Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: WHAT IS THE SWITCH ON THE MONITOR BOARD DO. MY MONITOR TURNED ON BEFORE  (Read 8046 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
JUST PUT IN ALL NEW FUSES IN THE WHOLE MACHINE.. AND STILL NOT PICTURE.. I WOULD THINK YOU WOULD HEAR THAT SOUND THAT A SIGNAL IS GOING THROUGH . BUT I DONT. IAM LOST.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
i just retested all the important wires with my voltage tester.. they all gave me a strong signal. what do i do next..

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
i didnt see any other fuses on the board , but then again i didnt take it apart.. is there normaly more than one?

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
JUST TOOK IT ALL APART.. THERE IS NOT OTHER FUSE..AND NOTHING IS BURT. MY NEXT PLAN IS TO GO AND TAKE EVERY WIRE OUT AND PUT EM IN ONE BY ONE.. I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
Still have the same problem. did you guys forget about me?

Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
I'm afraid I have nothing else to suggest :( If it isn't loose connections or blown fuses then that points to something more serious.. which would mean at the least taking the chassis out and replacing some parts (without knowing what that switch does, we can't really say for sure). Depending on your skill level, you might want to send it off to someone to repair it if they offer a service for your monitor.. or maybe even find a new one if all else fails.

ADD:
Could you have a look, see if you can find any other names or model number identification and also tell us the size of the monitor. Maybe a hi-res picture of the chassis also would help someone here identify it if you can't find any other info on it.
« Last Edit: July 23, 2009, 03:20:02 pm by Nipedley »

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
i assumed that switch was sort of standard on the board. iv looked there is no other numbers. or markings.i guess my next step is to figure out in detail what that switch is for and how i can get it to activate again. i dont think the monitor is bad. i really think iam just missing something. i cant uderstand why a voltage switch wouldnt just turn back, in a worse case you just pull the power supply for a momemnt and it would come back. but i dont get anything. its almost like its not getting power but it is. there is only 3 things to conect. 1 is the power cord. 2nd is a blue wire that gets connected to the game contols 3rd is a connection from the pcb to the back of the monitor board, i guess this wouldnt be getting to me so much if it gave me a sign that is was turning on.. iam woundering it maybe... hum..there is a voltage box that has if i rememeber a button for 120/240 volts.. maybe that has to be reset somehow.. ill take a pic of it .. let me know what you think

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
the top picture is the box that i was talking about

Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
From the pictures, that power supply box in your picture is for the game board, sadly should have no effect at all on the monitor. What that does is purely power the game pcb's in the cabinet.

Out of interest what region are you in? For some reason I thought new york but I have no idea where I got that from or if its right!

Oh and nice catch of a Virtua Cop there, im very envious ;) I love that game

It does seem like there's something amiss but without being there it's difficult to tell what! That big transformer with the 120v on it is what is powering your monitor, check through the entire wiring from that transformer back to the plug and up to the monitor and make sure nothing's loose or hiding a fuse somewhere..
« Last Edit: July 23, 2009, 12:34:10 pm by Nipedley »

Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
Sorry to double post but I've been doing some digging and found out some info. I couldn't find anything on your specific GMK-20P but I found a lot on similar Hitachi GMK chassis. They are standard res - medium res switchable chassis, which means they can display different resolutions of gameboards. And that is changed by a switch. I have a feeling this is what has happened here, that you flicked the switch and changed the monitor into Standard Res mode while it was on (not advisable!) and the gameboard you are using is a Medium Res board, so the signal was not what it was expecting.

Needless to say this usually fries something, our own grantspain said in another thread I found that the HOT (horizontal output transistor) is usually the culprit.

I think step 1 here would be to confirm thats what the switch does (rub the dust off around the switch and look for any markings, saying Res, 15khz, 24khz etc.)

If this is what's happened then you would need to remove the chassis from the monitor, identify the HOT and replace the part, then hope nothing else was damaged too :(
« Last Edit: July 23, 2009, 12:36:05 pm by Nipedley »

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
checking on that switch.. lol.. i had to get out my magnifyer..lol..
the olny markings on it was 431Z and on the board S701

Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
Shame there isnt any more evidence but I think theres a high probability that's what it was. It's a medium res game, switchable sync chassis... that's a switch.. lol and I did find one picture of a similar model and the switch was close to where yours is.

Sad to say it but I think you're going to have to do some repair work :( Shame for such a small error as well.
« Last Edit: July 23, 2009, 02:55:10 pm by Nipedley »

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
ok .. how do i replace "the hot" ..

Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
What is your skill level as regards arcade chassis/electronics/soldering? If you put your location and aren't up to it, it's possible a close byoac'er could help you out.

First you would need to remove the monitor from the machine... then discharge the monitor (there is a guide for that in the 'MONITOR FAQ' at the top of the monitor forum), that part is very very important, then after that you can remove the chassis (the pcb) from the monitor. Then you need to identify the HOT (horizontal output transistor) and desolder it, remove the part, install a new one and solder it back in.

It's possible something else could have been damaged too, but others will be more knowledgeable about that than me..

