Arcade Collecting > Pinball

Solenoid Driver Board Problems

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smartbomb2084:
I'm not real familiar with this Ultimate MPU garbage, yes garbage, but don't you select the game it is to be used in with DIP switches?  Do you have the right ones set?

gajaman:
Smartbomb2084 -  I thought the dip switches could be wrong so I used the memory clear feature and then reset them to the correct settings. Made no difference.

pinballjim - I didn't think it was right, now resoldered. I clipped the capacitor on the switch on the drop target;



Didn't make any difference I'm afraid.

I'll go through the manual and diagrams tonight to see if I can work out if the non-firing coils are grouped together as you suggest. If it's not obvious I may need to come back for more guidance.

Thanks for the help.

smartbomb2084:
Sorry my friend but that last picture you posted shows that you have clipped a DIODE and you need to reconnect it immediately because the switch matrix requires it and you will just have even more headaches.  Not all the Bally switches have capacitors on them.  It usually is the pop bumpers and kickers that have them.  The reason they are there is that Bally was worried that the MPU would be too slow to react to the switch closing or maybe even miss it all toghether. The capacitor lengthens the time the MPU has to 'see' the switch. Remember the capacitors are disc shaped like the one you cut previously on the Soplenoid/Driver board.  Did you test the swiches by hand in the switch test mode like you did the coils?  Did you check all of the transistors on the Solenoid/Driver board that blows the playfield fuse like you checked the transistors on the original board?  Did you check the switch wiring?  Have you disconnected the TILT?

gajaman:
Hi smartbomb2084

I did think it was a diode but thought maybe capacitors came in that shape as well doh! I'll re-solder it.

It appears that the drop target switch does not have a capacitor then.

I have tested the switch by placing it down in test mode. It comes up as stuck until I manually move the target up by hand at which point it passes the test.

I haven't checked the transistors on the second board and will do this.

The switch wiring I think is fine as the target resets if I short the transistor on the SDB.

The tilt is not disconnected, not sure why this would make a difference as it works fine on the board that doesn't blow the playfield fuse?


Thanks for the help.

gajaman:
So, I've checked the transistors on the second board and have come up with two odd readings.

The first is on an outside leg of a transistor that is not used by the game, all the transistors outer legs read in the 400 - 600 range on the outside legs except this one.

The second is on a centre leg of a transistor that is used by the game, all the transistors middle legs read as 1 on my DMM except this one that reads 2.

Will the transistor not used by the game be causing the problem? Could I swap a good one that is not used by the game for a bad one used by the game or do I need to replace any bad one used or not?

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