The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Maximus on July 16, 2013, 10:35:35 pm
-
Heavy Victory Ikari Time Barrel Warrior Soldiers Road 'Cammo Edition'
Ikari Warriors is another one of my childhood favorites, so I'm aiming to make this cabinet an EXPLOSION OF AWESOME!!! Covered head-to-toe in camouflage vinyl with bright yellow t-molding and some other little bits of artwork detailing this cabinet is going to put the BOOM in......erm.......BOOM!!! :P
Take your good taste, minimalism, class, period correct design and blow them all up with a tank!! We're going to have fun with this one.
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/ikarifinal01.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/ikarifinal02.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/ikarifinal03.jpg)
The multi switcher & rotary system in action.
Ikari Heavy Barrel & Time Soldiers Multi Cab (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ofxd1tT8Jg#)
The pieces
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/17/suqanypa.jpg)
- Dynamo HS-1 'Cut Corner 'Cabinet
- 19" Samsung Vertical Monitor
- Original Ikari Warriors Rotary Sticks
- NOS Ikari Warriors CP Overlay
- Original Ikari Warriors screen printed Marquee
- Original Ikari Warriors Bezel
- Repro Ikari Warriors Side Art by Fizgig
- Ikari Warriors non-jamma original 3 board PCB stack
- Heavy Barrel Jamma PCB
- Time Soldiers Jamma PCB
- Bob Roberts Ikari Warriors-Jamma converter
- Vector Labs 4-in-1 board switcher
- Custom multi-rotary PCB and harnesses
Exterior Finish
Crazy Camo Automotive Wrap
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/17/6usa6eba.jpg)
Bright Yellow T-Molding from T-Molding.com
(http://www.t-molding.com/store/image.php?type=D&id=102)
-
Stop it you :hissy
-
Good lord. :cheers:
-
Heh, awesomesauce :applaud:
-
I... but you... ??? Good lord, how many projects do you do at any one time? :dizzy:
-
Like i said
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQEnzrRyo3c
-
Addict? What? I can stop at any time. /Twitch
Actually I've been collecting this gear for a while and just needed a decent HS-1 to put it all in. One finally surfaced yesterday, great condition, bright monitor, coindoor, switcher and none-butchered cut corner CPO for $150 local so I had to jump on it.
-
Heavy Victory Ikari Barrel Midnight Road Warriors 'Camo Edition'
You'll probably have this cab done before I get around to finishing the rotary mod on my JLFs. :'(
-
Yeah the cab itself won't take long at all, not sure about the game
Nice clean and overall great shape
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/17/dyjyma3u.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/17/uqu7unat.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/17/a9umu6y4.jpg)
-
Pookie has the gear too, sometimes you should just say no.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE2tPyGJStQ
Just poking at ya..........
I have a bartop build, 4ft mini build and a dedicated MK9 build all going on at the same time....So our dealer is making major bank right now....
-
Lol well as I point out to my wife at least its not cocaine and strippers.
Bondo edgework didn't really need it but may as well keep it sharp
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/17/udy5ujeg.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/17/ahava8up.jpg)
New satin black paint in the front interior and speaker panel
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/17/ysuzuhe9.jpg)
-
Well, i've got my VIP seat for this one.... :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
-
My gawd man! Have you no "honey do" list?
-
My gawd man! Have you no "honey do" list?
Nope, living in a rental right now. In escrow currently though on a place and although it's pretty much turn-key I'm sure there will be plenty to keep me busy once we're in.
-
Ikari Warriors was right up there with Paperboy as one of the games that soaked most of my money as a kid, so I'm pumped to be building my own version for the Maximus arcade.
In my usual style I want this cab to be an explosion of color and art that really shouts and is a celebration of such a fun game, so I'm throwing all good taste and refinement in the trash and wrapping the cab with this automotive vinyl...
(http://image.dhgate.com/albu_285201025_00/1.0x0.jpg)
Then throwing on bright yellow T-molding to key off the yellow in the Ikari Warriors side art, marquee, bezel and CP...
(http://i2.listal.com/image/215047/600full-ikari-warriors-cover.jpg)(http://reliquiasdomame.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/ikari-warriors.jpg)
There should be plenty of visual BOOM!!!! by the time this is finished. ;D
-
My gawd man! Have you no "honey do" list?
Nope,.... it's pretty much turn-key....
(http://generatormeme.com/media/created/h1bbdp.jpg)
-
Yeah. Funny though, the harder I work, the luckier I get.
-
This is surely going to turn out just great, I look forward to following your progress. Here's my findings about the LS-30's: http://www.emphatic.se/?p=991 (http://www.emphatic.se/?p=991)
:cheers:
-
Here's my findings about the LS-30's: http://www.emphatic.se/?p=991 (http://www.emphatic.se/?p=991)
Thanks, I read through that a while back when I was hunting around for my sticks, I haven't pulled them apart yet so not sure what kind of state they are in.
-
A B B A mother ---smurf---
Ikari Warriors - Ikari Warriors Theme (The Minibosses Remix) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwgaZUgv70M#)
-
A B B A mother ---smurf---
(http://freespace.virgin.net/abba.official/imageEIM.JPG)
-
I love ABBA but if you call me a dancing queen i'll kick you in the TopJimmyCooks
-
My wife is threatening to ban me from this site,... it's becoming an obsession as I keep learning new things and wanting to try them out.
-
Sounds naughty.
A nice blank canvas now ready for the fun stuff.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/18/eze6are6.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/18/a6aqa4yh.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/18/u7usyruv.jpg)
-
did you re-laminate or paint?
-
did you re-laminate or paint?
Looks like paint.
-
+1 on the paint. If its going to be completely laminated over with the side art it would seem tedious to laminate twice. I like the way the monitor was mounted. Seems like a good way in case of service. Keep up the good work "Dancin' Queen". >:D
-
Awesome project so far. Always wanted a generic dynamo cab. All of the local arcades here had them and it's really what i played on the most during the late 80's and into the early 90's
kind of a shame that final fight had to go though. :(
-
I will be watching this one as I am half-assing a vertical rotary build. Maybe some of your ambition will rub off on me and my half ass will turn into a 3 quarters-ass.
This is surely going to turn out just great, I look forward to following your progress. Here's my findings about the LS-30's: http://www.emphatic.se/?p=991 (http://www.emphatic.se/?p=991)
:cheers:
Emphatic, I don't think I ever thanked you for your help when posting your findings on my thread about LS-30's. I haven't had a chance to do anything yet, but I wanted to say this is exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks!! :cheers:
-
How do you guys work on so many cabinets, and I can't get the time / proper weather to work on my one?! Seriously, this is an AMAZING project. Can't wait to see more.
-
Emphatic, I don't think I ever thanked you for your help when posting your findings on my thread about LS-30's. I haven't had a chance to do anything yet, but I wanted to say this is exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks!! :cheers:
No problemo. I need to buy a game to try with my LS-30's. My faves are Midnight Resistance and Heavy Barrel. :cheers:
-
How do you guys work on so many cabinets,
Griff will be the first to tell you he gets easily distracted.
-
Griff will be the first to tell you he gets easily distracted.
Wait what.....
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/uruje9ez.jpg)
-
Griff will be the first to tell you he gets easily distracted.
Wait what.....
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/uruje9ez.jpg)
I love how Wonder Woman looks like she is screaming "Hands off my man, ---smurfette---!" at Harley.
-
Lol she wasn't happy about Princess either
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/rehyranu.jpg)
-
Lol she wasn't happy about Princess either
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/rehyranu.jpg)
I wasn't sure what you meant, and then I thought, "Oh, right. I gotcha, man."
:D
-
Oh well back to reality.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/20/jyjune4u.jpg)
New replacement marquee lighting
-
Lol she wasn't happy about Princess either
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/rehyranu.jpg)
Totally awesome.
