is a bit more expensive.
That looks like ass exploded all over the drafting table when they were designing it and nobody bothered to clean it off :angry:
You ain't kidding about the sneaker look....I know it doesn't (or shouldn't) make a difference in the performance, but JEEZ, did they have to make it look SO friggen different (and by different, I mean weird)?
Mebbe I can snag some old geezer's Speedmatic cast iron rock solid monster....or just buy a stupid shaper ::)
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I have one of those speedmatics. Love it. Another worthy contender is the Milwaukee 5625. It's another beast. Both can be caught on sale if you wait and check often. I scored my 7518 (big PC router) for $236. The Milwaukee I mentioned was $190 a few months ago.
A shaper is a different machine than a router table. Similar but different. Already have a router table or thinking about building one? Let me know. I have a lot of plans you could look at.
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I've got the wife on notice that if we don't find the bookshelves by next weekend, it goes on my project list, and there will be accompanying tool purchases.
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That's the way to do it! :cheers:
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I have one of those speedmatics. Love it. Another worthy contender is the Milwaukee 5625. It's another beast. Both can be caught on sale if you wait and check often. I scored my 7518 (big PC router) for $236. The Milwaukee I mentioned was $190 a few months ago.
A shaper is a different machine than a router table. Similar but different. Already have a router table or thinking about building one? Let me know. I have a lot of plans you could look at.
Yeah, I've got the differences down, but for nice basic moldings I can get away with my router and table setup for now, it's just way quicker to do and seemed a whole heck of a lot easier to set up on the one I used. It's not something I need, and can wait and let a few side jobs pay for it - it just all depends on what I stumble across.
I like Milwaukee for drills and saws, but I'm a little less impressed with their other stuff (but not enough that I'd pass up a good deal on something).
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That's the way to do it! :cheers:
The logic is that she gave me this long list of tasks to complete and yet we spend half of sunday every weekend now driving to furniture stores. Can't do both at once.
:laugh2:
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I went to pick up the router tonight and forgot my 10% off coupon... oh well, I'll get it tomorrow. :)
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Just picked up the 893PK from Lowe's... 10% coupon + 15% off. Now to submit the rebates.
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What do you think so far? It's too tall for my personal preference.
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I think it fits nicely in the trunk of my car? I haven't even opened it yet, I bought it on my lunch break. I probably won't get to try it out for a few days but some of the sale conditions are almost over.
$198.14 out the door (+ 8% RI tax) before the two $50 rebates. :cheers:
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Chad, congrats and enjoy! :cheers:
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Thanks. FWIW, the register printed rebate receipt does not indicate directly that the discount for either 15% or 10% was taken. It does show the end purchase price after the discounts were applied, though. I'm guessing the only way the Lowe's employee processing this would know was if they recognized that the item is usually well over $198 and looked into it.
EDIT:
So, Nitewalker, being our resident router expert... what's the best way to go about learning the best ways to use a router? Seems like quite a few of us are about to learn.
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So, Nitewalker, being our resident router expert... what's the best way to go about learning the best ways to use a router? Seems like quite a few of us are about to learn.
I have a feeling I know one of the recommendations Nitewalker will have for folks with a new router... Read Woodworking with the Router (http://www.amazon.com/Woodworking-Router-UpdatedProfessional-Techniques-Woodworker/dp/0762108002/) by Bill Hylton. Its a wonderful book.
(http://www.woodcentral.com/books/images/hylton_routernew.jpg)
His other book, Router Magic (http://www.amazon.com/Router-magic-Bill-Hylton/dp/0762101857), is also pretty well thought of.
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Half.com shows that an older printing, from 1993, can be had for about a third of that price... I wonder how much difference there is in editions.
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Half.com shows that an older printing, from 1993, can be had for about a third of that price... I wonder how much difference there is in editions.
According to the intro in the book, he completely re-did it. And maybe added a bunch of color pictures. Let me go find it and see what it says exactly.
