Upright Donkey Kong resetting itself. Help...

[mushmouth]

I have an original upright Donkey Kong machine that I just moved into my office at work. After moving it in, I noticed that every now and then I'd look over at it and the high scores were gone (reset). We tried a different circuit line to see if it was power surges or twitches in the AC. It still did the same thing.

Then I happened to be watching as someone walked up to play a game, as soon as they touched the metal coin door plate with the free-play button on it (a tiny button with a metal shaft), not an arcade button, it reset itself.

Static Electricity? I do often experience static shocks after I walk into my office and touch the metal on my desk -- ZAP. Does this sound plausible as a cause? If so, anything I can do about it? Is there something else I should be looking for here? Unless anyone has another suggestion, I'm going to swap out that button with a plastic housed button and see if it goes away. Not sure what else to try.

Thanks,
Mushmouth

[CrazyKongFan]

Sounds plausible to me. I remember staying at a campground "back in the day" that had a Pac-man, and more than once I reset it accidentally by touching the coin door and getting a static shock.

[fjl]

You need to ground all metal parts to prevent static problems. Get one of those plug things that checks to see if the outlet was wired correctly, ground and all. And check to see that the cab also has a ground prong.

[mushmouth]

You need to ground all metal parts to prevent static problems. Get one of those plug things that checks to see if the outlet was wired correctly, ground and all. And check to see that the cab also has a ground prong.

Thanks for the reply. Can you elaborate a bit? My donkey kong is my first dedicated machine and I know little about them. Ground what metal parts, and ground them to where? Are you talking about adding additional grounding or checking and fixing all existing grounding. I don't know if there are any pics around that you can reference, but if you could show me that'd be even better.

I'll get a ground plug tester (I need one for my new house anyway) and I'll test the office. The electrical, though, is quite current there, so that's not LIKELY to be the issue. I will check though.

I was also thinking some kind of anti-static mat might be a good idea in front of it as well, but if there are changes/repairs I can/need to make internally to eliminate the problem, I'm down with that.

Thanks again,
Mushmouth

[protokatie]

Ground what metal parts, and ground them to where?

Solder a wire to the inside of the coin door to anything that you know to be grounded in the machine. (one way to make sure of this (after testing your outlet) is to run the wire to the screw that holds the front plate of the outlet in place.) I dont own any dedicated cabs, but I have never had a machine of any kind reset on me due to grounding issues, so you may want to look for shorts as well.

Also, might I suggest scotchguard for the carpet? From what I understand it can reduce the effects of static buildup when walking on it... Or that mat you suggested (although someone could still build up a change and then stand on the mat and then discharge) (Wow that sounds rather dirty in a sexual way :<)

[Ken Layton]

Make sure the machine's power cord has not had it's ground prong lopped off.

[Lutus]

If you look in the back of the machine you will see green wires going various places.  The power block, the transformer, the switch in the back of the machine, the monitor, the speaker, the control panel and even the control panel latches.

You need a wire that is connected to the metal part of that button you speak of (soldered or with a terminal lug) and tie it into the green ground wires anywhere along the path. 

That will keep you from getting shocked ONLY if you have the ground prong on your electrical plug that goes into the wall.

If you have a multi-meter, put one end of the meter on the third (ground) prong of the electrical plug and the other side to the monitor chassis (or any where else that has the green wire going to it).  If you have continuity you are good to go, if you do not, or the ground prong is missing, replace that sucker ASAP.

NOTE:  I mentioned the cables being green in color but that is only the original wiring that is green.  It could be any color.  Most likely green though.

[mushmouth]

If you look in the back of the machine you will see green wires going various places.  The power block, the transformer, the switch in the back of the machine, the monitor, the speaker, the control panel and even the control panel latches.

You need a wire that is connected to the metal part of that button you speak of (soldered or with a terminal lug) and tie it into the green ground wires anywhere along the path. 

That will keep you from getting shocked ONLY if you have the ground prong on your electrical plug that goes into the wall.

If you have a multi-meter, put one end of the meter on the third (ground) prong of the electrical plug and the other side to the monitor chassis (or any where else that has the green wire going to it).  If you have continuity you are good to go, if you do not, or the ground prong is missing, replace that sucker ASAP.

NOTE:  I mentioned the cables being green in color but that is only the original wiring that is green.  It could be any color.  Most likely green though.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. And yes, btw, the ground prong is intact on the power cord.

I was hoping I'd get to dig around in there. Wouldn't it be essentially the same thing to ground that button by running a wire from it and soldering it to the monitor chassis?

As for the wire color, It's not the original wiring harness and I think all of the wires are red. But I believe they're spliced in so there should be some green on some of those ends... It was that way when I received the machine, I swear it wasn't me. But I should be able to track one down based on your description of where the grounds run, regardless. I'll let y'all know what I find.

Mush

[Lutus]

Yes, you can do just that by connecting the monitor chassis to the button housing.

Just ohm out from the button housing to the ground plug on your electrical plug that goes into the wall.  If you have continuity you are good to go I would think!