Ralman's Jukebox [11/17/09 - 99% Complete & Functional]

[Ralman]

After lurking on these forums for a couple of years now and driving my wife nuts with talk about arcade cabinets and jukeboxes, I finally started to piece together my own ideas.

For a first project, I figured might as well start off small.  Well that, and I don't really have room for a full cabinet at the moment.  So a floor standing, upright jukebox it is.

15" ELO LCD touchscreen to be mounted at the top. Speakers, amp, and the AT PSU go in the bottom section.  A full size ATX motherboard, PSU, drives, and accessories go in the middle section.



Nothing drastic about the basic shape.  But a decent amount of time went into keeping it to a small footprint, but being able to fit all the needed components.

I have a set of surface mount speakers and an amp from an old car audio setup that were just collecting dust in the basement.  Might as well put them to use.  A quick test of powering the amp off an old AT PSU, also collecting dust in the basement, and presto, we have a working sound system.  A hooked up one of my iRiver H320 MP3 players for a quick test.  The speakers actually have a decent sound, with some bass.  It won't shake the house, but it can get loud if needed.



Here is just some of the pieces I have ready to go.  Speakers, amp, AT PSU, dual 12" blue cold-cathode kit, dual 12" white cold-cathode kit, a sound activated power module, a couple of rocker switches, and a momentary push button vandal switch.  Oh, and a spool of chrome t-molding.



The rocker switches will be to turn the lights on/off, the push button is for the PC power switch.  I will be taking apart another PSU for the power plug and  switch to turn the amp PSU on/off.

Plexiglass just came in today.  One sheet has some shipping damage in the corner, but nothing major.  A sheet of "modder's mesh" has also been added to the pile.

A couple of weekends ago, I picked up some 3/4" MDF and started making sawdust on the back patio.  Not bad for a couple of hours work.  The real pain was cutting the 45 degree angles with a hand held circular saw.  It only took about 7-8 attempts, between two different saws to figure out a method that worked.  I forgot to take pictures during the cutting, so here is the result at the end of the day.

[Fordman]

Looks Great So far! 

 Keep the Pics Coming!

Fordman

[Ralman]

This past weekend, I lucked out and had two decent days to get some work done outside.

Saturday was spent working on the speaker panel. 

Since the speaker openings are the same, and symmetrical in terms of layout, time for a template.  I stuck it down with some carpet tape, drilled some holes near the corners, and cut out the majority with a jigsaw.



One issue though.  There was nothing to grab onto to pull the template off once I flush trimmed the opening.  Wound up having to get a couple of putty knives to work an edge up.  I think I used just a bit too much tape on the first opening.



Flip the template and panel over and repeat for the other opening.  For those who use this method in the future, make sure you mount the template to the back of the piece.  As you can see on the front of this piece, the carpet tape wound up taking off some of the surface on my panel.  It looks worse in the picture than in person.  I should be able to sand out the imperfection when I get to the finishing stage.



The front side of the speaker openings were rounded over for a little better appearance.



Using a 1-1/4" diameter by 1/4" slot cutting bit, a recess for the mesh and speaker grills to sit in gets put on the back.



Finished panel front and back...





To wind up the day, a run around the sides with the slot cutter for the t-molding.

[Ralman]

Sunday was a bit slower of a day.  Only really had small amount of progress.

Put together a circle cutting jig based on the plans that javeryh posted a while back, they can be found here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=82554.0

I did modify the plans a bit to extend the maximum circle size.  His plans can handle up to 16 1/2", I pushed mine up to 18".  Not much of a change, but I don't want to exactly copy anyone's work.  Anyway, thanks for the plans javeryh!!!!!

When I ordered the 1/16" slot cutter set, I also picked up t-track kit for the knobs, and the guides, if I ever get a table saw or router table.  This makes it very easy to adjust the pivot point.

Of course, I then had to test it out after spending all that time on it.  So I cut the radius for the top monitor panel.  Worked like a charm.  Made 3 shallow passes and all was said and done.