EDIT: He says he revised a good amount of the text, all of the pictures and drawings (changed to color), and replaced many of the jigs from the old book.
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Good enough reason to pick up the newer one. Thanks.
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what's the best way to go about learning the best ways to use a router? Seems like quite a few of us are about to learn.
I've snagged a copy of the NYW Routing 101 part 1 and part 2 episodes. They seem pretty good to follow along with. I've heard great things about that book and will probably order it myself as well.
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I need to stop dropping so much cash on stuff for the time being. I'm going to see if my library system has it.
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So, Nitewalker, being our resident router expert... what's the best way to go about learning the best ways to use a router? Seems like quite a few of us are about to learn.
Rusty nailed it.
Woodoworking with the Router is the single most useful book I own (out of 40+). I bought the old version a while back and this past july when the new one came out. Nite and day difference. The new book is hardcover (the one I bought at least), completely in color, much bigger, deals with current router and router accessories, etc. It's great. It's been rewritten completely.
His other book mentioned, Router Magic, is also a great resource for jigs and fixtures for taking care of a lot of problems. I love both but wish he would rework Router Magic too.
The Router 101 episodes on NYW are good but not worth $40. Grab em from isohunt. I love Norm and NYW, but his plans and videos are way too much. Also no downloadable plans like from plansnow. So you have to pay shipping on top of the already high prices.
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Understood. I'm going to order that book once the funds are available.
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The Router 101 episodes on NYW are good but not worth $40. Grab em from isohunt. I love Norm and NYW, but his plans and videos are way too much. Also no downloadable plans like from plansnow. So you have to pay shipping on top of the already high prices.
I never would've thought to check isohunt for woodworking stuff. Thanks!
:cheers:
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Chad, pick up some scraps from the cutoff bin at Home Depot. Look for the panel saw in the lumber section and you'll see some odd-sized pieces with red, yellow, blue or black spray paint on 'em. Pick up a few pieces to practice on.
Pick up enough 2x4's to make a box. That way you can practice the right way to feed your router into the stock on inside and outside edges. You'll notice how the router kinda keeps itself "stuck" to the wood when you go in the proper direction (well, at least if you're using a bit with a bearing).
Also, keep any scrap you cut off so you can practice the setup before mangling your project.
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I picked up the Porter Cable 893PK from Lowes last night too (grabbed the last one from the third store I tried). I already have a set of bits from the Holbren deal posted a while back, so my wife knew this purchase was coming.
$259 - 15% - 10% + 8.25% tax - the two $50 rebates = a great deal.
Set the fixed base in a Skil router table I picked up at the same time, but haven't played with it yet. Never used a router before, so I think I'm going to grab that book y'all recommended. Thanks so much to all you guys who give such great advice to us newbies!!! :applaud:
The best price I've found on that book is at Hartville Tools (http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12407) - it's on sale for $12.97, but shipping of $5.95 knocks it up to the amazon price. Anyone know of any coupons for Hartville?
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Cool. I have a bunch of random pieces of stock in the shed usually, 2x4s of various lengths, a couple sheets of 1/2" ply and scraps, etc. When I have a project I tend to buy more materials than I need figuring I'll screw up at least once. As time goes on I'm screwing up less and less so the extra is piling up.
I do have good adjustable sawhorses (I used to use them as a bench press spotter) and I also tend to use our picnic table as a cutting bench.
welshmark, I have that same set of bits. Soon, time to party with them. :cheers:
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I tried to sneak outside over the weekend and get the router going. Between the holiday, and a birthday in the house, it didn't happen.
I hate when I have stuff to do and there are visitors in the living room watching TV. It's "rude to not visit" but there are few if any words exchanged. What's the point? Watching reruns is not quality time.