-
"San Diego Comic Con is Burning Man for shut-ins" - Patton Oswalt
As is the case with pretty much all your projects, i'll be following this one closely.
-
I love ABBA but if you call me a dancing queen i'll kick you in the TopJimmyCooks
Wha?
-
I love ABBA but if you call me a dancing queen i'll kick you in the TopJimmyCooks
Wha?
LOL. Well i was about to write Kick you in the Jimmy and my phone auto-corrected/suggested so I just left it like that :laugh2:
-
Oh, all right.
Subscribed.
AJ
-
I wasn't sure what you meant, and then I thought, "Oh, right. I gotcha, man."
Really? Nothing for this one?
;)
-
Really? Nothing for this one?
Sorry I'm lost
-
Sorry I'm lost
Sigh... (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Science_Ninja_Team_Gatchaman) LOL. YOU EVEN POSED WITH HER!!!
(Seriously though, I know many of us North Americans are only familiar with "Battle of the Planets" or "G-Force".)
-
Groan!!! I used to watch BotP as kid on Saturday mornings back in the very early eighties in the UK, never knew it by another name.
When I saw Vampy dressed as Princess I virtually jumped across three booths to go get her attention. Some little guy in some other outfit was trying to make conversation with her but I totally slid in on wheels and cock-blocked the dude (sorry bro, but I got this). She was very sweet and hot as hell, good times!!!!
If you don't know who she is... https://www.facebook.com/pages/VAMPY-BIT-ME/370120112710 (https://www.facebook.com/pages/VAMPY-BIT-ME/370120112710)
-
You shouldn't block the cock, that just isn't cool man. If I were that dude, I would have smacked you in the TopJimmyCooks.
Of course, you were saving a hapless nerd from needless embarrassment, that might just qualify as a mercy cock-block. In that case, well played.
-
that might just qualify as a mercy cock-block. In that case, well played.
What can I tell ya, I'm a frikkin' humanitarian
-
Training the CP overlay
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/20/u6u4yha9.jpg)
Measured the marquee and its barely high enough to cover the opening so I'm going to have to get creative to get it to sit in the channels of the retainers.
-
Measured the marquee and its barely high enough to cover the opening so I'm going to have to get creative to get it to sit in the channels of the retainers.
Creative seems to be your middle name, so it shouldn't be too hard :laugh2:
-
Thanks DrNick I think the hobby forces you into creativity for sure.
Cut a clear piece same size as the old marquee.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/a4uqera7.jpg)
Stuck the shallow one to that
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/7umanu6u.jpg)
Its been hacked off way short so I either need to find a way to mask the bottom with black trim or find a replacement
-
removed for stating the obvious...
what if you trimmed the marquee area with the yellow T molding?
-
Ikari Warriors was a great game!
-
It still is.
Finally got the handles off the sticks. Thats a ---smurfette--- of a job unless you know exactly how to do it.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/ygupysu9.jpg)
You can see both sticks have had a severe slamming at one point and shafts were bent
-
If yer gonna tap them back straight, use a brass hammer and make sure the bolts are in place if the shafts are hollow. That should be good enough. I wouldn't use heat on those since they're probably heat treated anyway. Just go slow.
Awesome build.
AJ
-
New CP overlay on,looking pretty cool
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/8y9y3y9y.jpg)
The control panel pattern doesn't match up perfectly with the overlay but it will do well enough for this project. I'm just trying to bang out a solid '6ft' cab that will play well and look good in the lineup
-
Jamma converter from Bob Roberts arrived
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/ydyge6us.jpg)
An hour in 50/50 simple green and hot water the buttons and joystick tops look like new
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/anepubuv.jpg)
-
Made a mistake on the CP cutting the polycarb in the wrong holes for the player 1 and 2 buttons. Should be higher.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/e4uryqeb.jpg)
I know it doesn't really make that big of a deal especially as the player buttons aren't ever going to match properly on this CP anyway but I just hate making mistakes that dumb
-
Straightened out the sticks with some good old brute force
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/pemyqeru.jpg)
-
Despite the glitches its still coming together pretty nicely
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/gy2emyqa.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/6udypypu.jpg)
-
That is sexy. Great clean up job with the joystick tops. Shame they went with angled controls when they constructed this thing though, but maybe it doesn't play as awkward as it looks? :cheers:
-
Yeah the joysticks are square to the screen just the buttons angle for left or right handed play.
Both boards testing good.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/22/bugeja4a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/22/de8yjeny.jpg)
-
'Decent progress today.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/22/u6epy5y7.jpg)
Monitor running bright and crisp
Both games working separately.
CP fully wired all buttons and directional movement working.
Heavy barrel sound works
Marquee lighting works
Had the rotation harnesses in backwards which stumped me for a while. Flipped them around and the sticks work great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1L2NSjrU6BU
Still broken.
No sound on ikari warriors. I bought the pcb as tested and working so I will have to contact the seller.
-
Looks like the sound may be related to the -5v line. I bought the board from Ron at Lyons Arcade and he was super speedy and helpful with my questions.
On his advice I checked the -5v and saw the line was completely cut on the Jamma plug nothing to the output on the psu.
We will see how it does once I have that fixed
-
Looks like the sound may be related to the -5v line.
Yeah, I was gonna suggest this. Lookin' hot. :cheers:
-
I suggest hooking up that cut -5V line. Oh wait, Derp.
And please stop using my handle as a euphemism for your "yotsuya". Thanks - the management.
-
Lol. Woke up with an itchy Yotsuya this morning.
Sound fixed. Hooked up the -5v line and it worked. Yay!
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2SsZFNxFOw
-
I suggest hooking up that cut -5V line. Oh wait, Derp.
And please stop using my handle as a euphemism for your "yotsuya". Thanks - the management.
WTF dude?
-
:angry: :angry: :angry:
Pop fizz oopsie!!! Went the Heavy Barrel board this morning. I had it all upside down and back to front just trying to test it with the rotary harnesses now that I had them working in Ikari. Popped the Jamma plug in the wrong way :censored:
The board still plays (which is a miracle) but the player 1 grenade button no longer fires (Of course player 2 is fine, it had to be player 1 :timebomb:). I'll continue to include it in the project for now as I have already bought the Jamma switcher, but I'll have to revisit that in the future.
Happens to us all I guess
The pop fizz smoke came from that big motorola chip in the middle of the board
(http://www.kinemote.net/forsale/hbpcb2.jpg)
-
I suggest hooking up that cut -5V line. Oh wait, Derp.
And please stop using my handle as a euphemism for your "yotsuya". Thanks - the management.
WTF dude?
Uh, ... autocorrect fail?
-
Anyone know how to adjust the horizontal scale on these monitors? As it's turned on it's side I want to stretch the image a little to fill all of the screen height.
I guess like this
Arcade Repair Tips - Adjusting The Horizontal Width Coil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuTlChCko4k#ws)
-
garblgaarrbl!
(can't spell out words because of awesome!)
-
:angry: :angry: :angry:
Pop fizz oopsie!!! Went the Heavy Barrel board this morning. I had it all upside down and back to front just trying to test it with the rotary harnesses now that I had them working in Ikari. Popped the Jamma plug in the wrong way :censored:
The board still plays (which is a miracle) but the player 1 grenade button no longer fires (Of course player 2 is fine, it had to be player 1 :timebomb:). I'll continue to include it in the project for now as I have already bought the Jamma switcher, but I'll have to revisit that in the future.
Happens to us all I guess
The pop fizz smoke came from that big motorola chip in the middle of the board
(http://www.kinemote.net/forsale/hbpcb2.jpg)
that's weird that your Jamma harness isn't keyed to prevent that.
-
Do NOT adjust your horizontal width coil with a metal tool with the chassis powered up. You'll melt the threads of the coil, which will keep you from being able to make any more adjustments. I highly recommend using a "TV adjustment tool" for this.