Then I packed it in for the weekend.  Not bad progress so far it seems.

[BobA]

Great progress for the short time you have worked on your juke.  Nice small footprint on the unit.  Look forward to watching your progress. 

[Ralman]

Just adding a quick pic of the plexi and mesh that is waiting for use.

1- 500mm x 500mm modder's mesh (perforated metal sheet)
1- 24" x 48" x 1/8" black acrylic
1- 24" x 24" x 1/8" blue acrylic

[Paladin]

I love your design, and your doing a fantastic job!

I recently picked up a used touchscreen kiosk to play around with, and was thinking of removing the front door and turning it into a speaker panel.  I like your design and look forward to more progress pics!


My kiosk:

[Ralman]

Thanks.

That is a nice looking kiosk.  Plenty of room for the internals, and some massive sound if desired.

I actually based the general shape of the jukebox after some touchscreen kiosks found online, such as the ones here: http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/Touch_Screen_Kiosk.html



I flipped the idea around since I wanted the front to have a little more dimension to it.  Since it is going up against a wall, it seems like a waste to put the profile in the back. Plus it worked out better for me in terms of placing all the components.

On top of that, some ideas were borrowed from the "Mountain" style jukeboxes, such as the plexi overlay on the monitor panel, and the mesh speaker grills.  The rest of the acrylic will be going as inserts in the speaker grill areas, and as a backlit design in the center panel.  Now to just come up with designs I can work/live with.

[Ralman]

This is the original concept of the placement for the internals.  The blue items are the PC internals, and you can see the speakers, mounts, and amp in the bottom.



Of course, once I actually have the shell together, I know placement is going to change.
The support brackets, lights, wiring, and switches are not accounted for.

By adding an inset design to the middle panel, the PC will sit back a little more, plus I need to cut a panel to hold it since it will no longer be mounted to the front.

I have also reconsidered the design of the back door.  There will now be one larger door instead of two with panels at the top and bottom for structural support and somewhere to mount the switches and power plugs.

[shardian]

I like your design! I may have to steal a bit of it for my eventual design. That flat front will lend itself nicely to a coin mech. 

[mountain]

Looking good there Man!

My mind is churning after seeing that red kiosk sample you posted above. That has the makings of a kick ass juke!

Very nice circle jig too 

[Bender]

Looking good there Man!

My mind is churning after seeing that red kiosk sample you posted above. That has the makings of a kick ass juke!

Very nice circle jig too 

that thing caught my eye too
I saved that image the moment I saw it
That shape out of some really nice wood would be very cool

[Ralman]

Argh... 

Feels like I wasted the day.  The plan for the day was to work on the monitor panel.

Cut out a piece of black plexi slightly oversized to the panel using a 32tpi hacksaw (probably overkill, took some time, but no chance of cracking).  Glued it down using 3M Hi-Strength Spray Adhesive 90.  Clamped the sucker down with a piece of MDF, and then stacked about 15 lbs on it.  Set it aside for 30 minutes.

While waiting for the adhesive to fully bond, I cut a sheet of MDF to the width for the door on the back.  It still needs to be cut to length, but I don't know the dimension yet.  Won't really know until I assemble the shell and put in the back supports at the top and bottom.

Went and took out the monitor panel, flush trimmed the sides and top arch.  All was gong smoothly.  Put in a 45 degree v-shaped bit in the router, set up a fence and went to trim the bottom portion of the plexi to match the already cut bevel.  Wouldn't you know it the fence walked on me.  Took out an extra 1/16" on one side.  Actually that worked out well since I was off just a bit on that side anyway.

Set up the fences for the monitor hole, and flush trimmed that.  Flipped it over, put the bevel on the top side of the plexi around the monitor hole Again all went well.  Hell yeah, everything was coming along great.

Now when I went to route out the recess for the monitor, the router slipped and gouged into the plexi and cracked it.   

Oh well, at least I have extra black plexi, and will still have enough left over for the design in the center panel.  Again, still working on that.

