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i'm making this into a tap handle for a stranger things themed sour we are making for a beer show.

Understand that I am a nitpicker and can't help myself when I see room for improvement.   
I see a lot of little dots where the layer starts and ends.  On something like that which won't bee seen from the rear, I'd move the seam position to the back.
The seam will be a visible line, but the front will look really clean.
My apologies if your seam position is not set to random and I'm misinterpreting something in the picture.

Hi, I have been looking for this Korean lever for a while, and I was curious if anyone here on this forum might have one that they'd be willing to give away!
If anyone is willing, please email me at: braydull123@gmail.com if you have one!

Make one out of cardboard - you can buy large sheets of thick black card stock or "poster board" from any decent art supplies shop. Or just spray paint it when you've finished.

For Sony Trinitron screens it should be a little easier as they bend in only one plane.

Check out this thread, over 20 years old, on making a "$2 cardboard bezel".

You could also check out my own efforts for my Aussie lowboy cab.

Bobby13 even made a bezel out of fiberglass. Search the forum if you are keen on that.

And no the game runs fine in test mode on my other Desktop PC so I have no clue what is going on. 

I have 2 for sale:


First one is 24"x 5"  Works just fine. It does have a black line that runs vertically near the right end of the screen. see the pics. Comes with the controller boards and ac adapter.you’ll need to supply your own hdmi cable. Asking $175 plus shipping.

https://imgur.com/a/1BFRWat


Second one is 19"x6" . Haven't used in a while but as you see in the pics it works fine.  Comes with controller boards and ac adapter.  You supply the HDMI.   $150 plus shipping

https://imgur.com/a/zNpysgr

I have some joystick extenders, I think they will fit where the screw for the shaft is, or maybe i can have something fabricated.

If it's an M6 screw, then that might work well and it will add some space so the 2nd wheel clears the spinner opto.

If it's not, get a long screw and spacer to mount the 2nd encoder wheel.

The stick is about 1.5/2 inches from the case wall. Could I just screw an optical sensor or magnetic reed switch to the side of the wall?

Sounds like a good idea.

Not sure which reed switch to recommend, though.

Hopefully you can find one that has a fast enough response speed and has some screw tabs.

If you can't find one with screw tabs, you can hang the reed switch by the wires using 2 very small loop clamps/adel clamps.

For the optical sensor, I found this on Amazon, would something like this work? This will be pretty awesome if it does work, and seems not to complicated.

If you do go with an optical sensor, the one you posted might be difficult to work with because of the lack of mounting tabs and how shallow the slot between the LED and sensor is -- very little wiggle room.

It might be fine for encoder wheels with an outer rim, but a one tooth encoder wheel can get out of alignment and jam up if the red part of the wheel I posted earlier isn't riding in the slot.

One good bit of news is that 2018 and newer X-Arcade encoders don't use an isolated ground for each connector like the old ones did so that removes one possible issue mentioned in a previous post.   
https://support.xgaming.com/support/solutions/articles/12000003233-advanced-byo-kit-installation-diagram-with-wiring-schematic-

NOTE: The ground wires are all ground, so you can use any ground with any input as needed.

Scott

Also on my MAME PC I was able to get it to show the error it is getting at load time.  I only got to see this by running the windows compatibility trouble shooting mode.  It showed this and then once I press OK the application closes from task manager.

Okay so I just tried running the different cracked versions I have on my other desktop (where I ran the original game mentioned below) and the cracked ones work on that PC.

I thought that it was on Windows 7 but I guess I updated it at some point and it's on Windows 10.

My MAME PC is also Windows 10.

So the ONLY thing I can think of that is different between the two is that my MAME PC is booting Windows in test mode because I have crtemudriver on there because it's for my light gun cabinet.

Does anyone know if that is the reason the game won't work, because it's in test mode?  Both of my cabinet MAME PCs are in test mode and neither of them will boot up the hacked DLL for Friction.

But it's odd because the non-hacked version will boot up just fine.

I am so stumped about this right now.

2 cabs later, I still have the same problem. (I might be stupid)

If you can extend the base, to have a 2nd wheel...  you could use a single Magnet... and to Track it,
a Magnetic Reed Switch, that would be mounted to the Control Panel, on a Riser.

I used a Magnetic Reed switch for a different specialty Controller.  It worked like a Charm.

I have some joystick extenders, I think they will fit where the screw for the shaft is, or maybe i can have something fabricated. From there it sounds like I would need to attach a disc to the extended shaft, either with a magnet attached at the 12 position, or a tooth at the 12 to block an optic sensor when the stick is in that position.

The stick is about 1.5/2 inches from the case wall. Could I just screw an optical sensor or magnetic reed switch to the side of the wall? For the optical sensor, I found this on Amazon, would something like this work? This will be pretty awesome if it does work, and seems not to complicated.