-
Do NOT adjust your horizontal width coil with a metal tool with the chassis powered up. You'll melt the threads of the coil, which will keep you from being able to make any more adjustments. I highly recommend using a "TV adjustment tool" for this.
Right on. I couldn't see a coil on my monitor though
-
From your thread on KLOV, you said you have a WG19K7611. Here's a component layout from the K7000 manual, the coil looks a little different than what was in the video you posted, the coil itself has a plastic casing.
-
Here's a photo of the area by the flyback. There only seems to be a pot for horizontal position
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/23/ma9azuqu.jpg)
Jamma switch came in so I built a chassis for the board assembly
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/23/sa8e6a4u.jpg)
-
Griff, this is awesome.....that is all
-
Here's a photo of the area by the flyback. There only seems to be a pot for horizontal position
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/23/ma9azuqu.jpg)
The horizontal width coil should be in the area above the top middle of that pic. It's labelled Horiz Size in the diagram I posted previously.
-
Ok I'll try and get a better look at it when I have some decent light. I may have to pull the monitor anyway if the overdrive issues are monitor related.
-
That HORIZ RASTER POSITION jumper, is it like a wide/narrow thing seen on other monitor brand chassis? It might be worth reading up on if nothing else works. :cheers:
-
In other news I went ahead and picked up another original marquee, the one I have is too small and I don't want to start doing all kinds of funky stuff to the cabinet to compensate for it.
Bigger one inbound
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/24/y5e2equ3.jpg)
-
I need to build a splitter cable so I can hook up the rotary harnesses for the joysticks to both game boards. They are 13 pin flat connectors...
(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/1664/ls30gpwiz1.jpg)
Not sure on the verbiage to know what to search for to find either an existing item or gather the parts to build one, anyone know the description I should use to search out these style of flat male/female plugs?
-
Try here Maximus.
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/group?channel=PRODUCTS&key=wire_to_board_connectors (http://www.molex.com/molex/products/group?channel=PRODUCTS&key=wire_to_board_connectors)
Lots of different options and connections.
-
Search "multi rotary" on KLOV. 2600 made some board kits for rotary joysticks being used in 6-in-1 setups. I assembled a few kits for a few KLOV members a year and a half to two years ago. If you have a terminal crimper, you can just use whatever headers and connectors you prefer, no need to limit yourself to a connector type just because it's there. There's usually a few different types available for the different pin pitches.
-
Looks like reply #29 here (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=206182&page=3) has the P/Ns.
If this helps, here are some of the actual JST connector part #'s...
Cable Connector: H13P-SHF-AA
Connector Pins: SHF-001T-0.8BS
PCB Connector RT Angle: BS13-SHF-1AA
Scott
-
Thanks Scott!
I've hit up Takeman to see if he has any of the PCBs left, nice that they will support up to 6 games and are scalable. Neph do you have any of the harnesses left?
-
Neph do you have any of the harnesses left?
Fresh out.
-
Ok. Scott/Neph will these connectors work, the pitch is 0.1" rather than 0.098"
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1920 (http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1920)
-
For making your own harnesses, any connector will work. But you'll probably need to find a 2.50mm pitch connector for connecting the rotary harnesses to the game PCBs... or you could desolder those headers and solder the harnesses to the boards. Skin that cat.
EDIT: Here's a laundry list of headers and connectors with 13 pins at 2.50mm pitch: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/listview.jsp?query=&offset=0&filter=&fs=application%3AWire-to-Board&npp=20&sType=z&autoNav=&path=cHome%23%23-1%23%23-1%7E%7Ef105%7C%7C322e35306d6d%7E%7Enf13%7C%7C3133&channel=Products&key=wire_to_board_connectors (http://www.molex.com/molex/products/listview.jsp?query=&offset=0&filter=&fs=application%3AWire-to-Board&npp=20&sType=z&autoNav=&path=cHome%23%23-1%23%23-1%7E%7Ef105%7C%7C322e35306d6d%7E%7Enf13%7C%7C3133&channel=Products&key=wire_to_board_connectors)
-
Thanks,
Here's what I ended up buying
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=455-2214-ND&x=-1111&y=-51 (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=455-2214-ND&x=-1111&y=-51)
and
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SHF-001T-0.8BS/455-1121-1-ND/527350 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SHF-001T-0.8BS/455-1121-1-ND/527350)
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290799637447?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/290799637447?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
Still need to hear back from Troy (Takeman) who is apparently making the multi-rotary PCBs these days.
Also still need to choose a decent crimper.
-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290799637447?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/290799637447?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
Flag on the play!!
That's solid core wire, not stranded -- it's NOT suitable for crimp connections.
Try this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hook-Up-Wire-Kit-Stranded-Wire/290818315074?_trksid=p2047675.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555003%26algo%3DPW.CAT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D142%26meid%3D62943481076177536%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D1076%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D290799637447%26) stranded kind instead -- same size, same price, same seller.
Also still need to choose a decent crimper.
Suggestions and links here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132248.msg1359256.html#msg1359256) and here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,122409.msg1300420.html#msg1300420).
Scott
-
Ahhhh crap. Oh well always handy to have on the shelf for power applications
-
Suggestions and links here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132248.msg1359256.html#msg1359256) and here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,122409.msg1300420.html#msg1300420).
*clicks links*
I've posted all of this before as well, but nobody listens to me... except for yotsuya.
:laugh2:
-
Coin doors painted
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/24/vypenyba.jpg)
Board chassis mounted
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/24/ba5yte7e.jpg)
One step forward and two steps back is how this project feels right now. Turned the games on and now it's obvious that the power supply is too weak for both games running at the same time. Also the monitor started squealing a super high pitched sound. Hoping I can fix the monitor issue by using the rgb risers on the 2-in-1 board rather than the pinouts on the Jamma plug.
/grumpyface
-
It is very ghetto but I used an IDE ribbon cable for mine. Sure it has more sockets than needed but it fit with a decent connection. :)
-
It is very ghetto but I used an IDE ribbon cable for mine. Sure it has more sockets than needed but it fit with a decent connection. :)
Do you mean for the rotary stick harness or the RGB riser?
-
Tried looking around for alternate PSU options but didn't see much outside of the normal switchers, unless you want to start hacking PC Power supplies, wondering if I can just put two switchers in parallel.
Bought the Waldon HT-1921 Crimpers, seems people really like them.
-
Multi-Rotary update.
Neither 2600 or Takeman are making any of the kits at the moment so I'm going to have to make my own. Looks pretty simple, instead of trying to get all fancy with male 13 pin 2.5mm headers on the multi-rotary board I'm just going to use standard 2.54mm pitch solderable protoboard and solder the ends of the harnesses I am making directly in, each harness pin separated by by a diode except for pin 1 on each harness that will be bridged.
I can build a single board that can house two sticks for 3 games for about $14, just a matter of soldering 48 diodes, 4 bridges and 78 wires.... who says I don't know how to party.
-
Exterior update.
Camo vinyl has been delivered so I have everything I need to finish all the cosmetics, expect funky cool pictures later tonight.
-
Camo vinyl has been delivered...
OBLIGATORY:
A-Team Intro High Quality (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MVonyVSQoM#)
-
Lol it always annoyed me when Mr T catches his arm on the seat when he turns around in the car, I guess that's just me though.
-
Lol it always annoyed me when Mr T catches his arm on the seat when he turns around in the car, I guess that's just me though.
DAMMIT. Cannot unsee! Thanks a lot.
:angry:
-
Mr. T ~ "What you......oweeee my funny bone.....sayin' foo' ?"
-
This going to be fun
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/25/utyjutu8.jpg)
-
Ha!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/25/3a4ama6u.jpg)
-
Coin doors look like crap. Should be hammered black. :angry: :banghead:
:laugh2:
subscribed,
AJ
Ha!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/25/3a4ama6u.jpg)
-
Ha!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/25/3a4ama6u.jpg)
All I see is a picture of a Wagon. :dunno
-
I was laughing like a kid doing this in my garage, I think I'm scaring the neighbors.
