Author Topic: Arcade Legacy - Mame Cabinet Project (Read 18706 times)

KagatoAMV · « **on:** March 23, 2009, 12:23:58 pm »

I had one of those, "It seemed like a good idea at the time" moments and brought home an old empty cabinet to convert into a Mame machine.

It wasn't until I got it home into the garage that I realized just how much work it'll take to get it into shape. The cabinet is rock solid, but cosmetically it has seen better days. The control panel tells me it spent some part of its life as a NeoGeo, but closer inspection leads me to believe this was a generic cabinet or a kit.

The Marquee brackets are a little bent but still usable, what's with the incandescent bulb?

When I first looked at the cabinet I figured I could replace the broken t-molding, but it looks like the groove was routed left of center. I think they wanted to use half inch t-molding on 5/8". The funny thing is, it is left of center on both sides.

One of the first things I need to do is patch the t-molding groove and cut a new one.

There is a lot of extra "Security Iron" on this cabinet, I'm guessing it wasn't in place at the world's nicest location. There were two heavy duty brackets bolting the Control Panel closed.

And the Coin Door had its own Vault Door.

Something is very odd about this control panel. There are holes for the classic fighting game six button layout as well as joystick holes. However, new holes for the NeoGeo button layout were cut as well as slightly different joystick holes. The NeoGeo control panel overlay was stuck on over it and the plexi on top of that disguised the old holes.

Remnants of the wiring harness are visible inside. It is a Jamma connector, but there are also a number of severed wires and other wires spliced together with electrical tape. It looks like an old blue button is still wired to the harness, but wasn't needed for the NeoGeo layout.

Now, where to start...

(edited to fix image tag)

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #1 on:** March 23, 2009, 12:31:31 pm »

Well, the first thing I did was remove the security brackets and vault door. That is a lot of extra metal...

The coindoor is in decent shape, although I'm tempted to strip it and repaint. There are even more holes to be patched.

I need to decide how to proceed internally, the angled shelf inside isn't practical. I need to replace that with a shelf for the monitor. Then do I try to salvage the control panel, or build a larger box that will afford me a more comfortable layout?

I know I need to patch the T-molding grove and reroute it. Can anyone recommend the best material to use? I'm not sure if wood filler can stand up to being routed and then hold the molding in place.

I couldn't get a good picture of it, but the paint job is horrible. So I'll need to sand and repaint the cabinet as well.

Ralman · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2009, 12:52:52 pm »

Are the sides 5/8" thick?

Can't tell from the picture is the t-molding was trimmed, but they may have used offset t-molding, such as:
http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=15&cat=8&page=1

Anyway, the cab looks to be in decent shape. Sucks about all those extra holes.

You could always re-use the security hardware to keep any nosy friends out of the cab.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #3 on:** March 23, 2009, 05:17:06 pm »

Mmm ... Dynamo (yes, generic) ...

Nice cab to start with for MAME -- can't beat that pull-out board for mounting stuff on (unless you are keeping your PC in the case, in which case I guess it would be annoying).

Hitek · « **Reply #4 on:** March 24, 2009, 02:39:05 am »

KagatoAMV,
With regards to the t-molding, I had an old ring-king cab like that with the "offset" groove. If you don't want to fill/reroute it, check the width of your side panels. I believe you can use this stuff: 13/16" offset t-molding.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #5 on:** March 24, 2009, 01:31:52 pm »

You're correct, the sides are 3/4", not 5/8".

My guess is the slot was cut for that offset t-molding, but then regular 3/4" t-molding was used. Close examination shows one side of the t-molding has been trimmed away, and the far edge is painted to try to hide the fact the t-molding didn't cover it. It was also held in place by a number of nails, which have made a mess of the slot in several places.

I think I could use the offset t-molding, although its 13/16" vs 3/4", I'm tempted to patch and reroute the edges, just so I can use more colorful t-molding.

