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That would be the expected behavior. No gear engaged = neutral.
It's a bit weird what mame does.

Good to see you around btw

I don't understand the question in the first place.

Do indeed switch to neutral by tapping one of the 4 gear inputs twice.
On a real shifter, I'd move the stick to 1, then pull it slightly back (to have the microswitch in the shifter open) then have it snap back to 1st - you're in neutral now.

You want it to switch to neutral if moving the shifter into neutral position?

I don't think the schematic is correct for the chassis. Here's a closer look at the area in question

Reckon so too, and thanks for the new pic.

Don't want you to break anything, but maybe you could pull it off to get a closer look? There could be markings on side/below we cannot see from above. You could also possibly measure it using one of those meters.

You can confirm if it is an inductor by just using your DMM in ohms mode, as described above.

If it is an inductor, the red dot suggests "2" but without more markers or clues we wouldn't know if it is 22mH or 2200mH, for example.

OTOH, on your latest photo I see there is a dot on the PCB that aligns with the red dot, so possibly just a polarity marker?

You might want to check how hot it gets when TV is powered on. In the ideal world you'd have a thermal camera or a thermal probe for a multimeter, but realistically you probably don't. Failing that, and if you are feeling brave, maybe you could carefully hold a finger nearby.

righteous 

Those are games that uses 256 lines at mostly 55 Hz so it's neither PAL neither NTSC standard but in between. Setting groovymame to NTSC only will cripple those games.

On my TVs those games are using customs 256 modes that somehow fits into PAL preset on my TVs so I have large black bar at the bottom but at least I see whole play area. By default (arcade_15 mode) Irem, Midway games are cut of on the bottom and that's excepted.

I was wondering if you guys have a solution to get the neutral gear to work? It expects a dual input on one gear to shift to neutral. I would like it to behave correctly if anyone has a solution.

Hi Swainy!

Me again! I think this is something I fixed last year, just checked the v1.5.1 package and the accelerator is broken during the Enter Your Name section as you describe. Sorry, I should have realised this earlier.

If you are running windows, you could try the debug version v1.5.1D3 I recently uploaded. I think it should be fixed in there.

Yep, that is working lovely! Cheers mate!

You need to post this on the "Groovymame" branch. Before you do that, read the stickied threads especially the one on monitor presets: https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,116023.0.html

You can experiment with different monitor presets to reduce over/underscan. The defaults provided are "safe" for most, but I find they need tweaking to suit different CRTs. Especially the front/backporch values. To get around different geometries between PAL & NTSC, I use a monitor preset with two sets "crt_range" values, one optimised for ~50hz and the other for ~60hz.

Arcade games are designed as single games for arcade monitors, which can be easily adjusted (with pots) to 100% fill the screen. TVs usually have some overscan built in, typically 2-10% of the picture is off-screen. Adjusting geometry is typically harder for TVs, but overscan can usually be reduced by service menu adjustments or even pots. Some TVs will have different adjustments for NTSC vs PAL.

By comparison, Wiis were made to be used with CRT TVs, so they already took overscan into account when designing the video modes and the games themselves.

I'm having trouble aligning all the parts I see on the photos with your schematic. For example, I can't see where those transistors are. Maybe I'm tired, or going blind, or maybe it is not exactly the right one for your TV.

In any case, the prefix "L" indicates that it is an inductor. Blue suggests "high-voltage"? To identify, there should be a three-color coding, 2 dots on top and a stripe.

For example, as described here: https://coil32.net/design/color-marking.html

These inductors would be of simple coiled wire construction inside. It is uncommon for inductors like this to fail, but when they do they can create a lot of heat.

You can test inductor vs capacitor, without removing from PCB, by using multimeter in ohms mode. Inductor should show low resistance, a few ohms, capacitor should show high/infinite resistance (OL). I also use a "Multi-function Tester T7", which can be purchased cheaply from your favourite online retailers. You'll need to remove it from the PCB for this. Here is a video:





Having a second look at your photos, I also see the blackening/carbonisation occuring on the underside of the PCB at the same spot.

I don't think the schematic is correct for the chassis. Here's a closer look at the area in question

I'm having trouble aligning all the parts I see on the photos with your schematic. For example, I can't see where those transistors are. Maybe I'm tired, or going blind, or maybe it is not exactly the right one for your TV.

In any case, the prefix "L" indicates that it is an inductor. Blue suggests "high-voltage"? To identify, there should be a three-color coding, 2 dots on top and a stripe.

For example, as described here: https://coil32.net/design/color-marking.html

These inductors would be of simple coiled wire construction inside. It is uncommon for inductors like this to fail, but when they do they can create a lot of heat.

You can test inductor vs capacitor, without removing from PCB, by using multimeter in ohms mode. Inductor should show low resistance, a few ohms, capacitor should show high/infinite resistance (OL). I also use a "Multi-function Tester T7", which can be purchased cheaply from your favourite online retailers. You'll need to remove it from the PCB for this. Here is a video:





Having a second look at your photos, I also see the blackening/carbonisation occuring on the underside of the PCB at the same spot.