Fun fun fun
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/25/hedemusy.jpg)
-
Coin doors look like crap. Should be hammered black. :angry: :banghead:
Lol yeah they were hammered black when I got the cab so I gave them a light keying and then did my textured flat so it's a mixture if both. The flat goes well with the camo
-
Dude, beyond awesome! Great job so jealous
-
This is so over the top, I'm at loss for words. :cheers:
-
Here we go, all the cab and exterior is 99% complete
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/ikarifinal01.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/ikarifinal02.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/ikarifinal03.jpg)
-
Haha!
That is truly amazingly bold!
The yellow t-mold Pops!
-
That's very busy.
-
That's very busy.
You want restrained design go to Ikea >:D
If I had to choose one word to describe this cab it would be....uhmmm......
AWESPLOSION!!!
-
Is this a commission build for Sgt. Slaughter?
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fe/Wwe_wrestler_sgt_slaughter.jpg)
-
I like it!
-
That's very busy.
You want restrained design go to Ikea >:D
If I had to choose one word to describe this cab it would be....uhmmm......
AWESPLOSION!!!
Griffin Maximus never saw a blank space he liked. :cheers:
-
Griffin Maximus never saw a blank space he liked. :cheers:
It's true, "you could put a cup holder there"
-
I will lose all respect for you if you don't post a photo of yourself playing this cab while wearing one of these 80s bad boys:
(http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mm2huXqmkAv6l2L2JDZth5A.jpg)
-
while doing this...
(http://www.dopepose.com/themen/links/moonwalk.jpg)
-
Time to turn a bug into a feature.
I accidentally put the P1 and P2 start buttons too close to the fire/grenade buttons on the CP and it's been bugging me ever since. But then when I got my multi-jamma board I saw that it had a little toggle switch to flick between the two game boards and that got me thinking.
So what I'm going to do is move the P1 and P2 buttons up to where they should be and then build a little plate, probably clear acrylic with graphics underneath that will cover the two holes where the P1 and P2 buttons were. In the middle of the plate will be the switch to toggle between games with each game logo set either side.
Now of course you don't want to accidentally hit that switch when button mashing in game, so what better reason could you need to put in a good old military style covered toggle like this one...
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41SLTVkQR6L._SX342_.jpg)
This should bring some nice themed hardware, graphics and function to the CP while covering up my little oopsie.
-
Switch panel design.
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/centerpanel.jpg)
-
You know I love your work, and I don't give a crap about originality, but you've made a hash of your NOS CP overlay. It's such a cool game cab, It rates reprinting the cp overlay with the switch logos and the right hole locations.
Choose carefully on the switch covers. Every one I've seen moves the toggle bat switch back to the original position when closed. IE if you switch it towards the cover, then push on top of the red cover or hit by accident, it goes back to the original position/game. You could probably beat that by putting a latching small pushbutton switch under it instead of a toggle.
-
Yeah the CP overlay was a NOS one that I got from Fizgig, the problem for me was finding the right Dynamo CP pattern to match it properly, there are so many damn hole patterns out there. I'll keep a look out as I go, hopefully one day I can find the proper Ikari CP hole layout and can redo it properly, but until then I'll just roll with what I already have.
I'll check out that switch cover when it arrives and see if it's an issue. Thanks for the heads up on that.
-
Nice build. If the CP upsets you too much, I can drive cross country to pick it up. It would be nice to see my old stomping grounds (La Mesa).
-
It would be nice to see my old stomping grounds (La Mesa).
Nice, we are in Escrow on a house on the border of El Cajon and La Mesa right now, nice area.
-
Love the switch idea! :cheers:
-
Tonight I'm going to try and make my own multi rotary harness out of all this stuff
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/28/eneguzaj.jpg)
-
Board built harnesses next.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/28/puruzehe.jpg)
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/28/umu9a2uv.jpg)
-
Well crap. This project seems to be a little cursed. The female pins I ordered seem to be too big for the connector blocks. When I try and push the pin into the block, the square housing at the back of the pin is just a bit too large for the opening in the block itself. Very frustrating.
-
Yup. NH series terminal pins won't fit in XH series connector housings. You need these pins for the housings you ordered: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SXH-001T-P0.6/455-1135-1-ND/527370 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SXH-001T-P0.6/455-1135-1-ND/527370)
But turns out you ordered the wrong connector housings to begin with. Scott gave you this part number for the connector housings: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=H13P-SHF-AA (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=H13P-SHF-AA)
Which will work with the pins you already have.
-
Well crap. This project seems to be a little cursed. The female pins I ordered seem to be too big for the connector blocks. When I try and push the pin into the block, the square housing at the back of the pin is just a bit too large for the opening in the block itself. Very frustrating.
It's frustrating because the links I sent were for an NH series receptacle and pins.
Here's what I ended up buying
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=455-2214-ND&x=-1111&y=-51 (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=455-2214-ND&x=-1111&y=-51)
and
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SHF-001T-0.8BS/455-1121-1-ND/527350 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SHF-001T-0.8BS/455-1121-1-ND/527350)
First link is for an XH series connector -- I believe the XH series pins you need for that are here (http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/xh-series/9030) if you want to use them for another project, but confirm on the datasheet (http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eXH.pdf) before you order.
The good news is that the second link is for NH series pins that correspond with the P/N I posted.
The bad news is that I haven't found a source other than DigiKey here (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=H13P-SHF-AA) for the NH series receptacle -- minimum order is 500 pieces for $105.87.
Right now you have 2 joysticks = 2 harnesses = 4 connector ends.
You need 6 connector ends -- 2 for joysticks, 2 for Ikari Warriors, and 2 for Heavy Barrel.
As much as I hate to suggest hacking up perfectly good harnesses, if you could find one more, you can cut the three harnesses in half and splice in extensions that connect to the diode/splitter board.
Scott
-
The bad news is that I haven't found a source other than DigiKey here (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=H13P-SHF-AA) for the NH series receptacle -- minimum order is 500 pieces for $105.87.
Is your Google broken?
http://www.chip1stop.com/web/USA/en/dispDetail.do?partId=JST1-0002457&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=aggregator&utm_source=fc&utm_term=JST1-0002457&cid=fc_JST1-0002457 (http://www.chip1stop.com/web/USA/en/dispDetail.do?partId=JST1-0002457&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=aggregator&utm_source=fc&utm_term=JST1-0002457&cid=fc_JST1-0002457)
-
The bad news is that I haven't found a source other than DigiKey here (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=H13P-SHF-AA) for the NH series receptacle -- minimum order is 500 pieces for $105.87.
Sometimes you can order free samples. It's worth a shot to find out if that's possible, if not from DigiKey, but from the manufacturer directly. :cheers:
-
The bad news is that I haven't found a source other than DigiKey here (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=H13P-SHF-AA) for the NH series receptacle -- minimum order is 500 pieces for $105.87.
Is your Google broken?
http://www.chip1stop.com/web/USA/en/dispDetail.do?partId=JST1-0002457&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=aggregator&utm_source=fc&utm_term=JST1-0002457&cid=fc_JST1-0002457 (http://www.chip1stop.com/web/USA/en/dispDetail.do?partId=JST1-0002457&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=aggregator&utm_source=fc&utm_term=JST1-0002457&cid=fc_JST1-0002457)
D'oh! Missed that one. Great catch. ;D
Hope the shipping from Japan doesn't cost too much. :o
Scott
EDIT:
As I suspected.
Region/Country Order Amount Shipping Fee (per shipment)
NORTH AMERICA Any order amount JPY5,000 or USD60
Any other sources?