Ralman · « **Reply #6 on:** March 24, 2009, 03:18:03 pm »

Personally I would be worried about trying to patch the slot and cut a new one.

Even if you can get the slot completely filled, you will have a very thin sliver of wood between the patched slot and the new one. I don't know if that would hold up very well. There might be a chance of pulling out that sliver when cutting the new slot, leaving a something that is too wide to hold in the new molding.

Mind you I have never tried this, but maybe someone else on the board has done so.

You might want to try a test piece first to see if it is possible. Cut a slot similar to the existing one, patch, and try cutting the second slot.

However, I remember that someone on the board puts on their t-molding by cutting off the ribbed section and gluing it on. I believe it was psychotech. A quick search shows that he has only done it with bartop cabs, not fullsize ones.

Of course gluing it on is more permanent than using the slot method.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #7 on:** March 30, 2009, 07:03:52 pm »

I removed all the components from the cabinet and sanded the exterior, getting rid of almost all the old paint. I think I'm going to go forward with patching the old t-molding grove with Minwax High Performance, I'm told it is a lot like bondo for wood. Hopefully it'll route well enough, but there is no way I can use the old routed slots, there is just to much damage. I'll patch the holes in the cabinet as well.

Thebeast · « **Reply #8 on:** April 06, 2009, 02:08:17 pm »

I had the exact same "Iron" all over my dynamo cab. Mine was a Neo-Geo MVS with 2 carts. I have mine gutted of all the original gear and sanded down like yours at the moment.

My project will likely take me forever to complete since I have had my cab for a few months and still seem to be in the begininng stages. I cant wait to see yours finished.

I'm sure this will be awesome when you get it finished.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #9 on:** July 20, 2010, 06:41:11 pm »

Resurrecting my old project post; after a year or so I'm finally back to working on my cabinet.

I want to call the cabinet "Hyperion", for a while I was tempted to do a Steampunk or Brutal Legend themed cabinet, maybe on the next one I do by scratch.

It will be a two player cabinet, Joystick + 7 buttons per player, with a spinner in the center. There aren't enough games I like to play that use trackballs for me to devote the space to one of those.

Sadly, I havent' figured out the art style I want to go with, so that will likely be done last.

After the hiatus, I got back to work, I used wood filler to patch the offset t-molding slot, the security hardware holes and the general cabinet damage. I let it set for well over a month (other projects came up) and then sanded it. I also patched some damage in the bottom of the cabinet.

Cutting the new t-molding slot went very smoothly. I would have liked to have cut a slot above the marquee, but I couldn't figure out how to do so safely.

I've decided to build a control panel inspired by the design of the Mortal Kombat CP. The first step was to create the bottom shelf to support the rest of the panel. I cut a hole in the bottom so the top can be secured from through the coin door.

I was hoping to design this CP without altering the cabinet, but I suspect I'm going to need to cut a little bit out of the cabinet where the old CP use to be.

More progress to follow...

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #10 on:** July 21, 2010, 02:29:09 pm »

I cut two holes to mount the new speakers through. Once in place, I'll cover the holes with sort of speaker grill.

I had patched the small holes that originally severed to let sound through, although oddly the old wiring had a single speaker attached to the back of this mdf panel between the two sets of speaker "grills", I can't imagine that worked very well.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #11 on:** July 22, 2010, 02:30:56 pm »

I attached the sides of the control panel to the lower shelf. I wanted to make sure that it would fit into the cabinet once it was fixed in place

At first I thought I'd fix the shelf and control panel to the cabinet permanently, now I'm leaning toward making it removable for easier troubleshooting and transport. Now I can finish the CP, figure out how to do the hinges for the top.

This last picture shows where the top of the control panel top won't close because of the existing cabinet. I'm thinking of removing a small bit so it will close cleanly.

jholman76 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 22, 2010, 03:27:50 pm »

Off topic, but...