Well, looks like next weekend will me a second attempt at the monitor panel.

[leapinlew]

Argh... 

Feels like I wasted the day.  The plan for the day was to work on the monitor panel.

Cut out a piece of black plexi slightly oversized to the panel using a 32tpi hacksaw (probably overkill, took some time, but no chance of cracking).  Glued it down using 3M Hi-Strength Spray Adhesive 90.  Clamped the sucker down with a piece of MDF, and then stacked about 15 lbs on it.  Set it aside for 30 minutes.

While waiting for the adhesive to fully bond, I cut a sheet of MDF to the width for the door on the back.  It still needs to be cut to length, but I don't know the dimension yet.  Won't really know until I assemble the shell and put in the back supports at the top and bottom.

Went and took out the monitor panel, flush trimmed the sides and top arch.  All was gong smoothly.  Put in a 45 degree v-shaped bit in the router, set up a fence and went to trim the bottom portion of the plexi to match the already cut bevel.  Wouldn't you know it the fence walked on me.  Took out an extra 1/16" on one side.  Actually that worked out well since I was off just a bit on that side anyway.

Set up the fences for the monitor hole, and flush trimmed that.  Flipped it over, put the bevel on the top side of the plexi around the monitor hole Again all went well.  Hell yeah, everything was coming along great.

Now when I went to route out the recess for the monitor, the router slipped and gouged into the plexi and cracked it.   

Oh well, at least I have extra black plexi, and will still have enough left over for the design in the center panel.  Again, still working on that.

Well, looks like next weekend will me a second attempt at the monitor panel.

 

Best to just take a break and go at it again later with a clearer head. I think we've all had to suffer those kinds of set backs. Keep trooping along. It's looking good.

[Ralman]

Thanks leapinlew.

No fear, I have not given up yet, just a little discouraged after the mishap.

I know I should have called it a day when the snow flurries in 45F weather started. 

Good thing I planned ahead and ordered the larger sheet of black plexi.  I should have just enough to have another go at the monitor bezel, and still have some left over.

Next time, I will try using a top bearing bit instead of a bushing.  The bushing length may have been part of the issue.  A 1/2" height on the bushing used with a 1/2" thick guide may not have been a smart thing. 

[Ralman]

In regards to mountain's and bender's comments.  I have to say, the red kiosk sure is an eye catcher.

After watching some of the other work going on recently, I should be possible using 1/8" hardboard or mdf to make the bend without issue.  A metallic laminate on on the edges would sure make it pop.

I think I will need to start looking for laminate sources when I move onto the next project.

[javeryh]

I love your design.  I especially like your circle jig - it looks a heck of a lot nicer than mine!

Don't worry about the setback - we've all been there and it sucks.   

[DaOld Man]

Man, i like the idea of this juke.

[Ralman]

Well, I was able to get back to working on the jukebox this weekend.  The weather on Saturday was a mixed bag, raining off and on all day so I worked inside working on the speaker panel.

Started off by squaring up the recess on the back of the panel with some freshly sharpened chisels.



Next I cut out four pieces of the blue acrylic to sit inside the recess.  Squared them up, and then went ahead and cut a curve into them.  The curve matches the one at the top of the monitor panel.  Took a couple of hours to sand them all smooth and get the edges to not show too much when mounted in the speaker panel.  Now I just have to get my hands on some Novus to polish the edges.  Still have not made up my mind if I will be beveling the edges or not.





Took out and sharpened the chisels again.  MDF is rough on cutting edges and dulled the chisels rather quickly.  This time was to make another deeper recess for the blue acrylic pieces to sit into.  This puts them in front of the perforated metal grill, but leaves the grill flush with original recess.



Time for the frame to hold the grill cloth.  Cut some 3/8" square hardwood dowels to fit, glued and put a small nail through each corner to hold everything together.  I may have made a slight error with the frames by making them almost tight in the panel.  I am not sure if I left enough room for the grill cloth to wrap over the edges.