-
That's why I prefer Molex over JST. ;)
-
This is all rather complicated to the uninitiated but I'll get there. I do have spare harnesses laying around, one is already cut in two so I'll give that a go
-
Something is still wrong. I took an existing harness and just rearranged the pins so it was a straight-thru configuration. I attached the original joystick harness to the newly made board with the jumper on pin one, then used the straight thru harness to go from the multi-rotary board to the game board. No matter what I did I couldn't get any rotation responses. I tried it in both directions through the diodes in case I had them the wrong way around but still nothing :banghead:
-
Heh. NOOB!
Subscribed.
AJ
-
Something is still wrong. I took an existing harness and just rearranged the pins so it was a straight-thru configuration. I attached the original joystick harness to the newly made board with the jumper on pin one, then used the straight thru harness to go from the multi-rotary board to the game board. No matter what I did I couldn't get any rotation responses. I tried it in both directions through the diodes in case I had them the wrong way around but still nothing :banghead:
You probably have all the diodes pointing the same direction, which means that either one diode was reverse biased or 12 were, depending on how they were pointing and whether the joystick was plugged into the green or yellow connector below.
Remember that the band on the diode looks like a minus sign.
Put the minus sign toward the lower voltage (ground) like below to forward bias the diode when ground is applied so current flows and the diode acts like a closed switch.
In this diagram, the voltage from the signal line comes in on the second signal line, connects to the center wiper and goes back to the board through the ground wire.
Scott
EDIT: Updated the diagram to include the joystick connector (yellow), the two game board connectors (green, blue), and the proper number/location/orientation of diodes. Thanks for catching my earlier error, Neph.
-
There is no diode on the ground, Scott.
Here's a straight on shot of one of the 2600 kits for reference:
(http://forums.arcade-museum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102372&d=1331579258)
Between each header (except the last one and the one above it) there are 25 traces. You sure you got your circuitry right?
-
There is no diode on the ground, Scott.
D'oh!
Didn't notice the direct jumper on the ground line earlier.
Is ground line on the joystick connected to the direct jumpered line on the board and does that line then connect to the ground on the Ikari Warriors board?
Seems like it would be easy to twist a connector around the wrong way. :dunno
Scott
-
I'm going to do some multimeter testing on this and see what's up. Either the diodes are messed up or the connector blocks are not mating with the pins on the board
-
Something is seriously wrong with the board I made its conducting between all pins. On closer inspection it looks like there may be a inner rail across the contacts which means I just wasted 4 hours of going blind
See the fine light green rails under the surface?
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/egu7yqur.jpg)
-
...which means I just wasted 4 hours of going blind
That took 4 hours to solder? :dizzy:
Looks like there's 4 "sections" to the board. If you desolder everything and rotate the board 90 degrees, you could make it work.
-
...which means I just wasted 4 hours of going blind
That took 4 hours to solder? :dizzy:
Looks like there's 4 "sections" to the board. If you desolder everything and rotate the board 90 degrees, you could make it work.
Griff's fast. That would have taken me 6 hours.
-
Griff's fast. That would have taken me 6 BEERS.
There FIFY. You're welcome.
AJ
-
You called it on the traces, Joel.
Looks like you may need to desolder, turn everything 90 degrees, do a few cuts (red) to the board, and resolder everything with the diodes and ground jumper bridging the cuts.
Scott
-
Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......
Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin
Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them
-
Yeah +1000. Why kill it when you can do it cheap and dirty. It's an obscure part, so noone will know. Cept for us :timebomb:
AJ
Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......
Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin
Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them
-
Sometimes the "Schmart" boards.................Aren't so "Smart"
YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAA!
(http://www.freestockphotos.biz/pictures/15/15564/Illustration+of+a+yellow+smiley+face.png)
-
Yeah +1000. Why kill it when you can do it cheap and dirty. It's an obscure part, so noone will know. Cept for us :timebomb:
AJ
Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......
Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin
Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them
You guys did notice that the red cuts don't go all the way across the board, right.
In case I didn't state it clearly before, you're advocating doing the same thing I suggested -- cutting the traces to isolate the center section.
Scott
-
Yeah +1000. Why kill it when you can do it cheap and dirty. It's an obscure part, so noone will know. Cept for us :timebomb:
AJ
Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......
Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin
Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them
You guys did notice that the red cuts don't go all the way across the board, right.
In case I didn't state it clearly before, you're advocating doing the same thing I suggested -- cutting the traces to isolate the center section.
Scott
Oh.....Great minds and all?? :dunno
-
Either way I can't get under so I'd have to pull it all apart. Fortunately I ordered 100 diodes and only need 48 for the build so i have enough for another shot. I just need to find the proper breadboard without any traces.
Good news is that I do have a very nice working Ikari Warriors at least lol
-
Yeah +1000. Why kill it when you can do it cheap and dirty. It's an obscure part, so noone will know. Cept for us :timebomb:
AJ
Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......
Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin
Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them
You guys did notice that the red cuts don't go all the way across the board, right.
In case I didn't state it clearly before, you're advocating doing the same thing I suggested -- cutting the traces to isolate the center section.
Scott
Further proof nobody reads your posts that carefully unless Rush is involved. :laugh:
-
Ok ladies, glad you are all having fun :angry:
Just to verify, I'm going to buy these pins to go with the connector blocks I already have...
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SXH-002T-P0.6/455-2261-1-ND/1651059 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SXH-002T-P0.6/455-2261-1-ND/1651059)
These new headers, because ---fudgesicle--- it I may as well start over...
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134141228&uq=635106966231654104 (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134141228&uq=635106966231654104)
And this for the Perfboard (finally worked out the right term for this stuff)
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134142909&uq=635106981113818017 (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134142909&uq=635106981113818017)
-
In other parts of the build I now have a working Heavy Barrel board (and a broken one ::) ) and I have a proper Happ 15A supply inbound as the crappy generic 11A Samsunsueytronic one I had in there couldn't handle powering both boards at once.
I pulled the broken Heavy Barrel board for now and found that the Ikari worked fine plugged into the Jamma switcher on it's own with the crappy PSU powering it, also the squealing noise was gone from the monitor, so hopefully the new Happ supply will do the job well for both of these boards.
Wired up the coin door.
Fizgig is sending me a replacement LS-30 for my P1 joystick that is a little glitchy, he had a nice one knocking around so he's throwing it my way (Thanks Fizz).
Once the project is finished I'll gather together all the extra bits and pieces in the hope of refurbing them one day, I'll have 3 rotary sticks, 1 slightly biffy Heavy Barrel board, a couple of marquees and some random bezels for the pile 'o pieces box.
-
Did you have to buy a new Heavy Barrel board?
-
Yeah that was an expensive lesson in Jamma harnesses. Fortunately I got one for $70 shipped from a KLOVer who hooked me up, could have been worse.
-
I bought a handful of JAMMA keys from Bob Roberts to avoid that lesson. :cheers:
-
I just... you know... look at them and hook them up the right way. >:D
-
That's very busy.
+1
What's the stock one look like? I'm guessing no camo?
-
Here's Fizgig's very nice repro which is done to the original format
(http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii486/fizgigKLOV/Ikari%20Warriors%20Restoration%202/IMG_2350.jpg)
-
^ Hmm. Stock is kinda dull. I can see why you wanted to spice it up.
-
Yep most of the ikari Warriors were kits for retrofitting existing cabs, the only ones that shipped from the factory came in the generic Dynamo HS-1 black cabinets and the still used the same basic kit.
-
Maybe my memory is failing me, but did the conversions generally instruct for left and and right hand buttons for each player? I don't recall seeing that at all.
-
Maybe my memory is failing me, but did the conversions generally instruct for left and and right hand buttons for each player? I don't recall seeing that at all.
Probably not, I guess they just had one set of buttons per player.
-
These new headers, because ---fudgesicle--- it I may as well start over...
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134141228&uq=635106966231654104 (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134141228&uq=635106966231654104)
And this for the Perfboard (finally worked out the right term for this stuff)
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134142909&uq=635106981113818017 (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134142909&uq=635106981113818017)
Links broken. :dunno
Scott
-
balls. I hate the internet. and components. and soldering things. oh well I ordered them already, so we'll see what happens.