The name caught my eye. There is a very large Oil company with the same name. They are building a very large refinery about 1.5hrs south of me. Big hubba-baloo. Lots of politics...

Good start on the cab. Lord I hate slot cutters... nothing like a 25000 RPM spinning piece of carbide ready to shoot through your innards!

I only say that since you are DONE with that part!

joe

severdhed · « **Reply #13 on:** July 23, 2010, 05:15:31 pm »

awesome, glad to see this project back on track. i have a cabinet just like this i plan on installing a larger control panel on, and i'd love to see how you do it

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #14 on:** August 12, 2010, 05:46:49 pm »

I'm still trying to figure out how I want to attach the control panel top to the rest of the control panel, and then to the cabinet itself.

I have come up with a tentative layout for the buttons. I'm still debating what admin buttons I'll need.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #15 on:** August 17, 2010, 11:56:16 am »

I printed out the design of my control panel on paper and taped it to the CP. However, I'm not happy with the button spacing, they feel to far apart. I'm going to try out some other button layouts. Anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks.

severdhed · « **Reply #16 on:** August 17, 2010, 12:15:48 pm »

I like my button holes 1.5" apart on center
As for admin buttons, less is better. I prefer only exit and pause... all other functions can be handled by shifted commands or a keyboard

kingchimp · « **Reply #17 on:** August 17, 2010, 12:23:50 pm »

Have a look over at http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html

I'm a fan of the Vewlix layout near the bottom, although it might be worth printing out a couple you like the look of to see what you prefer.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #18 on:** August 19, 2010, 03:30:00 pm »

Thanks for the advice, I've tried out several layouts and I think I've figure out what I'm most comfortable with.

I still need to settle on where everything will go on the panel, but I'm happy with this spacing.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #19 on:** August 30, 2010, 12:38:05 pm »

I was able to make a little more progress on my cabinet.

I printed my finalized control layout, then spray-tacked that onto the control panel.

Then I drilled out all the button holes.

And once that was done, I fitted the control panel clamps I got from GGG. I thought they would be harder to get right, but it worked the first time.

severdhed · « **Reply #20 on:** August 30, 2010, 12:40:41 pm »

looking good. keep those pics coming. I ended up abandoning my project like this, since i got a good deal on a showcase cabinet, but who knows, maybe someday down the road i will end up doing this yet. looks good so far

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #21 on:** September 01, 2010, 11:51:35 am »

Thanks. I've been trying to do a little work on it every day.

It took a little coaxing, but now the control panel box slides into the cabinet solidly.

When the original CP snapped into place, it would double as a means of securing the glass in place. My new CP doesn't press against the glass in the same way, so I think I'll hide a small metal bracket to secure the glass.

I think I'm ready to put a coat of primer on it.

Mikezilla · « **Reply #22 on:** September 01, 2010, 03:31:03 pm »

Dude that looks awesome, congrats.

I have a dynamo cab that Im mame'ing and I was going to try and build a panel like youre building, but I dont have the tools or the know-how, so I just got a replacement dynamo CP for 40 bucks that I need to clean up, rewire etc. I cant wait to see how it looks when its done, maybe later down the road I can muster up the courage to try and do what youre doing.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #23 on:** September 07, 2010, 11:32:30 am »

I tackled priming the cabinet during the long weekend.

I still need to paint the underside of the control panel, and the back of the cabinet. I forgot about that until the last minute.

severdhed · « **Reply #24 on:** September 07, 2010, 11:37:05 am »

very cool. what color are you planning on painting it? it looks good in white.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #25 on:** September 07, 2010, 03:54:44 pm »

I think the white looks a lot better in the photos than real life.

The plan is to paint it black.