Ended the day by cutting out the perforated metal grills with pair of sheet metal snips.  I had to hammer the edges flat again, but this was a quick and simple step. 

Below you can see the concept of what I am going for.  The blue acrylic arcs in front, next the perforated metal grill, then the speaker cloth.  Behind this will sit the speakers (duh) and a blue cold cathode light on each side hooked up to a sound activated module.

Both the acrylic and the perforated metal have their protective sheets still on in the picture below.  In the center of the panel is a sample of the blue acrylic that I am using.

[Ralman]

Today began the second attempt at the monitor panel and bezel.

Using the same technique as before I cut out a new panel and put the arc on top with the circle cutting jig.  Cut the rough opening for the monitor, and glued down the black acrylic overlay.  I have the opening cut out and beveled, but I think a 1/16" bevel might not be quite enough.  Granted the bevel will become slightly larger when polishing.

I made a slight adjustment to the design, and will be adding an additional piece of black acrylic to the front reveal of the panel, where the 45 degree angle is cut, so this time I left a bit more overhang on the bezel to allow for fitting and sanding later.

Since the plans also call for the chrome t-molding to cover the top arc, a bevel was added on the backside of the arc so the molding can sit flush with the acrylic.  The slot still needs to be cut into the piece.

Learning from a few mistakes from the last panel attempt, I went with putting together a jig to hold the panel piece in place.  Last time there was just not enough edge for the router to ride on, and even with a good amount of clamps the piece wanted to slide around.  As you can see from the picture the panel gets held very firmly now.  The part at the bottom is actually the cut off from putting the 34 degree cut on the panel.  It makes a great piece to help hold the angled side down and keep the panel squeezed into the jig.

I still need to recess the back of the panel to fit the monitor.  I have all the layout lines marked.  I went back over all the measurements for this and found a few errors that I had made in the previous calculations.  This part should be fun, and very messy, since I am mounting the monitor into a 3/4" thick piece instead of the 1/2" that others have used.

[Ralman]

Finally able to get back to work on the jukebox today.

First piece of business was trimming down the motherboard tray to allow for a little more wiggle room.  The width of the tray was reduced, and the mounting tabs where the back panel would attach to the case was removed.  Nothing like pissing off the neighbors with the whine of a Dremel, and sparks flying across the patio.



I had cut panels for the motherboard mount earlier in the week from some pressboard leftover from when I modified my entertainment center to fit a new TV.  The tray is mounted on the front, well actually facing towards the back once installed.  It is off-center to allow for the cables and any additionally attached devices like a USB wireless adapter or memory stick.



On the other side a pair of cold cathode lights will be mounted, and you can see the tray for the hard drive.  This was pulled out a 1U server case.  I did have to modify it slightly to remove a unneeded support bracket. It will just screw onto the back of the panel once the drive is attached.



Also put some support blocks in place on each of the side panels to make it easier attach the rest of the jukebox shell later on.  The back side will not have the support due to the door, plus I need to be able to slide in the motherboard tray.

[Ralman]

Did a dry fit of most of the exterior shell today also.  Obligatory beer bottle for size reference.

[Ralman]

I have spent the past two days trying to get the recess for the LCD touchscreen cut into the monitor bezel.  After more hours that I care to count, I finally have the monitor sitting just where I want it.  It needs a little cleanup, but it is almost done.

Between using a router and chisels to get the fit just right, the back of the panel looks like utter crap.  In the end, I suppose it really doesn't matter, as long as the front of the panel is intact.

Now the tough part is, how to attach the monitor to the panel?  Anyone have some ideas? I suppose I could get some really short screws.  There is only about 1/2" to work with where the top and bottom brackets are.

I will be putting a brace attached to the VESA mounting holes on the back of the monitor so that there is something other than the bezel holding it in place.  Don't forget the monitor is being mounted at a 45 degree angle.

[leapinlew]

It's got mounting holes on the back, could you not mount it to something from behind instead of securing it to the face? Maybe you can do both?