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I had the opposite problem yesterday... there was all sorts of "quality time" going on - but I just wanted to watch the final round of the Masters! :angry: ;D
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If it is the hitachi M12V that is their older model it works great. Very good machine. It used to sell for about $140-$160. It is a 3 1/4 HP machine at a lower HP price. It's a perfect router table router.
Nitewalker, I purchased the m12v a couple years ago and I could never find a router table for this setup. Do you have any recommendations?
I've never used this router, for this sole reason.
I appreciate it.
Kenzo
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By not finding a router table for the M12V you mean you couldn't find a plate that accepts the router? They're easy to make out of 3/8" acrylic or a similar material. Me personally, I would mount the router directly to the bottom of whatever table you're using.
Now about a router table I think that's one project every craftsman should build rather than overspend on one. They're very simple. If you can build a box you can build a router table. They can also be complex, but that's totally up to the builder.
What exactly do you want in a router table (usage wise)?
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I only really need it to make round overs, slots (for t-moulding), and flush trim.
When I read routers are the tool most often responsible for taking off fingers, it scared the heck out of me. I always rationalized that a router on a table would be the safer method for some reason. Could you tell me why a table might be preferred vs freehand?
I was watching this item on Amazon (Rousse deluxe router base plate):
http://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-3509-9-Inch-12-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B00002242B/ref=pd_rhf_f_3/102-1130559-5387338
Thanks NiteWalker
By not finding a router table for the M12V you mean you couldn't find a plate that accepts the router? They're easy to make out of 3/8" acrylic or a similar material. Me personally, I would mount the router directly to the bottom of whatever table you're using.
Now about a router table I think that's one project every craftsman should build rather than overspend on one. They're very simple. If you can build a box you can build a router table. They can also be complex, but that's totally up to the builder.
What exactly do you want in a router table (usage wise)?
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http://www.woodpeck.com (http://www.woodpeck.com) has plates that will fit a M12V, they are expensive though. Like nitewalker said, you could always just mount it directly without the plate.
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I only really need it to make round overs, slots (for t-moulding), and flush trim.
If you'll be doing those things on smaller workpieces a router table would work fine. A bartop for instance, would be an ideal project for a router table. A full size cabinet is best done with a hand router.
When I read routers are the tool most often responsible for taking off fingers, it scared the heck out of me. I always rationalized that a router on a table would be the safer method for some reason. Could you tell me why a table might be preferred vs freehand?
Tablesaws are actually the #1 suspect in workshop related injuries. Tablesaws are notorious for taking the fingers of those who don't respect the tool. I'm not saying a router couldn't mangle your digits, the tablesaw is just more likely to do so statistically speaking.
A router table is safer because there's more support for the work. Say you need to round over an edge, with a hand router there's less than 40% of the base riding on the workpiece. This is a stability issue that can be dangerous if the router tips and you lose balance. On a router table you're moving the workpiece, and unless your router table is obscenely small the workpiece will likely be 80% or more supported depending on it's size.
I prefer the table for easier setups and less clamping. Also some cuts are only possible on a router table like a lock miter bit.
I was watching this item on Amazon (Rousse deluxe router base plate):
http://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-3509-9-Inch-12-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B00002242B/ref=pd_rhf_f_3/102-1130559-5387338
Thanks NiteWalker
The router plate by rousseau is ok but I'd prefer using an aluminum plate as it will never sag the way plastics can. Woodpecker (http://www.woodpeck.com/aluminsert.html) makes the best aluminum router plate money can buy. If I were plate oriented I'd get one of theirs. Yes it's expensive, but it'll outlast your router.
I'm a big fan if direct mounting because it eliminates any possibility of error in your cut because there's no plate to level.
:cheers:
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Say you need to round over an edge, with a hand router there's less than 40% of the base riding on the workpiece.
I noticed that. Why not support the other side of the base away from the bit?
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It's possible with either an Offset sub-base (http://www.patwarner.com/offset_subbase.html) or by double stick taping a scrap of stock the same thickness on the edge of the router base that would normally be riding on open air. I like the offset sub-base.