When I started the project I was leaning toward a theme with the name "Hyperion" but this weekend I had a flash of inspiration, so I whipped up this in photoshop. Not only is it a homage to the upcoming Tron Legacy film, but also to the legacy of arcade machines in general. So I might lean toward a more tron-like theme, without actual images from the film.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #26 on:** September 08, 2010, 02:51:24 pm »

A friend suggested a different font, so I might try out a few. This will need some sort of background, perhaps a green grid.

severdhed · « **Reply #27 on:** September 08, 2010, 03:07:00 pm »

i like it

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #28 on:** September 14, 2010, 12:27:31 pm »

I've made more progress, the cabinet is painted, two coats of white primer, and now two coats of black semi-gloss.

I need to inspect it closely to see if I need to re-coat it anywhere.

I probably should have removed the clamping hardware and then painted, but since the clamps are inside I suppose it doesn't matter.

Now I need to pick up a VESA mounting plate for the monitor, as well as a pair of clamps to hold the control panel box inside the cabinet. I should have ordered two sets to begin with.

MikeyMerse · « **Reply #29 on:** September 14, 2010, 12:45:12 pm »

Nice work! I'm actually at the same stages as you, just giving the cab some coats of paint now before installing the electronics.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #30 on:** September 15, 2010, 01:59:35 pm »

Thanks! All the positive feedback has been quite encouraging.

I put another coat of black on the control panel and I'm waiting on the paint to cure before I start applying the t-molding. I'm going to need to take a knife to the slot to clear out dried paint. Should make the tmolding stick better, right?

I think I'm going with the "Arcade Legacy" name; although I'm still deciding on the exact look. I tweaked the "D" a little and tried a different method of simulating the neon glow.

Nicodumas · « **Reply #31 on:** September 15, 2010, 02:07:36 pm »

Curse you TRON! I saw the name and read it is Atrcade

severdhed · « **Reply #32 on:** September 15, 2010, 02:36:46 pm »

looking good

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #33 on:** September 17, 2010, 02:28:07 pm »

This marquee is growing on me as I add details. Although I think I need to add more color to it in order to make it look right on the cabinet.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #34 on:** September 22, 2010, 11:00:54 am »

I'm going to use a Dell 2000FP LCD monitor for the cabinet. I picked up a VESA wall mount, then attach that to a sheet of plywood that will mount against the frame where the cabinet's original tube monitor mounted.

I had to remove the back of the monitor bezel, the plastic was formed in a way that prevented the mount from working. Now I need to paint the wood and secure it inside the cabinet.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #35 on:** September 27, 2010, 12:45:53 pm »

I got more work done this weekend, including painting the montior mounting board and starting the control panel wiring. I need to read up on some other's entries here as to the best place to mount the keyboard encoder.

The first attached picture is of what I added to secure the monitor board to the cabinet. It doesn't have to support the weight, just hold it in place.

The second is the underside of the control panel as I installed the joystick mounting kit. I decided not to recess the joysticks, if I end up not liking it mounted as is, I can always turn them 90 degrees and try the other way. In retrospect, I should have installed the mounting kit before painting. I don't remember now why I decided to do it as a last step.

Next: Off to Radio Shack to buy some more quick disconnects.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #36 on:** October 04, 2010, 12:01:06 pm »

First I installed a new florescent fixture for the marquee light. The cabinet originally had a single incandescent bulb. Then I started on the T-Molding

I need to buy a new hot glue gun, the end of one piece of t-molding isn't staying in place on its own. I'm happy with how well the tmolding worked here, the original t-molding grove was offset and damaged in a lot of places.

The control panel wiring is nearly complete, I haven't figured out where to mount the spinner's little pcb board. Once I've figured that out, and tested all the buttons, then I'll tighten up the wiring, right now it is a bit of mess.

I'll put t-molding along the bottom edge of the top of the panel once the cpo is in place. Which reminds me I still need to design the cpo.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #37 on:** October 08, 2010, 11:49:30 am »

I secured the speakers in place using small mounting squares and zip ties.

Next, I finished the coin door repaint and mounted that into the cabinet.