[shardian]

I have seen many people use metal straps to hold lcd's in place. Get some aluminum 1" wide or so thin material. Bend it roughly to the shape of the monitor. Screw it to the face on the sides, and then screw the strap into the VESA hols on the lcd.

[Ralman]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. 

I will be putting a brace on the back of the monitor to support it.  I don't trust the monitor bezel will be enough to hold on its own.

The problem I am running into is that the monitor and the support brace,  do not allow me enough room to attach the top end of the bezel.  I can put a couple of screws into the bottom section, but with the top of the bezel extending past the back of the unit, I don't want someone to be able to pull it off.   I was hoping to be able to attach the monitor to both the bezel and the support brace giving the bezel a little more integrity.

As is, I have to route out a recess into the back panel to allow the monitor to fit.  Stupid mistake on my part, I did not include the monitor dimensions into the design files.  The monitor will sit about 1/2" into the back panel.

It will all work out though since I was planning on putting a vent at the top, with some perforated metal to keep fingers out.  The back of the monitor will just sit into the vent opening.

Yes, I know there are only 3 bolts in the VESA holes, I can't find the last bolt.  The damn underpants gnomes must have taken it.  I will pick up another on my next run to HD.  The brace has also been notched so it be possible to remove the monitor and bezel, if ever needed, without having to dismantle the top half of the cabinet.

[Ralman]

Duh  sometimes I really need a .

On my commute home, I was thinking about the problem and came up with a simple solution. 

- Mark and remove the back support pieces.
- Mount the monitor.
- Attach  the bezel.
- Re-attach the back supports.
- Attach the back vent panel.

I was originally thinking that monitor and bezel should be the last pieces to go on, but a slight change in order alleviates the problem since I will be able to put a couple of screws in at the top of the bezel.

Of course I still have a decent amount of work left on the cabinet shell before I even get to the assembly phase.

[Ralman]

Sorry for lack of any updates, but work has been going slow.  Crappy weather on the weekends, and lack of time have been slowing me down.

Work has been ongoing on some of the detail items.

Black acrylic plates have been made for the switches and plug outlets.  Here are the three plates cut, drilled, beveled, and polished.
- Top: Amp power, and lighting switches, all rocker switches.  The switch for the amp is of a different style due to power requirements.
- Middle: PC momentary push button power, and 2 USB ports.
- Bottom: Power outlet.  This will go at the bottom of the case.



Here is the top panel going in the back, behind the monitor.  This shows the vent grill, that serves a double purpose.  One to let heat out, and also to allow the monitor to protrude  into the back panel.  Yeah, I messed up a few measurements.



This is looking at the back of the jukebox.  You can see the top and bottom panels, and rough placement of the internals.  The speakers, amp, and PSU for the amp in the bottom half.  The top half holds the PC and its PSU mounted to a removable mount.  The motherboard is mounted to a tray taken out of a full size case, and cut down to size.  The PSU is held in place with L-brackets.



Finally a front view showing rough placement of the speakers and the back of the PC mount.



I still have to cut vents into the back door for the PSUs, and cut the remaining panel for the front.  Not to mention, all the wiring.

[Gatsu]

thats looking really good man. real good.

[drventure]

Hi Ralman

That looks excellent

Where'd you get your ELO touchscreen? Any ideas of a good supplier?

[jimto]

Very well done.

My wife wasn't aware we could build a jukebox until I made the mistake of showing her your progress. Guess what she wants now? 

Again, very well done.

[Ralman]

Where'd you get your ELO touchscreen? Any ideas of a good supplier?

I purchased the screen off eBay a little over a year ago.  Like almost all the others, it is a  used monitor pulled from a photo kiosk of some kind.  A few blemishes, but good enough for me.

[Yvan256]

Where'd you get your ELO touchscreen? Any ideas of a good supplier?

I purchased the screen off eBay a little over a year ago.  Like almost all the others, it is a  used monitor pulled from a photo kiosk of some kind.  A few blemishes, but good enough for me.

Just for others also reading this thread, I saw a seller that had some ELO touchscreens for sale on eBay right now.