-
Good news. Happ power supply has enough amps to power both boards properly.
Bad news. Happ power supply has enough amps to fry the cheap ---smurfy--- switcher I bought on ebay.
FML
-
I like the original and the camo edition. The only other thing I can think of which would look pretty good would be to paint the cabinet 'army' matt green. Bit of a compromise between the plain black and in yer face camo.
-
The only other thing I can think of which would look pretty good would be to paint the cabinet 'army' matt green.
Army Matt... G.I. Joe's second cousin. The one we don't talk about.
:D
-
Perhaps he means od green:
(http://www.art-paints.com/Paints/Metal/Testors/Model/Flat-Od-Green/Flat-Od-Green-xlg.jpg)
-
Bonus point to the house member that can name what the OD stands for without googling.
-
Bonus point to the house member that can name what the OD stands for without googling.
please. Olive drab.
-
My first thought was slang for Ordinary Seaman. But yeah, olive drab.
Sent from a pineapple under the sea
-
Meanwhile, back on subject
So yeah, I blew up my cheap switcher I got from eBay, not bad so far I have killed a switcher and a good Heavy Barrel board, I'm on a roll :tool:
But never one to let my stupidity from keeping me from completing a project I bought the last of the Vector Labs multi-board switchers from Mike. Nice thing about the VL setup is that it only powers on the game that you switch too, so no more wrestling with trying to power all the boards at once and certainly less waste having boards running when you aren't playing them, not to mention heat, extra power supplies and all that other crap. It's got some nice extra little features like adding virtual credits for games that don't feature free-play options.
The switcher supports up to 4 boards, so I'm going to build my rotary-harnesses and board mounts around that goal even though I only have 2 right now, there'll be room for a Victory Road and another rotatey game although I'm not sure what else is worth putting in there. (Suggestions).
-
Well, sorry to hear this has been a cursed project for ya. My suggestions for a 4th would be guerrilla war or Time soldiers.
-
Midnight Resistance...
I loved that game.
Played it on my last pc based bartop, and I could it play with a normal stick.
But on my xbox Popeye bartop, I need a rotary stick to play the game :banghead:
I like your version better than the original version of the cab :cheers:
-
Well, sorry to hear this has been a cursed project for ya. My suggestions for a 4th would be guerrilla war or Time soldiers.
Time soldiers FTW. It's the reason I have a pair of NOS ls-30's sitting in my garage. Another suggestion would be Bermuda Triangle.
-
Caliber .50!!!!!
-
Here we go, all the cab and exterior is 99% complete
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/ikarifinal01.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/ikarifinal02.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/ikari/ikarifinal03.jpg)
Great job men! just perfect :applaud: i like the background side art :cheers:
I myself have done a month ago to build a machine style IKARI http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132545.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132545.0.html)
-
Ok lets try this again shall we
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/02/ynymezug.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/02/juzu5u3y.jpg)
-
Looks like each solder pad is isolated with no connectng traces.
Have you verified that with your ohmmeter yet?
Have you planned the connector/diode/jumper layout?
Scott
-
Yep they are isolated. And my soldering is getting better
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/02/jetugu5y.jpg)
Here's a crazy idea, I'm going to test it before I go any further
-
Looks good so far.
Scott
-
Yep it worked with my makeshift harness. Now to make a cable. I think I am possibly the worlds worst crimper
-
Yep took me over an hour to make one harness. I was getting better toward the end though. Wax on. Wax off.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/02/ge7ygyry.jpg)
-
And that didn't work because I forgot the pin pitch and size is slightly different on the sticks and boards. I have to chop the harnesses and put my new connectors on the end.
Man I need more sleep.
-
You know, there's this one guy... that makes custom harnesses for members here... (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117852.0.html)
-
Yeah I asked him and he just said he was all out and left it at that so I figured I'd just have to make my own.
-
Franco B? His work is top notch! (and linked in my previous post) ;)
-
Franco B? His work is top notch! (and linked in my previous post) ;)
Ahhhh I thought you were referring to someone grumpier and uglier.
Any hooooooo
Board is all done, not bad for a nub
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/02/e9u2ymeb.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/02/za7yhu3u.jpg)
If anything this project is teaching me to solder better.
-
Ahhhh I thought you were referring to someone grumpier and uglier.
No, ---fudgesicle--- that guy. He doesn't know what the hell he's doing.
-
I had enough diodes left so I figured I'd finish the board for 6 game support. Tomorrow ill start on the harnesses and mounts.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/03/umy4eje4.jpg)
-
Between each header (except the last one and the one above it) there are 25 traces. You sure you got your circuitry right?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=133433.0;attach=293689)
Scott had another diagram up that showed it better, but if you look close in this one, you'll see that the diodes don't go from pin to pin, but instead from one pin on a header that goes to a board and then to a trace that goes all the way to the joystick header (hence the offset in Scott's diagram). I think you might run into an issue with multiple games connected to your rotary board.
-
Its a good design but not needed. 2600s design pin hops all the way back through each header to the joystick just like mine. So hopefully there won't be an issue.
-
2600s design pin hops all the way back through each header to the joystick just like mine.
No it doesn't. That's why 2600's design has 25 traces between each header instead of 13.
In your current configuration (as seen in the attached diagram), it would be possible for the blue board to back feed signal voltage into the green board. In 2600's design, as diagrammed by Scott, thanks to the extra traces and how the diodes are installed into the circuits, it is impossible for one board to backfeed signal voltage into another.
-
But wouldn't you have to have 6 seperate traces going back to each pin for 6 games then
-
No, just 2 for each pin. One of the two runs from the joystick header, all the way back towards the last board header next to (but not connected to) it's associated board header pin of each board header. From the board header pin, a trace runs to one leg of the diode, the other leg of the diode connects to this long trace, not the associated header pin on the neighboring board header.
Hold on, I'll draw it up for you.
-
Like this.
Yellow header being the joystick header, other headers being individual board headers. Ground on the bottom pins.
-
Here's a shot of one if 2600s boards. It looks like they are in series. I see extra traces but the diodes do seem inline.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/03/u5ybydu7.jpg)
If I have indeed ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- this up again I may have ---my bottom--- saved by the fact that the new switcher is different in that it only powers one game board at a time so this may all become over elaborate engineering
-
If I have indeed ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- this up again I may have ---my bottom--- saved by the fact that the new switcher is different in that it only powers one game board at a time so this may all become over elaborate engineering
And if that's the case, there's no need for a diode board, you could have just make some splitter cables.
-
Yep I could have but like I said the switch configuration changed half way through the project. I may as well use the parts I have including a half finished diode board. Good soldering practice if nothing else for my upcoming Amplifone build.
-
Crimping is getting better. Here's a switcher-to-game board straight-thru cable with the proper blocks and pins on each end
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/04/gamydaqy.jpg)
-
I took this diagram down once I saw that Joel had already started soldering, but since Neph mentioned it, here is a side view that uses one wire (red) to daisy chain the diodes in parallel.
Solder the daisy chain to the diode lead as close to the board as possible.
Use wire strippers and slide the insulation to create gaps for soldering then push the insulation back to protect the traces from shorting.
The diagram shows a side view (pins 2, 4, 6, etc.) with the diodes leads bent so that they fit into the 3rd and 5th holes from the previous connector.
For the diodes on the next trace (pins 3, 5, 7, etc.), bend the leads so they fit into the 2nd and 5th holes from the previous connector.
Alternating diode length from one daisy chained line to the next gives you more room to work and decreases the chances of shorting.
Scott
EDIT: One minor adjustment to further reduce odds of shorting.
There should be one more space between each connector so the diodes for pin 2 go from 4th to the 6th hole and the diodes for pin 3 go from the 2nd to the 6th hole.