The plastic pieces from the coin door were in such rotten shape that I ordered new buttons, bezel and coin return flaps from Lizard Licks. It should look pretty good with those in place.

When I got the cabinet, it was missing two sets of bolts/brackets that help secure the coin door in place, anyone know of a place to order them?

Mikezilla · « **Reply #38 on:** October 08, 2010, 12:32:00 pm »

Yeah I got a guy that might be able to help you out. His website is weird, but he has some good used items such as bolts, brackets etc...

http://thearcadeboneyard.com/CoinDoorParts.html

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #39 on:** October 11, 2010, 10:25:24 am »

Thanks Mikezilla, that link is perfect, he let me order just 2 of the bracket/bolts I needed.

Mikezilla · « **Reply #40 on:** October 11, 2010, 11:36:26 am »

No problem good sir. I try to help out when I can! Im still new to this hobby so I cant really help out as much as I would like due to lack of knowledge

The cab looks great btw. Keep up the good work! Im jealous!

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #41 on:** October 11, 2010, 11:38:19 am »

I got some work done this past weekend. The parts I ordered for the coin door showed up so I installed those

Mounting the control panel to the cabinet had a few rough spots. I ended up needing to sand the paint down so the bottom of the control panel would fit inside the cabinet properly.

In this pic you can see the control panel base, without the control panel itself. I still need to order some clamps to hold it in place. Inside you can see where the black control panel bottom meets the white cross piece I mounted inside. That is where the clamps will go.

The control panel slides out, once out far enough, I can reach inside and undo the two clamps holding the control panel to the base.

It is a little hard to see the details of the control panel in place because of the lack of contrast of all the semi-gloss black surfaces.

From this angle the way the control panel meets the cabinet is more visible.

DirtyDachshunds · « **Reply #42 on:** October 11, 2010, 02:06:40 pm »

Looking nice. Not far to go.

severdhed · « **Reply #43 on:** October 11, 2010, 04:06:02 pm »

looking good, keep up the good work

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #44 on:** October 11, 2010, 05:07:51 pm »

Thanks!

Still lots of work to be done. The software side of things is barely configured. I need to finish configuring the OS to automatically launch Mala and then configure Mala to run things smoothly. I also haven't been able to get Daphne to recognize my joysticks, although it will "see" the buttons just fine.

And there is a lot of clean up inside once everything is working...

Then I need to finish the Marquee and design the CPO...

yotsuya · « **Reply #45 on:** October 15, 2010, 11:02:16 pm »

Because of this topic, I was introduced to The Arcade Boneyard. That guy is solid. He had some parts I needed and saved me a lot of money in the process.

Your cab's looking good, Kagato.

Mikezilla · « **Reply #46 on:** October 18, 2010, 02:07:20 pm »

Yup. Thats why I put him up here, bought some stuff off of him and he is a cool guy. Hopefully he could get some extra business with the exposure.

yotsuya · « **Reply #47 on:** October 18, 2010, 03:20:52 pm »

Yeah, not only did he have what I needed, I placed the order Tuesday, and by Friday afternoon I had my items. I ended up converting one of those Happ Standard Non-Working Coin Doors for Home Cabinets (you know, the kind that are there for looks only) into an actual working coin door with the parts I got from him. I highly recommend The Arcade Boneyard. Thanks, Mikezilla!

Mikezilla · « **Reply #48 on:** October 18, 2010, 05:44:12 pm »

Thats awesome!!! No problem at all! Glad he had the parts you needed!

yotsuya · « **Reply #49 on:** October 18, 2010, 09:47:52 pm »

Is he on the vendor's list? He should be!

Mikezilla · « **Reply #50 on:** October 19, 2010, 11:58:06 am »

Oops. No, I didnt put him on there, I forgot about that!

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #51 on:** October 20, 2010, 03:01:47 pm »

I have a draft of the control panel overlay I'm pretty happy with. I'm working on it at 300dpi in Photoshop.