A quick question: where did you get the metal mesh sheets? Is there an "official" name for when you ask for this material at a store?

[Ralman]

A quick question: where did you get the metal mesh sheets? Is there an "official" name for when you ask for this material at a store?

I am using something called "Modder's Mesh", purchased from FrozenCPU, the same place I picked up some of the switches and the cold-cathode lighting.
A.C. Ryan MeshxPanel™ Modder's Mesh - Silver

It is also more commonly known as a "perforated metal sheet".  Others on the forum have purchased similar material at places such as McMaster-Carr.  If purchasing larger amounts, this place might have the better price point.

I checked out Lowes, and Home Depot, but the ones near me don't seem to carry this style.

[Ralman]

Just some quick details on how the speakers, amp, and AT PSU will mount.

The speakers are set of surface mount car audio speakers I had kicking around.  Simple mounting system, just one bolt. The mounts should be big enough to cut down on vibration, hence the overkill in size.  They are bolted through with just the one bolt, and I put foam weatherstripping tape on the bottoms of the speakers to help with vibration also.





Here is how everything fits in the bottom portion of the jukebox.  The amp and PSU are mounted with L-brackets.  The clamps are holding onto the L-brackets in the picture. The speaker mounts will screw into the top and bottom shelves.



I do need to remove some material from the speaker mounts to move the PSU into the case about 1/4 of an inch more so that the door sit flush.

[Ralman]

Time for another monthly update.

The weather was finally 'good' enough for me to work on the shell of the jukebox some more.  'Good' weather being no rain, low humidity, and temperature in no higher than 80 F outside. Low 70's or even in the 60's is where I like it. 

Not too much done since there was a good amount of fine tuning, tweaking, and test fitting going on.

Reworked the support brackets for the speakers so I could get the PSU for the amp to sit into the cabinet far enough.  Still have to work on how to wire the PC PSU, the right angle cable I have is too tall and actually sticks out past the back of the door.

I did get the back door cut down, cut the PSU vent holes, made the recesses for the grill material, and beveled the holes by hand to match the other back panel.



Here is a front and back shot.  In the back shot, you can see where all the vents, plugs, and switches will be going.

[Ralman]

Well, things have been busy.

Been quite a while since the previous update, but I have been slowly making progress.  I took a few weekends to paint the jukebox as follows.  Everything was applied with a foam roller except for the last coat which was applied with a standard nap roller, then rolled off using a foam roller.  The final coat was needed to fill in little specks in the paint that just were not filling in using the foam roller alone.

Coat 1- White Zinser B-I-N Pimer - light sanding
Coat 2-3 Gray Behr Primer - premixed stuff - light sanding after 3rd coat
Coat 4-5-6 - Rust-Oleum Semi-gloss Black - light sanding after 4th and 5th coats

The finish turned out great, and really works well with the chrome t-molding.  You can't see them, but the feet have also been added.



As you can see, the bottom grills and accent pieces have been installed.  Here is what it looks like from the inside.
Yes, the speaker grills are held in place with mirror clips.  I actually planned this from early on, and it worked out near perfectly.



If you look close, you can see the lights are held in place with wood brackets instead of the hook-and-loop stuff they came with.  I have a feeling it would not stick to the MDF for too long anyway.  I thought the lights would turn out a little brighter.  When I originally tested them I thought they were extremely bright for their size. Well, see for yourself with a light test.  Now keep in mind there is a layer of speaker cloth, then metal mesh that make up the grills.



Since the weather around here was crappy, yet again, for another weekend I was able to get a decent amount installed in the shell.  This thing is getting damn heavy, and there is still so much left to be installed.

Here is where I am at now.

Speakers, lower lights, amp, and the PSU for the amp have all been added.  Wiring still need to be done for the PSU and related switches.  



The monitor and bezel have also been mounted.  Still looking for that missing bolt, but the support seems more than adequate for now.



