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Hi GPForverer2024!

Good news, I've got the revcounter working! I just need to tidy the code up, then I'll create a new package for you with instructions how to do it yourself (circuit design, parts list etc..). Hopefully have this ready by next weekend. I'll try and upload a youtube clip of it working at some point too. Almost there, thanks for you patience!

I’d get some kind of black vinyl decal to slap over that damage on the back.  Otherwise, another man might see it and it would reflect poorly on your craftsmanship.

Otherwise, beautiful.

Players 3 and 4 are the second team so map the second controller to one of those.

With the exception of the marquee area (still very undecided on this), this one is pretty much done. For now I have a one way mirror type tint on there. Thinking of an infinity mirror something or other.



A couple oops I made - I drilled a hole in the back and I cracked the laminate there. Not super concerned because who is ever going to look at the back? Still irritating though. I drilled the hole for the power cord at an angle so it would be happy sitting on either a surface or mounted to the wall. I used some CA glue to "fix" the cracked laminate and to add reinforcement to the underlying MDF in that area.





I also had a big mess on my workbench and my hot glue gun melted a big hole in the front t-molding. I'm lucky it was just the t-molding. I had some more on hand and was able to burn that with my soldering iron!  More t-molding on the way.
When I routed the back for the t-molding last weekend, I decided it would be a good idea to route the inside of the back for t-molding as well. When I pounded the t-molding in, it seemed really loose. Duh, the pressure of the t-molding coming into the same area on both the inside and the outside caused the MDF to spit apart. Fixed it with some gorilla glue and decided for the inside t-molding to cut the t part off and just glue it directly to the MDF instead of pounding it into the slot hoping the MDF wouldn't come apart again. Seemed to work fine and the back seems solid now so lesson learned with that.

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,169620.0.html

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,169620.0.html

Something you might want to consider instead of buying the game cartridge is getting a NetDIMM. That's a special cartridge that Sega created for the NAOMI that could be loaded with a game over the network. The communication has been reverse engineered, and it's possible to use a Raspberry Pi to load games. That also allows playing games that were only released on GD-ROM, and games for the Atomiswave. (First result from an eBay search to show what it looks like. It also needs a Zero PIC and replacement BIOS.)

You'll also need to figure out how to interface the controls. The NAOMI uses JVS through the "USB" port. Physically it's a USB port, but electrically it isn't, so never connect an actual USB device to it. It also has Maple bus connectors (the protocol that Dreamcast controllers use, but a different connector), but from what I've read not all games support that. I don't know if World Series 99 does or if you'll need to find a different way to connect. There's also OpenJVS that you can use to hook up various controllers (again using a Raspberry Pi), but it needs the controls hooked up to the Pi over USB so you would need some way to connect it.

model number G-500-SKR-B

Ok, ACTION buttons are indeed mapped to O and P keyboard keys (respectively for 1P and 2P)

There's no key mapping option in DemulShooter_GUI or vonfig for that, it hardcoded for now. Don't remember why I choose those 2 keys (also for vcop3 buttons)

Wiki updated !

ordered lexan top I will drill above the existing holes I guess lol..using sanwa shaft extender(thats what she said) for the  height