The white box around the edge and the circles for the buttons wouldn't be printed. However I would print the centering + to help match the holes. I'm extending the artwork a little beyond the edges in case I mess up.

yotsuya · « **Reply #52 on:** October 21, 2010, 12:08:27 am »

I'm really liking what I see here, Kagato, especially with how you created the control panel.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #53 on:** November 02, 2010, 12:43:14 pm »

I haven't posted an update in a while. I've been working on the front end design and trying to get Daphne to work.

Here is background image I'm working on for the front end.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #54 on:** November 08, 2010, 06:20:33 pm »

Still at work on this project, I ordered my CPO from Game On Graphix, although the receipt doesn't say they have associated my purchase with the file I uploaded. We'll see what I get...

The original cabinet came with a particle board & glossy black cardboard bezel. I've taken some wood trim and worked it into a bezel around the 20" LCD I'm using for the cabinet. The trick is to prepare the bezel so it doesn't look like a hunk of wood painted black.

I installed some wood pieces to hold the PC case and Subwoofer in place inside the cabinet and created a wood frame to hold the DVD drive in front of the lower coin door.

Rick · « **Reply #55 on:** November 09, 2010, 08:22:50 am »

Quote from: KagatoAMV on November 02, 2010, 12:43:14 pm

I haven't posted an update in a while. I've been working on the front end design and trying to get Daphne to work.

Loving the look. I figure this is as good a place as any to ask - what front end are you using, and how easy is it to create your own design? I have Maximus, but haven't played with the front end designer at all yet.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #56 on:** November 09, 2010, 11:55:13 am »

I'm working with the Mala front end right now. The design seems to boil down to creating a background image (which I attached a few posts back) and then placing elements the front end uses, such as game list, marquee image, screen shots, onto the background image. Then the creation of game lists, there are so many game rom images out there that to just present them all in one long list isn't practical. So I'm working on various lists to make it easier, I'm going to include a list of the games I consider a must of an "Arcade Legacy" then a list of fighting games, shooters, beat-em-ups, platformers, and maybe by manufacturer.

The tutorials on front end customization are okay, but what I've found more informative is downloading a front end layout, and then opening that layout in the designer to see what does what.

I haven't quite figured out switching between emulators yet.

EvilNuff · « **Reply #57 on:** November 10, 2010, 08:20:57 am »

In Mala turn on tree view and then you can set up different emulators down the tree. Under each one you can have custom lists such as you mentioned.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #58 on:** November 11, 2010, 11:49:44 am »

Some construction progress photos this time. I've added the second pair of clamps to the control panel so it can be secured when slid into position. You can see the paper version of my control panel overlay in the photo too.

I mounted the catch plates for the clamps on the crossbar inside the cabinet.

You can also see the DVD drive mounted in front of the lower coin door and the wood braces I put in place to hold the computer case and sub woofer.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #59 on:** November 17, 2010, 11:13:45 am »

The bezel is finished, I'm letting the paint cure before I install it in the cabinet and put the glass on top of it.

Sadly, I think the bezel really makes the monitor look small. I'm wondering if some sort of instruction card mounted along the bottom would help?

It isn't that big of a deal, something to worry about once the rest of the cabinet is done.

I also completed the small wood panel I'm going to mount inside for the power button and volume control. I'll try to mount that inside tonight.

Rick · « **Reply #60 on:** November 17, 2010, 11:15:43 am »

Quote from: KagatoAMV on November 17, 2010, 11:13:45 am

Sadly, I think the bezel really makes the monitor look small. I'm wondering if some sort of instruction card mounted along the bottom would help?

I always liked the look of the instruction cards, or even some type of graphic surrounding the bezel itself. As long as it isn't too overwhelming, I'd go that route. DEFINITELY loving the look of the bezel. Awesome work, again.

yotsuya · « **Reply #61 on:** November 17, 2010, 11:18:36 am »

Quote

Sadly, I think the bezel really makes the monitor look small. I'm wondering if some sort of instruction card mounted along the bottom would help?