-
Hopefully it will all be a moot point with single game power switcher.
Rebuilt the interior to better house the new 4 slot setup
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/04/3ypaqynu.jpg)
Single slot-in stands for each game board and a shelf for the upcoming switcher and our notorious rotary harness.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/04/peteheje.jpg)
-
Replaced the graffiti scratched acrylic with nice crystal clear newness .
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/05/de2e6u5e.jpg)
-
Vectorlabs Switcher is on the truck for delivery today so hopefully this evening I'll have some video of this working in multi-game mode.
-
Switcher and daughter boards are here
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/06/re2uzepa.jpg)
-
Well the switcher works beautifully but I continue to be burnt by my ---fudgesicle--- ups on the rotary board. The collective resistance of the diodes is enough to kill the signal so sure enough I'm facing another round of soldering to fix this mess
-
And this continues to be more mysterious. I bridged the sockets and every socket is working for heavy barrel with no shorts or errors. Ikari refuses to rotate on cables I know are good and we're working yesterday. They are in the right way everything checks out.
The only difference is the switcher which has nothing to do with the rotary controls. The only thing I can think is that there's not enough juice making it through the switcher to the Ikari board which is making it act up.
This is the cursed cab from hell
-
After more testing I'm 99 percent sure is the combination of the switcher and the Ikari board. It's always been glitch and certainly doesn't like sharing it's cab with anything else. I may have to consider looking for a native Jamma version as this converted board just doesn't seem to want to play nicely with others.
-
Its a good design but not needed.
Well the switcher works beautifully but I continue to be burnt by my ---fudgesicle--- ups on the rotary board. The collective resistance of the diodes is enough to kill the signal so sure enough I'm facing another round of soldering to fix this mess
How's that saying go? "You can lead a horse to water..."
-
How's that saying go? "You can lead a horse to water..."
You're like my wife with directions. Telling me turn after we drive past the junction.
-
I warned you to check your circuitry long before you did all that soldering. Hell, Scott even drew you a picture, two in fact. Sound advice falls on deaf ears. :dunno
-
Oh well.
Good news is the Ikari Warriors is working in the switch I had the harnesses reversed that were plugged into the boards.
Bad news is that even with only one board powered on the basic splitter still won't work when plugged into more than one board. So I do have to go back and do this again with the proper return traces.
-
Hey Scott. Assuming I only have single layer perfboard to work with. Is this the way I should set up the circuit?
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/07/sy8aby7a.jpg)
-
Hell, Scott even drew you a picture, two in fact.
Umm, actually three -- with several revisions and clarifications, but who's counting. :lol
You're like my wife with directions. Telling me turn after we drive past the junction.
We're here to help, but you're driving 100 MPH through unfamiliar twisty-turny streets in a neighborhood you don't know.
By the time we read what you're trying to do and type up an answer, you're already past the turn.
Giving us more lead time will get you better results.
Remember the sayings, "Fast is slow. Slow is quick." and
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=291497;image)
Stand by for several pics to clarify my diagram from this (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133433.msg1378098.html#msg1378098) post. (Spotted your latest question whiile previewing.)
*Heading off to bend diodes, strip wires, and take pics.
Scott
-
Great thanks Scott.
Yep you are right I do fly through things at speed and often make mistakes. But that's okay it's a discovery process and if I fall down then great, I learn why. Sometimes I misunderstand input when I think I do understand it and then of course things can go wrong too. At the end of the day I enjoy the creative challenges and the lessons learned either from others or from mistakes. I appreciate that you take the time and exhibit such patience with high speed maniacs like myself.
What I cannot abide is those that will take pleasure from mocking others for their mistakes, lack of knowledge or understanding. Spend time pointing out errors and wearing their told-you-so T_shirts with smug pride. Thankfully we have an ignore function in this forum.
-
You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work. :cheers:
-
You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work. :cheers:
Posted just in case the ignore funtion was on.
To be fair, Neph has offered plenty of good advice. Just as you seem fustrated by his apparent "mocking" of your mistakes, I can tell he's equally exasperated by your "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" approach to things. There's room for common ground. Make peace, you two.
-
You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work. :cheers:
Posted just in case the ignore funtion was on.
To be fair, Neph has offered plenty of good advice. Just as you seem fustrated by his apparent "mocking" of your mistakes, I can tell he's equally exasperated by your "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" approach to things. There's room for common ground. Make peace, you two.
:cheers: :stupid
-
Thankfully we have an ignore function in this forum.
We do...?
Oh snap, we do! All this time there was an ignore list feature right under my nose. But IMO, you shouldn't ignore Neph, even as abrasive as he is, he gives good sound advice... you just got to get passed that first layer of rot, the meat underneath is still good. ;)
-
OK, back on topic . . .
This circuit is for plain perfboard (shown) or single-pad PCBs -- boards with multi-pad traces will not work unless you cut the traces.
The diagram is a side view that uses one wire (red) to daisy chain the diodes in parallel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=133433.0;attach=294105;image)
Solder the daisy chain to the diode lead as close to the board as possible. (like the left side wire)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=133433.0;attach=294327;image)
Use wire strippers and slide the insulation to create gaps for soldering then push the insulation back to protect the traces from shorting.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=133433.0;attach=294325;image)
The diagram shows a side view (pins 2, 4, 6, etc.) with the diodes leads bent so that they fit into the 3rd and 5th holes from the previous connector.
For the diodes on the next trace (pins 3, 5, 7, etc.), bend the leads so they fit into the 2nd and 5th holes from the previous connector.
You may need more space between connectors/solder points so the diodes for pin 2 go from 5th to the 7th hole and the diodes for pin 3 go from the 3rd to the 7th hole. (one more space between connectors than in the picture, two more than the diagram)
Alternating diode length from one daisy chained line to the next gives you more room to work and decreases the chances of shorting.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=133433.0;attach=294329;image)
Top view shows diodes installed for pins 2 and 3.
Scott
-
But IMO, you shouldn't ignore Neph, even as abrasive as he is, he gives good sound advice... you just got to get passed that first layer of rot, the meat underneath is still good. ;)
OMG, I'm turning into a PBJ! :o :lol
-
OMG, I'm turning into a PBJ! :o :lol
It had to be one of us. Better you than me. :duckhunt
-
Thanks Scott, the photos help, I don't know which part of my brain refuses to let me understand basics like this, but following these pictures is a big help. I have new diodes and perfboard in the mail, thankfully these parts cost pennies. What I lack in comprehension I make up for in pure hard headed stubborn determination.
VIGO - I've sent you twelvty billion PMs, why you no reply?
-
. . . I have new diodes and perfboard in the mail, thankfully these parts cost pennies. . . .
Pennies plus 5-7$ in shipping per order. ouchy!. whenever I have to order from digi key or mouser I always buy double what I need of the small stuff. You might consider triple ordering m'friend.
-
You might consider triple ordering m'friend.
Aint that the truth ::)
-
VIGO - I've sent you twelvty billion PMs, why you no reply?
Wha - Serious? I haven't gotten anything lately. ???
You must work so fast, you are even faster than your PMs.
-
You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work. :cheers:
Posted just in case the ignore funtion was on.
To be fair, Neph has offered plenty of good advice. Just as you seem fustrated by his apparent "mocking" of your mistakes, I can tell he's equally exasperated by your "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" approach to things. There's room for common ground. Make peace, you two.
Yot, to be clear I never ignore people's advice. I may misunderstand it, jump to conclusions, miss it altogether or consider it and choose to go another way, or find it so vague that I can't follow it but I am never so disrespectful to simply ignore info/advice someone has taken the effort to impart.
-
You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work. :cheers:
Posted just in case the ignore funtion was on.
To be fair, Neph has offered plenty of good advice. Just as you seem fustrated by his apparent "mocking" of your mistakes, I can tell he's equally exasperated by your "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" approach to things. There's room for common ground. Make peace, you two.
