Dead sanyo 20 ezv

[john28]

 (yep thats right iam a tool! ) here is my problem i have a great orginal dk with some minor issuse, bought it for 600 and everything is orginal even the dust, iam doing a restoration on this game as we speak, with that i have sent the boards out to me checked and if there is any issues have them corrected.

in the mean time i have pulled the monitor out to clean and get the cab dirt and dust free not to mention do a little touch up work to the paint. after getting the monitor the way i want it i put it aside while weighting for the boards to return, now buy dumb luck my 11 year old got the idea to plug in the monitor to a 120 volts, not knowing any better.

this is the part were iam a tool should never left the monitor in my office on the floor near an outlet this is were a courious 11 year old can do some damage. i hooked it back up in the cab to see whats going on the tube or yoke dose glow a very dim orange and i know the flyback workes because i have then took the monitor back out knowing i have to fix it

so, i did  discharge the monitor be for pulling it out and got a healthly blue arc and nice crack/pop to my screwdriver. any help with this would be greatly app. thanks john
ps.  also did check the fuses 4a and 300ma both are not blown and working.

[Lutus]

I have heard that some people have hooked into the wall before and if wasn't plugged in too long it still worked.

You didn't hook up any gameboard I am assuming since it is sent out for repair.

Hook the monitor up to the 100V outlet inside the cab.  Turn on the machine and turn up the screen voltage (one of the two pots on the flyback transformer)

The screen should get brighter, almost white.  If it does that then you should not panic yet, wait for the gameboard to come back and hook it up.

[qrz]

if the filaments are lit upon pwr up, it is not DOA ...remember, monitors do not illuminate like a tv with no signal
( snow). the screen generally stays dark with drive signal absent.
and if monitor's required pwr source is 110vac , and that is to what it was connected , there should be no damage .

the AC is rectified and filtered, which then becomes 155-170VDC and regulated to 110-135VDC for the horiz output .
a scan derived power supply then uses the horiz pulse to drive secondary flyback windings for the monitor's lower
voltage needs.
the main regulator will tolerate some fluctuations of input voltage without adversly affecting the regulated output.

qrz

[john28]

no the monitor was not hooked up long from what i know, and yes i did put it back in the cab and fire it up with the 100volts that it calls for. fuses are ok there is a very dim glow in the filamants, i did try and adjust the screen voltage but it did nothing, did not get brighter just stayed dark.

[Lutus]

If there is a glow in the filament, I wouldn't worry too bad.  Wait for the PCB and then le us know how it goes.

[john28]

thats cool, thanks for the advice, ill keep u posted when the pcb is in the cab and hooked up.

[Jeff AMN]

While you have the monitor out, you might as well cap the thing. I'd shoot an order off to Bob Roberts and get the Sanyo 20EZ cap kit (and sound board cap kit). It's something that will need to be done sooner or later anyway, and with something this old, it's probably time. It can help to ensure that you're getting correct voltages as well.

[Lutus]

Don't forget to specify that you want the "extra cap kit" as well.  There is a standard cap kit and then a couple extra just for the Sanyo20EZ

I am having to replace my filter capacitor as well.  Might as well think about it.

good call Jeff AMN

[john28]

i was thinking about this and looking on the bob r site was wondering if i should get the delux kit he sells? this is a new venture for me, first restore and all. i want to do it right just not screw something up. funny thing is that with having this monitor out and realy looking at it closely i can see a slite burn in on the screen of the game platoon either the hole monitor has been changed or the tube at some point.

[Kevin Mullins]

looking on the bob r site was wondering if i should get the delux kit he sells?

That particular kit is for a G07 monitor ....... I doubt any of the the kits for the 20EZ include a flyback. 
So check closely at what you're ordering and what you will get. You van also shoot him an e-mail and ask specifically for what you need.
I personally haven't browsed bob's site in awhile.

Platoon is a Nintendo Vs. game ...... so that cab probably had a Vs. system installed at some point in time. Typical conversion for those cabs.

[john28]

top of the parts page he has a list of different kits u can buy for the g07 this is one of the kits for $38.00 calls it the delux rebuild kit. i will email and call him to make sure its correct.

[Kevin Mullins]

Maybe I'm just not reading your post correctly, but you keep refering to a G07 kit when your original post is about a Sanyo 20EZ monitor right?

20EZ 13"/19" - Deluxe Kit [Plus & Audio Bd Kit]   $12.00
Most complete kit I saw on his cap kit parts page.
(pretty sure there is no flyback in that kit) 

[Lutus]

Agree Kevin.

john28, can we see a picture of your monitor chassis?  That way you don't order something that won't work for you.

About the burn in of Platoon.  It is possible that the either the entire monitor or the tube were changed.  We would need a picture of the chassis to help you any further.



For everyone, concerning Bob Roberts.  I now just email him a list of stuff I need like this:

"I need a Go7 rebuild kit, a Sanyo20EZ big filter capacitor, K7000 vertical sync trim pot"

and he correlates those to his parts numbers.  It is somewhat difficult to sift through his GINORMOUS parts list.   

[john28]

ok here are the pic u guys asked for and just let me say thanks again for taking the time to help me out with this project, means a lot.
also could some one help me with the spect tag, it says tkg3-up-us, up means upright and us means made here in the us, but what dose the tkg 3 mean? an early verison, dose it mean it has 3 cpu boards or 2 boards, would it be a blue cab or red, this is the stuff i;am lost with.  john

[Mauzy]

TKG3-UP is a code for Donkey Kong upright model TKG3-UP.

its on the cover of the manual found here:

http://www.classicgaming.cc/classics/donkeykong/tech/dk_tkg3up.pdf

[john28]

thats what i was talking about i know it is an upright cab from the up in the modle# and us stands for made in the us, but the 3 is what throws me off dose that stand for an early verison, with 3 boards or just a normal 2 board cab, and just wondering if the blue paint is orginal, or should this be red paint reason for asking is because the serial# is kind of low, 05736..?

[Mauzy]

Page 14 of that manual with the tkg3 on it shows 4 boards. not sure for color

[Kevin Mullins]

You have a genuine Sanyo 20EZ.
You can actually find "20EZV" stamped into one of the metal chassis rails.
And there is a TKG sticker on the chassis in one of your pics, so it's original to the cab.

Nintendo didn't use "paint" on their cabs..... it's an actual colored vaneer of sorts.
So what ever color your cab is now would be it's original color. And since there is a DK tag on it....... then it's the right color for that version.

Only the super early ones were found in red cabs. (and very few of them)
Blue is the most widely common cabinet to find DK in.

The four board sets were found the the early runs. (and there were two versions of those)
Most common would be the two board set. (common in the blue cabs)
There were no three board sets. The number three represents a revision. (1, 2, 3, 4)

[Lutus]

You have a genuine Sanyo 20EZ.... therefore, forget about the G07 stuff.

You need the "Sanyo 20EZ cap kit including the extra caps, and you will need the audio amp rebuild kit" 

Both from Bob Roberts.

No G07 stuff.

[john28]

ok that cool thanks for looking and getting back to me on this ill go to his site and order the stuff i need than. what do u guys think about ordering  the big filter caps on this chassis, would that be in the kit, because what i see  looks to be only the small to medium size caps that come in the kit. or it something i would buy, by it self?