It isn't that big of a deal, something to worry about once the rest of the cabinet is done.

I also completed the small wood panel I'm going to mount inside for the power button and volume control. I'll try to mount that inside tonight.

I had a friend of mine print up a bezel that I mounted on foamboard and put to go around my 19 inch LCD monitor. It looks great. You might want to consider that, or at least the instruction card.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #62 on:** November 18, 2010, 11:20:44 am »

The Control Panel Overlay arrived from Game on Graphix, I think they did a great job. I started the install last night and should have it completed today.

I also finished building the volume and power button control panel I'm going to mount just inside the top coin door. That should go in place tonight as well.

Mikezilla · « **Reply #63 on:** November 18, 2010, 01:48:55 pm »

Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- dude... That looks grea. Your cab is gonna dominate when its all done!!! I cant wait to see the finished build!

yotsuya · « **Reply #64 on:** November 18, 2010, 02:21:49 pm »

Yeah, nice work there!

EvilNuff · « **Reply #65 on:** November 19, 2010, 08:53:07 am »

Is your power button illuminated or a die cut vinyl sticker?

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #66 on:** November 19, 2010, 10:19:56 am »

It is a blue vinyl sticker, but man an illuminated button like that would be cool.

skinz · « **Reply #67 on:** November 19, 2010, 10:39:14 am »

Great job on the power button/Volume - inspirational!!!!

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #68 on:** November 19, 2010, 11:07:34 am »

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the feedback.

I did complete the control panel overlay install last night. I notice a few minor details I got wrong, can't really fix them now, but I learned from it.

After playing a few games, it is clear I assembled the joysticks a little wrong, so I need to go back in and fix that tonight.

I brought the cabinet into the house, getting to cold and dusty in the garage to keep working on it out there.

EvilNuff · « **Reply #69 on:** November 19, 2010, 02:34:16 pm »

Quote from: KagatoAMV on November 19, 2010, 10:19:56 am

It is a blue vinyl sticker, but man an illuminated button like that would be cool.

This is the best I have come up with so far:

Excuse the really low quality cameraphone picture, the power image actually does not appear blurry in person. The problem is the power logo is only illuminated so when the cab is off it is not obvious that its a power button. I am still exploring other options for a lit power button.

DCsegaDH · « **Reply #70 on:** November 20, 2010, 02:11:43 pm »

Good job, the cabinet looks nice with the blue t molding!

Mikezilla · « **Reply #71 on:** November 22, 2010, 11:36:53 am »

Ageed, it loos great. It seems like it would be a little cooler with a bigger monitor/TV. Dont get me wrong, the cab looks AMAZING (I could never do that) I just think there is a lot of dead space on the bezel considering its so big. I know you said youre going to get some art around it, so hopefully that spruces it up.

garnerb350 · « **Reply #72 on:** November 22, 2010, 03:28:20 pm »

Awesome job ...just awesome!

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #73 on:** March 06, 2012, 05:15:52 pm »

You know the old saying that once you get a project working, there is a tendency to stop work on it? Well, I fell into that for more that a year, distracted by other projects.

I'm posting again because I am inspired to start working on my marquee design again. I'll post an update once I get something ready.

yotsuya · « **Reply #74 on:** March 06, 2012, 05:17:21 pm »

Awesome- this is one of my favorite traditional design projects!

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #75 on:** March 27, 2012, 08:30:40 pm »

I haven't forgotten to post here, instead I am having trouble coming up with a good marquee idea.

I might post some of my discarded ideas and see if you folks have some suggestions.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #76 on:** March 27, 2012, 09:29:29 pm »

Here are the two ideas I've been playing with, the only difference is the font for "Legacy"

TheShaner · « **Reply #77 on:** March 27, 2012, 11:07:28 pm »

Im digging the more pixelated version. Seems more retro and fitting. Just my 2 cents.