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I was thinking more like just having something for the wide side of the router to ride on, the way you would be putting in an extra support for a large cut with a circular saw to avoid the piece breaking off before you're done cutting cleanly.
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I'm having trouble picturing what you're describing... ???
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I'm probably not good at describing these things yet.
You're supporting the other side of the router base with something not being cut but on the same plane as the cut and parallel to it. It's running the bit through a slot between two pieces but only cutting one side of the slot. The other piece is an inch or two off the bit.
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Right, that's what I was thinking when I mentioned sticking a piece of scrap on the opposite side of the router base.
We're thinking the same thing...I think... :dizzy:
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There are a lot of ways to help support your router depending on the type of routing you are doing. If you have or can get a copy of shopnotes #56, there is a easy to make flush trim jig to use when cutting trim. #56 actually has 5 pretty useful jigs.
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Right, that's what I was thinking when I mentioned sticking a piece of scrap on the opposite side of the router base.
We're thinking the same thing...I think... :dizzy:
Must have been the double stick tape that threw me. I'm thinking have the offcut support parallel to the cut and you're thinking have it parallel to what is supporting the cut. Yes?
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Pulled it out of the case today, learned how to remove the motor from the base, then had to put it back to do other stuff. :banghead:
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Okay, got back to it... read through the manual, got the hang of swapping bases, putting bits in, adjusting depth, etc. I don't know if this thing will get easier to work with as it wears in but damn the plunge base springs are almost impossible. The lever won't release them unless you yell at it and then once it does it releases the tension like it was shot out of a cannon. It's hard to plunge because the springs are so damn tight.
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One of the reasons I'm not crazy about the 890 series.
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Does it get easier with use? I haven't turned the thing on yet and probably won't in the next few days unless I get a bit of time tomorrow.
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If'n you got some 3-in-1 oil, mebbe see if that'll help. It's not the springs, it's the assembly around the plunge rods that's sticking on you (although the springs when brand new will be stiffer than after a few uses). WD40 if you don't have 3-in-1 (like a sewing machine oil - REALLY lightweight).
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Walmart sells the 3-in-one drew mentioned. Paste wax would probably work better though. A very light coat won't attract dust. Other than that, use I guess.
Best solution? Sell the plunge base on ebay and put the proceeds towards the best plunge router ever made, the Dewalt DW621 (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW621-HP-Plunge-Router/dp/B00005S7TD/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-2223005-5317408?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1176588068&sr=8-1). ;D
Seriously, it should smooth out a bit after some paste wax (I use johnson's; $5 a can) and with use. You can try to wear it in some by plunging it up and down 100 times or so. Also, make sure the motor is in when doing so.
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It's already lubricated enough (came this way) that I needed to wash my hands after playing with it.
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It's raining today. No routing for me. :hissy:
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It's gonna be raining all week here... :hissy:
But I have a basement shop so all I have to deal with is a leaky pipe. It doesn't leak anywhere I work, just where I walk... :timebomb:
Where's you work area? I thought you had a garage. ???
If you have to worj outside you should consider a canopy of some sort. That way you could work outside and enjoy the fresh rain... :dunno
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Nope, no garage for me. I have a really nice shed but I don't want it filled with the type of dust a router makes and at the moment it's not empty enough to put in a decent work area. I do most of my work in the backyard on my picnic table/sawhorses.
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Two days later it is still raining like a mofo.
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Got my "Woodworking with the Router" book through from amazon today. First impressions are excellent - looks to be exactly what I need as a router newbie.
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Got my "Woodworking with the Router" book through from amazon today. First impressions are excellent - looks to be exactly what I need as a router newbie.
Agreed - I finally got my copy from them on Saturday (ordered it early April) and it's very well written. I haven't had a book that heavy since college, though - doubles as a weight-lifting plate! :)