Finally a full frontal  

[Hewskie]

Lookin' good Ralman! Can't wait to see the finished product, I'm sure it'll turn out much nicer than mine. I tend to get impatient and cut corners, must be my youth. I'm glad to see you taking your time to make it exactly how you want it.

Keep up the good work

Hewskie

[Ralman]

Thanks Hewskie.

The real pain part is all the minor details going into it.  Working with the plexi/acrylic is the largest time sink.  The cutting sanding, polishing. Argh.

As you can see above I did put a circular cutout on the from piece.  Just the work making the templates to cut out two plexi rounds took a few hours.  One circle to fit into the recess in the panel, another to be mounted on the face.

The plan is to backlight a blue plexi round with a black plexi cover mounted in front with some sort of design in it.  Just coming up with a reasonable design will probably take a few weeks.  Then the pain of cutting it out, without cracking the plexi will be the tough part.

[Ralman]

I was able to sneak away to the basement for a good amount this weekend.  Albeit working with a cold does nothing but slow the process down a fair amount.

The top panel in the back has been mounted with grill, switch plates, switches for the lights and amp, push button for PC power, and USB ports.  I had to screw this in from the outside since there is not enough room for me to attach from the inside.  I tried, but it just was not going to work.



The start of the wiring for the main power is done.  I used a shallow remodel box and screwed it to the bottom of the jukebox for stability.  The main supply line uses standard 14-2 Romex.  Probably overkill, but I thought that would be safer than splicing using a PC power cord.  You can also see the black wire to the right of the blue box that will lead to the switch for the amp PSU.

The wiring is all tested and confirmed working.  I lost a few hours trying to figure out why the amp would not power up even though I know it works.  All line voltages tested normal, and the fuses looked fine.  After a while I checked the continuity across the main fuse, even though it looked fine.  Sure enough the main fuse was not passing, so a quick run off to Radio Shack for some fuses.  Swapped the fuse and now it powers up just fine.  Even ran a few hour test of running it off my MP3 player to make sure.



Since there are USB ports in the back, I had to extend their cord to get them at the top for easy access.  This was done using a length of cat-5e.  Since there are only two ports (4 wires each), and 8 wires in a lan cable, it seemed like the easiest solution.  To make it quick disconnect in case I have to do some internal reworking I spliced a lan jack onto the USB leads coming off the motherboard.  Plus this saved time in having to solder another set of wires.



Here is a shot of the back door with the grills installed.  They are just held in place with glazier points.





Next up is to cut some type of stencil design into a round of black plexi.  This will be glued to a round of blue plexi to be mounted in the front cutout.  This will then be backlit using white cold-cathodes.  Still working on a design.

The plan also calls for using Album Player as the juke frontend.  I tested a few with the wife, and this seemed to be the best option.  Not sure if a frontend will be added such a XLobby, SimpleTouch, MeediOS, etc.  It might just boot straight into the Album Player.

The OS will be Windows 7.  I am hoping the OS will recognize the ELO touchscreen and allow me to turn on some of the Tablet PC options such as the onscreen keyboard at login to remove the need for a separate keyboard kicking around the living room.  Anyone tested these features yet?  I just have not had the time yet.

[Ralman]

Well, here we are.  99% complete, and fully functional.

The only part left is to cut a design into the black plexi round and mount it onto the blue round. Now to figure out a design. 

[Ralman]

One thing I forgot to mention is that the touchscreen works great in Windows 7, except for one point.  The ELO drivers do not load until after you log in.

If you want to use a multi-user configuration, you can't pick the user, or enter a password at the login screen using the touchscreen.  Well, that is unless someone else knows a way around this.  Let me know if it is possible.

What I did was set a default password-less user that gets auto logged in.

The one issue that I have found is that it gets hot inside.  I might have to modify the door and add a fan to blow across the motherboard, gpu, and HD.  Granted the top PSU helps vent the heat, I think a little extra intake is needed.

[Hewskie]

wow, that looks great! cool lighting effect.

Nice work Ralman

Hewskie

[DaOld Man]

I agree with Hewskie, great work!
This juke tuned out very well.