Uncle Monkey · « **Reply #78 on:** March 28, 2012, 12:28:35 pm »

Quote from: TheShaner on March 27, 2012, 11:07:28 pm

Im digging the more pixelated version. Seems more retro and fitting. Just my 2 cents.

Yes, the bottom one is MUCH better

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #79 on:** March 28, 2012, 03:19:24 pm »

Quote from: Uncle Monkey on March 28, 2012, 12:28:35 pm

Quote from: TheShaner on March 27, 2012, 11:07:28 pm
Im digging the more pixelated version. Seems more retro and fitting. Just my 2 cents.

Yes, the bottom one is MUCH better

Thanks! I like that one better myself. I feel like it should have something more to it, either more color, or images, or something.

Woodshop Flunky · « **Reply #80 on:** March 28, 2012, 03:37:54 pm »

Quote from: KagatoAMV on March 28, 2012, 03:19:24 pm

Thanks! I like that one better myself. I feel like it should have something more to it, either more color, or images, or something.

I like it... but I think your right... it could use a little more. The first thing that came to mind was the neon sign over the Tron game in the movie. Maybe some border type elements on your marquee?

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #81 on:** March 28, 2012, 03:43:07 pm »

While I haven't been able to settle on a marquee idea, I did install wiring for the coin door lights. I set up a pair of jumbo blue LEDs (and resistor) to the +12 volt of the computer wiring harness.

The initial test of the wiring almost set my computer on fire.

I wired everything together, soldered all the connections and even setup heat shrink tubing to cover all the solder spots. But I didn't want to activate the tubing until I had done one final test. So I made sure all the tubing was in place and plugged the circuit into the harness. The blue lights lit perfectly. Cool.

I decided to pick up the LED end to shine the light around... this is where things went... poorly.

The tubing slid away from the joint closest to the harness, this created a short on the +12 volt line. The door lights were plugged into a daisy chain of wires for the case fans. Several of these short wires grew bright red, the insullation melted/flaked off and smoke started pouring from the wiring.

After a moment of surprise, I unplugged the computer.

Fortunately, no real harm was done, I rewired all the case fans and made sure the shrink tubing was secure before testing the coin door lights again.

Yenome · « **Reply #82 on:** March 28, 2012, 04:23:28 pm »

i have a cab just like yours except mine as this stupid area in that back that dips into the cab. but i do think im gonna use your idea of building a new control panel for it.

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #83 on:** March 29, 2012, 11:50:57 pm »

Quote from: Woodshop Flunky on March 28, 2012, 03:37:54 pm

I like it... but I think your right... it could use a little more. The first thing that came to mind was the neon sign over the Tron game in the movie. Maybe some border type elements on your marquee?

This is a bit direct of a steal from the neon sign, but I like the direction I'm going here.

I'm waiting on a friend to render a 3D version of "ARCADE" which I think will look better, its based on a great Photoshop tutorial of the Tron legacy logo.

Woodshop Flunky · « **Reply #84 on:** March 30, 2012, 12:09:51 am »

Quote from: KagatoAMV on March 29, 2012, 11:50:57 pm

This is a bit direct of a steal from the neon sign, but I like the direction I'm going here.

+1

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #85 on:** April 13, 2012, 05:34:55 pm »

Did some more designing for the marquee, threw in an Encom logo for the fun of it.

Then dropped the grid background and used a frame from Tron Legacy

Santoro · « **Reply #86 on:** April 13, 2012, 09:29:20 pm »

I like all of those! What font did you use for 'Legacy?'

SNAAKE · « **Reply #87 on:** April 14, 2012, 04:07:53 pm »

badass marquee

KagatoAMV · « **Reply #88 on:** April 15, 2012, 11:22:10 pm »

Thanks.

The font I used for LEGACY is called Arcade.


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