Yot, to be clear I never ignore people's advice. I may misunderstand it, jump to conclusions, miss it altogether or consider it and choose to go another way, or find it so vague that I can't follow it but I am never so disrespectful to simply ignore info/advice someone has taken the effort to impart.
:cheers:
Now you and Neph hug it out, bitches*
*Let's Hug It Out ---smurfette--- (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZvarRe-XVQ#)
-
Lol I don't think either of us have/need/want any real reason to hug it out. Moving along.
-
I am never so disrespectful to simply ignore info/advice someone has taken the effort to impart.
Thankfully we have an ignore function in this forum.
(http://img.pandawhale.com/69795-Keanu-Reeves-whoa-gif--PandaWh-FHjR.gif)
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/mu4a5a2a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/8uzabyta.jpg)
Well Scott. It isn't going to win any beauty contests but it works beautifully. Tested last night with both games plugged into joystick 1 on ports 2 and 4.
Thanks so much for the photos and diagrams they helped my tiny brain finally get it.
-
Looks great. :applaud:
Aways glad to assist. :cheers:
Scott
-
Finished building the rotary board tonight. Got a bit better at the mid wire measuring and stripping as I went along.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/15/y7u4a5yr.jpg)
So now we have full support for four games.
Vigo sent me a Time Soldiers board (thanks Vigo you rock!) to add to Ikari and Heavy Barrel so I still have one slot left for a future rotary.
Hopefully I'll install all this this tomorrow and shoot some video of the switching and game play
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ofxd1tT8Jg
-
*THAT* is awesome. I've only played rotary games once or twice as a kid. They look kinda fun!
AJ
-
Smart people that build kick ass machines like this suck...... :badmood:
Damn Griffin the Maximus......... :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
-
Hmmm. Ikari III The Rescue on local craigslist for ~$350...
Nah, wife'd kill me.
AJ
-
Another top-shelf build. :cheers:
-
Thanks Fellas.
Yep it's pretty much finished, I have a spare slot to fill and I'll have to make another couple of rotary harnesses if I do put the last game in, but for these three everything is working great.
A little advice for anyone considering building a multi-Jamma cab. DON'T DO IT!!!!
It's really not worth the time, cost and technical headaches even if you are just doing standard sticks. The games all have different sizes on the monitor, different sound levels, then there's power needs etc etc. Just get a cheap computer, MAME and be done with it. If you feel strongly about the legal issues then fine, buy the boards of the games you are going to play, throw them in a shopping bag and chuck it in the bottom of the cabinet and then just play the MAME ROMs.
But that being said, it's a cool cabinet, not many multi-rotary cabs around so it's nice to be able to say I built one.
Let's call this a warp.
:cheers:
-
Let's call this a warp.
:cheers:
It's a WARP!
-
I'm going somewhere with this...Hang on....
-
WTF?
-
I'm going somewhere with this...Hang on....
(https://i.chzbgr.com/maxW500/3420472064/hE0551D31/)
-
Someone didn't want me hot linking their pic. When I posted it showed a goatse that said no hot linking. The picture below is what I meant. And rablack I don't have a glue sniffing problem. I can quit anytime I want. But I do have a drinking problem...
Drinking Problem (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVOUlNCJK2Y#ws)
-
Love how these threads denigrate in to hilarity. It's Bob approved
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/smilin_bob.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/smilin_bob.jpg.html)
AJ
-
Cat + tape = Experiment (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gl7xr5rftc#)
Skip to 52 seconds if you want to get to the point
-
*THAT* is awesome. I've only played rotary games once or twice as a kid. They look kinda fun!
AJ
Ikari and Heavy Barrel are feckin' awesome. Like Paperboy they are those type of games that you simple have to play using the proper controls.
-
True that! 2 of my fave games as kids suck emulated. 1.) Paperboy 2.) 720
AJ
*THAT* is awesome. I've only played rotary games once or twice as a kid. They look kinda fun!
AJ
Ikari and Heavy Barrel are feckin' awesome. Like Paperboy they are those type of games that you simple have to play using the proper controls.
-
There could be a 720 in my future. Someone I know has one on a circuit says I can have it, and we close escrow on the house tonight so fingers crossed...
-
Didn't get to see the video until now. Wow, that looks great! :applaud: That really looks like a lot of fun. Excellent work.
There could be a 720 in my future. Someone I know has one on a circuit says I can have it, and we close escrow on the house tonight so fingers crossed...
8) I hope this one happens. I would love to see a 720 get the care that you give to your projects.
-
Hmmm. Ikari III The Rescue on local craigslist for ~$350...
Nah, wife'd kill me.
AJ
Heh, was looking at that one, too ;D
However, I noticed it's a horizontal game. Guess you couldn't use this PCB as your 4th, Maximus? Come on, you can add a rotating tube in that cab ;) What -would- you like to have as the 4th game?
Your closing on building multi- games got me thinking of a Rotary Mame build for the collection....
http://www.ultimarc.com/rotary.html (http://www.ultimarc.com/rotary.html)
-
Your closing on building multi- games got me thinking of a Rotary Mame build for the collection....
http://www.ultimarc.com/rotary.html (http://www.ultimarc.com/rotary.html)
With that one, you'll still need an encoder for the joystick U, D, L, R and player buttons.
Consider using a KADE (http://kadevice.com/about-kade/)/AVR Encoder instead -- the easily customizable rotary firmware supports either 2 rotary joysticks and 6 buttons (3 per player) or 1 rotary joystick and 6 buttons. (the 3 preset maps are Player 1 + 2, Player 1, and Player 2)
Scott
-
Cool thanks for the tip :cheers:
If I can get that cabinet, I'll have another project to add to the to-build list.
Otherwise I'll hold off and focus on my cabaret and X-men builds. If not in an acquired full size cab, I'm thinking "rotary bar-top", or is that too small?
-
I'm thinking "rotary bar-top", or is that too small?
Depends on whether you use Happ Rotary Sticks (below) or LS-30s. (Like Joel used in this build.)
The biggest issue will be clearance under the CP.
(http://na.suzohapp.com/images/50/50561800_md.jpg) (http://na.suzohapp.com/php/thumb.php?src=/images/50/50561800_lrg.jpg&x=300&y=300)
Scott
-
Picked up an Ikari II: Victory Road Jamma board for slot number 4, so once that arrives we'll be out of Vacancies. Then it will just be a case of assploding as many things with twisty bullets and grenades as possible from here on into eternity.
-
Finally filled that fourth slot with some Victory Road goodness
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/29/arygemej.jpg)
-
A little advice for anyone considering building a multi-Jamma cab. DON'T DO IT!!!!
Really? That was plan B for 2014.
BTW Good show!
-
Finally filled that fourth slot with some Victory Road goodness
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/29/arygemej.jpg)
"Warriors! Show some guts! You can't escape me! Come get me if you can! Ha ha ha ha haaaaaa!"
-
You know, despite how awesome his Paperboy is and how innovative Revolution is, this is the Griffindod build I'm the most jelly of. Wish it was in my house (except I'd have put Caliber .50 in it)
-
You know, despite how awesome his Paperboy is and how innovative Revolution is, this is the Griffindod build I'm the most jelly of. Wish it was in my house (except I'd have put Caliber .50 in it)
2nd. Except I think that V-Pin build will trump this in level of "jelly-ness".
No wait, the StarWars Rebel build. :-\
(sigh, need to get going on projects)
-
He he thanks guys. Most of my projects are in a bit of a holding pattern right now while we continue to get the new house into shape, here's my current project...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/30/abape8eh.jpg)
This is the platform I'll be building my 12x16 workshop on which will be dedicated space for my builds and restos.
-
OUch. That makes my knees ache.
AJ
-
OUch. That makes my knees ache.
yeah that's why I'm paying that guy in the photo to do it ;D
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQEnzrRyo3c