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
iam a beginger with monitors .. but ive dont cap kits before.
iam looking at what i think needs to be replace .. there is the wire Red that goes to the monitor..
if thats it.. then i need to defuse the monitor..( i hate that)
and the one i have has a part on it that looks like there should be another wire similar to the red one.. but there is nothing there..

Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
If you've done a cap kit then it won't be too much more difficult. The horizontal output transistor as the name suggests is a transistor. It will be fairly large, in the sense of maybe 2 - 3cm wide and a cm and a half high (that's just a general guide, yours may be slightly different), usually black in colour, and will probably be attatched to a heatsink. I attatched a picture of my HOT at the bottom so you know what sort of thing to look for, its very unlikely it will be exactly the same.

You shouldn't need to replace the flyback (with the red wire) however you will need to discharge/defuse it in order to take the pcb off to do the soldering. There are usually a few large transistors on your board, seeing how we cant know how extensive the damage is I would recommend you order a replacement for all the large transistors, just incase.

You will need to take down the part numbers of the transistors to order the replacements.

Kevin Mullins

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4504
  • Last login:February 01, 2021, 01:29:34 pm
    • Me on Myspace
and the one i have has a part on it that looks like there should be another wire similar to the red one.. but there is nothing there..

If you are looking at what I think you are looking at, then that is a screw hole.

Nipedley - What kind of monitor do you have ?
That IC looks more like a Vertical IC.
A typical H.O.T. is a large three legged transistor.
Not a technician . . . . just a DIY'er.

Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
Hmm it's possible, I have a Hantarex Mtc 9000. Off the top of my head I thought my HOT was a TDA1670, maybe that was one of the other parts I replaced (all of them!).

Nevertheless, the appearance should point him in the right direction.
« Last Edit: July 23, 2009, 04:00:17 pm by Nipedley »

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
i just noticed this thing is made in japan.. its going to be hard to find the part. i need to find spec sheet on this..

Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
Even if it was, the parts used on the chassis should be mostly universal and available. I couldn't find a manual or anything referring to your chassis, at best 3 out of focus japanese (I can read japanese but not when it's out of focus) schematics pages for a similar GMK series chassis. Your best bet is to replace every big black transistor that looks like that, it won't cost you that much and you can be safe in the knowledge all of them will work if any of them have been damaged.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
any idea where to buy them..
or should i just buy a new monitor.. i was hoping this problem was goin to be easy


Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
Kevin was right, that was my vertical deflection IC (it's been a while). Below is the picture of my HOT (yours should be similarish in appearance).

Again where are you? If in the UK, Cricklewood electronics have provided every component I've ever required. If they don't have it they may be able to source it for you. In the US I have no idea, as I'm in the UK :) But they might ship to you anyway.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
iam in us..
how would i test that.. ?
the same way with the tester>

Kevin Mullins

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4504
  • Last login:February 01, 2021, 01:29:34 pm
    • Me on Myspace
Check with the diode/continuity function of your meter.
Look for any dead shorts between the legs.

POWER OFF !!
Not a technician . . . . just a DIY'er.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
I think i found the problem.. i just tested every circut . the power blug shows bad on the meter.. some of the soter on the board it touching the soter on the fuse holder. iam thinking maybe i need a new power cord.. iam attaching a picture

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
and io did check that circut and it was fine/

Nipedley

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 483
  • Last login:October 04, 2024, 12:03:26 am
It shows bad? How so? It's difficult to tell what you mean, and the flash whites out the picture so I can't see much there either ;D

I wouldn't worry about the solder, that wouldn't have changed through the flick of a switch anyhow.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
yea that didnt do anything..
this is realy stressing me out.

Beretta

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 798
  • Last login:December 20, 2021, 02:11:30 pm
um if im not mistaken down you have to test resistors, transistors, and diodes OUT side of a circuit.. IE: you have ot remove it or you'll get mixed readings..
Anyone got change for a dollar?
PLEASE HELP NEED Fastmame .70 and .9* releases

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
iam not sure what to do next.. iam ready to give up ...

Kevin Mullins

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4504
  • Last login:February 01, 2021, 01:29:34 pm
    • Me on Myspace
You could always pull the chassis and send it to someone.
Not a technician . . . . just a DIY'er.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
i could but not tring to loose money on this.. and i know ill loose on the repairs...

Kevin Mullins

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4504
  • Last login:February 01, 2021, 01:29:34 pm
    • Me on Myspace
Depends on who helps ya out.... where abouts are you located ?
Not a technician . . . . just a DIY'er.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
new hampsire.
id fix it if i knew exactly what the problem was

SirPeale

  • Green Mountain Man
  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+23)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 12963
  • Last login:August 04, 2023, 09:51:57 am
  • Arcade Repair in New England
    • Arcade Game and Other Coin-Op Projects
What part of NH?  I live in Brattleboro, VT.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
right next to keene.
maybe you can come check it out sometime.

SirPeale

  • Green Mountain Man
  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+23)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 12963
  • Last login:August 04, 2023, 09:51:57 am
  • Arcade Repair in New England
    • Arcade Game and Other Coin-Op Projects
No kidding!  Nice to meet someone local.

ROBHAD

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 42
  • Last login:July 30, 2009, 11:40:42 am
super deal .. what do you have for games.. when can you check this monitor out.