Arcade Collecting > Pinball
Solenoid Driver Board Problems
smartbomb2084:
I would like to see you put a new transistor in BOTH places if possible. I hope you have some de-soldering skills so you don't damage the board because removing them is the hard part. If you have a good solder sucker and have the skills then go ahead and rob one board temporarily to fix the other. The call is entirely up to you. As far as the TILT goes it has been known to cause switch problems in the past. Start a game and put one hand on the metal siderail that holds the glass and put your other hand on one half of the tilt at the same time. Repeat the process with the other half of the tilt. Anything weird happen like a popbumper or other solenoid firing on its own?
One more thing, shorting the transistor does not prove that the SWITCH wiring is good it only proves the transistor is connected to the coil. By doing this you are bypassing all of the switch wiring and all of the logic of the MPU.
gajaman:
I've ordered some new transistors and will swap them out on the second SDB board. My soldering skills are ok but if I do screw up I will still have the other board I guess!
I've order TIP102 transistors as I couldn't find ones coded TIP102c in the UK. Will these be ok?
I've ordered these ones;
http://www.pinballheaven.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=101
I'll try the tilt test later - thanks.
Cheers for putting me right on the switch. How do I test the switch wiring with my DMM?
Thanks for the continued help!
smartbomb2084:
The TIP 102 will be fine to use . Usually there are SE 9302 transistors in the board. It is better to change them to TIP 102's anyway when they need replaced as it is a heartier transistor. Does it look like they have already been changed previously by someone else? You can often tell if that is the case because the solder will be a lot shinier than the factory solder and there is usually traces of flux that isn't on a factory connection.
The best way to test switches is in the games' switch test mode. Other than that you can use your DMM to test for continuity between like colored wires in the switch matrix with the power off of course. Look at the switch matrix in the manual and find your problem switches. Each row and column is one wire with each half of a switch connected to it in a daisy chain fashion. If a wire breaks somewhere often more than one switch is affected unless it happens to be the last one in the row or column.
gajaman:
The transisitors all look original. I swapped the two out with the new ones and made a really tidy job even if I do say so myself! I bought a desoldering pump which is excellent.
This has however made no difference with the playfield fuse still blowing the minute I plug in the machine with the repaired SDB connected.
I tested the switch using the test mode and it shows as locked on when the drop traget is down but not when I manually reset it. All other switches show as having no fault during the test.
Any other ideas?
smartbomb2084:
On the board that is blowing the playfield fuse, try removing the flipper relay as it may be shorted. There really isn't a whole lot of +43 volts on the SDB when the transistors aren't switching the coils to ground. The flipper relay has +43 volts going to it though. Since the playfield fuse only blows with one particular board installed the +43V must be grounded by the board somehow. You can also see if J3-pin 9 is grounded as this is the flipper relay +43V supply.
On the other board that doesn't blow the fuse, you say that the wrong coil fires even in test? If this is true then the BCD data may be getting corrupted by an intermittent J4 connector. Unsolder and resolder all the pins on connector J4 and while you are at it do that to all the connectors on both SDB boards and let's go from there.
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